We are building a garden shed with our own hands. Construction of a utility block with your own hands Build a barn at the dacha with your own hands step by step
A barn is a mandatory building on a plot of land. Initially, it serves to store working tools in it, which are needed for installing a more serious structure. The photo shows how to install a shed for a summer house, which later becomes an excellent part of landscape design.
Even initially, such a building was used as a relaxation room, where it was possible to relax on a hot day. When the barn has served its intended purpose, it is left to serve as a storage room or, as a result of a good modernization, it is used as alternative housing. The photo shows how an ordinary garden shed turns into a harmonious element of the landscape.
Several options for a garden shed
There are several ways to choose a space in which to put a shed. Of course, the right solution would be to hide it from prying eyes by building it behind the house or behind a high fence. It is best to consider this building from a practical point of view, installing a shed near the place where it may actually be needed.
Ready container shed
This is one of the easiest ways to purchase a finished structure. This shed is made on the basis of a metal frame, where there is insulation inside the casing and electrical wiring is laid. There are several types of ready-made buildings; some of them already have a shower, toilet and rest area.
It can be placed using a crane on concrete blocks or piles. If there is a need to supply water, then this should not be difficult since you can easily do it yourself.
After using the container, it is easy to sell it without unnecessary difficulties, since this structure is not real estate.
Barn made of slab
This is the cheapest way to build a shed with your own hands, especially since its construction does not require a foundation. To protect the shed from moisture, place it on a flat surface.
A timber is used as a base, then it is covered with a slab. To make the barn more attractive, climbing plants are planted around its perimeter. Regular painting will extend the life of such a structure.
It will not be possible to operate this barn for a long time - a maximum of 5 years, and then it is better to build something more reliable. This option is very budget-friendly, but it cannot exactly be called durable.
Frame barn
This method allows you to quickly assemble the structure. In addition, this option is considered a budget option, and in order for the structure to be reliable, it is made of strong logs.
One of the advantages of such a structure is that over time you can easily replace the skin and finish everything with a completely different material. The roof is also being replaced with a gable roof.
In the future, you can use tiles instead of roofing felt. After which the frame barn will acquire attractive features and will become a beautiful addition to the existing buildings. This building is installed on piles.
Foam block shed
This is a good alternative to build a shed that will last for many years and at little cost. This option does not need additional insulation, because the structure made of this material has good thermal insulation properties. If you cover it with siding or other expensive material, then such a barn will take on a very solid appearance.
Brick barn
This is the most reliable option among all the others. And it can withstand even a severe fire. In such a barn it is good to raise any livestock from poultry to cattle. As a rule, such a structure is built from bricks after the main dwelling has been installed.
This building is in perfect harmony with all elements of landscape design. It is difficult to organize such a structure, and the resulting costs will be high, but the advantages ultimately outweigh it. The main factor is that such a shed will last for many years.
DIY barn
The most common option is to install a frame shed. Now in more detail about how to build a wooden shed in the country or near your home. Initially, all parameters are taken into account and measurements are taken at the place where the shed is installed. It can be installed on a regular foundation, and piles will also be appropriate.
It is necessary to place asbestos pipes in the corners of the selected area, and where the walls join, after which they are filled with a cement mixture. After pouring, the solution must be allowed to harden, so it is left for a couple of weeks.
In order for the piles to serve for a long time, they need to be impregnated with mastic, this will give them additional protection from water and insects.
Frame installation
At the very beginning, the wooden beam, which is the basis of the building, is treated with special means to prevent the wood from being damaged. The beam is mounted into a ready-made foundation using roofing felt as a spacer between the concrete product and the wooden post. It is best to lay the floor right away; this will make it possible to better install the vertical racks.
The pillars are attached below, taking into account how many corners there will be, as well as openings. Before firmly fixing them, you need to make sure that the racks are distributed vertically. When the racks are secured, the top frame is installed on them, this will be the upper part of the frame. Just before this you need to make cuts on the sides and in the middle. All elements are connected using metal corners and self-tapping screws.
Roof installation
To install a pitched roof, you need to calculate the size of the racks so that on one side they are longer, this will make it possible to create the correct slope, which in turn will allow precipitation to flow to one side.
The load-bearing base of the roof should be made of boards 40 mm thick. It is important that the rafters are 50-60 cm longer than the base of the building. The boards are located at intervals of 0.5 cm from each other.
At the junction of the rafters with the timber, cuttings are made, and after installation, this structure is fastened with self-tapping screws. The finished frame is sheathed with 25x150 mm boards. Roofing felt is placed on the roof. But it’s better not to limit yourself to roofing felt and for even greater strength and solidity you need to lay corrugated sheets on the roof; you can use tiles for these purposes.
The building is sheathed first from the front, and then from the sides and back. Of course, it is best to sand the outside of the cladding boards with a sanding machine. Then the building will not only have a solid appearance, but will also allow precipitation to easily flow down without saturating the wooden surface.
Photo of a do-it-yourself shed
It just so happens that the barn is associated exclusively with the habitat of livestock - from cows and horses to chickens and turkeys. In such a room there must be a place for animals to rest, a feeding and activity area. The building must be warm, environmentally friendly and safe, so that the living creatures inside are comfortable and calm. To create a shed, a wooden plank is best suited. The building is placed on the ground without a foundation. In this case it is not necessary.
Advantages and disadvantages of plank construction without a foundation
Experienced farmers advise creating sheds from wooden planks and installing them directly on the ground, without building a foundation. The advantages of such structures are as follows:
- saving time - they can be erected quickly (in just a few days);
- saving money - without a foundation, the structure will cost 2 times less;
- saving effort - it is obvious that erecting a structure without a foundation requires less effort on the part of the builder.
In addition, the barn itself turns out to be quite light and stable.
