Destruction of fungus and mold on wood. Professional struggle with mold. Video "The choice of antiseptic."
Wood is a natural natural material widely used in the construction and everyday life of a person. The wood is durable and beautiful until the representatives of microflora - mold mushrooms and other undesirable aliens of this kind - settle on its surface. To prevent or eliminate such a phenomenon, the surface of wooden structures and products is treated with different compositions of natural and industrial origin.
It is dangerous for its rapid growth and spread, as well as for low moisture requirements. Water appears in tiny drops on the torso and moistens the nutrient substrate - wood. The woodpecker creates flat, soft perennials sewn to the base. Vertebrae have different sizes. Ferret's edge is white, the internal parts are colored depending on the age of the fruitful orange to rusty brown from mature spores.
The rhizomorphs can form rosettes of a wood mill, which are threads up to a few mm from brown to grayish, after drying they are brittle. Using the rhizomorph, the sponge can spread over long distances and grow or multiply by other materials than wood. From a practical point of view, it should be noted that the rhizomorphs of loggers can develop, in particular, by masonry. Thus, the sponge can spread relatively quickly throughout the building in buildings from the original flash.
Causal relationships: why does mold appear on wood
Reproduction of fungi on the surface of wooden products is the main enemy of the material. Under what conditions is their appearance:
- High humidity contributes to the awakening and development of sleeping contagion spores, in the aftermath - the destruction of the structure of wood;
- Standing air in the absence of ventilation;
- Sharp changes in temperature and as a consequence - the formation of condensation on the surface followed by the implementation of paragraph 1;
- Freezing of moist wood leads to a deep penetration of harmful spores.
Woody worm causes brown decay of wood. The wood is originally light, later yellow-brown to dark brown. In the advanced attack phase, the wood cracks in the longitudinal and transverse directions, and the wood is divided into cubes, and the cubes are relatively large.
For its development, this sponge requires a high moisture content in the wood, so we usually encounter it in dwellings in damp rooms. Perennials are very thin, they can be easily cleaned. They have a cobweb white border, otherwise they are yellowish, ocher, from dark to dark brown.
Where does the mold come from?
- It is found on the tree bark and does not develop during its life because of woody immunity;
- When products come into contact with the ground;
- Airborne infection.
Preliminary protection reduces the risk of infection:
- Black mold has many strains, which can not be distinguished independently. To the general characteristics of the species we attribute excessive activity, the ability to rapidly destroy and damage the affected material.
Compared with thermal changes, it is more durable than woodcutters. Coniferous species of the cellar also cause brown decay of wood, but the symptoms are somewhat different from loggers. Threatened wood is usually damp, originally dyed yellowish brown, then dark brown. In the advanced phase of the attack, a cubic decomposition takes place, but the cubes are small, unlike the forests. At the final stage of decomposition, wood can be ground into dust.
Plums are white in youth, then dark gray-yellow, they can easily peel off. The shape and size of the puppies are different, at a younger age the puppies are soft, later leather. The superficial mycelium is white, woolen and can also be made from thin white ropes. Filaments are thinner than wood, forever white even in old age and after drying they are not fragile.
Represents a serious danger to humans: spores when inhaled cause allergic reactions, irritation, poisoning. To get rid of it, modern methods of influence will be needed - the species is very resistant to various influences.
Outer curved
The requirements for humidity and temperature are also similar. Also, the decomposition of wood occurs in a similar manner, the fungus is caused by brown rot, the wood is usually dry. Characteristically, the wood trembles at an advanced stage of decomposition. Fruits have a variety of shapes, usually they are cantilevered, sideways. The surface of the hat is approximately dense, roundish, yellowish brown to rusty brown. On the lower side in his youth - dense, branched lamellas, orange, then dark brown.
In addition to resistance to extreme climatic conditions, the beams are especially dangerous, because they are a typical sponge substrate, that is, rot begins to develop in the interior parts of the wood. Although the interior parts of the wood are often completely destroyed, the thin surface layer remains unchanged for a long time.
Methods of struggle
No matter how you ventilate the room, the risk of mold formation on the walls and floors is always present. To accurately exclude it, there are many methods and means of natural and synthetic.
Folk remedies
Known from ancient times, folk ways of fighting against tree damage are sparing and effective, but for a short time.
