Recipes for treating tomatoes against late blight. How to spray tomatoes against late blight. Prevention against infection

Let's distinguish between these special remedies by purpose - some of them are used to prevent late blight, or when the disease has just begun to manifest itself, and others, stronger ones, are used to treat plants from late blight. How and when to treat tomatoes against late blight is up to you.

For example, drugs such as Fitosporin and Trichodermin, Quadris and Previkur are suitable for treating tomatoes in the initial stage of late blight disease, but with severe development of the disease, Ridomil Gold, Bravo, Kuproxat, Thanos, Tattoo, Consento, etc. are more suitable.

Phytosporin for spraying tomatoes against late blight

A very popular biological product, used mainly for the prevention of late blight. They treat the soil with it during planting and spray the plants during the growing season for preventive purposes. For the treatment of late blight, it is less effective than chemical agents.

To prevent late blight, dilute 5 grams of powder per 10 liters of water and spray the plantings. Repeat after 7-10 days. The product is ineffective during precipitation and is washed off by rain.

Also among biological preparations for the prevention of fungal diseases, Baktofit, Baikal Em, Phytophtorin, Planriz, etc. are used.

Alirin and Gamair from late blight

These are microbiological preparations for protecting plants from fungal and bacterial diseases. Available in tablets.

To treat tomatoes against late blight, 1 tablet of Alirin and 1 tab. Dissolve Gamaira in 1 liter of water and spray the affected plants. After a week, repeat the procedure. This treatment is usually very effective.

Quadris for late blight, application

A unique systemic fungicide with a broad spectrum of action. It has a therapeutic, systemic, eradicating effect, destroys the pathogen during the incubation period. The eradicating effect of Quadris makes it possible to stop the spread and development of infection in the area.

To treat tomatoes against late blight, you need to dilute 2 ml of the product in 2 liters of water and spray the plantings. Leaves and stems should be wetted on all sides. Spraying with Quadris is carried out after the formation of two brushes and then 1 more time after 10-14 days.

Ridomil Gold against late blight on tomatoes

This is a contact-systemic fungicide, effective in the fight against late blight and alternaria, as well as other fungal diseases. Active ingredient: 40 g/kg mefenoxam + 640 g/kg mancozeb. Double action is decisive: the plant is protected from the inside and outside.

To treat tomatoes against late blight, 10 g of the drug is diluted in 4 liters of water. Spraying is carried out by wetting the leaves on both sides and the stems. It is advisable to treat plants both before and after the disease. 3 treatments are allowed with an interval of 10-14 days. The fruits can be eaten 14 days after processing.

Thanos, instructions for use against late blight

Fungicide with a curative effect and resistance to washout by precipitation to combat Alternaria and late blight of tomatoes, white and gray rot, and downy mildew.

After treatment with this drug, a film is formed on the surface of the leaf, which acts as a protective barrier, preventing the pathogen from penetrating into the plant.

To prepare a working solution, dilute 6 grams of Thanos in 10 liters of water and spray tomatoes against late blight. This amount of solution is enough to treat 1 hundred square meters of plantings.

Anthracol for late blight, application

This is a modern complex fungicide from Bayer, used to combat fungal plant diseases. It can be used both for the prevention and treatment of late blight. The treated surface of plants and crops is covered with a protective film that completely blocks the development of fungi.

The active component of Antrokol is propineb, which contains zinc, which during spraying not only does not cause harm, but also enriches the soil, provided that all requirements for the use of a fungicide are met.

The effectiveness of the fungicide Antrakol begins to manifest itself after 2 hours. The protective effect lasts 2 weeks. 3 treatments are allowed, with an interval of 10 days.

To spray tomatoes against late blight, dilute 15 grams of the drug in 10 liters of water. This amount is enough to spray 1 hundred square meters of plantings.

Proton Extra, instructions for use

An effective fungicide against late blight on potatoes and tomatoes with protective and healing effects. Active ingredient: Copper oxychloride, Oxadixil (670+130 g/kg). The drug is available in a 20 gram package.