To build a shed without a foundation, choose wooden boards - they are quite light, but durable
However, such buildings also have disadvantages:
- the need for mandatory additional insulation of the floor so that the animals inside do not freeze;
- the need for external and internal waterproofing of walls and floors so that water from the soil does not destroy wooden boards;
- fragility of the structure (a barn will last about 20 years, whereas with a foundation it will last about 50);
- the need for careful preparation of the area where the shed will be installed.
If such problems do not scare you, then you can safely start building a shed from wooden planks without a foundation.
Wooden boards are a durable and reliable material and are relatively inexpensive. That is why they do not lose their popularity and relevance, despite the abundance of modern innovative materials.
A wooden shed without a foundation will last a maximum of 20 years, then it will begin to quickly collapse
In what cases is it rational to use
When a barn is built to last, it must be installed on a foundation. If there is no need for long-term operation of the building or the structure is to be moved from one place to another, then the foundation is not poured.
There is no need for a foundation if you live in warm regions where there are no harsh winters and little rainfall throughout the year.
Residents of warm regions with low average annual precipitation can afford to build a shed without a foundation.
Cheapness is another important feature of a shed without a foundation. If funds are limited, you can build a structure without a foundation and install it directly on the ground.
Preparation for construction
Before you begin the process of constructing a shed from wooden planks, you need to decide on the design of the room, prepare all the necessary tools and materials, choose insulation and waterproofing.
A barn made of wooden planks without a foundation can only be one-story. Otherwise, the earth will not stand it and will begin to sag, the structure will gradually sink into the soil, the walls and floor will begin to collapse. This is dangerous for animals and humans.
A barn without a foundation can only be one-story: the more floors, the heavier the structure; it will quickly sink into the ground
The height of the building walls should not exceed three meters, and the total area should not be more than 20 m2. Otherwise, the structure will turn out to be very large, the earth simply will not support such weight.
In any case, the barn made of wooden boards will be frame. This means that initially they build a “skeleton” - a base, then it is lined with boards, insulation, waterproofing and finishing.
Drawings of plank sheds
To build a shed, you need a drawing. It is better to choose the simplest design. It will be easier to build such a structure alone.
By strictly following the drawing, a barn can be built in a couple of days alone
The barn can be made square or rectangular depending on the personal preferences of the owner. But an elongated structure that is too narrow is inconvenient to use; the animals inside will be too cramped.
Using a simple drawing you can create a comfortable and cozy barn for livestock
Selection of material and calculation of boards
The main material for building a shed without a foundation is wooden boards. Oak, spruce and pine trees are suitable for agricultural purposes. It is worth choosing such tree species because they:
- smell nice;
- do not absorb unpleasant odors;
- are durable;
- resistant to mold formation.
To build a frame base, choose oak wooden blocks with a square or rectangular cross-section (100×100 or 60×100 millimeters).
For construction, choose only bars with a cross-section of 100X100 mm or 60X100 mm, others will not work
- To create a frame, place 4 identical bars at the corners of the future structure. The length of each “stick” is 3 meters 20 centimeters (provided that the height of the barn is 3 meters, 20 centimeters will be buried in the ground to ensure the stability of the entire structure).
- Vertical bars are connected to each other by horizontal ones. And not only on the walls, but also on the floor and ceiling. The distance between parallel bars is 50 centimeters.
- The frame is sheathed with wooden boards on the outside and inside (entirely, including the floor and ceiling). The planks should fit snugly against each other without forming gaps.
Based on such features, calculations are made. To erect a building with an area of 20 square meters with three-meter walls, you will need the following number of boards and bars:
- 210 meters of timber (70 timber, 3 meters each);
- 188 square meters of wooden plank.
An example of calculating the required number of wooden boards
To calculate how much material will be required for the construction of a building, you need to know the exact dimensions of the future room. If the structure is three meters high, 5 meters long, and 4 meters wide, then counting the number of boards is easy. You need to find out the total area of all surfaces of the building (including the floor and ceiling). To do this, first multiply the length of the building by the height (5 * 3). We get the area of one wall, the same area of the parallel wall. The area of the other two walls is equal to the product of the height and the width of the barn, multiplied by two (4 * 3 * 2). The floor and ceiling have equal area. We calculate them by multiplying the length by the width (5 * 4). Now we sum up all the received numbers (5*3*2+4*3*2+5*4*2). We carry out the cladding outside and inside. This means that we multiply the resulting value (94) by 2.
What is best for insulation?
The shed definitely needs to be insulated. Otherwise, the animals will not be able to stay inside in the winter. It will be damp and cold for them to sleep on the floor. In such conditions, livestock will quickly become ill and begin to die.
Suitable materials for insulation include:
- wool (mineral, stone, glass);
- ecowool;
- polyurethane foam.
Cotton wool is the cheapest insulation material, but it quickly absorbs moisture and sags. It is recommended to use it in conditions of austerity. Glass wool can be hazardous to livestock. If it gets on the skin or mucous membranes of an animal or bird, it can be fatal. It is better to choose mineral or stone.
Ecowool is more expensive than ordinary mineral or stone wool, but is considered an environmentally friendly and moisture-resistant material. Reliably retains heat indoors.
Polyurethane foam is a rather expensive insulation material. But they haven’t come up with anything better yet. It is resistant to moisture and does not sag even after long-term use. Reliably retains heat in the building.
To insulate a shed, it is better to choose polyurethane foam. It does not absorb moisture and does not deform during use
Polyurethane foam for insulation is placed in one layer, while cotton wool is placed in two or more. The choice in this case is obvious.
Video: how to choose insulation for a wooden shed
Waterproofing walls, floors and ceilings
When building a shed from wooden planks without a foundation, special attention is paid to waterproofing. It must be carried out on all surfaces of the structure - from floor to ceiling, so that moisture does not enter inside and interfere with the comfortable stay of livestock in the barn.
