Fixing cracks in logs of wooden houses. Cracks in the logs. Causes and methods of prevention

The question of how and what to repair cracks in a bar is actual for all owners of wooden structures. Construction of natural wood is not only a tribute to fashion. The buildings of the beam differ light weight, ecological purity and excellent insulating qualities. Their erection is carried out in a short time. For wooden log cabins, there is no need to erect a heavy and powerful foundation. An important factor is their durability. But all this is possible only under the condition of proper operation and timely maintenance of buildings.

Cracks in the bar - a sign of violation of the conditions of operation of the building or even its complete destruction.

One of the factors that can lead to the loss of the building's functionality is the cracks in the bar, which can be called the "scourge" of all wooden structures.

Damage that brings cracks in the wood

Time spares nothing. Even the best quality wood eventually begins to become covered with a grid of small cracks. This is a process that occurs due to the natural shrinkage of the material. Outwardly it looks quite exotic and natural. This web acts as an element of wall decoration and serves as a kind of decoration of the building.

Owners of real estate do not attach such "external decoration" of proper value, considering that it has no influence on the strength and characteristics of the building.

Completely in vain.

Slots in the bar can cause a violation of the performance characteristics of the structure or its complete destruction.

Cracks appear due to a different rate of moisture removal from different layers of the log. Outside, it evaporates much faster than from the middle. The resulting stress causes a rupture of the material.

Below are the destructive factors, due to which there are cracks in the wood:

Longitudinal cracks that go along the entire length of the product reduce its strength and can cause complete destruction of the beam.
In the openings of the detail rainwater and snow fall. This causes dampness and decay of the material. After a short period of time, the entire wall can be hit.
Water, trapped in the cavity of the wall, freezes in winter, expands and destroys the structure of the tree. In addition, this causes deformation of the entire structure. Such a phenomenon can lead to the destruction of all communications (heating systems, water supply) and the rupture of electrical wires.
Holes in the tree can serve as a kind of home for many insects. Ants, bark beetles, bees or wasps can settle in cavities. This neighborhood is very few people like. Bark beetles can completely destroy the frame in a few years.

Thus, sealing cracks in the walls of buildings from the timber becomes a vital issue, the solution of which must be given due attention, time and money.

Preventive measures

To think about the fact that cracks are a serious enemy of the structure, it is necessary even before construction begins. And a few years before it began. If you build from dry material, then the probability of destruction of the surface is significantly reduced. When the moisture in all layers of the product is the same, then the stress in them will not arise. Consequently, the probability of cracking is significantly reduced.

To avoid spider webs, the following measures are taken:

Continuous drying. This is necessary in order to remove moisture from the tree as much as possible. Logs should lie for 2-3 years in a cool and dark place. Their position must be rigidly fixed. This will not allow them to curl. Logs can be processed when the moisture content of the material drops to 18-20%. In this case, the maximum width of the cracks does not exceed 5 mm. Fighting these defects is much easier than with those that are formed in the undried material.
Fixing the ends of the beam. The ends of logs dry much faster than the rest of their surface. This is due to the structure of the wood. As a result, the ends are covered with crevices and cracks in the first place. Through them, an abundant moisture yield occurs. Such a situation can lead to deformation of the beam and violation of the wall tightness. Seal the ends can be oil paint, carpentry, facade sealant, wax or linseed oil. After this, the evaporation process will slow down and shrinkage will occur evenly.
Compensating cuts. This precautionary measure helps to avoid the appearance of many small cracks, since the stress of the material upon deformation of the beam will compensate for the propyl. It becomes a depth of one third of the diameter of the log and a width of 7-10 mm. To do this, you can use a normal chainsaw or a hand mill. The propyl is made in the upper part of the product: so it will be covered and protected by a lumber lying on top. Before the end of the opening is better not to bring: so the wood will be protected from moisture and insects. The cavity can be laid with a stick or moss. This material will compensate for humidity changes.

But, despite all the preventive measures, cracks on the walls of a wooden frame can not be avoided. This is a natural property of wood. You can only eliminate its consequences.

How and what can you block cracks in a bar

The construction of wooden houses has a thousand-year history. During this long period, mankind has learned to eliminate the effects of wood shrinkage and shrinkage of buildings. New technologies significantly expanded the range of materials used for embedding facades and their use.

So, for the elimination of cracks in wood the following methods are used:

To seal the cracks, you can use a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue.

