Correct installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands - assembly diagram. Instructions on how to assemble and install a stainless steel chimney How to install a stainless steel chimney

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Procedure for installing a metal chimney

Every person who has ever assembled a construction set can figure out how to make a chimney in a private house from galvanized or stainless steel. The components of modern metal combustion products removal systems are simply inserted into each other. The joints are sealed with heat-resistant mastic or sealant and secured with clamps.

Installation starts from the bottom, that is, from the heat generator. The connection is made “through condensate” against the movement of flue gases. This will prevent condensation from flowing out and possible icing of the chimney.

Performing a pipe passage through the roof

If the chimney passes through the roof, then to protect it from precipitation, use an adjustable metal apron with an inclination angle corresponding to the roof (0-15°, 15-30°, 30-45°). If the pipe rises above the roof by more than 1.5 m, then it must be fixed using guy wires.

Fastening the chimney and passing through the roof with the installation of an apron

To seal the intersection of the chimney with the roof, you can use universal rubber seals. Depending on the slope of the roof, a straight or angular type is used. It is only necessary to take into account the range of their operating temperatures.

Chimney passage through the roof with Master Flash sealant

The procedure for working with a universal rubber seal is very simple. It is necessary to cut the top in accordance with the required diameter, put it on the pipe, coat the bottom well with heat-resistant silicone and attach it to the roof using a screwdriver.

Installation procedure for universal rubber seal

With steep roof slopes, there is a risk of damage to chimneys from snow avalanches. To protect pipes when snow slides off the roof, you can install special metal dividers, as shown in the photo of a chimney on the roof of a private house.

Metal dividers to protect against snow sliding

Pipe passing through a wall

To avoid difficulties associated with creating an opening in the roof and its subsequent sealing, they usually try to use a chimney outlet through the wall, usually the back one.

This option involves only one intersection - with the outer wall, which is easily insulated with foam, in contrast to the obviously complex and unreliable connection of a hot chimney to a cold roof. In this case, the pipe is easily attached to the outside of the wall, does not affect the interior and is guaranteed to be free of leaks.

Chimney outlet through the wall of the house

Types of chimneys

Exhaust shafts through which harmful gases saturated with combustion products are removed are required not only for standard stoves, but also for fireplaces and gas boilers. Today, several types of chimneys are known. These include:

Straight streaming. This variety is considered a popular structure, which is most often used for arranging living space. The only drawback of such a chimney is rapid heat loss. In addition to toxic substances, most of the thermal energy evaporates here.

Straight flow pipes with jumpers. They retain most of the heat during the combustion process of materials. This design is quite often used in baths. Such a long-burning chimney for a stove requires constant cleaning. Ash quickly settles on the surface of the lintels, thereby preventing the rapid removal of toxic substances.

Straight flow chimney with a labyrinth. This variety is characterized by high heat transfer. Carbon monoxide passes through numerous jumpers. They quickly heat the walls of the chimney, thereby contributing to maximum heating of the room.

Kolpakovy. It is used for Russian stoves. The hot smoke quickly rises, where it gradually begins to cool. After this, it descends along the arch of the chimney masonry. The only drawback of such a structure is its uneven heating.

Modular. They are made from a metal alloy. They are intended for heating systems running on gas. Metal chimneys for stoves are able to cope with acidic compounds of methane combustion products. In this case, the brickwork will quickly collapse.

Features of chimneys made of different materials

A chimney in a private house can be made of the following materials:

brick;
ceramics;
steel.

It is impossible to give preference to one of them and select a clear favorite. The correct choice of suitable material for the construction of a chimney can only be made taking into account a complex set of influencing factors. First of all, it is necessary to analyze the specifics of operating conditions, the properties of each material and prices at the time of comparison.

Stove ceramic chimney

Scope of application of a brick chimney

A brick chimney is usually less expensive than other smoke removal systems. It can withstand high temperatures and even soot fires. Its main disadvantage is the bulkiness and complexity of the design. Built on a foundation or reinforced concrete floor. When working with stoves, fireplaces and wood-burning boilers, it is very reliable and durable, since the high temperature of the flue gases prevents the formation of condensation. In other cases it quickly collapses.

Brick chimney from fireplace

To build a brick chimney in a house with your own hands, you must have the special skills of a stove maker and mason. The trunks should be free of cracks and any irregularities. This is a serious construction that requires qualified workers.

Restoring a brick chimney can be done independently. You just need to insert a special flexible corrugation of the appropriate length into the channel from above.

Stainless steel chimney inside a brick pipe

Advantages of using ceramic chimneys

A ceramic chimney is also relatively inexpensive. It is characterized by increased strength and the ability to accumulate heat. High fire-resistant properties allow its use in high-temperature systems of solid fuel heat sources. The ceramic pipe can withstand heat up to 1200°C when soot ignites. The service life with proper care is equal to the service life of the building.

Ceramic elements of different sizes are connected using special grooves and sealed with fire-resistant adhesive-sealant. Ceramic pipes can be installed openly and in shafts made of bricks or special hollow blocks, installed inside and outside the house.

Ceramic chimney pipes

For new construction, it is very profitable and convenient to use system chimneys made of ceramic pipes laid in special shafts. They are a good solution for all types of fuel combustion equipment.

Characteristics and types of steel chimneys

A steel chimney is easily assembled according to the principle of a designer. A wide selection of shaped and fastening parts allows you to create almost any configuration and install a chimney in a private house, both during construction and during the operation of the building.

Taking into account the requirements for resistance to corrosion and acids, pipes are made not of ordinary steel, but of galvanized or stainless steel. Stainless steel is noticeably more expensive, but has a longer service life.

Steel chimney details

The scope of application of steel products is limited to systems with relatively low flue gas temperatures, since according to SNiP 41-01-2003 their maximum temperature is 500°C. Accordingly, use with solid fuel boilers is undesirable.

Steel smoke removal systems are very convenient for installation in already occupied houses, as they are installed quickly and do not require a foundation, plaster or cladding. At the same time, they are noticeably more expensive than brick and ceramic ones.

Chimneys with two walls are also made from steel, using the “pipe-in-pipe” principle. They are called coaxial. These are used for condensing and turbocharged gas boilers with closed combustion chambers. The air required for combustion is taken not from the room, but from the street.

Coaxial chimneys remove combustion products through the inner pipe, and supply combustion air through the outer pipe. Their assembly is carried out similarly to single-wall steel ones. Installing a coaxial type chimney has the lowest cost.

Coaxial chimney installation kit

Installation of an external chimney for a boiler

So, we have figured out the features of materials for installing an external chimney. The most optimal system is a stainless pipe of the appropriate steel grade and wall thickness (depending on the type of fuel the boiler operates on). Let us immediately note that if the boiler is multi-fuel, then the wall thickness and steel grade are calculated based on the fuel with the highest combustion temperature.

An important condition for installing an external chimney is the absence of horizontal transitions. As a rule, it is in them that the largest amount of soot and condensation accumulates, which interfere with normal traction.

Also very important is the distance from the pipe to the ridge of the roof, which affects the height of the chimney. The closer the chimney is to the top of the ridge, the greater its height

Basic requirements for how to make an external chimney:

Installation work must be done “from bottom to top”, inserting each subsequent section inside the previous one. The depth of the joint must be at least half the outer diameter of the pipe.
When installing an external chimney with your own hands, for sealing, each joint is treated with a special sealant and clamped with a clamp.
The walls along which the chimney is laid must be made of non-combustible materials. Otherwise, a technological gap or a gasket made of non-flammable material is required.
At a distance of 1-1.5 meters, a section of pipe is attached to the wall of the house with a special bracket. Transitions or other structural elements are attached separately.
It is necessary to exclude contact of sections of the external chimney with electrical wiring or gas lines.
When installing an external chimney on an external wall, it is necessary to provide an inspection window or a removable part for servicing the system.

Step-by-step procedure for installing a chimney:

Make a hole in the wall. It must be located at a distance of at least 50 cm from the boiler itself.
Fix the fasteners that will serve as a support for installing the chimney. Pipe fasteners are installed in increments of no more than 90 cm.
Connect the lower part of the pipe to the boiler.
Bring the upper part of the chimney to the street.
Install the capacitor.
Secure the chimney.

Installation of chimney using sandwich panels

You don’t need any special skills to figure out how to properly make a chimney of this type. It is enough to understand what such a chimney consists of, and then correctly assemble all the parts. Interestingly, some sales points offer almost ready-made chimney designs made from sandwich panels, which you can purchase and install yourself without any problems. There is an option to select all the components separately, which an experienced seller can advise on. The technology for installing such a chimney involves the following points:

all components are mounted from bottom to top;
in roofing and attic floors, do not forget to use non-flammable insulation (stone wool) to prevent fire;
a steel platform is installed to the ceiling, through the center of which a chimney passes;
tees with condensate drainage are used for external sandwich pipes;
components going up the level are inserted inside the lower ones;
if we are talking about an internal chimney, the connection to the roof is carried out using a roof platform that has a different angle of inclination, which can be selected at different points of sale depending on the individual characteristics of the roof;
After installation, do not forget about the protective elements: weather vane, deflector, thermal fungus or spark arrester.

When constructing a chimney from sandwich panels, you need to know that the height and size of the section are important. The traction will be better if the pipe is higher, but it should not be too high either, since there will be a lot of aerodynamic drag

The cross-section of a chimney made of sandwich panels is determined by the rule - the ratio of the internal diameter to the maximum dimensions of the firebox opening should be 10:1.

Features of using sandwich pipes for baths

Since a bathhouse, as a rule, is built of wood (and if it is made of foam blocks, then it is lined with flammable material), issues of thermal insulation become of particular importance. It is prohibited to use single-layer chimneys for bathhouses - only brick and sandwich chimneys are allowed. All distances from the chimney to flammable objects must be carefully verified and observed in accordance with SNiP. All pyrohazardous surfaces must be insulated with vermiculite or asbestos. It is forbidden to install a deflector on a sauna chimney due to its strong windage. The distance from the chimney to the wall is at least 25 centimeters!

Caution: under no circumstances should a sauna ventilation system be combined with a chimney.

Preliminary calculations

In addition to the cross-section, you should also determine the length of the chimney and its correct location.

Length calculation

There are some requirements here, let's take a look at them.

According to the same SNiP, the minimum height of the chimney should be 5 meters.
If the roofing in your case is a flammable material, then the chimney should rise above the ridge by another 1-1.5 meters.
If the coating is non-flammable, then this height will be at least 0.5 meters.

Note! If there are extensions to the house, the height of which exceeds its height, then the chimney must be installed above this particular extension. . Location

Location

If the roof is flat, then the pipe should rise above it by at least 0.5 meters.
If the chimney is located less than 1.5 meters from the ridge, then it should rise at least 0.5 meters above the ridge.
If this distance ranges from 1.5-3 meters, then the height of the pipe should be equal to the height of the ridge.
Finally, if the chimney is located further than 3 meters, then this height should be equal to a line drawn in the imagination from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees relative to the horizon.

If all these requirements are taken into account, the installation of the chimney pipe will be completed correctly.

Requirements for a chimney for a gas boiler

How to install a chimney for a gas boiler, their design features and how to choose the right location. Find out the answers to these questions

What else should you know?

