Do not turn the ball cock. We fix the water tap independently

Is there water in your apartment? There is. To close it, for example, to replace the mixer or replace the hose, it is necessary to close the inlet valve. But if it does not overlap? Perhaps it requires repair, and maybe a replacement.

So, in order. Of course, it's better that an experienced plumber does this, but if you need to repair urgently, and you do not have the opportunity to call for plumbing, you will need this knowledge.

First, if your introductory ball valve is not repairable, it can be tried to "revive" it. If the crane handle has broken - just close the pliers, - the end of the rod has a flat shape, and just turn it 90 degrees to block the water.

A ball valve is called a ball valve because there is a ball with a through hole inside the body of the valve. In the closed position, the hole is perpendicular to the movement of the water, in the open position - completely coincides with the internal section of the crane. If the tap is not fully opened, over time the surface of the ball is covered with a touch of iron oxide, a rusty coating, which can then not only impede the rotation, but also completely stop it. Therefore, owners of ball valves should occasionally close-open them in order to avoid the overgrown ball. If this still happened, and the tap does not turn, place a rag on it, moistened with kerosene or diesel oil, or sprinkle with brake fluid or WD. After a while, very carefully start to develop the valve micromotion handles back and forth. If you manage to move the ball from the spot - consider that everything turned out, the main thing is not to rush. If it did not work out, the crane will have to be changed.

  If the introductory valve is a valve, it is often not difficult to repair it. We list the tools you need: it is advisable to have the car keys 22-24-27-30, if not - the adjustable wrench, the knife, the flat screwdriver, the piece of sheet rubber and the stuffing box packing (you can replace the stick or fum-tape).

The upper part of the valve is called cranbux. The valve handle is set to The stem, at the other end of which (inside the valve) is a rubber penny. When closing the pin, it fits snugly against the seat inside the valve, and stops the movement of the water. If the rod does not rotate - repeat the operations with diesel fuel, etc., described above. If it was not possible to develop or the rod is rotated, it is necessary to replace crane boxes with identical ones. If you succeeded in closing the valve, and the result is zero, disassembly of the valve is necessary. First you need to close the water on the riser in the basement or at the water inlet to your house. We unscrew the crankbox, holding it with the key beyond the edges in its lower part. On the end of the rod, entering the valve, you will see a rubber penny ... or its absence. It is necessary that he was in excellent condition. If necessary, we change it. We inspect the condition of the saddle inside the valve and, if necessary, carefully clean it from the build-up. The saddle should be smooth enough and without shells. Now you can spin the crankbox back, prewiring a bit of pakly or fuma on the last threads. Now the only thing that can overshadow the work of an almost new valve is the digging of water between the stem and the nut, which is directly under the handle of the valve.

In the language of plumbers, the gland runs. It is necessary to remove the handle of the valve and unscrew the nut. You will see a clamping ring, which is most likely completely recessed inside the crane box. Take it out with pliers, wrap around the stem the padding material you have and press it with a screwdriver. Replace the ring and nut. If the nut does not reach the thread - reduce the amount of packing. Twist the nut to a small resistance, if necessary - pull up. The valve was assembled. Now close it and open the valve on the riser. If you did everything right - your valve now "holds".

If the tap constantly drips, then this fault in most cases is leaky gasket. If the valve of the crane starts turning (scrolling), and the water does not overlap, then the thread on the core has failed. Let's look at both of these problems by trying to solve them. For this we replace not only the rubber gasket, but the entire core. We will carry out the operation on a standard tap, where hot and cold water is started with two valves. Such cranes were popular in Soviet times, and are still used by many unpretentious hosts.

Water should be blocked first. In our case, it is necessary to replace the core, which is responsible for starting hot water, so we only blocked it. Then you can proceed with the analysis of the valve. To do this, you need to get to the screw, which the valve is screwed to the core. For this we needed to unscrew the small cover (Big pliers were required). In your case, everything can be even simpler, a red or blue cap is faked with a stationery knife and is removed. It all depends on the type of the valve.

So, we got to the screw. Now it should be unscrewed. Old screws to unscrew very difficult, so we used a screwdriver. But usually you can do with an ordinary flat-blade screwdriver.

Having unscrewed the screw, you easily remove the valve. Now the core will appear before you. It is in it almost always the problem lies in the leakage of the crane or the cranking of the valve.