Application of a cap. The cap is a conventional wood chip made to the size of the hole. Score it with a hammer. It is not recommended to apply excessive force when plugging a wedge - this can split the wood. As it will continue to dry out, you need to apply PVA glue on the wedge. The repair site is filled with putty or mortar made of sawdust and glue.
Fixing self-made putty. Small wood sawdust and PVA glue are used as ingredients. The consistency of the mortar must correspond to the usual wall filler. Cavities are filled with a material using a rubber spatula. After it dries, the next layer is applied. After that, the surface is leveled and polished. To improve the appearance of the place of repair can be tinted.
Use of facade sealant. This is a new unique product of the chemical industry. The sealant has a high adhesion and is environmentally safe. It can be deformed, changing in size to 25% of the volume, without loss technical specifications. In this case, the temperature range at which the sealant can be used is from -50ºC to + 50ºC. In the cavity the material is laid using an adhesive gun. After that, the surface is leveled.
Application of putty on wood. With this material, it is possible to seal both end and longitudinal cracks. In this case, it should be noted that processing with this composition can be a hole no larger than 3 mm. Otherwise the material will drop out quickly. Apply it only on a dry surface. For sale putty in the ready-to-eat form of natural wood color. After application, additional finishing is not required. The material is resistant to water, frost and ultraviolet.
Conduction of caulking. This is an ancient way of repairing wooden log houses, tested and tested for centuries. To seal the cavities, the usual moss is used, which is very much in the forest. The use of moss is good in that this material has a very low degree of thermal conductivity. Clogging with moss is an additional thermal insulation. Caulking is carried out by well soaked and wrung material. It is densely packed in the holes with a wooden spatula. As the drying moss increases in volume and fills the smallest cracks. The protruding excess is neatly cut off. Such a method is environmentally friendly and does not require capital investment.

When it comes to finishing the joints between a beam or a log, only the literature will not be enough, since a dozen books will provide for your consideration as many versions of caulking. Of course, deliberately false information on the pages of the reference books is rare, but this still happens, and it is difficult to identify it among other data.

The most reliable advice on what to fix the cracks between the logs will only be given by an experienced master, or at least a person who has actually tried what he says. And, interestingly, many agree that moss is one of the most effective materials for caulking. Often, on the outskirts of the marshes, you can see a whole carpet of sphagnum, which, while still wet, is easily stuffed into the junctions between the wreaths.

Qualitative can be called only such a caulk, in which a sharp awl enters the gap between the logs no less severely than in the wood.

More common and equally eco-friendly way of sealing the cracks is to fill them with a paste, coated with gypsum or cement mortar, or simply tamper with this affordable consumable without any additives. Instead, you can use hemp or jute fiber. The difference between hemp and stick is insignificant - the first is a derivative of flax, less often cannabis, the latter is obtained only from hemp.

These materials were used by our ancestors, so today they will prove themselves no worse. The only thing that can create inconvenience, if you suddenly need to cut a new window or make another opening for the window, it will be difficult to use the chainsaw - the tow and hemp slaughter the chain and stupid it.

Modern putty for logs

In addition to natural materials for sealing joints between the crowns of the log (some of which do not even need to be bought, it is enough to go into the forest or to the marsh) modern industry can offer a lot of synthetic. It is no longer necessary to speak about the ecological compatibility here, however, reliability is definitely observed, that it is actually required from such putties.

Some "experts" advise using a silicone sealant, but such a method of sealing seams will only exacerbate the situation, since wood has a habit of absorbing moisture, and if it is somewhere worse evaporated, there will almost certainly be rot.

In stores you can find many special sealants based on polyurethane, which are not afraid of ultraviolet and temperature changes. Such a putty for logs is suitable for filling joints both outside and inside the log house. Do not use polyurethane sealants in cylinders, as they mostly do not like sun rays.

It is important to know: to seal the seams, a sufficiently elastic material is necessary, since wooden house "Breathes", it absorbs moisture and releases it, heats up and cools, due to all these factors there is an insignificant but constant shift of logs. Under such conditions, the same mounting foam will simply burst after a few months.

How is caulking done and laying between logs?

Before you seal the seams between the logs, think about what will be under your putty. The fact is that completely clogging the cracks with sealants is irrational and uneconomical, since they can turn out to be quite deep, and in the cross-section of such seams there are usually not less than 40.

Therefore, you should immediately decide, you will use a natural aggregate or synthetic. Natural materials for caulking we mentioned above, as for artificial caulks, many masters agree that it is best to use a cord made of foamed polyethylene, it can be of different diameters, can be selected for the width of the slots.