Waterproofing can be:
- coating;
- pasting;
- painting;
- sprayed.
Betonite mats, membranes and injections are also used as water insulation.
Coating waterproofing is bitumen - a substance with a pungent odor. It is not effective, but it is cheap. Shed wrap insulation works best. It is a rolled material that itself is attached to the surface. Paint insulation is similar to paint; sprayed insulation (in powder form) requires special equipment. The injection layer requires a lot of money. Mats or membranes are expensive and increase the thickness of the walls. But they reliably protect the structure from moisture. If there are no financial limitations, it is better to choose mats or membranes. Their service life reaches 70 years.
It is necessary to waterproof the barn, otherwise the room will be damp and the animals will get sick often
Required Tools
The required drawing has already been selected, the materials have been calculated. The preparation of instruments begins. To build a wooden shed without a foundation you will need:
- saw;
- drill;
- plane;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screws;
- nails;
- hammer;
- construction corner;
- building level;
- pencils;
- wires for carrying lighting into the room;
- marker for marking;
- construction stapler.
Additional materials and items needed to create a full-fledged shed:
- wooden door and hinges for its installation;
- a small window (in a plastic or wooden frame) so that sunlight penetrates into the room during the day, and the owner saves on electricity;
- OSB panels for creating partitions;
- lampshade and light bulb;
- switch;
- socket;
- cement mortar to fill vertical bars buried in the ground;
- sand, crushed stone;
- corrugated roofing;
- polyurethane foam.
Step-by-step instructions for making a shed
You can build a shed not only from wooden planks. Wooden pallets and scraps are also suitable for this purpose. The main thing is to prepare them for construction work: remove all nails, level them, and process them with a plane.
Instructions for building a shed without a foundation:
- They are clearing the area for the future barn. All debris and dirt are removed from the site, holes are dug, hills and mounds are leveled.
Preparation for construction begins with cleaning and marking the area
- They mark the area and determine how the barn will be located.
- 4 vertical bars are buried in the corners of the future building. Each of them should be deepened into the ground by 20 centimeters (no less).
The bars at the corners are buried in the ground and filled with cement for strength.
- To ensure that the bars stand firmly in place, they are filled with cement mortar and left to dry for at least 24 hours.
- The area is covered with crushed stone to compact the soil.
- Sand is poured onto the site and leveled.
The ground under the shed is compacted with crushed stone and sand so that the shed stands firmly in its place
- The construction of the frame begins: horizontal bars are nailed to the vertical bars. They start from the floor and end at the ceiling. The distance between parallel horizontal connections is 50 centimeters. Exactly the same “grid” is made on the floor and ceiling. Vertical beams and horizontal beams are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws.
Don't forget to leave room for the door and window
- On one of the short walls there is space for a door.
- On any wall there is a place for a window in order to subsequently install a frame with glass there.
- The interior cladding begins with boards, scraps or pallets. They are secured to the frame with nails. There should not be too large gaps between adjacent elements. At this stage, you need to cover all surfaces with boards except the floor.
When covering, it is necessary to avoid gaps between the boards
- When the interior decoration is completed, they go over the walls with a plane to remove snags and splinters that are dangerous for livestock.
A planer will help make the wood cladding smooth and even and remove all snags.
- Now the insulation is being laid. If you choose polyurethane foam, which is sold in the form of squares with sides of 50 centimeters, then it is attached to the wood with mounting adhesive. Choose one that suits the interaction with the tree. Information about this must be indicated on the product packaging. Cover all surfaces except the floor.
To insulate with mineral wool, you will have to make plank sheathing with the distance between the boards 1–2 mm less than the width of the slabs, so that the slabs fit as tightly as possible
- The insulation is covered with waterproofing. If mats or membranes are used, they are attached to the insulation with mounting adhesive. The protective layer is removed from the self-adhesive waterproofing and a sticky coating is applied to the insulation. This is how the walls and ceiling are covered. The waterproofing can also be secured with a stapler.
- Now we begin to install the floor. To do this, a layer of waterproofing is laid on wooden boards. Insulation is attached to it (preferably in 2 layers, even if it is polyurethane foam, so that it is as comfortable as possible inside). The insulation on top is again waterproofed and covered with wooden boards. An additional layer of waterproofing is necessary to prevent animal waste products from leaking into the insulation.
First they put waterproofing on the floor, then insulation, then again waterproofing and only in the end - wooden boards
- Windows and doors are installed. Work is carried out in accordance with the attached installation instructions.
Waterproofing must be installed under the outer skin
- The final stage is laying corrugated sheeting on the roof. They do this with an overlap so that water does not flow under the material. You can lay an additional layer of waterproofing coating under the corrugated sheeting. It won't be redundant.
Corrugated sheeting is the best material for protecting a barn roof from bad weather - it lasts a long time and is inexpensive
- Wires are pulled from the wiring on the street. They are fixed to the walls and ceiling to provide lighting. Inside, a switch and socket are installed on one of the walls. It will be possible to turn on the heating device in the outlet in winter if it becomes very cold in the barn.
- Partitions are made from OSB boards and installed in the required places. The slabs are cut with a saw and attached to the walls and floor with nails.
Video: building a barn from wooden planks without a foundation with your own hands
Building a shed from wooden planks without a foundation is quite simple. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and take a responsible approach to each stage of the work. Proper insulation is the key to ensuring that the animals inside will be cozy and comfortable, and the owner will not have to worry about them.
Preface
All about building a warm wooden shed from timber and boards. Selecting a location, developing the structure of the building, arranging the foundation, assembling the frame, insulating and sheathing the shed.