Now all this detail must be unscrewed from the mixer. To do this, rotate the core counterclockwise with pliers, a nut or a gas wrench. In old cases, the first movements can be given with difficulty. But then the part can be unscrewed even with your fingers.

In the photo you see an example of an old core with an installed rubber gasket. If your problem is simple leakage, then you just need to change the gasket. It is sold in any sanitary ware shop, the cost of one piece is a ruble or a little more. Sometimes gaskets are sold in sets. With a great desire, the gasket can be cut from a piece of rubber by yourself. This method will have to resort, if the dimensions and worn gaskets are unusual. The hole inside is easiest to do with a drill and a miniature drill.

On the next photo you see three usual rubber gaskets. Note that for hot water it is recommended to use leather or silicone products.

Replace the gasket is very simple, usually it is clamped with a small screw. But in our case it was necessary to replace the whole core. If you have the same problem, then we recommend you go to the sanitary ware shop with a twisted core. The fact is that many varieties of such details are being produced now. There is a chance to buy inappropriate. In the photo you see the old core next to the new one. As you can see, its shape is slightly different. But this is not a big role. The main thing is to exactly match the diameter of the core. There is such a sanitary detail about 50 rubles.

With the installation of the core after its replacement (or after replacing the gasket), problems should not arise. Do just everything in reverse order. To start, screw the core into the mixer. This time, the key or pliers need to be turned clockwise. Screw the part as hard as possible so that there is not a single gap left.

Now you need to screw the valve screw into the core. In some cases, a longer screw may be required than was previously. We have had such a case, this is due to the changed shape of the core.

Screw in the screw and insert the cap or the cap of the valve in its place. At this repair is completed! It remains only to open the water and check the operation of the crane.

Water leakage from the faucet or tap faucet

Cause of crane failure

Ring punching, chipping of the edges of the rubber gasket

Close the valve (Fig. 2) with water, turning the handwheel clockwise until it stops. The valve is usually located on the supply pipe under the sink, wash basin, side of the bath. If there is no valve or it does not "hold" water, close the corresponding valve at the entrance to the apartment. Usually it is installed in the toilet. In individual houses, the valve can be installed near the exterior walls on the ground floor or in the basement. Having blocked water, turn out a little a flywheel with a rod from the valve head. After making sure that there is no water, unscrew the head with a swivel or spanner. This releases the valve with the gasket and seat. If the valve head body is chrome plated, aluminum or brass gaskets are put under the key. The flywheel of the valve head is of different shapes. If it is in the form of a cap, be sure to remove it from the stem, otherwise you will not be able to install the key and unscrew the valve head.

The valve head of the water tap GVO-D-P-15 (production association "Tulasanotekhnika" with rotary-translational movement of the rod) (Figure 1)

Fig. 1. Valve head of the faucet with rotary-translational movement of the rod:1 - the index; 2-screw; 3 machinok; 4 stuffing box sleeve; 5 - brass ring; 6 - stuffing box packing; 7 - housing; 8 -plastic gasket (seal); 9 - stem; 10 - the valve; 11 - rubber (leather) gasket; 12 - seat of the crane body (mixer body); 13-plastic gasket-valve; 14 - rubber tapered gasket-valve; 15 - rubber cone gasket

So, the valve head is removed. If the head is repaired for the first time, unscrew the screw 2 (see figure 1) from the valve and put it in the box with the fasteners together with the washer. More they will not be needed. Use rubber gaskets, whose diameter is 1mm larger than the inside diameter of the valve seat. This is enough to ensure that the gasket is firmly seated in the socket. The cutting edge, the pads, cut with a pair of scissors around the circumference approximately at an angle of 45 ° (Figure 3). Then the valve head will not give out "machine-gun bursts". Gaskets can be bought in shops "Sanitary engineering", in "Bureau of services", etc.

Fig. 2. Turning the flywheel of the valve and turning the valve head

And what kind of rubber to use for self-made rubber gaskets? For these purposes, a special food grade rubber with a hardness of at least 4 mm is recommended. But such rubber is not given out even in the housing department and the RGU. We have to look for something similar in physical properties. The structure of rubber is divided into monolithic and spongy. Sponge rubber, including microporous, for gaskets is not suitable, ie, soles of microporous rubber, sponges for washing, rubber seats for seals can not be used.