Having scored with maximum density of the seams, we begin to cover the caulk with the sealant. First, glue on both sides of the slit paint tape, so as not to smudge all the timber with putty. If you used a felt pad between logs when laying logs or logs (some recommend moss as such a layer, it is better not to use glass wool), fill the slits with air-permeable material, such as a tow.

Now with regard to the coating itself: you can make it with your fingers, but it will be ugly, it is better to use a special rubber spatula for seams, which is successfully used when applying tile grout. To finally close the joints, you can pin the strips that perfectly fit into the overall design of the frame.

-\u003e Cracks in the log logs.

Introduction.

One of the most significant phenomena of the last decade is a sharp increase in the number of built wooden buildings - houses, cottages, baths.

People want to have a corner where you can relax from the exhausting hustle and bustle of city life and recharge with positive energy.

Somewhere on the level of instinct and intuition, it was understood that this corner should be built of wood and be out of town.

But due to the fact that the vast majority of developers are urban dwellers, analogies of urban construction are transferred to wooden houses: "The log must be built from absolutely identical logs, which must have the color of freshly cut wood and shine in the sun lacquered."

This stereotype does not allow the appearance on the walls of any aesthetic flaws, and, with the appearance of the slightest cracks, the owners begin to panic followed by a set of expensive (and absolutely useless) measures to eliminate them.

As you know, demand creates supply. Therefore, a lot of firms and firmochkas appeared that offer "effective" ways to seal cracks ...

And whether it is necessary to struggle with external cracks in logs of walls? Is it really as scary as the owners of "effective" technologies claim, and will these technologies solve the problems of cracking?
Why do giant cracks with a width of several centimeters appear in round logs and profiled beams, and in cracks made of solid logs, the cracks are much smaller?

I will try to answer all these questions.

1. Reasons for the formation of cracks.

A wise science called "Wood Science" claims that the wood decreases in size as it dries up - it dries up.

For example, a decrease in the size of pine with complete drying will be:
Along the fibers, 0.1-0.3%,
3 - 5% across the fibers.

The shrinkage (resizing) of the inner and outer layers is significantly different. For example, for pine, the shrinkage of the inner layers can reach 2.91%, and the outer layer - 8.22%.

This is primarily due to the different humidity and density of the outer and inner layers. For example, in pine, the density of wood increases in the direction from the core to the bark. The highest density of wood is achieved in the layers located in the region of 2/3 of the radius. Further, when moving toward the outer layers, the density decreases.

Word of the classics:
Professor L.M. Perelygin: "When drying, the surface layers tend to reduce the size due to shrinkage, while in the inner layers that still retain moisture, shrinkage does not occur. As a result, the surface layers are affected by tensile stresses, while the inner layers are compressed. If the value of these stresses exceeds the tensile strength of the wood when stretched across the fibers, a break in the tissues occurs in the surface layers, i.e. there is a crack ».

Thus, in connection with the fact that when natural drying first, the outer layers dry, then internal, when natural drying of wood, cracking is inevitable.

The only thing that can be achieved is to minimize the size of cracks. How? We read further.

2. Reducing the cracking.

1. Long natural drying.

In order to minimize the size of the cracks, it is necessary to stretch the process of natural drying in time. The drying speed of the upper layers should be such that their moisture content slightly differs from the moisture of the inner layers, that is, the moisture from the inner layers has time to pass to the outer layers.

For this barked logs stacked in a pile must be dried in the shade for at least two yearsi.e. until the humidity of the internal layers of wood is 18 - 20%.

So our ancestors dried logs for their buildings. The width of cracks in such logs is not more than 1 - 2 mm.

Now that you are armed with Knowledge, you can easily explain why cracks appear a few centimeters wide in round logs and profiled beams.

When cylindering and profiling with milling cut the top layer of the tree. The result is a log with open wood fibers. And if it is not sufficiently dried (which is the case in most cases), then because of the open fibers, the drying speed of the upper layer multiplies many times. And as the drying of the inner layers goes much slower, giant cracks form on the surface of such a log.

But if a rounded log or profiled bar is made from dried logs or dried after rounding, the cracks on them will be much less.

I.e,
increased cracking in rounded logs and profiled beams is the result of a deliberate violation of technology to speed up the process and reduce the cost of production.

2. Compensating (deformation) propyl.

To reduce the drying time, in order to minimize the cracking on the surface, a longitudinal cut is made at the bottom or top of the log for the entire length. Depth of cut - about 1/6 of the diameter of the log. This propyl is called compensatory.

According to theory, the removal of internal stresses should be carried out by a crack that will go inside the log.