There are many different uses for a shed. And the choice of location on the site, as well as the size, design and materials from which it will be made, depend on them. Therefore, before you start building a shed for your summer cottage, you should immediately decide on its purpose. And not only in the near future, but also in the long term, so that later the auxiliary building does not have to be improved, completed, or even completely dismantled in order to build again.
Warm barn for chickens
If the shed at the dacha will be used only for storing garden tools and equipment, then when choosing a place for it, it is enough to adhere to the following criteria:
- Convenient access to the outbuilding at any time of the year.
- The soil at the construction site is unsuitable or not at all suitable for growing plants.
- Insufficient natural lighting for fruit and/or ornamental crops.
- You should not build a shed in a low area, as rain and melt water usually accumulates there. The structure will quickly become unusable, or during its construction it will be necessary to take protective measures (make a higher foundation, provide, if possible, waterproofing and drainage from it, strengthen the moisture insulation of the entire building, etc.), which will require additional effort, time and costs.
- It is not advisable to locate outbuildings in places where there is a lot of snow in winter. It may be difficult to get into it at this time of year (you will have to clear the path and the approach to the doors in order to open them), and in the spring you will have to push more snow away from the walls so that, again, they do not flood.
- If the appearance of the site from the front entrance is important and there are no intentions to decorate the barn in any way (using high-quality building materials or finishing over cheap ones or using ornamental plants), then it is better to place it behind the house or hide it behind tall plants, or in the depths of the garden, where he will be invisible.
A shed just for tools, especially in a country house with a small plot, can be built of very modest size. Most often, buildings are made 2x2.5 m.
If the barn at the dacha will be used for something else or has a completely different purpose, then this will need to be taken into account. If it contains a woodshed (a place for firewood) or a coal burner (for coal), then it is still better to build it closer to the house.
If there is a workshop in the barn, then, on the one hand, when there is noisy equipment in it, it is better to place the building away from housing, and on the other, the cost of providing the necessary communications (electricity, water supply, heating) depends on their length. We must not forget about the importance of natural light, as well as solar heat in winter. It is better to build a workshop in an open space, and not in the shade of trees or other buildings, and so that its windows are on the southern or eastern walls.
If the barn is intended for keeping pets, you must also take into account the required conditions for keeping them. For example, so that nothing bothers its guests at all.
In general, when choosing a location, you need to take into account all the nuances of using a barn. You should also rely on them when developing the structure of the building: what dimensions will be along the outer perimeter of the walls and height; how many, if any, interior spaces should be made and what will be their area; the presence of windows and additional doors (gates) and so on.
After drawing up a sketch of the future structure with basic dimensions, it is advisable to make more detailed drawings. They should indicate the dimensions of all elements of the garden shed. In this case, it is recommended to use the algorithm below for performing all the work. Based on detailed drawings, it will be possible to more or less accurately determine the amount of required building materials and draw up a preliminary cost estimate.
The optimal foundation option is columnar or pile. They belong to lightweight types of foundations, specifically intended for light buildings, such as those made of wood. Columnar is easier to make than any other. Pile foundations are suitable for all types of soil, except rocky ones. It is usually used in case of construction on difficult and heaving soils, since the installation of piles requires the use of special equipment or machinery. When there are no serious concerns that, due to the condition of the soil, a building on a columnar foundation may soon be damaged, then a pile foundation is not necessary.
Arrangement of a columnar foundation
Both types of foundation, pile and columnar, in their completed form are rows of columns along the perimeter of the building and, if necessary, inside it. Supports must be at the corners of the building and under the junction of the internal walls (partitions) and the external ones. The installation pitch of the pillars usually varies between 1.5–2.5 m and depends on the following points:
- shed size;
- what kind of logs (with what thickness and width) are planned to be installed.
The larger the cross-section of the lag, the longer the span between the supports can be. For example, to build 2x2 m, it is enough to place columns only in the corners and the logs will be 150x50 (in extreme cases 150x40) mm. If the barn is 3x3 m, then, leaving the board with the same section, you will have to install intermediate supports or use 150x70 mm logs.
If you use a board with a width of 100 mm, you will have to reduce not only the installation step of the pillars to 1–1.5 m, but also the logs themselves to 30 cm (instead of 0.5–1 m). Otherwise, the floor under your feet will sag noticeably.
After the formation of the supports (from piles or pillars), the further construction of the barn is no different. Therefore, and since the installation of a pile foundation will still require the involvement of specialists, we will consider the arrangement of a columnar foundation in more detail.
It can be made from different materials and in different ways. The most common options for making a columnar foundation:
- from pipes (metal, asbestos or plastic), which after installation are filled with concrete;
- made of bricks or small blocks;
- from reinforced concrete blocks.
Columnar foundation for a barn
For the first option, take pipes with a diameter of 15–20 cm and a length of 1.8–1.9 m. We dig 1.5 m deep wells in the places where asbestos or plastic pillars are installed. We insert pipes into them. All of them should protrude from the soil to the same height within 30–40 cm. If construction is carried out on a site that has a slope, then this must be taken into account. Pipes must be taken of different lengths - 1.8–1.9 m will go to the very top of the space for the shed, and below will be longer, in proportion to the difference in installation levels.
The top of all pillars should be at the same horizontal level.
Then you need to drive two reinforcing bars inside the pipes and at a distance of 6–8 cm from each other. This will strengthen the pillars and obtain in their upper part the elements necessary for fastening the lower frame of the barn. The reinforcement must be driven 25–30 cm deeper than the pipe installation level at the bottom of the wells and so that at the top the rods protrude the same amount above the supports. After this, we fill the pipe with concrete both from the outside and from the inside.