Installation of the structure should begin from the heating device and gradually rise upward.
Various utilities (such as electrical wiring, gas pipelines, etc.) should not touch the chimney.
It is impossible for the structure to have ledges.
The structure should be protected from exposure to precipitation. To do this you will need a deflector or any other device. It is important that such protection does not interfere with the free release of smoky gases.
The temperature of the smoke gases moving through the channel should not exceed 50 degrees.
During installation, all nuances regarding the installation of a sandwich chimney must be taken into account. So, if the roof is made of flammable material, and peat or wood is used as fuel, then spark catchers, which are usually made from a metal mesh with cell sizes of 0.5 x 0.5 centimeters, must be installed.
Pipe sections that are on a slope should not be rough. In addition, their cross-sectional area must at least correspond to the vertical one.

Connection options

There are several ways to connect such chimneys:

flanged;
for condensate;
bayonet;
by smoke;
and finally, in the cold.

Note! The structure is assembled according to smoke to completely prevent the penetration of carbon monoxide into the room. But for condensate, so that condensed moisture flows freely along the walls due to the temperature difference.

If the installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands was done using the first method, then the smoky gases will not encounter any obstacles and, thanks to the draft, will be quickly removed to the street. But if the joints are sealed poorly, then condensation can penetrate inside the structure, which will have a very bad effect on the basalt insulation. In the second case, the inner tube is installed in a socket, so moisture can in no way penetrate inside. But if there is even a small gap, then smoke can enter the room. So which option should you choose? Condensed moisture is harmful to insulation, and smoky gases are harmful to human health. The solution is obvious: regardless of the chosen method, all joints and cracks should be carefully sealed.

Note! It is advisable to install the internal pipes of the structure along the condensate so that it does not get into the joints and does not flow.

We also note that even with two layers, such chimneys require good insulation of those sections that are most fire hazardous - we are talking about the roof, beams and ceiling. Moreover, the sandwich should not be used to connect directly to a heating device.

So, you have already become familiar with the technology. Now all that remains is to purchase all the necessary materials (necessarily high-quality, certified) and get to work!

Installation sequence

Installation of an internal chimney begins with drawing up a diagram and calculating the required number of pipe segments. To assemble correctly, the device is performed in the following order:

Scheme of the chimney outlet through the corrugated roof

The surface of the walls and floor behind the heating device and chimney is protected from heat with fire-resistant material, for example, asbestos sheets.
The first segment of the pipe is connected to the pipe of the heat-generating device or furnace. If there are gaps at the connection point, use an adapter or seal. To seal the joint, use fire-resistant sealant and a metal clamp.
Each subsequent segment of a single-circuit pipe is placed on the underlying one so as not to impede the passage of smoke. The connection of sandwich pipes is performed differently - the elements of the internal circuit are inserted into the underlying module, and vice versa into the external one.
It is recommended to maintain an overlap between the pipes equal to a quarter of the radius. To make it more convenient to treat the joints with sealant and tighten the joints with clamps, you should not place them in places where interfloor ceilings and the roof pass.
If it is necessary to unfold the pipe, the modules are connected using a rotating elbow with an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.
To pass a chimney through the ceiling and roof, you need to make a hole in them and install a passage box or pipe into which fire-resistant insulation is poured.

After the pipe is brought to the roof, it is protected with an elastic seal in the form of a funnel, which reliably protects against water penetration.

Installation of a silicone seal to waterproof the connection between the corrugated sheet and the pipe

The pipe is completed to the calculated height and a protective umbrella is put on top to prevent debris, branches and birds from entering the chimney.
The pipe outlet area is finished with a decorative apron that matches the color of the roofing material.

After installation is completed, it is necessary to start the heating system, check the draft and tightness of the connections - even a small amount of smoke indicates serious problems, the solution of which is unsafe to postpone.

Installing a chimney in a house is a responsible undertaking, the quality of which determines the comfort and safety of operation of the heating system, so follow the manufacturers’ recommendations and installation technology.

For a solid fuel boiler, a brick chimney

A brick chimney is usually costs less, than modern chimney systems. A traditional ceramic brick chimney pipe can easily withstand high flue gas temperatures. The pipe can even withstand ignition of soot accumulations in the chimney.

A brick chimney for a boiler in a private house is a rather heavy structure. The chimney is located on the foundation or a solid reinforced concrete floor. The construction of such a chimney requires certain skills; it is better to entrust the laying of a sealed and durable chimney to a qualified stove mason.

Channels and chimneys and ventilation are often placed in a brick chimney

The chimney is laid from high-quality solid ceramic bricks of a grade not lower than M125 using ordinary masonry mortar. The upper section of the pipe, above the roof, can be laid out of facing or clinker bricks. The thickness of the chimney walls must be at least 120 mm(half a brick).

Brick chimney laying. Ventilation ducts are usually placed next to the chimney in one vertical block. Templates make it easier to lay even channels with smooth walls.

The size of the chimney and ventilation channels is chosen as a multiple of the brick size, taking into account the thickness of the vertical joints. For example, channel cross-section can be 140x140 mm(1/2x1/2 brick) or 140x200 mm(1/2x3/4 bricks), or 140x270 mm(1/2 x 1 brick). In practice, a smoke channel is often made measuring 20 x 20 cm(3/4x3/4 bricks). If necessary, it is easy to select and insert a round steel or ceramic liner of the appropriate diameter into such a channel.

The flue gases in the chimney duct should not be very cool. Therefore, they try to build the chimney into the masonry of the internal wall of the house or attach it to the wall. Sections of the chimney that pass through an unheated room (attic) or outside the house insulated with mineral wool.

Brick the chimney serves reliably and for a long time only at high flue gas temperatures, which prevents condensation from forming in the pipe. As a rule, this condition is met when the chimney is operated with a conventional one.

When working with modern gas or liquid fuel boilers, as well as with solid fuel pyrolysis boilers, pellet and others, operating for a long time in a slow burning mode of low intensity, the brick chimney is destroyed quite quickly.

Modern boilers are designed so that the exhaust gases have a fairly low temperature. As a result, condensation of water vapor contained in the flue gases occurs in the chimney. The pipe walls are constantly moistened. In addition, when combining with other combustion products, water forms aggressive chemical compounds on the inner surface of the pipe.

In particular, the exhaust gases of boilers contain sulfur, which, interacting with water, forms sulfuric acid in the chimney, which corrodes its walls. External signs of destruction are dark wet spots on the outer surface of the brick pipe.

The operating mode of a solid fuel pyrolysis boiler also contributes to the formation of aggressive condensate in the chimney, which quickly destroys the brick chimney.

Rough chimney walls contribute to the accumulation of solid soot particles on them. The roughness of the walls and the rectangular shape of the chimney duct make it difficult to clean the chimney from deposits.

For connecting gas and other boilers with low flue gas temperatures to a brick chimney, in a brick channel it is necessary to place an insert - a steel or ceramic chimney pipe.

How to install chimneys made of stainless steel or cast iron

The cheapest and easiest way to install a chimney is to install a metal pipe. The entire installation is divided into several successive stages:

First you prepare a channel for the chimney.
Then you actually install the chimney.
And at the final stage you install insulation around the pipe.

The channel for the metal chimney should be approximately one and a half times its diameter. In this case, you will have space for insulation.

installation of a stainless steel chimney

The metal chimney itself consists of the following components: a metal pipe, adapters for mounting the pipes, a cap and a condenser. In a number of designs, a damper is installed in the chimney - a unit that increases draft in the system.

Stages of chimney installation

At the initial stage of chimney installation, you need to adjust the length of the pipes. Next, the resulting structure is placed in a previously prepared channel. After this, the condenser and the heating device itself (stove or boiler) are connected to the system. At the final stage, the head is installed.

In order to firmly fix the pipe, it must be attached to the wall at least every one and a half meters.

When installing steel and cast iron pipes, it is necessary to provide high-quality thermal insulation of the chimney. Only in this case will you be able to avoid fires in the ceilings and adjacent structures due to a suddenly leaky pipe. To insulate a metal chimney, it is best to use the classic method - fireproof clay. But in extreme cases, you can also use special fire-resistant foam.

You can also use clay to decorate the joints between a chimney made of a metal pipe and the ceilings and roof.

junction of a metal chimney with a ceiling

If you use a metal pipe, then it must be fixed to the ceiling and walls with fasteners every half meter. This is caused by the large weight of such chimney pipes. In addition, the mounting holes are made wider - approximately two pipe diameters.

A cast iron pipe will last longer as a chimney, but its installation is fraught with certain difficulties. So you can cut such a pipe only with the help of a grinder.

Correct installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands

Sandwich chimneys made of several materials replace conventional metal pipes. The multilayer design allows for high-quality insulation of the ceilings from heating by the combustion products of the furnace. When installing such a chimney, no additional insulation is required, as a result of which the mounting holes can be made almost equal to the diameter of the pipe.

When installing metal pipes, they fit into each other like nesting dolls and no additional fixation is required to connect the elbows. In sandwich chimneys, the pipe elbows must be connected to each other using special construction glue. In addition to securing the knees, construction adhesive also prevents smoke from entering the premises.

Sandwich pipes are very sensitive to the formation of condensation from atmospheric moisture, so they are not recommended for use when installing external chimneys. Inside a building, such a pipe can last up to 70 years.

Installation of an external chimney

The most optimal material for the manufacture of an external stove chimney will be a pipe made of stainless metal. It weighs a little and can be easily processed with the simplest tools.

installation of an external chimney

In order to install an external chimney from a stainless pipe, carry out the following work:

Punch a hole in the pipe adjacent to the boiler. It should be located no lower than half a meter from the top of the boiler.
Place fasteners on the outer wall one meter apart from each other.
Connect the chimney inlet to the heating device.
Remove the bent pipe elbow from the room.
Install the capacitor.
Fix the pipe to the wall.
Install the chimney cap and protection.

Design features of a sandwich chimney

Thanks to the British, all structures that consist of more than three layers are called “sandwiches”. And, of course, there is a chimney with a similar name, where between the two circuits there is a thermal insulation layer (mainly made of basalt-based materials).

Thanks to this, combustion products are removed from the combustion chamber as efficiently as possible, since:

internal surfaces are resistant to condensing moisture and high temperatures;
the thermal insulation layer prevents overheating of the external circuit;
excellent traction is achieved;
Design features do not allow moisture to enter the thermal insulator.

The interior of the chimney is made of stainless steel, which is known to be resistant to rust. As for the external, it is often made from galvanized steel, which is less durable, but costs less. Therefore, you will have to choose between quality (read: stainless steel) and economy (galvanized). And if the internal pipes, first of all, must withstand critical temperatures well, then the external ones must be strong so that the shape of the entire structure does not change.

In addition to the chimney itself, during installation you will need:

a special “adapter” for passing through the roof;
brackets for fixing pipes;
platform for unloading – it will allow you to evenly distribute the weight and relieve the base from the load;
audit with a window for cleaning;
clamps for fastening structural elements;
adapters;
elbow 90 or 45 degrees (to change the direction of the chimney);
adapters.

Note! The upper part of the pipe can be decorated with a cone or other elements - a fungus, a spark absorber, a woppler, a weather vane, and so on. . The sandwich chimney provides excellent thermal insulation, so it can be installed even outside the house

But it will function much better if you install it in the house, as close as possible to the heat source (this minimizes heat loss).

The sandwich chimney provides excellent thermal insulation, so it can even be installed outside the house. But it will function much better if you install it in the house, as close as possible to the heat source (this minimizes heat loss).