Spectrum of action: used to combat diseases caused by fungi of the oomycete subclass. Well suited for protecting potatoes and tomatoes from late blight and macrosporiosis, and cucumbers from mildew (downy mildew).

To prepare a working solution, dilute 20 g of the drug in 10 liters of water. This amount of liquid is enough to process 1 hundred square meters of plantings.

Impact speed. Oxadixil is quickly absorbed and penetrates deeply into plant leaves (within about 2 hours), copper oxychloride remains on the leaf surface.

Period of protective action- 7 - 14 days depending on the degree of damage. The preventive effect lasts 7 - 14 days, the therapeutic effect lasts 2 - 4 days after infection with pathogens.

Terms of use. Spraying during the growing season: 1st treatment when the first signs of the disease appear, subsequent ones at intervals of 10-12 days, depending on the development of the disease.

Hom, application for late blight

The active ingredient of the drug is copper oxychloride (900 g/kg). An effective remedy for many garden diseases, including late blight of tomatoes and potatoes.

To spray plants against late blight, dilute 40 grams of Homa in 10 liters of water. 1 liter of working solution is enough to treat 10 square meters. m landings. Waiting period 5 days.

Bordeaux mixture for the treatment of late blight

This mixture of quicklime and copper sulfate is used to treat tomatoes against late blight during the growing season, but not when the fruits are already beginning to ripen. This is still a very harmful chemical compound. Be sure to maintain a waiting period after processing.

To spray tomatoes, use a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. It is sold ready-made, or you can take individual components and prepare the solution yourself. To do this, dissolve 100 grams of copper sulfate in 1 liter of warm water and then adjust the volume to 5 liters. In the second container, 100 grams of lime are poured into 5 liters of water and stirred well. Then the vitriol solution is carefully poured into the resulting milk of lime.

During the growing season of tomatoes, we recommend increasing their overall immunity, that is, developing their resistance to certain diseases using special means. We use Immunocytophyte because we consider it the most reliable.

If you have dealt with late blight on your site, please write in the comments what drugs or products you used? What helped you in the fight against this disease? Sergey

Turmeric helps against late blight. Spraying with curcumin is recommended by professionals who have saved more than one plant from this infection.

Copper oxychloride and sulfate have an extremely negative effect on soil fertility and accumulate very quickly to unacceptable levels. In addition, they destroy entomophages, thereby promoting the development of pests.

Thank you very much for the selection. It is very convenient that all the drugs for late blight are in one place. I went into the store from my phone and immediately looked at what suitable product was on sale, without having to navigate through several sites. Thanks again.

Tomato late blight treatment

Every experienced vegetable grower knows what late blight is. This disease is easily recognized by the following signs:

the reverse side of the sheets becomes stained;
shoots darken;
In some places the fruits turn black.

Late blight is a widespread and very dangerous fungal disease of nightshade crops. Cold and humid climates contribute to its appearance.

Preventive control of late blight on tomatoes in greenhouses and open ground is constantly necessary, since infection spreads very quickly and can damage the entire crop.

Late blight on tomatoes, treatment and main causes of infection

The late blight virus is surprisingly viable. Its invisible spores can be found anywhere: in the soil, on plant debris, seed material, all surfaces of greenhouses, and garden tools. Therefore, the main task of vegetable growers is to reduce the number of harmful spores, as well as eliminate any prerequisites for their further reproduction and development.

Causes of fungal infection

The appearance of late blight in areas can be caused by:

Soils with excess liming promote the growth of fungi. Most summer residents are afraid of oxidation of the soil, so they try in every possible way to saturate it with lime, which becomes the most common cause of late blight.
Too dense plantings make it difficult to ventilate greenhouses and normal air access to plants in open areas. And a humid greenhouse environment is excellent for the life of fungal spores.
Sharp temperature fluctuations, which are relevant for the end of the summer season, when during hot daytime weather there are often quite cool nights. At this time, a lot of dew usually falls, becoming an additional favorable source of moisture for the development of black rot.
Weakened by ripening and growth, underfed tomatoes lose immunity to infection. A lack of useful elements (potassium, iodine, manganese) significantly increases the chances of late blight.