If the pipes are metal, we subject them to anti-corrosion treatment. We install them in almost the same way as asbestos and plastic ones. Only the wells must be made with a diameter that is several millimeters smaller than that of metal pipes. That is, the pipes will have to be driven into the holes for them. After this we pour the concrete. It is not necessary to insert fittings and studs. The timber frame building is light enough to support metal pipe posts. And to fasten the lower trim, instead of protruding reinforcement or studs, it is better to use a welded profile, for example, a corner.
The fastest way to prepare a columnar foundation of the third of the above types is to use ready-made reinforced concrete blocks, for example, FBS 600x300x200. It is necessary to dig pits under them. Their width and length should be slightly larger than those of the blocks, and their depth depends on the height of the latter. We fill the bottom of the pits with a sand and gravel cushion, and then compact it, after which its thickness should be 20–30 cm. We install blocks on the bedding. They should protrude above the soil surface by no less than 15–20 cm. The remaining gaps between the blocks and the walls of the pits are filled with soil extracted from the latter, which is then compacted tightly.
A columnar foundation is made from bricks or small blocks in much the same way as the previous type, only the supports are composite. First, we dig pits under them with a depth of at least 40 cm. We fill their bottom with a sand and gravel cushion, which we then tamp. Its thickness after this should be at least 25 cm. We lay bricks or blocks on the cushion using cement mortar.
The dimensions of the resulting pillars in diameter must be at least 2 times the width of the brick or blocks. The height of the supports should be such that they protrude above the soil surface by no less than 15–20 cm. Steel pins (reinforcement) or threaded studs should be installed in the middle of the corner and central pillars during the process of laying out their tops. They are useful for precise and reliable fastening of the lower trim and/or vertical racks made of beams. It is better to pour concrete into the remaining gap between the pillars and the walls of the pits rather than fill it with earth.
We lay waterproofing on top of the prepared foundation. It can be ordinary roofing felt. In order for it to lay down better and the waterproofing to be more reliable, it is better to lay it not directly on the foundation, but on bitumen mastic, which must be used to cover the top of the latter.
We install the bottom trim on the waterproofing. We make it from 150×150 mm timber. We connect this lumber at the corners of the future shed and at intermediate joints, if there are any, into half a tree - this is the easiest way. That is, we cut out the wood at the junction of the beams being joined to each other to the middle of their cross-section, so that one board fits tightly onto the other. If the foundation has studs or protruding reinforcement bars, then before installing them, holes must be drilled in the lumber of the same diameter as the metal products. We check the drilling locations by placing the beams at the installation site against the protruding fastener elements.
Installation of strapping and logs
Then we install the strapping lumber in place on top of the foundation. At the joints we nail the timber to each other with nails, preferably one hundred square meters, for example, 100×4 mm. For greater reliability of connections, reinforced corners can be nailed on the inside, and a mounting plate can be nailed on the outside. After this, if the foundation was without studs, that is, as a rule, made of blocks, you need to attach the strapping to it. To do this, we drill holes for a pin with a diameter of 10–14 mm through the beams into the foundation. We drive it into the prepared place and tighten it with the installation bolt. To prevent the head of the latter from protruding above the beam, a hole must first be drilled for it.
Let's move on to attaching the joists. It is best to take 150x60 mm boards for them. We turn them on edge and fasten them to the harness on the inside of the beams (and not on them) with special staples or corners of a suitable size. We nail the fastening material. Before thoroughly securing the logs, they must be aligned as accurately as possible along the upper edge of the trim beam. Otherwise, when laying the floor, you will have to suffer a lot, adjusting or redoing something, using a plane and other tools.
Before installing the bottom frame beams and joist boards, it is recommended that these lumber be treated with fire-bio protective compounds. Then the barn will last a long time.
After the lag, perhaps the most interesting part of the work is assembling the wall frame. It can be done in two ways. The first is the following order of work. The frame of each individual wall is assembled directly on the joists or on the ground next to the future building. The main thing is that the chosen site is level. The frames must be assembled sequentially one at a time. It's not worth it at the same time.
Construction of a barn frame
To assemble the wall frame, you must first place the beams of the lower and upper trim and corner posts on the ground, forming a regular rectangle from them. Then we once again level the lumber relative to each other, using a square and, if necessary, a level, ensuring that all the angles are right and the frame beams are in the same plane. After this, we drive nails of suitable sizes along all joints and/or use mounting angles and strips as fasteners. Then we install the resulting box in place of the corresponding wall on the bottom frame flush with its outer side. Then we level the frame, set a right angle between it and the base and fasten it with stops, slopes, spacers, while simultaneously nailing it to the bottom trim beam with 200x4 mm nails.
After this, we attach intermediate posts inside the box in the places of window, door and gate openings, as well as the junction with internal partitions (walls). They can be made not from timber, but from boards 100×50 or 100×40 mm, knocked together in 2 pieces. with nails, which we drive in in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 20 cm. After this, we install additional racks from the same boards in the remaining openings of the frame box. The distance between them should correspond to the width of the selected wall insulation. The optimal step is 0.6 m.
First we assemble the 2 frames of the longest walls, that is, the front and back. To ensure the subsequent arrangement of a pitched roof, they must be made of different heights. If the width of the future barn is 3 m, the front wall should be at least 0.5–0.6 m higher than the back wall. After installing these two frames on the lower frame and installing intermediate posts in them, we proceed to the end walls. Their boxes can be made from boards, and there are two assembly options. You can assemble the side frames as described above. In this case, we do not immediately install the manufactured first box, but use it as a template for the second. This way both frames will be exactly the same in size.
However, this option has one drawback - there is a high probability that the side boxes, when installed between the front and rear walls, will have to be slightly adjusted to the size of the opening with a plane or even an ax to make it faster. This usually happens if the required dimensions were not maintained and/or the lumber was too uneven.