Read more about how to make a chimney for a solid fuel boiler

Previously, we have already considered the principles of installing such a chimney, read more

Types of chimney pipes

The chimney pipe serves to transfer smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere; it starts from the inlet pipe of the heating device in the house and ends above the roof ridge with a protective umbrella. In private construction, the following types are mainly used:

Made of brick. Brick pipe has been used since people began building fireplaces and stoves. The difference between the modern one is the use of special oven-fired, fire-resistant bricks. Due to its heat-accumulating properties, this material retains heat inside the pipe, preventing overheating of the house finishing in contact with its walls. The complex structure of a brick pipe and its significant weight force homeowners to abandon this option. Only experienced stove craftsmen can correctly install chimneys of this type, which increases costs due to the wages of the foreman.

Made of metal. The sale of metal chimneys has made it easier to create a chimney system in a private home. Additional alloy steel pipes with a thickness of 1 mm or more are lighter and cheaper than their brick counterparts. The device of such a chimney consists of separate modules. Straight modules are used for laying vertical and horizontal sections, and bends and tees are used for rotary sections. Installing a galvanized steel chimney has one drawback, which is that its material has better thermal conductivity compared to brick pipes, so it requires additional insulation. However, installing this type of chimney yourself is much easier; to do everything correctly, you just need to follow the instructions.

Internal metal chimney

Made of ceramics. The ceramic chimney system combines the strengths of brick and metal chimneys. It has a modular design and low thermal conductivity. The price for such products is higher than for metal pipes, but significantly lower than the cost of brick ones. It is difficult to make a ceramic chimney curved; it is better suited for a vertical system configuration.

Ceramic chimney pipe

The material from which the chimney is made can be selected correctly based on three factors: compliance with the material of the heating device, low thermal conductivity and tightness of the connections.

Technical characteristics of sandwich pipes

Material. Basalt fiber (mineral wool) is mainly used as a thermal insulation material. This type of insulation is resistant to high temperatures and chemicals. Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation/sound insulation properties and is laid with a thickness of 30-60 mm. Due to their fireproof properties, multilayer pipes can be used in houses built from any material. More expensive alloys with a high degree of heat resistance are used for the inner casing.

The inner layer of the sandwich pipe is mainly made of galvanized steel, and the outer layer can be made of copper, brass, stainless steel, etc. The scope of the pipe and the price depend on the content of alloying materials, various alloys and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

Sandwich pipes galvanized and stainless steel

Connection type. Sandwich pipe elements are connected in two ways: corrugated edges and sockets. The advantage of a corrugated connection is ease of installation, but to ensure tightness, a large amount of sealant is required, and this increases the cost of the chimney. With a socket connection, a high degree of tightness is achieved due to the presence of a wider chamfer on one side of the pipe. The advantage is a high degree of tightness, due to which the design can be used for gas boilers. But the downside is the complexity of installation and the need for very precise adjustment of all parts.

Types of sandwich pipe connections

Installation of the structure

The external chimney (its main part) is installed outside the building, which is connected by a horizontal pipe through the wall of the building to the heating unit. After installing the heating boiler, it must be connected to a chimney pipe, which will be located outside the building. It's not as difficult as it seems at first glance. However, you must follow some rules for venting the chimney through the wall.

External mounting

Rules for performing work

The chimney is installed in all cases from the heating boiler, or rather, from the hob upwards. The gas exhaust pipe is always put on top of the previous one, this avoids the penetration of moisture onto the insulation.

To seal the structure, a heat-resistant sealant is used, not less than 1000*C.
Clamps should be used on waste connections, tees and pipes.
At a distance of two meters, the external chimney must be rigidly attached to the wall with special brackets. They should also be used when fastening tees.
Horizontal sections of the chimney pipe are not allowed to exceed one meter.
Avoid contact of gas pipes with chimney ducts and electrical wiring.
When passing a pipe through a flammable structure, use special fire-fighting pipes.
Install a removable door for cleaning (this must be done twice a season) of the structure at the base of the chimney.

Installation

When everything is known about the design and the material is ready, you can begin the main work.

We connect the chimney to the heating boiler pipe using an elbow, pipe or tee (depending on the design).
We connect the pipe to the chimney using the necessary transition unit.
We treat the joints with sealant and install clamps.
The passage through the wall is carried out using a special passage pipe (joining is prohibited in the place where the wall passes).

Attention: All sections of the chimney pipe should be pushed tightly into each other without gaps, the insertion distance should be at least 0.5 of the pipe cross-section (fitting depth). .

Chimney outlet in the wall

We are preparing the installation of the vertical part of the structure. At the end of the horizontal pipe leading through the wall, we attach a tee with fasteners for the vertical pipe. If we use an elbow, it is necessary to create conditions for cleaning the horizontal gap of the connection. When using a tee, the lower outlet is blocked by a plug, which is removed or we use a tee with revision. How and to what to attach the chimney depends on its location. The pipe is attached to the wall with wall brackets every 2 meters. If the main pipe is heavy, the elbow should be supported. It often happens that it is impossible to fasten to the wall along the entire length of the structure; in this case, braces are used.
We install a clamp with ears, attach clamps to the ears and attach guy cables of the required length to them. In this case, the guy rope must have a diameter of at least 3 mm.
In the places where the guy wires are fastened, we install eye-pins or anchors (we choose based on the mounting surface).

Assembling the outer pipe

The next step is to lift and secure the entire vertical pipe structure. It is possible to install it in parts, but this is unsafe work at height, and sometimes completely impossible. As a rule, the pipe is assembled on the ground, fasten all parts with clamps, prepare fasteners for braces and brackets.

To facilitate this process, we use a hinge.
We select the required elbow for the connection and fasten the hinge to the edge of the outer pipe, welding it.
We raise the finished end of the pipe to the level of the joint and also attach the hinge to the end of the elbow.
We lift the entire structure using attached cables and a fork. This should be done in good weather; it should not be done in gusty winds.
We carry out fastening in accessible places.
For stability, we secure the stretch marks lightly.
Unscrew the nuts that secure the hinge. We use a grinder to cut off the bolts themselves and knock out the ends.
We knock out the hinge and fasten the remaining bolts at the joint.
We perform full tension on the stretch marks. We adjust the tension using the lanyard screws.

The installation has come to an end. We fasten the joint and seal the joint. Afterwards we insulate the vertical pipe and make insulation (this way we will avoid the appearance of condensation). Now you can rest assured about heating your home.

Chimney in the bathhouse

For a bathhouse, the best option is a metal chimney. A sauna stove rarely reaches extremely high temperatures, and the atmosphere in the sauna is ensured only by good insulation of the room. But here it is better to take stainless steel, because the humidity in the building will be high, which will significantly affect the durability of the metal.

The presented options show the available chimney outlets from the bathhouse. It is worth considering that they all have thermal insulation on the external area. This is necessary to reduce heat loss and reduce metal damage.

The design of a chimney for a sauna stove is not so complicated; here it is necessary to take into account only an important nuance - condensation. It will constantly accumulate due to high temperatures and humidity. This is undesirable, because it will reduce the life of the chimney.

Single-circuit pipe connecting the stove and chimney.
Adapter.
Double-circuit pipe.
Condensate drain.
Umbrella.

Initially, it is necessary to assemble these components. It is carried out using clamps and adapters that allow you to connect the various components of the chimney. You will also need a 45 degree bend to allow the pipe to be moved to the side. It is recommended to vent it not through the roof, but through the wall, which will protect the structure from condensation.

Advice ! Assembly can be carried out both preliminary and during the installation of components on the building.

Material from which pipes are made

For different heating devices and types of fuel, a different type of steel is selected. It must be highly alloyed and stainless, suitable for the manufacture of chemically resistant and fireproof chimneys.

In the construction of a chimney, one of the main characteristics is the steel grade as a criterion for long-term service and resistance to external negativity

When various substances burn, chemically active substances can accumulate in the chimney: sulfuric acid, sulfur, hydrochloric acid. In addition, the temperature during combustion of different fuels can vary greatly.

When heating with wood or gas, it does not rise above 450° C; when burning coal, it can reach 700° C. Metals react differently to these indicators. Therefore, when choosing a smoke exhaust system, pay attention to the main characteristic - the quality and properties of the steel.

Option No. 1: Stainless steel with alloying additives

The main grades of steel alloys that are used for the production of sandwich chimneys:

Titanium stabilized stainless steel (AISI 321). Used for wood burning equipment. Not resistant to corrosion in sulfur-containing environments. Permissible operating temperature is 600-800°C.
Molybdenum stabilized stainless steel (AISI 316). Installation of a sandwich chimney made of this grade of steel is carried out for heating installations that operate on wood, gas, or diesel fuel. The metal is acid-resistant and has increased resistance to corrosion and aggressive environments of various types.
Heat-resistant steel (AISI 304). The inclusion of chromium and nickel makes the steel insensitive to elevated temperatures and acidic environments. Used for the production of chimneys with high temperature exhaust gases - about 1000 °C. At temperatures of 600-800 °C, it is prone to loss of viscosity and ductility, which leads to embrittlement.
The widely used grades AISI 409 and 430 are poorly resistant to high temperatures and acids. Most Chinese products and some domestic ones are made from these grades of steel.

It is impossible to check the steel grade visually. When purchasing, you can check the markings on the product itself or try to approximately determine the quality using a magnet. Low quality material will attract a magnet, metal with added alloying additives will not.

When choosing pipes for a chimney, take an interest in their main characteristics. If you have doubts about the seller’s honesty, take a magnet with you - it will be attracted to steel products with insufficient proportions of alloying additives

Option No. 2: Ferrous metal for chimney pipes

The ferrous metal itself quickly wears out - it oxidizes and burns out. Therefore, special enamel is used to protect it. This increases resistance to acidic environments. Enamel can serve for a long time at temperatures not exceeding 400 °C and can withstand short-term increases up to 750 °C.

The variety of shades of enameled pipes makes them quite popular

Enameled pipes are used to remove combustion products from heating columns, stoves, heating boilers, and fireplaces. Unlike steel ones, they can be painted in different colors. This allows you to select the right shades for the interior or facade of the house.

Option No. 3: Combined sandwich chimneys

To reduce the cost of production, enterprises try to use cheaper materials. If the inner pipe is made of expensive stainless steel, and the outer pipe is made of galvanized or enameled metal, then this has little effect on the service life of the product.

It’s worse if it’s the other way around: they use stainless steel on the outside, and hide cheap, low-quality material inside. With intensive use, such a pipe can last a year and fail, which will entail new costs for materials and installation.

Inner insulation layer

Between the two pipes of a sandwich chimney there is a layer of insulating material that retains heat inside and thereby maintains good draft. Basalt or ceramic wool is used as insulation - fibrous materials with the highest fire resistance class.

Basalt wool can withstand temperatures up to 600 °C, ceramic wool - up to 1000 °C. Both materials have good thermal insulation properties. A layer of insulation of 25-50 mm is used. For a chimney that is mounted outside, the larger it is, the better.

Why finish the pipe?

There are at least 3 reasons why it is necessary to finish chimneys on the roof:

High temperatures, on the one hand, and cold air on the other, lead to condensation settling on the inner surface of the pipe. But this is not just water; condensation is an aggressive acid cocktail that gradually corrodes the pipe. External insulation shifts the dew point inside the insulation and eliminates the appearance of condensation;

Clinker brick does not require additional finishing.