Prevention against infection

To prevent the disease from developing, it is necessary to prevent late blight on tomatoes and in the greenhouse. It consists of the following:

If there is an excess of lime in the soil, it is necessary to begin to restore the natural balance by adding peat and pouring sand into the holes.
You should adhere to the rules of crop rotation and plant tomatoes after crops such as beets, cucumbers, onions, cauliflower, carrots or turnips.
Planting of seedlings must be carried out in strict accordance with recommended planting patterns.
The ideal time to water a tomato is the morning, but if the period is very dry, you can do it in the evening, after sunset. In this case, a significant part of the water will have time to be absorbed into the soil. It is important to irrigate so that drops do not fall on the plant and fruits.
In greenhouse conditions it is convenient to use drip irrigation. For this purpose, special hoses are used (for example, Cellfast Drip). It can be connected to a container of warm water and gradually moisten the soil throughout the day.
It is important to remember to regularly ventilate the greenhouse and avoid large accumulations of condensation if the greenhouse is film-like.
If the air humidity is high, you may not need to water at all. Instead, it helps to loosen the soil between the rows.
The fight against late blight on tomatoes will be more effective if you systematically feed the plants with phosphorus, potassium and other solutions of beneficial microelements.

It is also important not to forget about preventative treatment. To do this, experienced gardeners recommend using active biological products, but they can be replaced (or alternated) with folk ones.

Treatment of tomatoes against late blight. Biologically active drugs

Before treating tomatoes against diseases, it is necessary to understand the cause of the infection, then eliminate this factor, and only then proceed to choosing a preventative agent.

Some gardeners recommend alternating different medications, because the disease adapts well when the same measures are taken annually. The first preventive spraying is best carried out immediately after planting the material. Common forest mushrooms become a convenient guide for determining the time of late blight activity: as soon as they appear, you need to carefully monitor the plants.

Protection of tomatoes from late blight is carried out with the following biologically active preparations:

Fitosporin. It is diluted according to the instructions. First, tomatoes are generously sprayed with the appearance of the very first ovary, and all further spraying is carried out every ten days of the month. This solution can also be poured directly into the holes in greenhouses before planting or added to water for irrigation.
Bordeaux mixture. A couple of tablespoons of copper sulfate (vitriol) are diluted into a 10-liter bucket of liquid for processing tomatoes shortly before flowering.
Trichopolum. Treating tomatoes against late blight with this antibiotic gives excellent results. 1 tablet dissolves in 1 liter of water to spray the bushes.

Ash is also used together with medications; it is an invaluable source of a whole list of important substances (sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium). Plants are dusted with it seven days after planting and the procedure is repeated at the moment the ovaries appear.

Prevention of late blight on tomatoes using folk methods perfectly prevents the appearance of black rot. Among the most famous is treating tomatoes with whey and iodine, but there are other equally effective remedies.

Garlic infusion with manganese. 100 g of crushed onions, arrows or leaves are infused in a glass of water for a day. This composition is filtered and diluted in 10 liters of water with the addition of 1 g of potassium permanganate. Treatment is carried out every 2 weeks.
Treatment of tomatoes with iodine against late blight is carried out with the addition of milk. Pour 1 liter of low-fat milk with 15 drops of iodine into a 10-liter container containing 9 liters of water. The optimal interval for spraying will be 10-15 days.
When choosing what to spray tomatoes against diseases, you should pay attention to a cheap and effective remedy: an infusion of hay or rotten straw. To prepare it, you need to infuse it in 10 liters of water for 4 days with a handful of urea. Used once every 1.5-2 weeks.
Table salt, diluted in 10 liters of liquid, is suitable for processing large, but still unripe fruits; it is necessary to observe a frequency of up to 1 time per month.
Whey, which is diluted in equal proportions with water and 1-2 drops of iodine are added. Experienced vegetable growers use this product to spray tomatoes every day, starting in July and ending with complete harvesting.