This technology has been known for more than 20 years. And, based on the experience of application, it is already possible to draw conclusions. And the conclusions are ambiguous:

Some argue that this propyl does not prevent cracking. As the cracks appeared, they appear. Moreover, this internal crack can behave absolutely unpredictably - to come out to the surface or split the log in half.

Others - compensatory propyl is a very good tool in the prevention of cracks.

In order to understand who is right, when building my bathhouse, as an experiment, in the two lower crowns, after cutting down the longitudinal groove, I made such a cut. The depth of cut is about 1/6 of the diameter of the log and it is located on the underside (in the middle of the longitudinal groove).

The truth was, as always, in the middle.

Therefore, in occasion of compensatory cut I shall allow myself to draw following conclusions:

A . In order for the compensatory cut to effectively prevent the external cracking, it must be done in logs, which were dried in a pile for at least a year.

B. In order for our artificial fracture to not split the log, the depth of the compensation cut should not be more than 1/6 - 1/5 of the diameter of the log (and not 1/3 - 1/4, as some sources suggest).

AT . Now the propyl is made in the crest (from above) of the log. At me it is made from below. This was done at a time when the frame was cut.
There are serious concerns about the upper cut. It turns out that the log is weakened in two places (from below - a longitudinal groove, from above - propyl). And during the shrinkage there are two cracks that meet each other. Is it possible that the log splits?

In general, earlier in the construction of log houses, such cuts were not used, because if the log is dried in a pile for at least two years, cracking on it is minimal.

Personally, I'm cautious about compensating cuts - it's not known how the log will behave in 10-15 years.

3. Drying logs with high frequency currents.

If you carefully read about the density distribution inside the wood, then you will agree with me that cracking can be avoided altogether if the log is dried "inside out", that is, first to dry the inner layers, and then - the outer layers.

Such a drying technology exists. It is patented and is increasingly used. Its essence lies in heating the inner layers of a beam of microwave radiation. Due to good patency along the fibers, excessive moisture leaves through the ends of logs and the log very quickly dries, and first the internal layers dry, and then the outer ones.

The cost of the dried up forest is about $ 500 per cubic meter.

However, a small question arises here.

We know that microwave radiation kills all life, and the accelerated release of moisture changes the structure of the cells of the wood. Therefore, as the logs so dried up in operation will behave, it is still unknown. It is also not known how they will affect people living in such a room.

Time will tell.

In half a year after the writing of this article, on the website of Andrey Kuryshev www.izba.su I came across information that when drying with microwave currents in coniferous rocks, the resin burns out (crystallizes). This causes a loss of antiseptic properties of the resin, which is fraught with a decrease in the resistance of the wood to decay, which means a sharp decrease in the service life of the log.
Just the same you are given, well, absolutely everything in the work with the tree, which is adopted by the bourgeoisie and is presented as supertechnology, turns out to be complete d ...! Although this is not particularly surprising. After all, for many centuries Russia has been the trendsetter in wooden architecture. And if you want to build a long-term, environmentally friendly structure, then Russian traditions in the processing of wood are not only correct, but also the only possible ones.

3. Is it so terrible cracks?

The harmfulness of cracks brightly painted by producers and sellers different materials, used to seal these cracks.

Their arguments:

1. In winter, the moisture that enters the crack can freeze and break the log.

2. A crack is the center of decay.

3. Insects - pests appear in the crack.

4. The crack degrades the thermal properties of the log.

To prove the inconsistency of these and similar arguments is very easy. It is enough to go to any nearby village and inspect the cracks with which the local log houses are covered. You will not find there no rot, no mold, no insect pests. Moreover, any old-timer will tell you that every fissure he remembers from childhood ...

But, for completeness of presentation, I will answer each of the arguments.

1. The moisture on the walls is casual and short-lived. This moisture is partially absorbed into the tree, the rest evaporates quickly. In addition, the walls are even outside warm, so freezing to such an extent that the log does not break.

2. For wood to become a hotbed of decay, its moisture content should be more than 19-20%. Due to the fact that the cracking occurs along the fibers, and the fibers themselves remain intact (closed), the absorption of the moisture that has fallen is very slow, the moisture that has got into the fracture evaporates rapidly and the moisture content of the wood does not rise to a critical value.

3. The vast majority of insect pests eat raw wood, products of wood rot, mold, fungi. There is nothing in the cracks, and as if the sellers of sealants did not want it, there are no insects there either. If a spider settles in, then there is no harm from it.