222222If a solid clinker brick or a stainless steel pipe was used to construct the chimney, then these materials are not afraid of weather troubles. While ordinary brick without external protection will begin to crumble in a couple of years, steel will rust, and concrete will crack;
In addition to the strength of the chimney, there is also such an important point as protecting the roof itself from rain. If the sealing of the sector connecting the pipe with the roof was performed poorly, then within a year the insulation will become unusable, and the wooden rafter system will begin to deteriorate.

You should not wait until the chimney is completely destroyed.

What to rely on when developing a project

Appearance and original design are of course important, but before you finish a pipe in the house, you should think about safety. I think you can guess the dire consequences yourself.

So, in order not to make mistakes and not burn down the house, first it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the standards. In this case should be guided by SNiP 41-01-2003, it is this instruction that regulates the installation and operation of heating, ventilation and air conditioning. The document is voluminous, so I have written down the main points for you.

SNiP standards 41-01-2003.

If flammable thermal insulation and finishing materials are selected for the chimney, then their spontaneous combustion temperature should be at least 20ºC higher than the maximum possible temperature of the pipe. The same rule applies to all structures and objects surrounding the chimney within a radius of half a meter;
Metal products capable of corroding must have an appropriate coating that protects the surface from corrosion;
The walls of brick chimneys made of heat-resistant bricks should not be thinner than 120 mm. If we are talking about heat-resistant concrete, then the wall thickness of such pipes starts from 60 mm;
The use of metal and asbestos-cement structures for chimney installation is allowed only if there is a factory quality certificate that allows the use of products at high temperatures;

Finishing of asbestos-cement chimneys.

The use of asbestos-cement and thin-walled stainless steel pipes in furnaces burning coal or coke is strictly prohibited. These materials are not able to withstand the temperature of the gases in such a chimney.

The mouth of the chimney (the highest point on the roof) must be equipped with an umbrella, deflector or other protective structure that prevents debris and precipitation from entering the chimney. At the same time, protective structures should not interfere with the exit of flue gases;
The distance from brick and heat-insulated chimneys to roof rafters and other wooden structures should not be less than 130 mm. If a heat-resistant ceramic pipe without thermal insulation is installed, then the safe distance increases to 250 mm.

Deflector made of galvanized sheet.

When you choose both the chimney itself and the finish for the surface of the chimney, inside or outside, you should consider the type of fuel your boiler or stove will run on. The temperature of the flue gases directly depends on this.

Types of fuel for a solid fuel boiler.

Pros and cons of using a sandwich chimney

Disadvantages of chimneys assembled from sandwich pipes:

failure of sealing after a certain number of heating and cooling cycles;
compared to a brick structure, a sandwich chimney has a higher cost;
The service life is about 15 years, while traditional fire brick chimneys last 10 years longer.

This short service life is mainly due to the use of low-quality materials in production.

Choosing products from a trusted brand is the first thing you can do for the long and successful operation of your chimney.

Image gallery
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Chimneys assembled from sandwich-type elements do not require thermal insulation. Any length of the canal section can be located outside the building
Smoke ducts assembled from sandwich elements work with any type of heating units and can be installed in rooms not equipped to accommodate such equipment
A sandwich chimney is made up of elements that are a pipe within a pipe, the space between which is filled with insulation
The assembly and installation of the pipe begins with a horizontal section, starting from the point where the shaped pipe exits the house
The areas where the sandwich chimney intersects the wall and the roofing system are insulated with linings made of non-combustible materials
Where the chimney intersects the roofing system or wall, only a solid element can be located. It is impossible for the elements to join in the passage
To prevent precipitation from seeping through the roof, a sealed passage assembly is constructed around the chimney

The argument for sandwich systems

Compatibility with heating units

Pipe design features

Starting section for pipe assembly

Chimney passage insulation details

Features of the arrangement of penetrations

Construction of a passage through the roof

Installing an umbrella at the mouth of the chimney

The advantages of sandwich chimneys are as follows:

Insulated walls. Thanks to thermal insulation, even a chimney placed outside does not lose draft. Multilayer walls prevent the rapid cooling of combustion products, which are quickly removed through the chimney, and this prevents condensation and soot from actively forming.
Easy installation. Having studied the principles of chimney construction, even a beginner can assemble them.
Variety of options. To assemble the structure, straight and corner modules are produced. The chimney can be led up or into the wall; it can go around the rafter system and various architectural elements.
Minimal soot settling. Thanks to the smooth surface of the pipes, ash and soot are released into the atmosphere faster and accumulate more slowly.

In addition, the sandwich system is relatively lightweight, which means it is easier to create a support for it and does not require the construction of a special foundation, as for a brick chimney. It can be attached to ceilings and walls, or installed directly on heating equipment. Compared to single-wall chimneys, sandwich chimneys almost do not form condensation and are fireproof.

Even the most complex structure can be assembled from standard sandwich chimney elements

Three options for independently arranging a chimney outside

There are 3 options where a person without special training can do everything with his own hands. The first option concerns brick pipes, which do not need lining, but you need to seal the joint with the roof. After this comes the frame version and the option with ready-made factory solutions.

Option number 1: we arrange a brick pipe

Waterproofing the pipe on the roof should be carried out before laying the roofing material. If the roof is already in place, you will have to partially dismantle it. The entire perimeter of 50–70 cm around is removed, plus you need to remove the lower part of the roof from the pipe to the edge of the slope.

Scheme of sealing the perimeter of a brick pipe on a pitched roof.

The materials we need are a wall metal profile. You can bend it from galvanized steel with your own hands or buy it ready-made. The profile consists of 4 parts, which are superimposed on each other during installation.

It is definitely better to buy an external apron for the pipe, and it is advisable to buy it together with the roofing material, it is easier to choose the color.

The so-called tie is a sheet of roofing iron with sides curved on the sides. It is laid from the bottom of the pipe to the edge of the slope and placed under the lower section of the wall profile.

In order to hermetically connect a brick pipe with a wall profile, we need to cut a groove about 20–30 mm deep on the pipe with a grinder. The curved edge of the profile is inserted into this groove.

Under the wall profile, a groove is cut around the entire perimeter of the pipe.

Next, we insert the curved edge of the profile into the groove and fill the groove with sealant. Then we fix all 4 parts of the profile and the tie, fastened from below with self-tapping screws and press washers. Roofing material is laid on top of this entire structure.

Scheme of arrangement of the upper apron for the chimney.

The upper apron is attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter. It must extend onto the pipe by at least 100 mm. The lower part of the apron is often made of soft bituminous materials. It is pressed around the corrugated roof and glued to this roof with mastic or special glue.

The apron must be glued to the roof.

The scheme works something like this: the main amount of moisture is removed from the pipe by the upper apron, but if this barrier does not cope with its task and moisture gets under the roof, then it will be collected by the wall profile and the water will flow down the tie from the roof.

Scheme of double waterproofing of the roof in the sector adjacent to the chimney.

Option No. 2: frame installation

This method is well suited for insulating and lining the chimney with corrugated sheets, siding and other similar materials. To begin with, the base is sheathed with a metal profile; later we will attach corrugated sheeting to it. It is better to make the frame from a wall profile under plasterboard; it is wider than the ceiling.

The metal profile frame is more durable.

It is not difficult to work with a metal profile, but if you are not confident in your abilities, you can build a frame from wooden blocks. True, the wooden frame will need to be well impregnated with fire retardants, antiseptics and a water-repellent composition. Between the frame slats, slabs of dense mineral wool are laid to insulate the pipe.

Chimneys are insulated only with slabs of dense mineral wool.

Corrugated sheeting or any other sheet material is screwed to the frame slats using self-tapping screws and press washers. The whole structure is crowned with an umbrella for protection from the rain.

Sectional diagram of an insulated and lining pipe.

Option No. 3: ready-made solutions

There are no problems at all with round pipes now. Special flexible aprons are produced for them. Based on experience, such an apron can be installed in a couple of hours maximum. Photo instructions for installing such an apron are given below.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a flexible connection unit for a round pipe.

Select the pipe diameter you need and cut a hole in the soft polymer cone;
Pull the cone onto the pipe, the connection should be tight;
Crimp the lower ring of soft metal to the shape of the roof;
Thickly lubricate the perimeter under the ring with sealant;
Screw the ring to the roofing material using self-tapping screws and press washers.

Design Features

Despite the huge selection of materials for the construction of chimneys, the most widely used today are double-circuit steel pipes, popularly called “sandwich”.

The sandwich type chimney is a two-layer structure. Between two metal pipes of different diameters there is a layer of heat-insulating material, which simultaneously serves as insulation and insulation.

Video: Chimney made from sandwich pipes

Compared to single-circuit pipes, which are made from steel 0.5 mm thick, the double-circuit design is characterized by increased fire safety and better technical characteristics. To install a chimney outside the building, single-circuit pipes are not recommended. After all, due to only one layer, they are simply not able to retain heat in the cold season. Due to a sharp temperature difference, condensation forms in such a chimney, reducing draft and creating blockages in the pipe.

Construction of a double-circuit sandwich pipe

Therefore, to install a chimney through a wall, the best option would be to purchase sandwich pipes. The popularity of such a double-circuit chimney is due to its low price compared to a brick chimney, attractive appearance, excellent technical characteristics, fire safety and long-term operation.

In addition, you can do the installation of a chimney made of this material yourself. And although there are some nuances and subtleties here, even a beginner can cope with the task if you strictly follow our detailed instructions.

What should be the height of the chimney?

A necessary condition for stable and reliable operation of almost all heat sources is the presence of good draft. It occurs due to the difference between the temperatures of the exhaust gases and the outside air. As this difference increases, craving increases. It directly depends on the height, characteristics and correctness of the chimney.

The action of the wind can enhance the natural draft in the pipe, or it can interfere. Under favorable conditions, horizontal wind flows, colliding with the chimney, change their direction and move from bottom to top, as a result, a vacuum is created at the outlet, and combustion products are literally sucked out of the chimney. If there are other obstacles, the wind can be directed from top to bottom and create a reverse movement of gases - reverse draft, which leads to smoke in the room.

Scheme for determining the height of the chimney

Any tall structure located nearby, including part of a pitched roof, can interfere with the normal movement of the wind. Therefore, the height of the chimney is determined taking into account the distance to the ridge according to the regulatory scheme.

In this case, the total height of the pipe from the heat generator must be at least 5 m, for a gas boiler - at least 3 m.

Structural elements and their features

The variety of products allows us to perform complex tasks in the construction of sandwich chimneys.

Chimney manufacturers have developed more than twenty different elements to facilitate installation

The main design elements of the chimney duct are:

Straight pipe sections. Sections with a diameter of 80-600 mm, up to 1 m long. The ideal chimney design is straight, but in practice this is difficult to achieve.
Knees and tees. They are used if it is necessary to bring the chimney through the wall, to the outside of the building, or to bypass the structural elements of the house - beams, rafters. Sometimes, for turns (especially straight, 90°), tees with revision are used - they allow you to clean the chimney in hard-to-reach places. They are installed and reinforced with brackets so that they do not bear the weight of the structure above.
Feedthrough pipe. It insulates the pipe from the interfloor partitions and serves as a fastening for the chimney.
Roofing cutting. It is a metal cone that is attached to the roof at a certain angle. Helps to pass the pipe through the roof without compromising its tightness and increasing fire safety. Instead, a special silicone seal can be used, which serves as better protection against leakage.

In addition to the above elements, there are also a lot of devices for installing a chimney made of sandwich pipes, as well as its further operation.