Therefore, it is better to assemble the side wall boxes directly in the opening between the front and rear frames. First, we nail the beam or board of the bottom trim at the bottom. Then we attach lumber to it and the corner posts of the front and rear walls for the sides of the end frame. After this, we nail a beam or board of the top trim on top. Then we install intermediate racks.
The second method of assembling a shed frame is more complex and time-consuming. It has to be used when the walls are long and/or massive lumber (with a large cross-section and/or heavy wood) is used to make their frame. In this case, the assembled frame boxes are difficult or impossible to install on the lower frame and therefore they are made directly on the site of the future walls.
First, we nail the bottom trim of all 4 frames. Then we sequentially install the corner posts, align them, setting a right angle relative to the base in all planes, and then nail them to the bottom frame and fasten them with bevels so that the beam does not tilt until the frame is assembled. After this, we stretch a string (twine) between the corner posts and along it, one by one, we install and fasten the main intermediate posts (where the door windows and adjacent walls will be). If there are none, then we install one in the middle near the frame of the front and rear walls, and at the ends we do without it. Then we nail the top trim, and then all the other intermediate posts.
Using this method of assembling a shed, you can build all the walls in parallel in stages or one at a time in series. First, we completely manufacture the frame of the facade, then one of the ends of the building, and then at our discretion.
We assemble the rafter system from boards 150×40 (you can take 100×40) mm. Their length should be greater than the width of the shed so that the roof has an overhang on each side. Usually it is made 30–50 cm above the front and rear walls. That is, for a building with 3 m end walls, the length of the rafters should be 3.6–4 m.
We turn the boards on edge and lay them like this, and then nail them to the top frame of the walls with nails, which we drive obliquely, 2 on each side of the barn. After this, it is not necessary, but it will not hurt to strengthen the fastening of the rafters by installing mounting angles. This will allow the roof to withstand significant snow and wind loads.
Installation of roof sheathing
After this, you can immediately begin installing the sheathing under the roofing material, but it is recommended to take care of roof ventilation. To do this, we lay a waterproofing material (special film or ordinary roofing material) over the rafters. We secure it with 40x40 beams, which we place on top along the rafters and directly above them, and then nail them. When installed this way they are called counter bars. On top of them we nail a sheathing of 100×25 mm boards. The gap created by installing counter beams will provide ventilation for the roof covering, sheathing and waterproofing.
The installation step of the sheathing depends on the type of roofing chosen. For soft, small and fragile materials (for example, roofing felt, tiles, flat slate and the like) it is made solid. That is, the gap between the boards will be less than 1 cm. For ondulin, its manufacturer recommends a step of 40 cm. It is not worth laying sheathing boards less than every 50 cm, regardless of the type of coating.
A canopy must also be provided over the end walls. To do this, we lay the boards so that the sheathing protrudes beyond the outer rafters by 20–30 centimeters.
You can save a little on the sheathing if you make it from unedged boards. They are 1.5–2 times cheaper than edged ones. You just need to choose this lumber more carefully, because you will come across unedged boards that behave (like a propeller) and are very crooked. And one more point must be taken into account. Roofing material, such as roofing felt and the like, can be damaged by unedged boards. We will have to take care of his protection.
We lay the roofing material. Then we nail an anti-wind system around the perimeter of the roof, which will protect the roof from strong winds and from flowing water below. To do this, we nail boards of the same width from the front and back sides of the building to the ends of the rafters. Then we install the same lumber on the sides of the roof. We attach it with corners to the front and rear wind boards. After this, we sheathe the rafters from below. For this, you can use not only boards, but also moisture-resistant sheet building materials made of wood.
Insulation of barn walls
We make external wall cladding. You can use siding, lining, profiled or regular boards for it. Sheet materials are good and easy to install: plywood, chipboard, OSB, and so on. It is better that they are moisture resistant. Be sure to nail the boards horizontally. This will give the shed structure greater rigidity.
Again, you can save some money. If it doesn’t matter what the appearance of the shed will be, then it can be sheathed on the outside with unedged boards. Only considering that the edges of this material are uneven, it must be nailed with an overlap. You have to start from the bottom. We make an overlap of 2–3 cm, and if the lumber is too uneven, then more. You can trim it with edged boards in the same way. And the appearance is more attractive, and after the covering dries, no gaps form.
It is imperative to install hydro-wind insulation under the outer skin. This can be roofing felt or a special film. First, we lay insulation on the frame posts, temporarily fix or hold it somehow, and sequentially install the sheathing material on top.
Let's lay the floor. It can also be insulated and made with waterproofing. To do this, you need to place boards under the joists, you can use unedged ones and secure them with corners. This will be a sheathing for waterproofing and insulation. The installation step must be made up to 20 cm. Otherwise, the insulating materials will sag greatly over time and become less effective. Then inside the barn we lay hydro- and then thermal insulation on the sheathing between the joists. We install a vapor barrier directly on the joists (ordinary plastic film will do). After this we lay the floor. We use boards or sheet materials made of wood.
We install the internal wall cladding. We lay thermal insulation between the frame posts. We install a vapor barrier on top of the beams and boards of the frame. Then we install the internal cladding material - any of the above for the external one.
We cover the ceiling in almost the same way as we do the walls. We lay thermal insulation between the rafters, simultaneously nailing the internal sheathing. It will prevent the insulating material from falling out. Then we lay a vapor barrier on the sheathing boards and, at the same time, install the internal cladding material - whatever is used for the walls.
A barn is one of the most important and useful outbuildings. In this building you can store various kinds of garden supplies, barbecue, garden and home care products, and tools. If you really want to, you can even install a toilet and a summer shower in the barn.
With proper preparation, building a shed will not take much time or money. There are several types of such outbuildings. Beginners are recommended to give preference to frame structures - they are the easiest to construct.
Instructions for arranging a frame shed will be given below. Read the instructions and get started.