The degree of vulcanization of rubber is divided into soft, semi-solid and solid. Vulcanizing agent is mainly sulfur. For sanitary purposes, you can use a semi-solid rubber. Technical rubber (GOST 7338-90) is produced in the form of sheets with a length of 250-3000, a width of 250-1000, a thickness of 2-60 mm. They also produce roll technical rubber with a length of 500-3000, a width of 250-1350, a thickness of 0.3-50 mm. This rubber keeps its efficiency at a temperature from -40 to +80 ° C, and some varieties do not lose their qualities and at a temperature from -30 to + 90 ° C.

Fig. 3. Removing the worn gasket from the valve valve

For sanitary purposes rubber is used with a thickness of 1.5-10 mm. In the absence of special technical rubber, you can use worn-out rubber shoes, rubber toys, balls, cameras, rims of automobile tires and swimming caps, rubber burners, tracks and household mats (cutting off the last relief), etc. It is important to choose the rubber of the desired thickness and hardness.

And how to distinguish soft rubber from semi-solid?

Pencil eraser - soft, and rubber on the heels and soles of rubber boots or shoes - semi-hard. The hardness of a semi-solid rubber is comparable to the hardness of a belt leather belt.

For gaskets for valve heads, a semi-solid monolithic rubber with a thickness of 4-8 mm is required. You can make gaskets from this rubber in several ways.

Place a strip of rubber on the board and cut the gasket along the intended diameter with a sharp knife, as if you were dividing the bread into slices. The result is a polygon. Faster make the pads by punching (see Figure 18).

Malfunction of the crane

Hot water leakage from faucet or faucet

Cause of crane failure

Ring punching and cracking of the leather padding

How to solve the crane failure

Replace the leather gasket with a rubber gasket, as hot water ishes out tannins from the skin. Skin hardens, cracked, stops filling small flaws on the saddle of the faucet or mixer. For gaskets, you can use a special technical skin, is suitable and kozhemit.

For the manufacture of gaskets in valves cold water  possible to use and old leather belt. It is also possible to use a leather sole, but only that part of it where the inner and outer surfaces are parallel to one another, or the file is thickened with a file from the outer surface. In the latter case, the sawn side of the gasket should face the valve seat or the mixer.

Malfunction of the crane

Leakage of water from a faucet or faucet.

Cause of crane failure

Ring extrusion of plastic gasket or plastic gasket-valve

How to solve the crane failure

Replace the plastic gasket on the rubber, gasket-valve - on the brass valve and rubber gasket. Plastic properties of plastic are such that even with hot water, when the softening of plastic occurs, it does not fill the sink in the saddle of the faucet or mixer that was formed during operation.

Malfunction of the crane

When the valve head of the valve is opened, a roar or "machine-gun turns"

Cause of crane failure

Vibration of rubber gasket edge and occurrence of hydraulic shocks in pipelines

How to solve the crane failure

Unscrew the valve head. Inspect the gasket. The ring edge 1X45 ° was probably cut on it (see Figure 4). But as the gasket wears out and the annular slot is formed on it from the seat, the edge of the alienated edge disintegrated and vibration began. Cut off approximately at an angle of 45 ° this edge, without removing the gaskets from the valve. Scissors need to cut off the elevation of this edge over the annular wall of the valve. This operation makes sense if the saddle cut through not more than 1/3 of the thickness of the gasket. Otherwise, the gasket must be replaced.

Figure 4. Raising the valve from the valve seat or mixer

If sharp sounds are not associated with the opening of the valve head, then the cause of the malfunction is not in the valve head. Note that the sounds spread through the pipes on several floors. You may have to bypass dozens of apartments and inspect dozens of valve heads before you find the cause of the abrupt sounds.

Malfunction of the crane

From the faucet or the tap of a mixer, water flows in a trickle

Cause of crane failure

Dyeing more than half the circular wall of the brass valve

How to solve the crane failure

Unscrew the valve head. If more than half of the valve wall has crumbled, then install the other one. The valve can not be restored. Now it is made of such plastic, which is not dyed. Insert the gasket into it and install it in the stem hole. If there is no new valve, you can temporarily fix the gasket with a screw. If possible, turn the new valve out of brass or bronze on a lathe. The valve must have an undercut, i.e. the diameter of the bottom of the socket should be 1-1.5 mm larger than the diameter of the upper edge. This will ensure a more solid "landing" of the gasket without a screw. Please note that the valve from the old valve head of the crane may well be suitable. Do not dispose of used cranes, they can be used as spare parts.