The chimney is secured with brackets every two meters. Fasteners for fixing clamps on the wall are selected in accordance with the material from which it is made

Second phase. Chimney outlet

This procedure can be performed in one of two ways:

through the wall;
through the roof.

Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

Option No. 1: output through the wall

In this case, the entire structure will have to be disassembled and the so-called landing brackets secured. After this, the outer bracket is assembled, a pair of corners are attached to it, forming “runners” (this way the tee can be moved freely during installation, without anything getting stuck).

The wall itself is covered with a sheet of plywood 1 centimeter thick, and asbestos is fixed on top with screws. Next, a sheet of galvanized steel measuring 12x20 centimeters is installed. A square hole is made in this sheet for the pipe to come out, after which it is also secured with screws. Finally, the bracket is coated with a special anti-corrosion varnish. An adapter is inserted into the hole, a hole is made in it, and then the pipe is put on it.

Also in the construction of chimneys there is such a thing as a concession. This is the space that must be left between the wall surface and the pipe.

Table. Basic requirements for a concession (also called a concession)

Note! The first structural element must be calculated so that the first sandwich pipe is attached to the second above the ceiling cutting level. This can be explained quite simply: the most fire-unsafe elements require visual inspection

Option No. 2: output through the roof

Installing a sandwich chimney like this yourself is also possible. In this case, a sheet of steel is taken and applied to the outlet hole from the inside. The chimney is removed and only then the sheet is fixed to the roof. If necessary, it is additionally wound under the edge.

Note! If the roof is flat, then the pipe, as noted above, should be at least 1 meter higher than it. And if the height exceeds 120 centimeters, then additional guy wires with clamps are installed.

If the roof is made of flammable material, it is additionally protected from fire. For this purpose, the chimney is equipped with a spark arrester.

Content

Before installing a heat source that requires gas, solid or liquid fuel in a private house, bathhouse or outbuilding, it is necessary to prepare a design for a combustion product removal system. Today, classic designs made of brick or asbestos-cement pipes are replacing convenient and practical chimneys made of stainless steel, for the installation of which ready-made elements are used.

Types of stainless steel chimneys

You can connect any type of heating boiler, metal or compact brick stove, or fireplace to the universal modular chimney. You can assemble the smoke channel yourself by choosing the right system. They differ in design, purpose, and metal characteristics.

Main advantages

Chimneys made from asbestos-cement pipes were in demand due to their low cost, despite their low practicality. Brick structures are still actively used today, including due to their solid and impressive appearance, but they are increasingly being modernized with the help of stainless steel inlays. The list of advantages of a chimney made of stainless steel includes:

Light weight. The chimney does not require a foundation, which reduces the cost and speeds up installation work.
Corrosion resistance. Stainless steel is resistant to acids contained in smoke condensate and dangerous for brick and asbestos cement.
Resistance to temperature changes. The metal can withstand cooling to low temperatures on frosty days and heating by flue gases up to 800 degrees Celsius or more.
Effective chimney removal. Good traction is facilitated by the round cross-section of the pipe.
Low maintenance. There is practically no soot deposited on the internal walls of the chimney channel (unlike rough walls made of brick or asbestos cement), so it rarely needs cleaning.
Easy installation. The configuration of standard elements allows for quick assembly of pipes of any length.
Maintainability. The modular system allows, if necessary, to change only the element that has failed, which reduces the cost of operating the smoke exhaust system.
Long service life (subject to the correct selection of manufacturing materials and proper installation).
Versatility. A stainless steel chimney is suitable for any type of heating unit.
Freedom of installation. It is not necessary to mount a strictly vertical structure; inclined elements and turns are allowed, which simplifies the search for a convenient place to install a boiler, fireplace or stove. A pipe with internal insulation can be installed outside the building - in this case there will be no need to install passage units through the floors and roof.
Affordable price.

Chimney components

Types of pipes

Stainless steel is used to make three types of chimney pipes, each of which has its own specific application. It is important to take this into account when choosing an option for a residential building, bathhouse or other building. Manufacturers offer the following types of designs:

single-walled (single-layer);
corrugated;
sandwich pipes.

Let's take a closer look at which stainless steel chimney pipe would be more appropriate for use in certain conditions.

Single wall pipes

Single-layer systems are made of stainless steel sheet with a thickness of 0.6 to 2 mm. The option is characterized by a low price, but the scope of application of such a pipe is limited.

It can only be installed inside a warm room, and the outer part of the chimney should be insulated. This is due to the fact that contact of heated metal with cold air leads to increased formation of condensation. This reduces the efficiency of the heating unit, entails excessive fuel consumption, and reduces the service life of the stove or boiler.

Single wall pipes

Single-wall steel pipes are most often used to arrange sleeves when modernizing brick smoke ducts. Lining extends the service life of a brick chimney due to protection from destructive condensation, and reduces the need for maintenance, since soot does not build up on the walls. Manufacturers offer single-layer stainless steel pipes of different sizes, round and oval sections, which allows you to choose the best option for a particular brick chimney.

A single-layer pipe can also be used in conjunction with a water heating system for a small room - a garage, workshop, washing department of a bathhouse. In this case, a water jacket is mounted on the chimney pipe, to which the supply and return pipes are connected. Also, the thermal energy of exhaust flue gases can be used to heat a compact room by running a single-layer pipe at an angle along a long wall.

Installation of a chimney made from a single-layer stainless steel pipe requires strict adherence to fire safety rules when arranging passages through the floors and roof. The ignition of soot in a pipe (especially when using a solid fuel stove) can heat the metal to critical temperatures and lead to the fire of wooden structures.

Corrugated pipes

The corrugated stainless steel pipe is designed for installation of curved transitions if the outlet pipe of the boiler or furnace is located away from the vertical chimney channel. Also, when lining a brick chimney, a corrugated pipe can be used inside a structure that has bends.

Corrugated pipes

It is necessary to choose a high-quality corrugated pipe made of stainless steel that can withstand heating up to 900 °C. Corrugated elements are used inside and outside the building, but in the second case they require insulation to avoid the formation of condensation due to contact of the metal with cold air.

Note! A chimney project using corrugated elements may be rejected by regulatory authorities, since there are complaints about the strength and heat resistance of corrugated pipes.

Sandwich systems

A two-layer pipe, which is a sandwich with a non-flammable heat insulator between metal shells made of stainless steel, is produced in the form of straight and shaped elements for assembling a chimney of any configuration. Due to the thermal insulation layer, this is the most practical option for a smoke exhaust duct, because:

increased safety is ensured (the outer walls of the system do not heat up to dangerous temperatures, the heat insulator itself is resistant to ignition);
allows you to install the chimney outside the building;
a minimum of condensation is formed (the internal pipe through which combustion products move does not come into contact with cold air);
there is no unnecessary heat loss, which allows the heating unit to operate in optimal mode, without excessive fuel consumption;
the system is installed quickly and without the hassle of pipe insulation.

Sandwich system

Sandwich pipes are universal; they are used for installation on gas or solid fuel boilers, fireplaces and stoves of any type.

Range of modules

Installation of a stainless steel chimney is carried out using ready-made modules of various types, so it is not difficult to do it yourself. Manufacturers offer the following elements:

Straight pipes. The part can have a length from 33 to 100 cm. The elements are firmly connected to each other through bell-shaped coupling; installation does not require the use of additional fasteners.
Bends 45°. They are used when it is necessary to perform a deviation from the vertical.
90° bends. Used to transition between vertical and horizontal sections of the structure.
Tee 45° or 87°. Designed for installation of a condensate assembly unit, it can also be used to connect two heating units to a common chimney.
Condensate collector. It is mounted at the lower point of the main vertical channel; moisture condensed during cooling of the flue gases flows into it.
Revision element. Installed in places where there is a higher risk of soot accumulation, to check and clean the chimney system.
Penetrations. Special elements for arranging the nodes for passing pipes through floors and roofs help ensure fireproof insulation of structures, roof tightness, and an attractive appearance.
Cap, spark arrester and other elements for installation on the top of the chimney. They protect the system from the penetration of precipitation, the occurrence of the reverse draft effect, and from sparks hitting the roofing.

Chimney elements

Material selection

To make stainless steel pipes for chimneys, various grades of steel are used. The service life of the product and its resistance to burnout when soot ignites in the pipe depend on the choice. The higher the quality of the steel, the more expensive it is. Be sure to take into account the frequency of operation of the chimney - the requirements for the chimneys of boiler units operating around the clock during the heating season are higher than for the pipes of sauna stoves that are fired from time to time.

steel grade	Characteristics
439	Titanium and aluminum are used as additives. The material is resistant to acid corrosion and can withstand heating up to 850 °C.
430	Mainly used for the manufacture of casings and other elements that are not directly exposed to high temperatures and aggressive environments.
409	High heat resistance and acid resistance, can be used for chimney pipes of solid fuel stoves and fireplaces.
304	High strength, good weldability. It serves as a cheaper analogue of steel 316, somewhat inferior to its parameters due to the low amount of alloying additives.
310S	A universal material due to its ability to withstand heat up to 1000 °C.
316	Thermal stability and chemical resistance are ensured by the addition of molybdenum and nickel. The material is suitable for boiler pipes of any type.
316i, 321	Pipes are universal, flexible, and corrosion resistant. Can be used for wood stoves.

Stainless steel material selection

In private housing construction, stainless steel pipes of grades 409, 430, 439 are mainly used. With periodic operation (weekly heating of a sauna stove with wood), such a system will last about ten years. On boilers in load mode 24 hours a day, the average service life will be 2–3 years. To extend the service life of the chimney system, it is recommended to install it from 3XX stainless steel.

Chimney design

The design of a system for the removal of combustion products begins with the selection of a modular system and preparation of the project. Since the requirements for chimneys for gas boilers are increased, their design must be submitted to technical supervision services and permission for installation work must be obtained.

The minimum permissible total height of the chimney is 5 meters, otherwise the draft will be insufficient.
The maximum length of the horizontal section of the channel is 1 meter;
Outside the building and in unheated rooms, the chimney must be thermally insulated, unless it is a sandwich system.
The height of the chimney pipe above the roof:
- at least 50 cm if the roof is flat or the distance from the ridge of the pitched roof to the pipe is less than 150 cm;
- flush with the ridge or higher, if the distance from the pipe to the ridge is from 150 to 300 cm;
- below a line with a slope of 10° from the horizon of the ridge, if the distance between the ridge and the pipe is more than 300 cm;
- above the level of buildings attached to the building.
If the roofing material is not resistant to fire, regulations require the installation of a spark arrestor.
The minimum distance between a single-wall stainless steel pipe and the floor and roof structures is 1 meter; (for a sandwich - 20 cm), the pipe must be insulated with non-flammable material (basalt wool).
A gap of 13 cm is required between the pipe and the roof (including those made of non-combustible materials).
Pipe connection points should not be located inside structures (ceilings, walls). The minimum distance from the joint to the structure is 70 cm.
Horizontal and inclined sections of the chimney duct must be assembled “according to the smoke” - the next element is put on the previous one so that combustion products are removed as efficiently as possible. The vertical channel is mounted “along the condensate” - so that the moisture flows freely, the subsequent element is inserted into the one located below.
Throughout the entire length of the chimney duct, its internal diameter must be no less than the diameter of the outlet pipe of the heating unit.
No more than three turns are allowed along the entire length of the chimney.