The beam also causes brown decay of the wood. The tree gradually darkens to a reddish-brown. It quickly loses its strength, it becomes fragile, it breaks easily, the career is smooth and shiny. At an advanced stage of decay, the wood splits, and the cubes are larger than the chopper, but smaller than the woods.
Beads with beads, beams
Both these fungi are closely related to beetles and have similar characteristics and characteristics, such as these fungi. The only significant difference is in puppies. Eagle beetles are opaque, smooth and smooth. The above types of fungi are the most common and cause the greatest damage to the built-in wooden structures, in buildings. In buildings, there are rarely other types of wood-borer fungi, which are interesting because they cause white rot, scaly dwarf, cellars and others.
Method 1: Resin
Against the spores of fungi in the house helps the usual resin, heated before application.
- Effectively;
- safely;
- cheap.
- The surface remains sticky;
- Resin is viscous, it is difficult to apply - it needs to be stretched.
Method 2. Silicate glue
Folk remedy for prophylaxis - diluted to the state of medium-stringency ordinary silicate glue. They handle the surface of wooden products and coatings 1-2 times.
Damage to woodworms is attacked either by living wood, or wood, stored or processed wood. Most species of wood-destroying insects use wood as food, others serve as a medium for the growth and development of larvae. Wind insects are divided into several families, of which built-in wooden structures in buildings represent the greatest danger of wormwood and carpenters. Other listed families attack mainly live or stored - mostly untreated wood.
Insects made from wood worms have significantly less moisture than wood spongy mushrooms. Representatives of this family of beetles are closely related to the living forest. Their larvae develop in trunks and branches of various tree species. The size of our bark beetles varies from 1 to 8 mm. Body cylindrical, oval or short oval. Body color is usually dark brown, black-brown or black-gray. Larvae of bark beetles are mostly white, some of them slightly pinkish. On the head there are several short, but powerful parts, the antennas consist of one short article.
Plus: a safe hypoallergenic composition.
Less: a short-term effect, not suitable for some types of mold.
Method 3: Potassium bichromate
5% solution of potassium bichromate and 5% sulfuric acid concentrate are mixed in equal proportions. These reagents can be bought in any store or in a factory for the production and sale of chemicals and fertilizers, sometimes at garden fairs.
The cycle of development of larvae lasts an average of two months. During their development, the larvae will experience corridors under the bark, which are typical and resistant to each species, so most species can be identified according to the fires. The shape of adult beetles is cylindrical. The female has a head, and the chest is predominantly black, the butt is yellowish, the middle ones are violet-black. The body ends with a relatively long cup.
The larvae are cylindrical, whitish-colored, evolving from eggs, which females place mainly under the bark of freshly cut unlocked trunks or wounded trees. The larvae first thaw in soft summer wood, then penetrate into the chest. Later, the corridors return to the surface and end with a cocoon cocoon. Adult beetles are round and large with a diameter of 4-5 mm.
The resulting solution is processed boards and adjacent to the construction of the ground. The method is effective, but dangerous for the soil.
Method 4: Vinegar and soda
To get rid of the already existing focus, sprinkle the place with soda and sprinkle it with 9 or 6% acetic acid from the atomizer, you can just gently pour out. A violent oxidative reaction burns all formed fungal colonies.
Beetles have a size of 3-5 mm, brown, the body is elongated. They crashed into the wounded trees and into fresh, recently defeated wood, and also from wood. This is especially harmful for oak. The larvae penetrate the thin corridors in the forest, mostly white. The most famous deputy is the humpbacked parquet.
Wood pests on buildings, wooden structures, furniture and museum exhibits
Worms have an elongated cylindrical, less often oval, flattened body. They are smaller or medium sized beetles. Antennas have 8-11 articulated, serrated, combed. Dyeing of the body is most often dark brown or reddish. The larvae are white with bumps bent.
Method 5: Salt, acid and boiling water
We prepare the solution: 5 liters of hot boiled water + 1 kg of table salt + 50 g of boric acid from the pharmacy. Thoroughly mix and process the tree.
Nervous Striped
The most common cases, and the greatest damage is caused by two types of worm eyes, and the worm dies. This is mainly coniferous wood, less deciduous. Adult beetles large 3-4 mm. The body is cylindrical, the front part of the shield is so strongly overlapped on the head that it is barely noticeable. It is monochrome brown to black, only the legs and antenna are somewhat lighter. Crocodiles are lengthened with 10 dashed grooves, hence their name.