Before planting tomato seedlings in greenhouses, you must first carry out a thorough sanitation by removing accumulated cobwebs and dirt from the surfaces of roofs and walls (for the best effect, you need to wash the walls of greenhouses and greenhouses with a 1% manganese solution, you can add a little chlorine), as well as completely getting rid of from the remains of last year's plants.

To kill fungal spores that are widespread in the air, it will not hurt to fumigate the room with burning coals wrapped in fabric made of natural skin (lamb or cow). They are thrown into a metal bucket until completely burned out and all windows and doors are kept tightly closed.

The fight against late blight on tomatoes is known in all countries of the world. In some of them, it is customary to dust greenhouse beds with a mixture of tobacco dust (a couple of glasses) mixed with ash (for one bucket). Also, in addition to the products mentioned, they often use solutions “Shining”, “Fitosporin-M” or “Baikal EM-1”.

Bottom line

Late blight of tomatoes, which requires treatment annually, can be considered successful if you managed to get a high-quality harvest this season. Even if some fruits became covered with black spots and had to be burned, it’s okay. Next year you can try other remedies that may be more effective.

Late blight often affects tomatoes, and therefore it is important for gardeners to protect their tomatoes in the second half of summer. How to protect tomatoes from late blight, how to save diseased bushes? What drugs to use for late blight, and what folk remedies will help against the disease. How to treat tomatoes in a greenhouse to protect them from late blight?

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

What is late blight? Signs of illness

Late blight- this is a fungal disease, the spores of this fungus overwinter in the ground, but mainly spread in potato tubers, in which they safely survive the winter, and wake up with spring plantings.

Therefore, late blight first affects potatoes, and then the spores fly to tomatoes. Late blight begins with the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves, then they spread to the stems and fruits. The lower leaves are affected first. The spots can be of different shapes and sizes. At the beginning of the disease, there is a whitish coating on the leaves.

Fruits become diseased through the stalk. They may appear clean at first, but as they are stored they will also develop brown spots. This disease can destroy entire tomato plantings in a few days.

Photo of late blight on tomatoes

Is it possible to take seeds from diseased tomatoes?

It is important that disease spores can remain on dry seeds. Only after heating for two hours at a temperature of 45-50°C can you be sure that the seeds are disinfected. Therefore, if seeds are taken from a diseased fruit, they need to be specially processed.

Conditions for the development of late blight

In dry, hot weather, late blight infection of tomatoes is minimized. The spores of this fungus do not like sunlight and are inactive. But during periods of rain and fog, when air humidity rises, they “wake up” and begin their harmful effects. If it rains for more than two days, you can be sure that your tomatoes are already infected with late blight.

1.Usually late blight appears on tomatoes in August, after cold nights and foggy, damp mornings. But tomatoes can get sick earlier – in July. Favorable weather for the development of the disease is a temperature below +15°C and high humidity.

2.Dense plantings contribute to the appearance of late blight. Therefore, excess leaves need to be torn off to improve ventilation of the bushes.

3. Watering tomatoes over the leaves also helps them get sick. Therefore, late blight often appears in open ground after rainy, cold weather. It is worth watering the plants in the morning so that the moisture is well absorbed during the day and only at the root; the leaves should not be wetted.

4. Low temperatures are also a reason to prevent late blight in tomatoes.

If the weather is dry and sunny, then infection usually does not occur. The spores die in the sun.

The best treatment is disease prevention. We must try to avoid unfavorable conditions.

Other reasons for the development of late blight are:

abuse of nitrogen fertilizers;
lack of useful microelements copper, potassium, iodine, manganese in the soil;
The bushes are planted too densely.

How to save tomatoes from late blight - prevention

The first stage of prevention for the next summer's harvest begins in the fall, when the last harvest is harvested and the tops are pulled out. It must be removed from the garden and burned so that fungal spores do not infect young tomatoes a year later.
If there is excess lime in the soil, then you need to balance its composition by pouring sand into the holes.
Before planting, the soil must be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Tomatoes love dry weather. Strong humidity in warm weather, and even faster in cool weather, leads to disease. It starts from the lower leaves, where more moisture accumulates. You need to constantly check the lower leaves and if they begin to darken, remove them immediately.