Chimney installation diagram

There are various installation schemes for stainless steel chimneys. In the case of using a sandwich system, it is easier to bring the pipe outside so as not to punch holes in the ceilings and roof. The pipe is secured to the external wall using special brackets. The external chimney can also be mounted inside a metal profile frame to prevent accidental mechanical damage, especially in the case of high wind loads.

Installation features

When installing stainless chimneys, it is important to follow the rules on the basis of which the system is designed. The entire range of work can be completed independently, paying special attention to the following points:

A standard adapter must be attached to the nozzle of the heating unit, and not a homemade replacement, as this can lead to problems in the operation of the chimney;
additional sealing of pipe joints is required to prevent carbon monoxide from entering the room and to ensure good draft;
the sealant must be heat-resistant and withstand heating up to +1000 ... +1500 degrees Celsius;
brackets for external installation of the pipe are fastened in increments of no more than two meters, and fastening points must be provided at the point where the chimney passes through the wall and next to the inspection compartment.

Types of installation

Thanks to the special configuration of the edges, you can quickly connect the modules, creating a solid structure. Details on how to properly assemble a stainless steel chimney can be found in the video.

If you are the owner of a private house or cottage, then you probably know that an integral stage in the construction of any structure heated with a fireplace or stove is the installation of a chimney. The main purpose of this functional element is to remove combustion products from the firebox that pose a health hazard, as well as to provide reliable draft necessary to maintain combustion processes, while the draft level is determined by the diameter of the chimney and the height of the smoke channel. Among supporters of doing all the housework independently without the involvement of specialists, chimneys of the “sandwich” design are the most popular, which is explained by their functionality, practicality, high aesthetic characteristics and other equally significant advantages. However, the prevalence of sandwich chimneys among ordinary craftsmen is largely due to the safety and ease of their installation, of course, provided that only certified and high-quality materials are purchased. Despite the fact that the installation of sandwich chimneys involves connecting structural elements and auxiliary parts in the correct sequence, during their assembly it is necessary to observe a number of certain nuances, neglect of which can significantly reduce the performance characteristics of the structure. Considering the relevance of this problem, in this article we will consider the technology for installing a sandwich chimney with our own hands, as well as the main types and features of this structural element.

Construction of sandwich chimneys: design features

A sandwich chimney is a metal or ceramic structure consisting of several segments, each of which is one meter long and is inserted into the other during the installation process. To put it simply, the design of a sandwich chimney is represented by an inner and outer pipe, between which there is a layer of heat insulator, most often basalt fiber or mineral wool, characterized by high thermal insulation properties, resistance to open flames and immunity to a number of chemicals. Thanks to this three-layer structure, this design is called “sandwich”. In most cases, stainless steel, characterized by increased anti-corrosion properties, is used to make the internal pipe contour, and for the external pipe, in order to save money, less durable galvanized metal is used.

Important! When choosing a material for the manufacture of the internal contour of a sandwich chimney pipe, it is necessary to be guided by its ability to withstand elevated temperatures, and for the external one - by its strength characteristics, since it must be sufficiently rigid, which will help preserve the original configuration of not only the pipe, but also the entire structure in in general.

Main components of a sandwich chimney system

It is logical that only straight pipes cannot be used to install a system used for smoke removal. This is explained by the structural features of the building: the sandwich chimney must go around its elements, pass through the ceilings and roof. In this regard, during its assembly, sectional fragments are used, the connection of which is carried out using additional elements. To understand this in more detail, let’s consider what elements a sandwich chimney consists of.

The structure of the sandwich chimney system includes the following main elements:

Sandwich pipes;
Tees are structural elements of the system that are used to connect the chimney to the fireboxes of fireplaces and stoves, as well as in the branching areas of the chimney channel;
Elbows are elements designed for installing chimney bends. For these purposes, models with bends of 15, 30, 45 and 90 degrees are used;
The condensate collector is another part of the chimney designed to drain and remove moisture that accumulates on the internal walls of the chimney as a result of temperature changes;
Roof penetration elements - parts of the system designed for installation of a sandwich chimney in places where it overcomes roof structures while simultaneously ensuring effective thermal and waterproofing;
An inspection tee equipped with a door is a device designed to monitor the cleanliness of the smoke channel and remove soot;
The mouth is a structural element necessary for arranging the upper edge of the chimney;
Support console - a structural element necessary for installing a wall or floor base under the chimney;
Wall clamp is a device designed to securely fix the chimney relative to the wall.

Advantages and disadvantages of sandwich chimneys

High aesthetic characteristics and spectacular appearance;
Thanks to their design features, sandwich chimneys can be effectively combined with various models of stoves and boilers;
Due to the lightness and versatility of the design, sandwich chimneys can be used both outside and indoors;
Unlike brick chimneys, the significantly smaller volume of sandwich structures allows them not to clutter up the interior space of the room;
Due to the fact that sandwich chimneys are made of stainless steel, they are resistant to factors generated during the combustion process, namely chemical and thermal aggression;
During the operation of sandwich chimneys, there is no damage to the internal layer of the structure under the influence of aggressive factors, and therefore it retains its performance characteristics for a long time;
The next advantage of sandwich chimneys is especially important for structures that use equipment with direct exhaust during operation. Thanks to effective thermal insulation, sandwich structures are reliably protected from condensation;
Due to the fact that the internal surface of the chimney is smooth, soot does not settle on it during its operation, which allows cleaning the chimney duct quite rarely;
Thanks to effective thermal insulation, the outer contour of the chimney does not heat up to critical temperatures, which can cause a fire in the combustible elements of the building. Taking this into account, we can talk about the high fire safety of the system;
Due to the convenience of the design, during the installation of which it becomes possible to make turns and bends of the chimney, by laying a sandwich chimney, you will be able to go around any obstacles in its path without resorting to dismantling the ceilings or removing roofing elements;
Thanks to the possibility of erecting a structure without an additional foundation, its installation becomes easier and cheaper.

Despite the significant number of advantages of sandwich chimneys, these structures also have certain disadvantages that also deserve attention.

Disadvantages of sandwich chimneys:

Possibility of loss of tightness of the structure in case of its long-term operation;
Violation of the integrity of the sandwich chimney in the event of constant sudden temperature changes;
Quite a high cost of construction;

Important! Despite the service life declared by the manufacturer to be no more than 10-15 years, in practice sandwich chimneys operate effectively for a longer time.

Main types of sandwich chimneys: brief description

It was previously noted that sandwich chimneys are multilayer structures made of ceramics or stainless steel. Currently, they are presented on the construction market in the form of ready-made elements, which are subsequently assembled into a single structure. Despite the fact that both types of construction are characterized by a similar installation method, each of them also has its own characteristics, which will be discussed below.

Stainless steel sandwich chimneys

The design of stainless steel chimneys includes an internal pipe, characterized by resistance to high temperatures, which is wrapped in non-flammable thermal insulation material. It is protected from external influences by another pipe called the outer loop and made of stainless steel or galvanized metal, the use of which is a budget option. It is important to note that the internal contour can be made of metal or ceramic, which is typical for combined chimneys.

Ceramic sandwich chimneys

The design of ceramic chimneys is represented by a pipe made of heat-resistant ceramics. The outside is wrapped with thermal insulating mats, and the inside is covered with high-strength glaze. This structure must be placed in an outer shell, for the manufacture of which expanded clay concrete and foam concrete blocks are used. The design features of ceramic chimneys, namely the presence of a heat-insulating layer, allow them not to heat up from the outside, which determines their absolute fire safety.

Important! Despite the fact that the design of ceramic and metal chimneys is generally similar, there are also differences, the main one of which is weight. The weight of a full-fledged ceramic chimney can reach a ton, while the weight of a stainless steel chimney does not exceed two hundred kilograms. In addition, an integral stage of installing a ceramic chimney is the arrangement of the foundation, while the installation of a stainless steel chimney is limited to the arrangement of unloading areas at each floor level.

The most current methods of connecting sandwich pipes for chimneys: brief description

There are several ways to connect sandwich pipes for chimneys. The most popular of them are: flange method, bayonet method, “cold bridge”, “condensate” and “smoke”.

The latter method of assembling a chimney completely guarantees that carbon monoxide will not penetrate inside the house or bathhouse. And using the “condensate” method, you can be sure that the condensate formed inside the chimney will flow freely down the walls of the pipe.

What must be observed during the installation of a chimney made of sandwich pipes?

The height of the chimney from the heating device to the tip is a fairly constant value and should be at least 5 m;
It is necessary to pay attention to the roof of neighboring buildings: the elevation of the chimney relative to neighboring buildings should not be more than 1.5 m;
If the chimney is elevated above the roof by 1.5 m or more, it needs additional fastening using braces;

In accordance with the recommendations of experts, the design of the chimney should include plugs equipped with a condensate drain, which is designed to remove condensate and inspect the chimney;
In the case of installing a roof made of flammable materials, the chimney design must include a spark arrester made of mesh with a cell of at least 5x5 mm;
During the installation of a sandwich chimney, it is unacceptable to narrow the diameter of the chimney, but it is possible to expand it. For example, when installing a sandwich chimney for a stove with a chimney outlet diameter of 115 mm, you can use pipes with a diameter of 120 mm, but the use of a chimney with a cross section of 110 mm is strictly prohibited;
Horizontal sections of the chimney should have a length of no more than 1 m;
The chimney elements must be mounted in such a way that their connection points do not coincide with the sections of the ceiling and roof passages;
The installation of bends and tees must be carried out in such a way that they do not bear the load from the weight of the chimney elements that are installed above it.

How to install a sandwich chimney: step-by-step guide

How to choose the dimensions of chimneys: we make the necessary calculations

Before you begin installing a sandwich chimney with your own hands, you need to know the following parameters:

The cross-sectional size of the chimney pipe;
The length of the chimney pipe.

The cross-sectional size of the pipe is determined in accordance with construction rules and regulations (SNiP). They are calculated as follows:

If the thermal output does not exceed 3.5 kW, the calculations are as follows: 0.14 m x 0.14 m;
If the thermal power is in the range from 3.5 kW to 5.2 kW, the cross-section should be characterized by the following parameters: 0.14 m x 0.2 m;
For thermal power values from 5.2 kW to 7 kW, cross-sectional dimensions 0.14 m x 0.27 m.

Important! As can be seen from previous calculations, the cross-sectional dimensions directly depend on the thermal power. After reviewing the above parameters, you will be able to select the most optimal cross-sectional dimensions of the pipes for the chimney. Having given preference to a round cross-section, you should know that its dimensions must be equivalent to those of a rectangular one.

The length of the chimney pipe is also calculated in accordance with building rules and regulations (SNiP):

SNiP 41-03-2001 states that the minimum height of pipes that trap smoke must be at least 500 cm;
Chimneys must be installed above the ridge of the house by at least 50 cm;
If the roof is made of flammable materials, the pipe must be removed from the ridge or parapet at a distance of 1 to 1.5 m;

Nuances that must be taken into account during the installation process

The installation of the chimney should start from the heating device, after which it gradually moves upward. To produce it according to all the rules, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:

Chimneys must be characterized by the absence of ledges;
The temperature of the gases carried through the outlet pipe should not be higher than 500 degrees;
The maximum angle of pipe outlet should not exceed 30 degrees;
Sections of the pipe located at an angle must be free of roughness, and their cross-sectional area must be no less than that of the vertical ones;
It would not be superfluous to install a deflector, umbrella or other attachments that protect the chimney from precipitation, but they should not prevent the free exit of smoke from the chimney;

Important! The chimney must be installed in such a way that the gas pipeline, electrical wiring and other communications do not come into contact with it.