Fig. 5. Fixing the valve with the gasket in the rod

Valve heads in the bodies of the faucets or mixers can be located upside-down, horizontally, obliquely. When the head is unscrewed, the valve can remain on the seat. Remove it with narrow-nosed pliers or tweezers (Figure 4). To prevent the valve from dropping out of the hole in the rod, some plumbing edges of this opening are riveted and drive the valve stem there. But this is not recommended. The valve stem is specially installed (see figure 1) in the stem hole with clearance. This ensures a more even wear of the gasket. The valve will not fall out of the stem when the valve head is installed, if the tail of the seal or the usual threads is wound on the tail and insert it into the corresponding hole with force (Figure 5). Threads or threads will soon be wrinkled and come out with water.

Malfunction of the crane

Continuous water leakage from a faucet or spout mixer

Cause of crane failure

In one of the places of contact of the saddle and the gasket, there was a particle of sand or rust. This particle is pressed into the gasket

How to solve the crane failure

Open and close the valve head several times. If particles of sand or rust did not wash the water, unscrew the valve head and clean the gasket with a knife or screwdriver. The gasket may leave traces of particles, but the gasket itself is in good condition, then flip the gasket.

Malfunction of the crane

A tap of water from a faucet or spout of a mixer

Cause of crane failure

Wiped and cut the gasket in pieces washed with water. Sometimes a whole thin screw-not fastened with a screw puts water in a washbasin or in a sink

How to solve the crane failure

Unscrew the valve head and install a new gasket

Malfunction of the crane

After the valve head has been opened, water does not flow through the "spout" of the tap or spout of the mixer

Cause of crane failure

Drying of the gasket to the saddle of the valve body or the side of the mixer

How to solve the crane failure

A few times, hit something wooden on the body of the faucet or the sidewall of the mixer through which water should flow. If water still does not flow by closing the valve, unscrew the valve head. Look inside the valve. There is no gasket (Fig. 6). Inspect the seat in the valve body or the sidewall of the mixer. Sometimes this will require additional lighting. If the gasket is stuck to the seat, tie it with a screwdriver (figure 7) and clean it. If the gasket is in good condition and retained in the valve, then mount it in place with the adherent side to the bottom of the valve. The gasket usually dries up when the valve head is not used for a long time and the source 9 is too tightly wrapped (see Figure 1) or when the gasket is not attached to the valve with a screw.

Malfunction of the crane

From the "spout" of the faucet or the spout of the mixer, a jet of water gushes. The flywheel can be rotated as many as desired

Cause of crane failure

Partial wear of the last threads of the external thread of the rod. It rotates in the body thread

How to solve the crane failure

Urgently shut off the water valve (see Figure 2). If it does not "hold" or in a hurry you can not find it on the pipeline, rope or wire, push the flywheel as far inside the valve head, tie it to the body of the faucet or mixer (Figure 8). You can throw a towel or any rag on the faucet or faucet body so that the water flows into the sink or bath. Now you can safely find the valve and, shutting off the water, start temporary repairs. Turn out the valve head and inspect the stem. After making sure that there is still a suitable thread site left on the rod, use it in one of the following ways: install a gasket 5-7mm thick or thread a bit of wire (Figure 9, a) onto the shank. This will cause the valve to protrude more from the stem. The wire can be replaced with suitable washers. The same effect will be obtained if a piece of wire is inserted into the stem hole (Figure 9, b) or a bundle of wires so as to reduce the depth - the holes in the rod by 3-5 mm. The most correct solution is the replacement of the rod. However, in the store they can not be bought. It remains to cut the rod on a lathe made of brass or bronze. Usually the external thread on the stem Kr 12X2.54 GOST 13536-68. To change the stem, disassemble the head: remove the pointer, remove the screw, separate the flywheel, unscrew and eject the stem. The stem leaves the housing more easily with a slightly unscrewed oil seal bush. Insert the new stem. If not, change the entire valve head