As already mentioned, it is necessary to remove excess leaves and shoots from tomatoes. The lower leaves are removed constantly until the first ripening cluster. Yellowing and drying leaves are also picked off. It is important to create good ventilation for tomato plantings.

You can cover the top of the rows of tomatoes with film or covering material so that it hangs over the sides without touching the ground. This will ensure ventilation and the tomatoes will be protected from the cold night dew.

Prevention of late blight can be called complete mulching of the soil under planting tomatoes.

Late blight first affects potato plantings, so tomatoes should not be planted next to them. Also, a close relative of tomatoes and potatoes, eggplant, can also suffer from late blight and it is better not to plant it next to it.

In small areas, protection can be created from bush plants sown around the perimeter of the beds. For example: peas, string beans, corn.

A good preventative measure would be to spray the plantings and soil with biological preparations phytosporin and trichodermin even before the disease appears. They suppress the spread of diseases.

Photo of late blight on tomatoes

It is necessary to strengthen plants from a young age. Temper. It is enough to fertilize and feed (without fanaticism or excess, of course). Water with infusion of ash while the fruits are ripening. So that they are strong and strong, then it will be easier for them to fight diseases. But you should not feed nitrogen fertilizers (mullein, herbal infusions) in the second half of summer - this weakens the plants, they will get sick faster.

How to treat the soil after late blight

For prevention, water the soil with preparations. phytosporin And trichodermin. If there was a mass disease, then you need to burn all the diseased bushes and water the soil with a fungicide.

How to save tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse

In the greenhouse, tomatoes are well protected from late blight. Even if it's cold and damp outside, they have many benefits. The greenhouse creates its own climate, which can be regulated. Do not forget to ventilate, as well as about prevention. It is necessary to frequently ventilate greenhouses so that excess condensation does not accumulate and the humidity is normal.

Do not thicken the plantings.
Trim off shoots and excess leaves.
Tie up bushes.
Mulch the ground.

Also, to protect tomatoes in a greenhouse, do not plant potatoes and open ground tomatoes next to each other so that spores from them do not get into the greenhouse.

At the end of June, you need to spray the tomatoes in the greenhouse with the biological product phytosporin for prevention. Constantly cultivate the land under tomatoes with it.

In the greenhouse, it is also necessary to disinfect its entire structure and soil in the fall. You can do this in several ways:

remove the top layer of soil 20 cm and start new soil;
bury the stems of dill, marigold and calendula deep into the ground so that they rot, fertilize and heal it;
treat the entire surface of the greenhouse with solutions of phytosporin or copper sulfate.

What to do with late blight on tomatoes if it appears in a greenhouse?

You should not use preparations with copper - after all, there is always a ripening crop in the greenhouse. It is better to use traditional methods. The same infusions of garlic, onion or milk solution. They are described in folk recipes later in the article.

You can spray the tomatoes with just water and iodine. Take 10 ml of ordinary 5% iodine per bucket of water. Before use, you need to remove all yellowed and diseased leaves with dark spots. Spray the bushes and fruits completely. After 3 days, repeat the procedure.

To combat late blight in greenhouses, fumigation is used: a piece of natural animal skin or wool is placed in a container with hot coals, and all windows and doors are tightly closed. The smoke kills fungal spores and prevents them from multiplying further.

They also sprinkle the beds with ash after planting and a second time at the first ovary.

How to fight late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies

Garlic infusion

To prepare garlic infusion, take 200 grams of garlic (can be replaced with onions) and infuse it in a bucket of water for a day. After straining, diseased plants and tomatoes are sprayed. Repeat spraying every 2 weeks.