4. In order to significantly degrade the thermal properties of the log, the crack should be through. I have not seen through cracks in the solid log. Theoretically, they can appear only in a profiled beam or cylindrical logs made from a very damp forest. In general, in order to get such a masterpiece, you need to try very hard ...

Rural residents do not notice cracks. Cracks for them are something self-evident, an indispensable attribute of any chopped structure. Also, however, as they do not notice the black color of the walls, because neither the cracks nor the blackness of the walls in any way affect the warmth and comfort in the house.

Thus, based on the foregoing, we can draw the following conclusion: Cracks in logs are not dangerous and do not affect the operational properties of the log walls.

If logs for logs were dried for at least 1 year, then the width of the cracks does not exceed 6-10 mm. If the logs were dried for 2 years or more, the width of the cracks, as a rule, does not exceed 1-2 mm.

If the width of the cracks is more than 1 cm, then this is a clear fault, allowed when drying the wood.

4. Fracture sealing.

If you are an incorrigible esthete and can not go to sleep in a house with cracks or crack more than 1cm, then you can try to fix them.

I will express my opinion on modern methods and, in conclusion, I will talk about the grandfather's method of sealing cracks.

What does the construction market offer us?

1. Sealants.

2. Materials made of foamed polyethylene foam.

3. Solid compounds.

Consider the effectiveness of each material.

1. Sealants for sealing cracks.

These are acrylic sealants, silicone sealants, sealants based on rubber-like compounds (butyl-rubber sealant), etc. There are many different types and types of sealants in RuNet.

More pictures of beautiful new log houses, in which even the inter-wedge joints are sealed.

But for some reason, there is not a single photo where the log and sealant is at least five years old ...

Yes, because it is better not to show them to anyone. The experience of using sealants to seal external defects in logs is still small and all negative information is carefully hidden.

In order to prove the ineffectiveness of sealant sealing external cracks, I'll tell you about my own experiment.

I set up my log house in 2007. In 2010, as an experiment, several cracks were sealed with acrylic sealant, which at that time was considered the most - the most for wood.

As they say, comments are superfluous ...

About such defects manufacturers speak: no trouble, on the old sealant put new, and will be to you shchaste ... (for the nearest two years).

And now let's try to figure out why this is happening.

Any sealant and wood are heterogeneous materials, so it is very difficult for them to provide long-term high-quality adhesion between them.

The tree "breathes", that is, it constantly absorbs and gives back to the atmosphere moisture, and also changes its size depending on the time of year. The sealant does not let moisture or air pass through it. And if it does, it's much worse than a tree.

First, adhesion is very good. But since the sealant in the place of contact with the tree clogs the wood fibers, the moisture in the place of contact is not output outside, and this place begins to rot. In the dust turns a thin layer, adjacent to the sealant and adhesion is broken - the sealant exfoliates.

This happens for 2 -3 seasons.

Obviously, the elasticity index of the sealant is not absolutely important. Whether it is at least 1000%, the gap between the tree and the sealant will still appear.

But what happens next is not difficult to predict. In the alkalis between the tree and the sealant, it will be necessary to get moisture. Moreover, the process of evaporation will inhibit the sealant. Here you have increased humidity in the embedded cracks, here's to you both rot and insects - pests.

Everything turns out exactly the opposite. Want to have foci of disease - clogged cracks with hermetic.

2. Foamed polyethylene foam cord.

Well, here I say this: want to have a greenhouse effect in a single crack - apply to health. But remember that in this guy will not grow tomatoes, but rot, mold and others like them!

It is striking that on Western commercials about the means for sealing cracks (sealant, cord), the technology of their application is shown INSIDE OF THE PREMISES. The casket here is opened simply: these materials are unacceptable for outdoor work. By the decision of the court, the bourgeoisie can be left without pants for deception of consumers, therefore on these rollers they show the real field of application. And what you have thought out yourself, and began to use these materials for exterior walls, then this is your problem ...

3. Various solid compounds.

As I said, the size of cracks is constantly changing. Depending on the season, temperature, humidity ... Therefore, after the first winter, crevices will appear between the tree and the seal. And then everything is according to the above scenario.

Perhaps, on this review of methods of drawing out money from gullible owners of wooden structures, I will finish.

Summarizing, we can say: in connection with the unfavorable external conditions in which the external walls of the log house are operated, all the methods of sealing external cracks considered are short-lived. Moreover, in places of repair, over time, there is probably a disease of wood.

The grandfather's method of sealing cracks.

In the Belarusian villages, I met only one method of sealing large cracks (more than 1cm) - plowing them with moss.