Malfunction of the crane

The screw does not turn out of the rod

Cause of crane failure

The surface of the threaded part of the screw was rusted and because of this it was heard in the stem thread

How to solve the crane failure

Hit 3-4 times with a hammer on the butt of the screwdriver, with the blade of the blade in the slot of the screw (Figure 10, a). He may not succumb in this case. Then you need to unscrew the valve head and break the flywheel, if it is porcelain, or cut with a hacksaw, if plastic. Now, put each face of the square of the rod on the hammer of the hammer and strike on the opposite side with a second hammer (Figure 10, b). Vices, rail, anvil, ax ax, etc., will replace the first hammer. Try unscrewing the screw with a pair of pliers. It can break off. Then thread out the protruding part of the screw with the file, hook the end of the remaining part of the screw, drill and cut the new thread. If it is impossible to drill a screw, cut off its head with a hacksaw. Often there is a washer under it. Remove it. Now the valve head can be repaired and operated using a removable flywheel. Want to completely eliminate the defect quickly and without hassle - replace the stem.

Fig. 10. Removing the rusty screw

Henceforth, immediately after purchasing a new head, the steel screw even with a coating (gray or dark when blown), turn and insert a brass, which is usually chromed (the color of the mixer cover). If the brass screw is not found, lubricate the steel screw abundantly with any lubricant (petrolatum, bacon, margarine, etc.) and re-wrap in the rod

Malfunction of the crane

From the faucet or the spout of the mixer, a stream gushes. The rod, rotated by a flywheel, turns

Cause of crane failure

The initial turns of the internal threads of the valve body or the mixer that were in contact with the external thread on the rod worn out

How to solve the crane failure

Unscrew the valve head. Check that the thread of the housing is worn. Replace the housing by removing the suitable one with the failed valve head. Usually, the body thread is worn out more slowly than the stem thread. The body usually serves 2-3 times longer than the stem. However, it is necessary to pay attention to the thread of the installed housing. Threads of different bodies may not coincide, since over the past years the threads have changed in the direction of enlargement

Malfunction of the crane

At a normal thickness of an epiploon the bushing of an epiploon

Cause of crane failure

The first turns of carving of the case in the place of wrapping of a stuffing box bushing are broken off

How to solve the crane failure

Remove partially stuffing box packing

Malfunction of the crane

From under the flywheel in the form of a cap, water drips or flows. The same through the annular gap between the gland bush and the stem, if the flywheel has the shape of a cross

Cause of crane failure

Loosening packing stuffing box

How to solve the crane failure

Remove the flywheel in the form of a cap. Tighten the gland bushing with a wrench (Fig. 11, a). Do not use pliers or pliers for this, because you cut off the corners between the faces, but you will not achieve a result. The key after cutting corners will become useless. It will be necessary to change the bushing. Strongly tighten the bushing of the stuffing box with a normal amount of stuffing, too. Because then you will not turn the stock. If the bush is already tightened to the stop, then you need to report or completely update the stuffing box packing. To do this, completely twist the rod with a flywheel (Fig. 11, b). It is possible not to block the valve on the inlet pipe, but the rod must remain in this position until the end of the packing. Now remove the pointer 1, screw 2, flywheel 3 (Figure 11, c). While holding the body of the head with a key beyond the edges, use another key to unscrew the bushing. The body must be stationary. With an awl or screwdriver, remove the ring. On the old stuffing lay a new one, wrapping it with the rod in the direction of twisting the stuffing box sleeve. What material should be used for stuffing? They produce a stuffing box (GOST5152-84) round, square and rectangular section.

For valve heads are suitable: AP - twisted, impregnated with fat antifriction composition, graphitized, asbestos;

AG - wicker, glued with graphite, asbestos;

ХБС - wicker, dry, cotton; LS - braided from bast fibers, dry; CKD - ​​woven, impregnated with fatty antifrictional composition, graphitized, cotton.