Milk solution or whey

Dilute milk in water (100 grams per liter) and spray the tomatoes. You can replace milk with kefir. Lactic acid bacteria prevent late blight from developing. You can add a few drops of iodine to milk water. Such spraying will not only help against late blight, but will also serve as fertilizer for your tomatoes. It is better to repeat every 2 weeks too.

You can spray tomatoes with a whey solution (diluted 1 to 1 with water) - the effect is the same as from a milk solution. This solution is good to use for prevention all summer. Without waiting for the disease to appear.

Salt solution

Popular wisdom also advises spraying tomato bushes with a solution of simple table salt (one glass per bucket of water). This solution protects tomatoes from various diseases; after drying, it forms a film on the fruit. After rains it is necessary to repeat spraying.

It is better to use all these methods to prevent the disease. If late blight is clearly visible on the bushes, then you will most likely have to use chemicals to combat it.

Treatment of late blight on tomatoes in open ground

Copper helps well against late blight. Copper preparations are used to combat and prevent the disease. Drugs used Hom, Polychom, Oxychom, they can be diluted directly in cold water in a watering can (according to the instructions).

You can make the solution yourself. Add a bar of laundry soap for adhesion and a bag of copper sulfate to a bucket of water. You can also treat the bushes with an infusion of wood ash.

If all folk remedies have been tried and do not help, then you have to use chemistry. There are a lot of different products in garden stores. The most effective ones are fungicides. Disease spores also adapt to different chemicals, so they will have to be alternated to have a different composition.

They must be used carefully. Only until the fruit begins to ripen. If the tomatoes are already starting to fill up, then chemicals cannot be used. Poison your harvest.

Chemical remedies are also not a panacea. They should be used starting from the seedling stage and the treatments should be repeated several times. Especially if the summer is rainy and cold.

By and large, there are no such varieties. All tomatoes are affected by late blight. Although in recent years, cherry varieties have been developed that can withstand late blight. Now many new F1 hybrids are appearing, which manufacturers position as resistant to late blight. These are hybrids such as:

Blizzard
Budenovka
Dragonfly
Parterre
Pink dwarf
Raisa
Caspar
Kostroma

Alpha,
Amur standard,
Valentina,
Explosion,
Parodist,
Marisha,
Sanka

Early varieties for greenhouses:

Sugar plum raspberry,
Mandarin duck,
golden brush,
Poznan,
meal,
Sweet bunch

Photo of Cherry variety in a greenhouse

How to preserve harvested tomatoes from late blight

You can save part of the harvest if the disease has already attacked the plantings. To do this, you need to warm the fruits in hot water. Pour 60°C water into a bowl and place the tomatoes in it. You need to keep them until warmed up, but not cook them. The hand usually tolerates this temperature a little. But it’s better to look at the thermometer and add hot water when cooling. Then the tomatoes are dried and sent to ripen.

Is it possible to eat tomatoes with late blight?

After this heating treatment, the late blight spores die and these tomatoes are completely edible. Well, you won’t even want to eat the diseased fruits - they are black. Green unripe tomatoes from diseased bushes can be used in winter salads and preparations.

Late blight on tomatoes. How to avoid: video

Now you know how to deal with late blight on tomatoes. And it is clear that the best treatment is prevention!

Sharp temperature fluctuations and high humidity in the second half of summer contribute to the spread of fungal diseases on tomatoes, including late blight. Not all gardeners want to treat their greenhouse crops with chemicals. Late blight on tomatoes can be combated with folk remedies that are safe and effective.

Manifestation of disease on tomatoes

Late blight is one of the most common and dangerous diseases of tomatoes both in open ground and in greenhouses. It is very difficult to completely avoid the appearance of fungus. The spores of the pathogen are found in the soil and actively reproduce when favorable conditions occur. Reasons for appearance in the greenhouse:

differences in night and day temperatures;
dense plantings, excessive leaves;
high humidity, violation of the ventilation regime in the greenhouse;
excess nitrogen in the soil with insufficient amounts of potassium, manganese and phosphorus.

Important! If late blight appears on the site, its spores can enter the greenhouse through gardening tools or on the gardener’s soles.