The chimney originates from the fireplace or stove. First of all, it is necessary to connect the pipe of the heating device to the first link of the chimney and close it with a plug so that the insulation protruding from it is not noticeable and steam does not escape from it;

The pipes are inserted into one another. To perform this manipulation, you need to carefully examine the pipe, after which you will notice that one of its ends is characterized by a smaller diameter. This end must be inserted into the next pipe;

Important! During the installation of the chimney, make sure that the pipe links are assembled in such a way that the condensate formed during their operation flows down unhindered.

It must be remembered that the sandwich chimney installation technology involves joining both the outer and inner pipes, which is often associated with some difficulties. In this regard, a simpler method for assembling sandwich pipes was developed, according to which it is necessary to extend the inner pipes by 15 cm and connect them, and then join the outer pipes;

Strengthening the formed joint. To carry out this manipulation, it is necessary to prepare a steel clamp and, wrapping it around the joint, tighten the clamp using bolts, nuts or wire;

The next stage involves applying a sealant to the pipe that retains its performance characteristics at temperatures up to 1000 degrees;

The sandwich chimney assembly is complete. Working according to the above principle, it is necessary to secure the tee, corner, umbrella and tip. Every 2 m of pipe, it is necessary to fasten the chimney to the wall using brackets. To reduce the load placed on the structure, the tee locations are also secured using brackets.

Important! A chimney, the installation of which was carried out by hand, requires the arrangement of a retreat. The setback is the space between the wall and the smoke duct, the value of which is calculated according to the table below.

If the retreat is located in the walls that cover it, then two openings with different levels, equipped with gratings, must be installed above the stove. The minimum cross-sectional area of each hole must be at least 150 square meters. cm. In the process of installing a closed setback, it is necessary to take into account that the floor in it is mounted from non-combustible materials and should be located 7 cm higher relative to the floor of the room.

Installation of a chimney in places of contact with the house

How to pass floors

The floors (ceiling) must be subjected to so-called cutting. In those places where the chimney comes into contact with the structural elements of the house, it is necessary to install a special chimney unit, which is a passage pipe or a box with a hole inside. It must be remembered that the size of the cut should be 7 cm greater than the thickness of the passable floor. The cutting is designed to protect the flammable structure from fire.

Important! Refuse to rigidly connect the cutting to the structure. The pipe in the branch pipe must be characterized by the absence of joints.

In the ceiling, prepare a hole for the chimney and mark it with a marker, double-checking the accuracy of your calculations several times. After making sure that the pipe is correctly positioned in the ceiling and checking the dimensions of the pipe with the marked marks, proceed to cutting.

Experts recommend covering the pipe from the inside and outside with a foil-coated basalt mat with fire-resistant mastic. The hole itself must also be insulated with mineral wool insulation at the points of contact with the pipe.

Install the flow pipe into the prepared hole and check the verticality of the installed pipe. If it is not strictly vertical, it must be leveled.

The roof, like the ceiling, is passed through a special link, which at this stage is called “roof cutting”. To choose the right one, you need to know the angle of the roof.

It is necessary to prepare a hole in the roof for the chimney, which is also done using a marker and is carefully checked. It is necessary to cut a hole from the inside of the roof.

A galvanized metal sheet with a hole for the pipe is placed on the inside of the roof, after which the pipe is removed and the sheet is secured on the inside. A “roof trim” is installed on top of the roof. If the need arises, a metal roof cutting sheet is placed under the edge of the roof or ridge. Next, you need to install the required number of links to the required height of the chimney and secure the umbrella.

To get a more complete, from a practical point of view, answer to the question: “How to make a sandwich chimney?”, Watch the video below.

Sandwich chimneys video

The appearance of chimneys made from sandwich pipes raised many questions among inexperienced developers, especially the elderly. They constantly react with great caution to new technologies, give preference to traditional solutions and consider only them to be the most correct, time-tested and with numerous users. But this is not always the case; new building materials and technologies can significantly simplify the process of building a house, improve its performance, reduce costs, increase safety, etc. Such technologies also include chimneys made from sandwich pipes.

In order to better understand the installation technology, you need to become a little familiar with the operational parameters and technical characteristics of modern chimneys.

The chimney must meet two main requirements: guarantee the necessary draft and be safe from a fire point of view. The installation of any chimney, including those made from sandwich pipes, must necessarily meet these requirements; it is with their implementation that work should begin.

How to choose the diameter and location of the chimney

The amount of thrust depends on several factors.

These are the main regulatory requirements, but there are also fire safety standards. All of them are based on the fact that wooden structures located next to pipes cannot heat above +400°C. It is at this temperature that wood ignites. Specific distances are not regulated; it all depends on the temperature of the exhaust gases. The distance is influenced by the power and efficiency of the boiler, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, the height of the ceiling and attic, the temperature outside, etc. The science that describes these dependencies is called heat engineering and belongs to one of the most complex branches of physics.

What to consider when choosing a chimney

As mentioned above, the task of the chimney is to safely heat residential premises. Pipe parameters depend on many factors and must be taken into account. Otherwise, no matter how the chimney is installed, it will be impossible to use stove heating; you will have to buy new sandwich pipes and redo everything. What to look for when choosing a specific chimney?

Parameter	Short description
	High-quality sandwich pipes for chimneys should be made only from alloyed heat-resistant and stainless steel. The steel grade is selected taking into account the gas temperature; the higher it is, the more heat-resistant the steel should be. For gas temperatures within +1000°C, AISI 304 steel is used, for a wood-burning boiler (gas temperature up to +600°C) AISI321 steel is needed. Practical advice. Never buy pipes made from AISI 409 or AISI 430 steel. They are not only susceptible to high temperatures, but are also corroded by acids very quickly. And in smoke there are quite a lot of chemical elements that, when combined with condensate, form sulfuric and hydrochloric acids. Such low-quality pipes are sold by counterfeit Chinese companies and some domestic ones.
	Heating boilers can be wood, coal or gas fired. The temperature of the gases and the concentration of acids depend on the type of fuel. A coal boiler produces the most acid, and it also has the highest gas temperature. For this boiler you need to select a sandwich pipe made of the highest quality alloy steel. Practical advice. Modern boilers have high efficiency, which means that they transfer the maximum amount of thermal energy to the coolant. As a result, the gas temperature is relatively low; in all modern boilers it does not exceed +400–500°C. The main problem for pipes is acids.
	Pressed mineral wool is used as thermal insulation. The thickness of the thermal insulation is within 2–5 cm; the thicker it is, the lower the heating temperature of the outer pipe. And this is of great importance when arranging passages through the wooden structures of the house.

A wide variety of manufactured pipes and additional elements for them allows you to create chimneys of varying complexity. To increase traction, a deflector can be additionally mounted, fire safety is ensured by a spark arrester, the outlet hole is covered by a thermal fungus, etc.

Each additional element of the device has its own purpose and performs a specific function, thereby increasing the reliability of using chimneys made from sandwich pipes.

The lining of the pipes on the roof is done using conical elements and aprons; the chimneys are supported in a vertical position by unloading platforms and metal brackets.

Various manufacturers may slightly expand or shorten the list of additional elements, change their appearance or design features, but these differences hardly change the installation technology.

For example, we will take the option of installing a chimney on the roof of a gazebo, the chimney is connected to a stationary barbecue. The technology for performing work on a residential building, gazebo, bathhouse or other outbuilding is no different. We specifically chose a gazebo; using this example, it is possible to talk about all the nuances of installation. You can skip some operations on the house, it all depends on the specific architectural features of the building.

But they indicate only the minimum height, and there is also the concept of air flow speed. This parameter has a huge impact on the efficiency of boilers. If it is too large, then the thermal energy does not have time to be transferred to the heat exchanger, which significantly reduces the efficiency of the boiler. Another problem is that too strong a draft can completely extinguish the burners of gas boilers. Such unpleasant situations arise in large cottages, when the boiler is installed in the basement technical room or on the first floor, and the building itself has two or more floors.

In these cases, only a professional heating engineer can help; he will select the optimal chimney diameter depending on the specific conditions. The fact is that the parameters of SNiPs are outdated; they are used for brickwork, and there are completely different air flow resistance coefficients than those of perfectly smooth stainless steel pipes.

Sandwich chimney prices

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney made of sandwich pipes

The gazebo does not have a ceiling, so we will not consider this operation. The installation is done in two stages: preparatory and installation. The roof of the gazebo is flat, covered with flexible tiles. The sheathing is continuous, made of moisture-resistant OSB.

Preparing for chimney installation

Our barbecue has two chimneys: one from the stove and the second directly from the hood of the barbecue, it is technologically impossible to combine them into one, you will have to make two. Another problem is that the chimney from the stove is located exactly opposite the rafter, it needs to be sawed. To ensure that the roof structure does not lose its original stability, the sawn rafters should be connected with metal corners, and a circle should be welded in the middle. The diameter of the circle should be several millimeters larger than the diameter of the outer pipe of the sandwich chimney.

If such a problem arises during the installation of a chimney in a residential building, then cutting the rafter leg is strictly prohibited. You should try to move the boiler a little. If for some reason this is not possible, then you will have to bend the chimney; special additional elements are sold for this.

Step 1. Locate the center of the chimney on the roof. To do this, you will need a long building level or an ordinary plumb line. If it is not there, then tie a nut or bolt to a rope, this will be an elementary plumb line; the accuracy of such a tool is quite sufficient for the measurements being taken. Place the plumb line against the roof and move it until the weight is in the center of the chimney. You can control the position by eye. If in doubt, find the center of the chimney pipe by placing two sticks along the diameter at an angle of 90°. The point where the sticks intersect will be the center of the pipe. Draw a dot on the roof with a pencil.

Step 2. Drill a through hole in the marked place, making sure that the drill does not move during operation. The hole will indicate on the roof the center of the location of the hole for the chimney pipe.

Step 3. Now you need to go to the roof of the building. Due to the fact that the soft tiles have already been laid, some of them will have to be dismantled. Using a thin metal putty knife, carefully lift up the soft shingle shingles.

By the way, you will immediately see that the adhesive strength of the shingles is not as reliable as the manufacturers of mastics and bitumen shingles advertise.

Step 4. Lift the sheets of tiles a little and use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw.

If the tiles are fixed with nails, then pulling them out is much easier with a special nail puller. Remove the first shingle. Using the same procedure, remove all shingles from the area of the roof where the chimneys will exit.

At this point the preparatory work is completed, you can begin to install the chimney pipe.

Installation of a chimney on the roof

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

A few words need to be said about the fire distance between the pipe and the wooden elements of the roof. Nobody makes accurate calculations in each specific case; it is very difficult and time-consuming. Practitioners say that if the height of the attic space is at least 1.5 meters and it is unheated, then the sandwich chimney pipe does not need to be further insulated from the sheathing or rafters. The outer surfaces of the chimney never heat up more than two hundred degrees, and this temperature is safe for wood. But for insurance and to avoid problems with firefighters, it is recommended to make a retreat from wooden structures of at least 20 cm around the entire perimeter. This is not very difficult and will eliminate possible claims from the commission during the commissioning of the building.

Step 1. Open the packaging of the pass-through element. The passage element is made of polypropylene; modified heat-resistant rubber is used to seal the pipe.