Let's, for example, patch one crack from the outside and one inside the log house.

Before the final treatment, let the wet moss and walls dry a couple of days.

Here's what we have in the end:

The soaked moss on drying increases in volume (by about 20%). Therefore, the cracks are securely clogged and the moss in the crack sits tightly.

So, the cracks are finished. Such sealing is harmless for a log, restores thermal characteristics, equally well suits both for internal and external walls and will serve as much as the frame will serve.

As you can see in the photos, I am opposed to any covering of external log walls (especially in a bath). For me, much more important is the ecological and clean air inside the log cabin, than the envious looks of neighbors.

Sometimes I get a crazy thought that the rounded log and profiled beam was invented by manufacturers of paints, varnishes, primers, sealants ...

But time will sooner or later put everything in its place and, I assure you, that all these "modern", "revolutionary", "inaccurate" technologies for working with wood in the future will go into oblivion.

Experiments and tests of many generations left us a legacy of technology and materials that will serve for a long time and effectively. And any ill-considered change in technology and materials is unlikely to benefit the wooden structure, which means that you ...

Regardless of how the material for building a wooden house was prepared, cracks appear in the logs over the years. Significantly reduces the life of the building, creates a favorable environment for the development of rot and mold. It is not surprising that the owners are interested in such a moment as the sealing of cracks in logs log. Within the framework of the article, let's talk about five ways that give a lasting result.

How to effectively eliminate cracks

The erection of houses, farm buildings, baths and other structures with the help of a log house has been used for hundreds of years. During this time mankind has accumulated many ways of repair. Our grandfathers and fathers knew how to repair the cracks in the logs of the log house. Having analyzed all the information, discarding obsolete technologies that have modern analogs, we have prepared the most accessible ways:

putty compound with sawdust and PVA glue;
application of putty on wood;
use of sealant;
caulking with moss;
filling with arbogips.

Putty with a mix of sawdust and PVA glue has been used for decades to seal cracks. The method is captivating with simplicity and reliability. To prepare putty - add sawdust to the glue until a thick, mushy consistency is obtained. Prepared mixture put with a construction spatula, pushing it deep into the crack. After drying, some of the sawdust will fall off, repeat the work again.

Modern manufacturers offer the population the material that does not require special preparation: putty on wood. It can also be used for restoration of the log house. One condition: the depth of the defect should not exceed 3 mm, otherwise all the work will go wrong. If desired, you can choose the composition that best fits the color of the log, in which case the seam will be invisible.

Sealant can also eliminate cracks. The only condition is to lay a polypropylene material in the depth of the defect, twisted by a tourniquet. By itself, the sealant is unable to fill the cavities, but it holds the two surfaces together. Combination with a polypropylene seal allows to save the result for several years.

The last method is arbogips. So in the construction called the composition of water, gypsum and filler. In the role of the latter, masters use sawdust more often. First, prepare a mixture of dry ingredients, the ratio of gypsum to sawdust 1: 3. At this stage it is important to obtain a uniform composition. Then add water (should be a plastic paste). The cooked arbiogus grasps for 15 minutes, so do not hesitate to do the work.

If you do not want to repeat the sealing of cracks in the logs logs after the first winter - do not work in wet weather. Violation of this rule will lead to the formation of a moist cavity in the log, the wood will start to rot faster, the crack in the spring will be even wider.

It would be superfluous to protect the whole surface from putty, especially when working with sealant. Use ordinary paint tape, and you'll save the appearance of the logs.

If you buy a new frame, and do not want to deal with the elimination of cracks in the near future - pay attention to the presence of a compensation cut in the upper part of the log. This is an incision of 1 cm in width and up to a third of the diameter of the log. When it shrinks, it expands, the wood compacts, longitudinal cracks do not form.

Over time, cracks appear in logs. This is a natural process for a tree that can not be completely prevented. Special protective compounds and sealing joints protect the surface for 5-10 years. Note that small cracks will not affect the quality of the log structure and do not pose a serious danger to the structure. But if the defect is more than 5 mm in width, and in length spread over the whole surface of the log, urgent measures must be taken.

In the slit easily gets moisture, which accelerates the decay of wood. In addition, such defects worsen the appearance of the house and reduce the thermal insulation properties.

The greatest number of cracks in logs is formed in the first 12 months of shrinkage shrinkage. The fact is that outside the wood dries out faster than inside. Therefore, almost dry from above the log remains moist in the center. This difference stretches the outer layers of the tree, and the internal, on the contrary, compresses. As a result, the fibers are torn from the outside, which causes cracks on the surface of the logs. The faster the shrinkage occurs, the more crevices appear.