This occurs mainly in residential buildings, but also lives in the wild. Adult mistakes fly out of the tree in June and July. They live only for a short time and do not eat food all their life. After fertilization, the female lays eggs in cracks and forests, mainly in the wood, where the previous generation hatched.
Impregnation helps to fight many kinds of fungi and mold.
Method 6. Copper sulfate
Means are in stock for many gardeners.
Take 100 g of dry matter and dilute it in 10 liters of water. The solution should be processed boards, then dried them and used for construction.
Crocodiles behind larvae are strongly clogged with feces mixed with wood pulp. After development, the larvae snap close to the outer surface of the tree, just below the surface. Outlets for adult beetles are usually circular with a diameter of min. The development cycle lasts from 6 months to 2 years, depending on the temperature, humidity and type of wood.
Damage to the worm results in complete destruction of the object or structure of the wood, and in a large number of larval corridors, the wood turns into a dusty pulp called a wormhole. This is mainly due to the fact that several generations of wood have been developing.
Method 7: Whiteness
Chlorine bleach cleans the fungus well, but it is worth considering that the liquid brightens the wood.
In baths and saunas, it is possible to remove fungi only by folk remedies. To cure the affected area, clean the boards of the fungus with soda, pour it with vinegar, wait for the end of the reaction. Then rinse the reagents with water and cover the area with tea tree oil, diluted in warm water.
Active infection with worms is manifested in the presence of yellow loose sawdust in the corridors of the larvae and under the holes in the forest. The presence of a wormhole is also recognized by a sound that resembles the thin ticking of a clock. On the other hand, in the case of an older, inactive attack, the larvae are lacustrine-brown and more complete or fully glued.
Nervousness will die
Adult beetles are somewhat larger than woolen striped mm. The whole body is black-brown with yellow-yellow spots on the shield. Otherwise, the wormhole dies like a striped wormhole. Adult beetles fly out of the tree mainly in May and June. The development of larvae is similar to the development of worms, but lasts longer - usually 2-3 years, depending on the temperature, humidity and type of wood.
As already mentioned, folk remedies are not always effective and safe. They are used when there are no special means at hand, and the problem needs to be solved in a short time. For a thorough approach, modern means of protection are used.
Outcomes of adult beetles are also round, but larger than the diameter of the striped worm 2, 5-3 mm. Nervous Dead will attack the forest that was built in buildings for several years. This is the most important technical pest of wood that attacks built-in wooden structures.
The beak has a flat black body up to 25 mm long. There are two glossy spots on the shield. Head rather pronounced, more or less dense. Unlike other beetles, she has relatively short ankles, which do not exceed half her body. The beads are slightly curved, gradually narrowing towards the end. The female has a shield much wider than the male, but is slightly smaller and has shorter ankles. It also depends on the calf placed on the buttock.
Modern compositions
Fighting unwanted neighbors on walls, floors and ceilings using modern methods of protection is the most effective, durable and reliable.
All drugs are divided into 3 groups according to the method of application and action:
- Paints with opaque or translucent effect;
- Lucky;
- Antiseptics.
Paints and varnishes when used in the house perform two functions at once: they help remove the mold and participate in the finish. They create a water repellent coating that protects the tree for a long time.
Adult beetles occur from May to September. Eggs lay in the cracks of the tree. During the development of larvae, the wood sprouts, and the corridors fill the supply and feces. Larvae mainly scatter the surface layers of wood, but with a more intense attack they are forced to twist deeper and, thus, break the main wood.
The development cycle is very different in length depending on the type of wood, ambient temperature, wood moisture and other factors. Larvae in the main tree develop much more slowly than in the white forest, due to its chemical composition. Development time ranges from 2 to 10 years, usually lasts 3-4 years.
Treatment with antiseptics is the main way to fight against the settling of fungi. It can be superficial or deep.
- Surface treatment of boards is carried out directly in the house during construction or repair work. Sometimes suppliers of lumber provide already processed material in this way.
- Deep impregnation by the method of conservation allows you to remove all spores from the surface of the product and to the depth. Penetration of chemical compounds occurs under autoclave conditions with changing temperatures.
Varieties of antiseptics
Synthetic means against wood fungus are distinguished by the composition and effect of the action:
To prevent the emergence or dispose of the existing fungus in the house, it is necessary to choose the right composition of an effective antiseptic or protective coating. When choosing it is worth considering:
- Humidity of the room;
- Presence of contact with the earth;
- Air temperature;
- Operating conditions of the product and its surface.