First, late blight affects the stem and leaves of tomatoes, then spreads to the fruits. The disease can be recognized by the characteristic brown spots along the edges of the leaf blade. Infected areas quickly increase in size, which leads to the death of leaves. A gray coating appears on the stems of tomatoes.

High humidity in the greenhouse provokes the rapid proliferation of fungal diseases. Late blight spreads to tomatoes. Dark, sunken spots appear on tomatoes. The pulp turns black and begins to rot. Without the use of special means, the disease destroys bushes in 1-2 weeks. Protection against late blight using folk remedies helps prevent crop destruction.

Traditional methods and recipes

Chemicals can be used to combat a dangerous disease. The disadvantage of this method is that harmful substances accumulate in the fruits. Folk remedies for late blight on tomatoes allow you to preserve the harvest without harm to humans. Recipes based on natural ingredients - effective protection without the use of chemicals. Treatment of late blight in a greenhouse may not be necessary if the disease is prevented using folk recipes.

Infusion of garlic with potassium permanganate

Phytoncides contained in garlic kill late blight spores. In combination with the disinfecting properties of potassium permanganate, garlic infusion becomes an effective remedy that fights fungal disease on tomatoes. There are several recipes intended for the prevention and treatment of disease in a greenhouse.

150 g of garlic cloves and stems are chopped in a meat grinder or by hand;
the mass is poured into a glass of water and infused for 24 hours;
1 g of potassium permanganate dissolves in 10 liters of water;
Garlic infusion is added and the mixture is thoroughly mixed.

The resulting product is applied to the plantings at the rate of 0.5 liters per tomato bush. Treatment begins from the moment the ovaries form and is repeated every 1.5-2 weeks.

Garlic with manganese is used to spray the above-ground parts of tomatoes. This method prevents the strengthening of spores on the shoots and fruits of the crop. The recipe is slightly different:

200 g of garlic cloves are passed through a press;
2 g of manganese are diluted in 5 liters of water;
add chopped garlic, mix;
let it brew for 2 hours.

The solution is poured into a spray bottle and sprayed over the entire surface of the shoots. The product has proven its effectiveness for the prevention of late blight. The solution is less effective as a treatment for fungal diseases in tomatoes.

Dairy

One of the most common means for preventing the disease is solutions based on dairy products. They create a protective film on the tops and fruits, which makes it difficult for spores to penetrate healthy tissues of the crop. The microflora created by lactic bacteria repels late blight from planting in the greenhouse.

There are several recipes for preparing the working solution. Whey, kefir or low-fat milk is used as a base. A liter of water is mixed with the selected product in a 1:1 ratio, allowed to brew a little and the above-ground part of the tomatoes is thoroughly sprayed with a spray bottle. The beds are treated with the solution every 2-3 days. The antifungal effect does not last long, so it is recommended to use milk tincture more often than other products.

It is necessary to spray tomato shoots not only from the front side, but also from the back. First of all, the spores strengthen on the lower part of the leaf.

Yeast

The folk remedy is often used to feed tomatoes. Yeast stimulates shoot growth and strengthens the plant's defenses. An additional effect of spraying is the prevention of late blight and other fungal diseases. The beneficial bacteria that make up yeast suppress pathogenic spores, providing protection against the spread of late blight. The solution is prepared as follows:

heat 3 liters of water in a bucket to 30 °C;
add 10 g of yeast (powder) and 3-5 tablespoons of granulated sugar;
allow to ferment in a warm place for 5 hours;
add 7 liters of water and mix.

You should start spraying the shoots immediately after preparing the working solution. Tomatoes will need a repeat procedure after 2 weeks. Yeast tincture can be used as a root treatment. Liquid consumption is 1 liter per bush.

Horsetail

Silicic acid contained in horsetail shoots increases the resistance of tomatoes to fungal diseases and helps fight late blight. For infusion, it is recommended to collect the herb in the second half of summer. During this period, the maximum amount of useful substances accumulates in the horsetail tissues.