Choosing a location for a shed
When choosing a location for your shed, use personal preference. Some owners prefer it when the barn is located in some nook of the site. For others, it is more convenient when the barn is located next to the house.
It is most rational to build a shed on an area that is least suitable for growing garden and various types of agricultural crops. You can find a similar place in almost any area.
At the stage of choosing a place for arranging a shed, take into account the location of other zones of the land plot, take into account the dimensions of the building being erected and its external data. Try to ensure that the shed fits well into its surroundings and blends harmoniously with nearby buildings.
Set for work
- Wood processing machine. You can do without a machine, but with it the work will be faster and easier.
- Electric jigsaw.
- Hand-held circular saw.
- Electric planer.
- Screwdriver.
- Electric drill.
- Chain Saw.
- Boards.
- Logs.
- Ruberoid.
- Fastening elements.
- Switches.
- PVA glue.
- Sockets.
- Oilcloth.
Prices for various types of construction boards
Construction boards
Foundation
Any building structure needs a reliable and durable foundation that can support its weight.
Columnar, monolithic, strip and pile-screw type bases are suitable for arranging a shed. A columnar foundation is suitable in most cases, so experts recommend giving preference to this particular design.
Mark the area for the foundation. Any suitable pegs, cord and tape measure will help you with this.
Using a tape measure, measure the sides of the figure and its diagonals. The length of the elements must be the same.
Dig holes 500-700 mm deep around the perimeter of the marked area, in the corners, as well as at the intersection points of the internal partitions (sometimes deeper, depending on the level of soil freezing) for installation. The optimal spacing of the pillars is 1.2-1.5 m.
Build supports from asbestos pipes filled with reinforcement and concrete, or brick pillars - choose at your discretion.
Make sure that the pillars are installed evenly using a building level, fill the space around the pillars in the pits with a sand-gravel mixture to approximately 150 mm of the height of the recess, and fill the remaining space.
Leave the foundation to gain strength for several days.
Before backfilling and concreting, you can treat the support columns with a special mastic. It will help improve the waterproofing of the base and extend its service life.
Start assembling the frame of the future shed. Pre-soak all wooden elements with an antiseptic. The best option is impregnation with color. This product is simply more convenient to use - untreated areas will be clearly visible.
Place a timber support on the dry base. Select the dimensions of the timber in accordance with the dimensions of the shed being built.
Base - foundation and perimeter made of timber 
Lay the timber on support posts, previously covered with waterproofing material (roofing felt). Fasten the columns in any suitable way at your discretion.
Lay wooden boards 3-4 cm thick on the frame. At this stage of work, the main thing is to cut out parts of the boards near the vertical posts as carefully as possible.
Attach the boards to the floorboards “in secret”.
When determining the required number of support posts, take into account the presence of openings for installing double-glazed windows and doors, as well as the number of corners of the structure.
Place the beams strictly according to the building level. For leveling, use slope sticks. They will allow you to provide temporary fixation of the bars in the required position. Use nails to temporarily fasten elements together. Hammer them in approximately half the length so that in the future there will be no difficulties in dismantling the temporary supports.
Attach vertical support posts to the bottom frame frame. Fixation is carried out using corners, self-tapping screws, and pins extending from the base.
The frame can also be built on brick supports. In this case, first, several rows of brickwork are built around the perimeter of the foundation, and then wooden vertical posts are installed on them.
Use an electric planer to plan the three inner sides of the vertical beam. Bevel the sides facing the interior of the shed. Leave untreated only the sides that will later be sheathed with external boards.
Roofing and wall cladding
Attach the top portion of the shed frame to the exposed vertical support posts. Pre-prepare cuts in the timber according to the size of the posts. Fix the connections with corners and self-tapping screws.
Traditionally, barns are equipped with roofing structures. In this case, the length of the wooden posts on one side should exceed the length of the opposite supports.
This placement will further contribute to the effective removal of sedimentary moisture from the roof surface.
Build a roofing structure from boards 4-5 cm thick. The length of the rafters should be approximately 50 cm longer than the length of the frame.
In the places where the rafters meet the beams, make cuts first. Lay the rafters on the frame and secure with self-tapping screws. The installation pitch of the rafters is 40-50 cm.
Treat the frame with an antiseptic. Attach batten boards to the frame. Boards measuring 2.5x15 cm are optimal.
A roof made of boards requires a mandatory layer arrangement. Traditionally, roofing felt is used for moisture insulation. If you plan to install a more beautiful finishing coating, use polyethylene film for waterproofing.
Choose the finishing coating at your discretion. You can lay corrugated sheets, euro slate, etc.
Lining is suitable for covering the walls of a building; chipboard, boards and other similar materials can also be fixed. First, sheathe the front side of the shed, and then line the side and rear walls. Attach the boards without gaps.
If necessary, sand the outside of the boards with an electric planer. Typically, such treatment is only needed when covering walls with boards. Thanks to this, the material will become more attractive in appearance, and rain will linger much less on a smooth surface.
If you wish, you can paint the walls of the shed. Oil and water-based compositions are best suited for painting such buildings.
Carry out the interior arrangement of the finished shed at your own discretion. If the building is intended to store various kinds of tools and accessories, install convenient racks and shelves around the perimeter. Shelving allows you to make the most of the available space and easily access the things you need.
You can buy racks and shelves ready-made or make them yourself, for example, from boards, fiberboard, leftover furniture, etc.
At this point the barn is ready. All you have to do is bring it to it, if necessary, and install the required devices.
Good luck!
Prices for popular types of corrugated sheets
Corrugated sheet
Video - How to build a barn with your own hands
The arrangement of a summer cottage begins with a barn. Owners of a plot of land erect an outbuilding immediately so that they have a place to store equipment, garden tools and other everyday little things. Modern materials have significantly simplified the construction of country sheds with their own hands and improved them.