The home climate is well tolerated by soluble or water-repellent solutions, in dry rooms it is possible to confine oneself to the use of paint and varnish coatings. For the street should choose more stringent means.
Carrying out work
Fungus on the tree can be prevented or removed.
Preliminary protection
To create a protective layer on a new product, during manufacture or before construction, the wooden object is covered with varnishes, paints, surface antiseptics. Application is carried out on a dry, clean surface. Wait until drying and, if necessary, repeat the operation. Application is carried out:
- Brushes;
- Rollers;
- Sprays.
Treatment of wood
To destroy the existing fungus, it is not necessary to dismantle the product. If the mold has not grown and has not managed to spoil the structure of the wood, it is enough to conduct a complex of medical works:
- Clean the affected area with a spatula, brush. We must protect our hands with gloves.
- Overlap the surface with deep penetration formulations or soak with antiseptic.
- Apply the finish coat.
After using synthetic drugs, the lesion does not resume. As a rule, chemicals kill all available on the surface of the tree microflora.
You will need
- • Bleach for wood.
- • Biosecurity for wood.
- • Perhaps a plane.
Instructions
Wood, which is affected by the fungus, it is desirable to pre-plan the plane.
But if you do not have such an opportunity (for example, if the boards are already built inside the house) or the fungus is not strong, then you can skip this step.
Further process boards any wood bleach that you will find in construction stores.
Depending on the tool, you have to process two or three times, read the instructions on the packaging. If the defeat is not strong, it is enough and one time.
After this, it is necessary to allow the board to dry for at least a couple of hours, and preferably a few days.
When the board is sufficiently dry, it is worthwhile to treat it with a biosecurity agent. The choice of such funds is also rich, in any store or forum you will receive description each of them.
And again the tree will have to be dried. Only after this it is possible to put it or finish it.
Drying boards can take from one day to a month. It depends on many factors:
- at what time of year the treatment is carried out (in the summer when the warm air is accessed, the board dries faster);
- what moisture the board was originally (if dry, then it will give off a new moisture quickly);
- on the street you dry or indoors, if the second option, you need to take care that the room itself is dry and preferably warm.
As a result of a close occurrence of groundwater or when falling into the cellar moisture from melting snow, rain, with poor ventilation and so on, appear on the walls and ceiling fungus and mold. Their intensive reproduction is promoted by dampness. Neighborhood of the fungus in the cellar is undesirable, because it gradually destroys the wood, and can also cause spoilage of the products. There are several ways to deal with it.
You will need
- - means "Whiteness";
- - salt;
- - boric acid;
- - slaked lime;
- - vodka;
- - bitumen;
- - roofing felt;
- - crushed stone;
- - bricks;
- - sulfuric saber;
- - blowtorch.
Instructions
Prevent the appearance of fungus in the cellar is much easier than fight with him. So arrange in the cellar waterproofing. To do this, deepen the cellar, fill the small gravel with a layer of 2 cm, and lay on it the same layer of bitumen. At bitumen, put a roofing felt and fill it with a layer of concrete with expanded clay. The walls can be bricked. Be sure to make a vent.
If the fungus is still there, try to get rid of it with the help of ordinary bleach. To do this, dilute the product "Whiteness" with water in equal proportions. Treat the area with the fungus. At the same time, protect your hands with rubber gloves.
Treat walls and wooden shelves with a mixture of table salt and boric acid. Make a solution of 5 liters of water, 1 kg of salt and 50 g of dry boric acid.
Spray the walls and floor cellar vodka and wipe it with racks. Also, in the fall, before using the cellar, burn the wooden surfaces with a blowtorch.
Sprinkle salt on the floor with a thick layer, and wipe the walls and shelves with brine. This will prevent the fungus from developing.
Spread a powder of white moss on the cellar. It drains the air and does not allow the fungus to develop. Also reduces air humidity hydrated lime. Put in a cellar a box or a bucket filled with slaked lime.
Empty cellar can first be treated from the fungus with a solution of salt, "whiteness" or vodka. And then fumigated. To do this, light a sulfur checker. But it is important that poisonous sulfur dioxide does not get into the living quarters, so this method is suitable only for cellars that are away from home.
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