Step 2. Cut a hole in the rubber to match the diameter of the pipe. It has concentric rings indicating the different diameters. Find the one you need and remove the extra part. You can cut with an ordinary sharp knife, try to make the cut as even as possible. If you have large scissors, that’s great; working with them is much easier and safer.

Step 3. There are circles on the walkway indicating the slope of the roof. This is done to ensure that the chimney pipe on any roof is strictly vertical. It is necessary to cut off the circle that corresponds to the angle of inclination of the roof slope. The penetration is made of polypropylene; it cannot be cut with ordinary scissors; you must use special ones for metal or pruning shears.

Cutting the penetration with pruning shears

Step 4. Locate the hole that was drilled from the inside of the gazebo, this hole indicates the location of the center of the chimney. Place the penetration on the continuous sheathing so that it is in the middle of the element. Draw a line with a pencil or felt-tip pen to create a circle for cutting. If you have several chimney outlets on your roof, then such actions must be done for each.

Step 5. Use an electric jigsaw to cut the hole. To do this, you should first drill holes for the nail file with a drill, and only then insert the tool into it and work. Be careful that the saw does not come into contact with metal hardware; they should be pulled out or bypassed.

Step 6. Attach the passage element and secure it to the plate with self-tapping screws. If you wish, then for peace of mind you can place the passage element on any sealant; the squeezed-out excess should be carefully removed with your finger.

Step 7 Reinstall the chimney. Individual pipes can be additionally tightened together with clamps.

It is recommended that on soft, flammable roofs, be sure to cover the pipe with a tip with a spark arrestor. This is especially important for a wood-burning boiler. If the top has a deflector, great; with a side wind, the draft will increase, which eliminates the formation of reverse draft.

Step 8 Replace the rubber weather stripping to prevent rain from flowing through the pipes and under the roof. The casing has a special mark indicating in which position to put it on. The mark should face forward towards the roof ridge.

Step 9 Tighten the casing tightly to the pipe with a clamp, using sealant as desired.

At this point, the installation of the chimney is completed; the previously dismantled roof can be returned to its place.

Step 1. Install the underlayment strips. It is pushed around the perimeter into a special slot in the passage element.

Step 2. Begin reinstalling the previously removed shingles. In the places adjacent to the passage element, cut the tiles so that they overlap the contour of the element by 2–3 cm.

Laying soft tiles is done in the usual way using bitumen mastic to seal the joints.

Installing Master Flash

Prices for roofing master flash

This device has a perimeter edging made of aluminum sheet, the edging is hermetically sealed into a rubber gasket. Due to this technological feature, the element copies the roofing profile with maximum accuracy, and the likelihood of leaks is minimized.

How to install Master Flash correctly?

Step 1. Coat the perimeter of the outer chimney pipe with soapy water. This is done in order to tightly place the rubber apron on the chimney.

But this can only be done if the diameter of the hole on the apron is 2–3 cm smaller than the diameter of the pipe. If the parameters differ more, then the rubber will have to be trimmed a little. For this purpose, manufacturers made special rings on it indicating the diameters. There is no need to try to stretch the apron too much. Rubber cannot remain in such a tense state for a long time; over time, it will definitely begin to tear. As a result, leaks will appear, and they will be so strong that to eliminate them you will have to completely change the master flush.

Step 2. Give aluminum the profile of the roof roof. You can do this with your hands, a rubber hammer or a mallet. Start bending from the middle, and then move symmetrically to the edges. If you do the opposite, the last waves will be stretched out, and you will have to start all over again.

Step 3. Apply silicone or other sealant to the area of the roof that is located under the master flush. Do not spare the material, especially carefully coat the upper part of the element and those places where water drains.

Practical advice. If the house is located in the southern regions of our country, and the penetration is black, then you need to use special sealants. The fact is that on bright sunny days the surface of the master flush heats up to a temperature exceeding +100°C, and ordinary sealants can withstand no more than +80°C.

The lower part of the element does not need to be coated with sealant; water will not flow upward. But for guarantee and personal peace of mind, it is recommended to apply a silent sealant.

Step 4. Screw the element to the roof. To do this, use special screws. Make sure that the sealant protrudes from under the aluminum plate along the entire perimeter. Screw the screws into the lower waves first, and only then into the upper ones. This fixation technology increases the tightness of the connection of elements.

Step 5. Gently remove any excess sealant with your finger. There is no need to leave it on a lot or spread it in a thin layer over a large surface of the roofing, this will not help increase the service life of the joint. The fact is that after 3-4 years, the smeared thin layer of sealant will definitely peel off from the roof, and water will begin to get into the gap. Only the material that is between the aluminum plate and the roof covering ensures a tight connection.

It is important to know that tightness does not depend on the thickness of the protruding material; durability is affected only by its quality and degree of adhesion. As for resistance to ultraviolet rays, these are not critical indicators; the sealant is protected by an aluminum sheet. It is more important to look at frost resistance.

Step 6. Apply sealant around the perimeter of the pipe between the wall and the rubber cap.

Applying sealant between the wall and the rubber cap

Replace the pipe cap and tighten the clamp.

If all the work is done correctly and high-quality materials are used, then there will be no problems with the chimney for many years of operation.

Video – Flash Master. Installation

Before starting the assembly and installation of a chimney made of stainless steel, experienced specialists carry out preparatory installation work. To do this, experts suggest using a special type of sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 100 0 C. It is with this substance that all seams and subsequent joints in the internal cavity of the chimney pipes will need to be treated.

In addition, the sealant serves as an additional guarantee of the tightness of the product, because in some cases even welding can “retreat”. There is no need to use sealant on the outer surface of a stainless steel chimney. Read the review of stainless steel sandwich chimneys.

How to assemble?

The main rule to remember when assembling is to treat the connecting elements of the stainless steel chimney pipe with special care and precision. The entire structure must be strengthened with additional elements in the form of clamps. If the chimney is purchased, then all elements must be included. Clamps are placed at each joint of the product - this is approximately every 1.5-2 meters.

In order to assemble a stainless steel chimney, it is necessary to take into account many nuances. In the event that actual experience is not enough, then you need to take the advice of professionals. If there are no such specialists around, then before assembling such a structure you need to carefully study the video material presented below.

Only if the assembly of the device is done correctly will it be possible to obtain a sealed and reliable chimney.

How to install?

In accordance with the general rules for installing stainless steel chimneys, installation should be done from bottom to top. This means that first they fix the part of the chimney that is attached to the heating device and only then move on to the remaining elements of the structure.

Then each pipe is fixed. They are mounted as follows: the side with a smaller diameter is attached to a pipe with a larger diameter. This method of forming the structure will prevent moisture and dirt from entering the internal cavity of the chimney. Read an overview of the characteristics of a galvanized steel chimney.

Attention! The maximum depth of the mounting area is 0.5 times the outer diameter of the stainless steel pipe.

The maximum size of one element of the “highway” cannot exceed one and a half meters.

At the joints of the product, clamps made of brass or stainless steel should be used. In order to fix the device, you should use special brackets and bolts marked M10 and M8.

Attention! All components of the structure should under no circumstances interact with gas pipes and the electrical wiring system.

To care for a stainless steel chimney, you need to install a small door at the very bottom of the device.

In order to simplify the entire process of installing a stainless steel chimney as much as possible, you should prepare a design diagram in advance. In addition, such a drawing will allow the owner of the building to orient himself regarding the overall dimensions of the entire structure and determine the number of all component parts of the device.

To carry out installation work on stainless steel chimneys, you must follow the instructions and use high-quality fasteners. If your own experience is not enough to install such a chimney, you can use the video material presented below:

According to experienced specialists, if even after studying the material and the advice of the experts, confidence in your own abilities has not increased, it is worth using the services of specialists. This is the only way to save your own time and money.

Sealing

As mentioned above, in order to seal the system, you need to use a special heat-resistant type of sealant. It is used to coat the inside of stainless steel pipes, but some experts argue that for maximum effect the external part of the system should also be coated. It should also be taken into account that the clamps are installed at maximum “pressure”. This is the only way to guarantee absolute tightness of the entire surface of the device as a whole.

How to clean?

Dirt in a system is the formation of a space with a high level of roughness, and this has a direct impact on the functionality of the device and the operation of the entire system.

An ash pan is also specially installed for comfortable maintenance of a stainless steel chimney. Solid combustion elements will collect in it.

A stainless steel chimney burned out, what should I do?

The service life of a stainless steel chimney can last several decades. But, troubles also happen. For example, one of the parts of the device may burn out. Repairs can be carried out in two ways:

complete replacement of the element;
local repairs.

The first option involves replacing the entire section of pipe, but the second option involves the use of additional construction equipment. The damaged area is repaired using welding. It should be reinforced with stronger metal.

Video

Watch the video for a description of the characteristics of a stainless steel chimney:

Everyone should remember that the life of household members depends on the quality of installation work. If the structure is installed and assembled incorrectly, a fire may occur, which will subsequently lead to a fire. You need to be as careful and careful as possible.

Correct installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands - assembly diagram. Instructions on how to assemble and install a stainless steel chimney How to install a stainless steel chimney

Procedure for installing a metal chimney

Performing a pipe passage through the roof

Pipe passing through a wall

Types of chimneys

Features of chimneys made of different materials

Scope of application of a brick chimney

Advantages of using ceramic chimneys

Characteristics and types of steel chimneys

Installation of an external chimney for a boiler

Installation of chimney using sandwich panels

Features of using sandwich pipes for baths

Preliminary calculations

Length calculation

Location

Installation sequence

For a solid fuel boiler, a brick chimney

How to install chimneys made of stainless steel or cast iron

Stages of chimney installation

Correct installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands

Installation of an external chimney

Design features of a sandwich chimney

Types of chimney pipes

Technical characteristics of sandwich pipes

Installation of the structure

Rules for performing work

Installation

Chimney in the bathhouse

Material from which pipes are made

Why finish the pipe?

What to rely on when developing a project

Pros and cons of using a sandwich chimney

Three options for independently arranging a chimney outside

Option number 1: we arrange a brick pipe

Option No. 2: frame installation

Option No. 3: ready-made solutions

Design Features

What should be the height of the chimney?

Structural elements and their features

Second phase. Chimney outlet

Option No. 1: output through the wall

Option No. 2: output through the roof

Main advantages

Types of pipes

Single wall pipes

Corrugated pipes

Sandwich systems

Range of modules

Material selection

Chimney design

Installation features

Construction of sandwich chimneys: design features

Main components of a sandwich chimney system

Advantages and disadvantages of sandwich chimneys

Main types of sandwich chimneys: brief description

Stainless steel sandwich chimneys

Ceramic sandwich chimneys

The most current methods of connecting sandwich pipes for chimneys: brief description

What must be observed during the installation of a chimney made of sandwich pipes?

How to install a sandwich chimney: step-by-step guide

How to choose the dimensions of chimneys: we make the necessary calculations

Nuances that must be taken into account during the installation process

Installation of a chimney in places of contact with the house

How to choose the diameter and location of the chimney

What to consider when choosing a chimney

Sandwich chimney prices

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney made of sandwich pipes

Preparing for chimney installation

Installation of a chimney on the roof

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Installing Master Flash

Prices for roofing master flash

Video – Flash Master. Installation

How to assemble?

How to install?

Sealing

How to clean?

A stainless steel chimney burned out, what should I do?

Video

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