How to build a shed with your own hands, what materials to use? More on this below.
A shed at the dacha: when can’t you do without it?
There are summer residents who build a shed “just in case,” but their plot remains uninhabited. Such situations are rare - usually country houses are used as weekend homes or seasonal housing. In both cases, you can’t do without a shed - garden furniture, lawn mowers, tree pruning tools, swings, decorative figures and other items are stored in it.
A pond or pool on the site must be periodically cleaned of silt, algae, sand, and dirt. Pool cleaning equipment can be conveniently stored in a shed. By the way, it can be built under the same roof as a bathhouse or a recreation area can be arranged near an artificial pond.
Sheds often store chopped wood for a fireplace or stove, hay for horses, animal feed, and fertilizer for plants. Sheds on a summer cottage often replace the owner’s workshop.
Samples of sheds at the dacha: photos
Various materials are used for the construction of country sheds:
- plastic;
- wood-polymer composite;
- brick, foam block or gas block;
- unedged board;
- wooden beam;
- corrugated sheeting
The aesthetic result largely depends on the material chosen by the summer resident.
Plastic shed
Such sheds are sold as a set and can be assembled in a few hours - the diagram is included in the kit. Plastic structures are used to store gardening equipment, tools, and watering hoses. Their advantage is a stylish design that fits perfectly into any landscape design.
There are also disadvantages. Plastic sheds can only be used in the warm season - they are not suitable for late autumn and winter, as the material deforms in the cold.
The second disadvantage is the fragility of the plastic, so you need to use the outbuilding carefully. The high cost cannot be discounted - not every summer resident can afford the purchase.
DPK sheds
WPC is a wood-polymer composite, a lightweight and durable material. It is used for arranging open terraces. Sheds and other auxiliary buildings made of WPC are supplied disassembled and assembled according to the same principle as their plastic counterparts.
Stylish design and practicality are the two main advantages of WPC structures. If a summer resident takes care of ventilation, the barn will serve him for decades. Hanging shelves and tool hooks can be mounted on the interior walls.
Brick buildings
Sheds made of brick, foam or gas block are permanent structures that take decades to build. Their advantages are obvious:
- They are not afraid of snow, rain, wind, frost and summer heat.
- The internal space can be divided into zones.
The area of the barn is limited only by the requests of the owner of the summer cottage.
Construction of a brick building requires certain physical and financial costs, basic knowledge of foundation construction, wall laying and roofing.
Shed made of unedged boards
A wooden structure is a simple and economical solution. To build it, you do not need to pour a capital foundation, let it stand, and then build walls. You can build such a barn in 4-5 days. It does not look as impressive as plastic structures, but the costs are several times lower.
Shed made of corrugated sheets
A minimum of physical costs will be required to build a shed from profile sheets. A frame is erected from a wooden beam or a metal corner, and then sheathed with a profile sheet.
We build a barn at the dacha with our own hands according to the drawings
Today, as an example, we will consider the construction of a frame country shed, built from wooden beams and covered with clapboard boards. A drawing of the shed is shown below.
Foundation
The frame building is light in weight, so a shallow strip foundation is sufficient for its construction. The width of the foundation must be 15 cm greater than the thickness of the wall, and the foundation must be deepened by 40 cm.
When pouring the foundation, formwork is used - it can be removable or permanent. The tape is filled with concrete mortar - after the concrete has dried, waterproofing mastic must be applied to the outer parts of the foundation.
Frame
To build the frame, you need a wooden beam of the following section:
- for main vertical buildings - 50x100 mm or 100x100 mm;
- for connecting elements - 40x40 mm or 60x60 mm.
Below is a drawing of a shed with dimensions of 5000x2000x2000 mm. Vertical racks for the frame are installed at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from each other.
It is better to fasten the frame elements together with metal corners on self-tapping screws - this type of fastening is more reliable than nails. Using metal corners, the frame of the shed is also attached to the base - this is shown in the diagram below.
Before assembling the frame, you need to determine the locations for window and door openings. It is important to remember about the slope of the roof - for this, the front wall of the structure must be 20-30 cm higher than the back one.
After assembling the frame, the timber is treated with special solutions that will protect the wood from ignition, rotting, and swelling.
Roof sheathing
The distance between the sheathing bars depends on the roofing material used. A wooden beam is not suitable for arranging a soft roof - you need solid sheets of plywood.
But flexible tiles are used in the construction of country sheds in isolated cases - more often the roof is equipped with corrugated sheets, slate or metal tiles.
All of the roofing materials listed have wide sheets that are attached directly to the sheathing. The timber is laid perpendicular to the slope at a distance of 50-60 cm.
The profile sheet and metal tiles are attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets, so as not to damage the polymer layer and not spoil the decorative properties of the roofing material.
Frame covering
The frame can be sheathed from the inside and outside or only from the outside, using different materials. It is advisable to open a barn lined with wooden clapboard with a special wood varnish.
Unprocessed, it looks faded. But if you open it with dark varnish, the effect will pleasantly surprise summer residents. Log houses in Norway are often built from unedged boards. In Russia, they are gradually adopting this fashion and using this material to decorate the facades of private houses.
When the frame is ready and sheathed, the roof is installed, you can install window frames and door frames.
Construction of a barn for a summer house on video
Summer residents are confused by the fact that a barn can spoil the impression of the site. There are two ways to solve the problem:
- Set aside a place for the construction of an outbuilding in the depths of the plot behind the house so that it is not visible.
- Improve the barn, turning it into a recreation area, planting it with climbing plants.
To help summer residents - a video on how to build a lean-to shed at your dacha with your own hands:
And for inspiration, here are a few photos with ideas on how to decorate a barn on a summer cottage.
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