Fig. 11. Elimination of water leakage from under the gland seal sleeve bushing

In section, these packings can have sizes from 2 to 14 mm. For a more dense laying, before use, twist or braid. Fill with separate threads. Issue and an asbestos cord of grades ШАП, STEP, ШАМ in diameter 2-4мм. More commonly used is the more common and available flax. Its fibers, in comparison with other plant, have great tensile strength, low elongation, intensive moisture absorption, resistance to decay, the highest air and thermal permeability. Linen strand roll into a cord with a diameter of 2-4 mm and lay in the ring gap between the stem and the body. Each layer is ground with a screwdriver. To increase water resistance, it is not forbidden to slightly moisten with linseed oil, sunflower or machine oil. Having put a part of packing, put on a ring a ring and wrap up the plug of an epiploon. It is important not to overfill the stuffing box. In any case, in order not to break the thread, the gland bush must contact at least two threads of threads with the body. If you do not have linen strands, then do not forget that packing and sack fabrics, cords, tapes, thread threads, etc. are manufactured from flax, and it is most easy to pull the already curled flaxen strands from the edge of burlap. A full replacement for flax are hemp and jute. Any rope is made by rolling 3-4 strands, twisted in turn from several threads, called truncheons. Such hemp, jute and even cotton logs are suitable for stuffing the stuffing box. In the absence of the listed materials, use any twine, twine, except for paper and synthetic. To increase water resistance, moisten them with fat. It is permissible to produce the packing with narrow strips that are cut off or torn off from the cotton cloth, folded into flagella. It is also better to moisten them with fat. As a finished gland, use a rubber tube suitable for outer and inner diameters. You put it on the rod and slide it into the body. The length of the tube should be chosen so that the twist sleeve of the stuffing box distributes the rubber tube, ensuring a seal

Repair water tap often is much easier than replacing it, so this simple operation is worth mastering every home master.

Before you start repair, you have to close the water valve. Usually he is in the apartments in the toilet, and if it is a garden plot, then in a place where your part of the water pipe is moving away from the highway. In the modern housing can be installed and separate valves for each tap. In this case, they should be looked for under a sink, sink or gas stove. After the water is blocked, you can start repairing. Before turning the knob, you need to open the water tap gently to allow the spindle and the shoe to move away from the saddle. It is most convenient to turn the crown with a gas wrench, but you can also use a wrench of suitable dimensions. After finishing the repair, it is necessary to take the head, remove the old seal from the groove, wind the flax string in the direction of the circular arrow. When the form of the seal becomes like a cone, it must be moistened with water, so the fibers do not turn. The head can be replaced. Generally, in a crane head repair may be required for four elements: a gasket, a valve, a spindle or an oil seal bushing. A plumber with experience can determine the problem without dismantling the crane.

We repair water faucets: gasket

In the event that the tap has flowed and the leak lasts for several days, even when the spindle is completely screwed, in this case the fault is the gasket. It can wear or harden, and can also be cut by sharp edges of the saddle. It is necessary to turn out the head and turn the screw that secures the gasket. It is more appropriate and more convenient to use a gasket that has a diameter larger by a millimeter than a valve seat. So the gasket will hold tightly in the nest. The edges that protrude can be cut with scissors. Now you can collect everything.

We repair the water tap: valve

If the tap is not new, it can sometimes turn out that the walls of the valve or socket are crumbled. If the larger half of the circumference is damaged, the valve can not be repaired. In such a nest, the gasket is not centered, but constantly moves on the saddle, because of this the crane flows. The valve can be purchased in a shop or machined on a lathe. However, the easiest way to move the valve from the old head, which is usually available at the reservoir home master.

We repair the water tap: spindle

Sometimes it happens that a powerful stream of water constantly flows from the tap, and there is no possibility to block it: the handwheel turns very easily together with the spindle. After the water is blocked, the head can be turned out. There you can see that a few end threads of the external spindle thread from the handwheel side are erased. In the case when it comes to a common valve, you can wrap the head in place and pribintovat handwheel, feeding it forward as much as possible until you have the opportunity to do repairs.

We repair tap water: body and bushing

In the case, too, there is a thread that is subject to erasure. Usually the body is in common with two spindles. Often when you open the tap starts to drip from the stuffing box. If the drops fall into the washbasin, bath or sink, it's not as bad as if they are dripping for other purposes. To begin with it is necessary to tighten the bushing with a key. You can not tighten strongly, otherwise it will stop spinning. In case the bushing is tightened, it is necessary to update the packing of the stuffing box groove. This must be done with the tap closed, the main valve can not be blocked.

Usually the repaired water tap is in operation better than the new one, so you should never throw away the head that has become unusable, as some of its elements may be useful.