How to avoid the appearance of cracks

Continuous natural drying of logs before the installation of the log has a positive effect on the quality of products, enhances strength, improves appearance and improves the operational life. Lumber should dry long and evenly. It is important to provide approximately the same speed of drying of the inner and outer layers. For this, the logs are dried in a cool and dry place for at least two years. The size of cracks directly depends on the duration of drying of wood.

Choose only high-quality logs with primary treatment with antiseptics, fire retardants and other protective compounds. This will keep the wood from fungus, germs, mold and other troubles. The masters of the construction company "MariSrub" independently harvest logs and carefully follow each stage of production of materials, which raises the quality of the product.

To avoid cracks, logs are often made with a discharge or compensatory cut, which removes stress in wood fibers. And the drying of logs inside is faster. The propyl is made along the surface of the material in the form of a flat groove 8-10 mm thick and a depth of ¼ diameter of the log. To prevent moisture from falling into the wood, when assembling the log, the log is laid up with propyl. Thus, the cut will close the top of the lying log.

Casing sealing not only warms the house, but also prevents the growth and appearance of new cracks in the logs. Special attention It is necessary to give sealing of the ends, since they dry out much faster than other sections of the log. To seal the ends, cover with varnish or wax. You can also use oil paint or lacquer.

How to effectively fill the cracks in the hallway

But how to repair cracks in logs, if they already appeared? Completely get rid of defects will not succeed, but you can hide the presence and prevent thickening of the cracks. There are several options for sealing:

Self-made putty from PVA and sawdust is an affordable way. Sawdust and PV mix, bring to the state of putty and fill with a mixture of slits with a spatula. If part of the putty after drying disappears, the free space is filled with the mixture again;
Wide and deep cracks can be embedded in a chip. Slivers are selected the same length as the slit. Then the wooden pieces are sharpened with a wedge and clogged into cracks, and the top is fixed with a putty for wood or putty from sawdust and PVA;
Arbogips is a mixture of gypsum with crushed bark or sawdust, which is distinguished by strength, reliability and durability. Dry gypsum is mixed with sawdust or bark in a ratio of 1 to 3. Then diluted with water in a volume equal to half the mass of gypsum. The dense and elastic mixture is thoroughly mixed to leave no lumps. By the way, for more elasticity, you can add a few drops of shampoo to the solution. Close the gap immediately after preparing the mixture, as it quickly solidifies. Arbo-gypsum is laid in a gap with a spatula and left until completely dry;
Log-logs moss is suitable for large slots. Moss is a natural and safe material that does not disturb the aesthetic appearance of a house or a bath. It will close the cracks and block the access to the cold room. To seal, dry moss is used which is soaked in water for half an hour before use. Then the water is drained, the material is squeezed and rolled into rollers. Rollers are laid in cracks and compacted with a hammer or kiyanki until the layer begins to spring. Moss dries out for three days, after which the excess material is trimmed;
Fix the cracks with the finished putty on wood. Quality products quickly dry, hold on long and are resistant to moisture, cold;
Sealants firmly connect the walls of the tree. But note that for deep cracks such a tool is not suitable. The sealant layer should not exceed 5 mm. In a deeper crack, first put a plastic tow, and then pour the sealant.

The above methods will preserve the appearance and increase the service life of the frame. To strengthen the effect and achieve a positive result, you need to implement a number of rules for sealing the slots.

Rules for sealing cracks

Closing the cracks is better at plus temperature;
Before work, thoroughly clean the surface of the logs and deepen the cracks, remove the debris and dust;
Fixation of cracks is carried out in dry weather and on dry wood;
When the gap is very deep, the edges are pasted with a paint tape to prevent the sealant or other agent from entering the log surface;
If the sealant is on the surface of the log, wait for it to dry and remove with fine sandpaper;
After the completion of the work, the surface of the composition is wetted and lined with a brush to make the logs smooth;
After application, the compounds are allowed to dry for a minimum of 6 hours, moss for three days.