The folk remedy is safe for tomatoes and humans. You can use the green decoction for a long time without the risk of harming the plantings. The spray solution is prepared according to a simple scheme:

take 1 kg of green horsetail mass per bucket of water;
the mixture is infused for 12 hours;
boil for 1 hour, cool to room temperature;
the resulting concentrate is filtered through cheesecloth;
diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5.

A working solution based on horsetail decoction is used for preventive spraying of beds once every 2 weeks. If late blight is detected in a greenhouse, it is recommended to use a folk remedy every 2 days until the disease completely disappears. Gardeners note that spraying with horsetail decoction gives the greatest benefit in the daytime.

Good to know: brilliant green, familiar from childhood, is used as a remedy for the treatment and prevention of late blight. It is enough to dissolve 40 drops of the drug in a bucket of water and spray the bushes.

Wood tinder

Mushroom tincture helps prevent the appearance of late blight in the greenhouse. The wood tinder fungus has a disinfecting effect on beds with tomatoes. The decoction should be used during the formation of ovaries, before signs of the disease appear. The folk remedy is prepared from 100 g of crushed dry mushroom brewed with 1 liter of boiling water under a lid. After cooling, the liquid is filtered and the shoots are processed over the entire surface. Repeated spraying is carried out after 10 days.

Saline solution

Spraying with salt water is not a treatment for late blight. The plaque formed on the shoots only partially prevents the growth of the fungus. The main purpose of treating tomatoes with salt water is to speed up the ripening of the fruit. After spraying, the stems begin to shed diseased foliage, allowing the plant to save energy.

To prepare the product, use 200 g of table salt dissolved in 10 liters of water. Only bushes affected by late blight should be sprayed. This procedure is harmful to healthy plants.

Baking soda can be used as a substitute for late blight. Concentration per 1 bucket – 2 tbsp. l. It is advisable to add a spoonful of liquid soap, so the composition will better adhere to the shoots.

Ash solution

Wood ash is a powerful means of strengthening the immunity of tomatoes and effectively protecting the crop from many fungal diseases. It is recommended to add powder to the soil when planting tomatoes in a greenhouse. This will not only enrich the soil with useful substances, but also create additional protection against late blight.

To spray shoots in the second half of summer, use a product based on wood ash, iodine and boric acid. Preventive treatment of tomatoes against late blight begins from the moment fruit sets. The frequency of spraying depends on weather conditions; during periods of high humidity or sudden temperature changes, it is advisable to use the ash product once every 10 days. Recipe:

1 kg of ash is poured into 5 liters of boiling water and cooled to room temperature;
add 5 ml of boric acid and 5 drops of iodine;
mix the components thoroughly and leave for 24 hours;
the resulting mixture is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and used for spraying.

Wood ash quickly settles to the bottom, so the liquid should be shaken periodically with a wooden stick during infusion.

Prevention measures

Treatment of late blight is a rather labor-intensive process that does not always lead to the eradication of the disease. The fungus destroys a significant portion of the crop within a short period of time. Chemicals can stop the spread of spores, but at the same time they negatively affect the composition of vegetables. Folk remedies are more effective in preventing disease than in treating it.

Traditional preventive measures reduce the risk of late blight in the greenhouse until the tomatoes ripen. To protect plantings, it is recommended to carry out a set of measures:

choose for cultivation varieties with high immunity to fungal diseases;
treat planting material in a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
follow the rules of crop rotation in closed ground;
plant bushes in accordance with the recommended scheme, avoiding thickening;
promptly remove the lower tiers of leaves after the formation of the first ovaries;
ventilate the greenhouse, especially during the rainy season;
treat the soil and tomatoes against late blight with folk remedies several times a season.

Many gardeners practice treating tomatoes in greenhouses with popular antifungal drugs. Plantings are watered with Trichodermin and Fitosporin according to the instructions.

Compliance with agrotechnical practices and preventive treatment of tomatoes with folk remedies help prevent the appearance of late blight in the greenhouse. The disease often affects weakened plants, so it is important to take care of adequate nutrition of the crop and create favorable growth conditions.