What kind of putty for wood to choose

If you decide to seal cracks in logs with putty, it is important to choose the right material. For works outside the frame, choose the means that resist moisture and cold. Note that a thick water-based putty is better bonded to wood than a liquid with a solvents content. However, solvent-based products are more suitable for deep cracks. Let's take a closer look at the kinds of putty for the log:

Acrylic - an environmentally safe and odorless product. It is easily applied and preserves the natural color of the wood, dries quickly and does not allow moisture to pass through. Such a putty smooths the surface, does not shrink and does not leave cracks after drying. However, it is suitable for sealing gaps with a depth of only 2 mm. Applied to remove small defects log from chopped or rounded logs and cracks in the wooden floor;
Waterproof it is highly resistant to moisture, precipitation and temperature changes, therefore, it is optimally suited for external processing of logs. Are made in the form of pastes on a polymeric, oil or glutinous basis. Polymeric putty masks cracks, seams, joints and is suitable for finishing the frame. The adhesive is easily applied to the wood and is highly durable. The oil base is used when planning further coating of wood with oil, paint or varnish;

Gypsum it is able to maintain a comfortable microclimate, so it is suitable only for sealing gaps inside. The material differs plasticity and whiteness, easy application and grinding;
Non-shrinking suitable for the elimination of serious and deep cracks, chips, etc. This is a high-quality and durable putty, which is ideal for a log house. They produce different color variants for oak, larch, pine and other wood species.

Today the market offers a lot of different types of putties. Before choosing carefully study the reviews, instructions and description of the product. It is important to choose a quality composition without dirt, sand and lumps! Let's look at the best manufacturers that offer wood putty.

Firm	pros	Minuses	Cost
Tikkurila (Finland)	Quickly adapt to the color of the tree, suitable for any wooden surfaces, resistant to frost and temperature changes	High price	500 rubles (0.5 liters)
Extra (Russia)	Strong and moisture-resistant materials, suitable for work from the outside and inside, are characterized by low consumption and low price,	Basically acrylic species that are not suitable for deep cracks	60 rubles (0.45 kg)
Eurotex (Russia)	Plastic mass in a convenient package, easy to apply, grind and sand out	Poor color scheme and great shrinkage	80 rubles (0.225 kg)
Parade (Russia, Sweden)	Water-resistant putty well grinded and quickly dries, convenient packing and reasonable price	Too liquid, it is difficult to apply	80 rubles (0.4 kg)
Rainbow (Russia)	Small consumption and quick drying, elastic and moisture resistant mass with a small shrinkage at a low price	Suitable only for work at temperatures above 15 degrees of heat	119 rubles (0.9 kg)

What sealant for wood to choose

Sealants are popular means for sealing small cracks in logs. Advantages of this method lie in the quick and easy application of the product, improving the appearance of the log house. When choosing, pay attention to the composition, color and stability of the material to moisture and cold. Today, there are the following types of sealant:

Acrylic well binds the walls of wood, is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes. It is an eco-friendly and safe odorless material that is used to seal cracks inside a log house;
Silicone - a universal material for work inside and outside the house. It tolerates temperature changes and increased humidity, cold and ultraviolet. However, it is impossible to stain such a sealant, but it is represented in a wide range of colors, and also produces transparent means;
Bitumen is the most water-resistant product, which consists of bitumen and rubber. Such a sealant is used for drains and wooden roofing;
Polyurethane is resistant to high humidity, elasticity and sealing properties. However, it is harmful to humans, since the composition includes corrosive substances. This sealant is used only for exterior work.

The modern market for building and finishing materials offers a variety of sealants, let's look at the popular manufacturers.

Sealant	Characteristic	Cost
Neomid (Russia)	Fixes cracks with deformation of 15 20 and 30%, distinguishes elasticity and flexibility, resistance to moisture and temperature changes	350 rubles (0.6 kg)
Eurotex (Russia)	Acrylic sealant protects wood from moisture and insects, suitable for sealing side and end cracks of the log, elastic and durable material	1000 rubles (3 kg)
Remmers (Germany)	It repairs cracks inside and outside the frame, resists precipitation and temperature changes, is compatible with paint and varnish, produces transparent and color variants	400 rubles (0.6 liters)
Ceresite (Poland)	Acrylic and silicone compounds tolerate the effects of moisture, frost, ultraviolet and temperature changes, minimal shrinkage	160 rubles (310ml)
Check Mate (USA)	Elite elastic acrylic sealant is ideal for sealing cracks and crevices, protects the wood from moisture and mold, and provides minimal shrinkage.	1300 rubles (650 ml)

When working with sealant, the seams and slots do not fill completely to the brim. It is important to apply the composition so that it touches two points of the tree, while connecting the two opposite edges. If you do not know which tool to choose and how to properly repair cracks in logs, contact the company "MariSrub" !! Experienced masters will consult on each issue that concerns the construction and finishing of a wooden house or a bath, will perform work on the processing of walls from logs.