Retaining wall on the site: device, materials, features. Master Class. Wall configuration Do-it-yourself retaining walls

When choosing a place for a country house, a garden and a vegetable garden, future summer residents often prefer flat areas on which excavation will require a minimum of effort. However, a retaining wall on a site with a slope easily turns uneven terrain into advantages, and a little theoretical preparation will help create a unique landscape with your own hands.

Buying a land plot is a responsible decision. Depends on the features of the relief:

ease of use of the allotment;
strength and cost of erected buildings;
the area that can be allocated for garden plantings and garden beds.

A plot dotted with ravines or located on a slope scares inexperienced summer residents. To build a house or a small one, it will take a lot of time, effort and money to level the territory and protect it from landslides.

Purpose of retaining walls

Can these problems be avoided? Landscape designers and experienced summer residents know how to turn the weaknesses of a site on rough terrain into advantages. It is only necessary not to destroy, but to fix the slopes. What is a retaining wall for?

If at the planning stage to provide for such structures made of stone, concrete, wood or other materials, significant labor costs can be dispensed with.

Well thought out designs:

preserve the natural charm of the site;
save the nutrient layer of the soil from all types of erosion;
will help organize a terraced system of ridges and flower beds, which optimizes the territory and divides it into functional zones.

Low retaining walls on a site with a slope, at the request of the owner, can turn into a base for stairs or become. Protective structures look great as a frame for a flower garden or a secluded recreation area.

Retaining wall materials

In open spaces, plants are widely used to combat wind and water erosion. Trees and shrubs with a tenacious root system braid the slopes, preventing ravines from growing, changing the landscape and losing the fertile soil layer.

In a limited area of \u200b\u200bthe cottage, such the use of perennials is not a very good solution. Plants not only take up a lot of precious space, but also shade a significant area. Yes, and wait until they grow up, it will take more than one year. It is much easier and more profitable to use traditional building materials for the installation of retaining walls in the country:

brick;
natural stone of different breeds;
concrete;
tree.

They are great for building a retaining wall on the site with your own hands. However, when calculating the structure, it must be remembered that the wall must stand for more than one year, withstanding:

the impact of moisture entering the soil;
own weight of the structure;
soil weight at any time of the year;
annual temperature fluctuations and the influence of other external factors.

Each of the options has its own specifics, pros and cons, as well as common features. This applies to the support device, in addition to the wall, which includes a reliable foundation and drainage, which ensures the outflow of excess moisture.

Wooden retaining wall

If the design of the site and the house shows the features of the "rustic" style and emphasizes the connection with nature, a retaining wall made of wood is an excellent choice. The easiest and most reliable way to build a dense palisade is from vertically standing logs tightly fitted to each other, the lower part of which is dug into the ground and rests on a cushion of rubble.

To strengthen the slopes, strong, thick logs are suitable, which are pre-dried and treated with compounds to protect against pests and decay. When choosing a material, you need to consider that a third of a solid wall should be underground.

Work on the device of the retaining wall in the country begins with the laying of trenches. They are dug 10-15 cm deeper than the underground part of the logs, and the width is 20 cm more than their diameter. This is necessary to create a foundation, and laying waterproofing.

The gravel pad at the bottom of the trench is compacted, then prepared logs are placed on it. You can fix them together using wire, screws or nails of a suitable length. Backfilling with sand, broken bricks or crushed stone helps to maintain a vertical position in the ground. Heavy high structures are best fixed with a sand-cement mixture.

To prevent contact of the tree with wet soil, the back of the wall is insulated with a sheet of roofing material or other similar material. The gap between the structure and the soil is filled with drainage, pipes are removed to drain moisture.

The denser, heavier the soil and the higher the wall, the more massive and stronger it should be. Incorrect structural design can cause weakening of the structure. Special measures to strengthen the retaining walls will help to avoid collapse.

A horizontal "tyn" made of wood is constructed in a similar way. The role of supports for it is played by vertically dug-in poles at regular intervals.

How to make a stone retaining wall

Water and wind-beaten boulders, angular chipped stone, pliable limestone and incredibly hard basalt. These materials are not only durable, but also fit perfectly into any landscape. Not surprisingly, a stone retaining wall on a sloping site is one of the most sought-after options.

Depending on the design, purpose, type of soil and the stone chosen for the construction, they use:

dry laying with filling the gaps between the elements with soil;
traditional cement mortar for bonding stones.

Before making a retaining wall of cobblestone, prepare the foundation for the structure. First, they dig a trench under the foundation, construct the formwork, and then fill it with liquid concrete so that another 15 cm remains to the ground level.

In order for the base to guarantee the strength of a heavy support, it is made three times wider than the wall, and after pouring it is allowed to stand and harden for several days.

A do-it-yourself retaining wall built from boulders can be vertical or slightly sloping. The first row is laid from the largest stones, in the future, the cobblestones are selected in size and shape so that the wall is as dense and durable as possible.
The space between the stones and the slope is covered with drainage.

Before making a retaining wall of stones fastened with mortar, it is better to wash the cobblestones. This will significantly improve the adhesion of the material and give the structure additional strength.

Increasingly, rubble stone is used to strengthen slopes. Pieces that are heterogeneous in size and shape are not easy to fasten together. Therefore, in the construction of a retaining wall made of rubble with their own hands, gabions will become.

These are container-like structures made of durable metal mesh. They greatly simplify labor-intensive work, depending on the size of the cells, they are suitable for both large stones and crushed stone. Between themselves, individual gabions are fastened with wire, and roofing material or geotextile is laid between the wall and the ground.

Brick retaining wall on a sloping site

Laying a retaining wall made of bricks differs little from building a wall of a house. The strength of the structure is provided by a concrete foundation, the thickness of the structure is chosen based on its height, climatic conditions and the characteristics of the slope to be strengthened and decorated.

For example, for a half-meter height, laying half a brick is enough, and it is better to lay out a support above a meter from one and a half bricks, not forgetting about drainage. The tubes are laid at regular intervals between the first and second layer of bricks.
The space between the wall and the reinforced slope is filled with crushed stone.

Building blocks are a good alternative to durable but expensive bricks. They are not only cheaper, but also larger, which simplifies and speeds up the work.

With a properly erected foundation, a do-it-yourself retaining wall made of blocks is very durable, but less decorative. But such a structure can be decorated with facing stone or tiles.

How to make a concrete retaining wall

Concrete structures are a kind of standard of strength. Such retaining walls will help to retain large volumes of soil, give the landscape solidity, monumentality.

How to make a concrete retaining wall? In order for the design to meet expectations, for it:

prepare a trench for the foundation,
a crushed stone pillow is poured at the bottom;
reinforced with a metal rod;
make a formwork filled with concrete mix.

An obligatory element of a do-it-yourself concrete retaining wall is drainage. The cavity remaining between the structure and the slope is filled with rubble, broken bricks or gravel. This layer prevents soil erosion during the rainy season and when snow melts. And the tubes brought out through the concrete layer remove excess moisture.

To hide the monotonous gray color, designers suggest using tiles, natural stone or living climbing plants. Visually aging concrete allows surface treatment with kefir. Lactic acid fungi and bacteria promote moss growth, which helps blend the wall into the landscape.

Retaining walls in the garden - video

Not every owner can boast of a perfectly even relief, hence the conclusion - retaining walls on the site are an absolutely indispensable element that can become not only a good decoration for your garden, but also a structure that divides it into zones.

The process of erecting a retaining wall with your own hands is not complicated; during it, you can realize a variety of landscape design fantasies. In this article, we will consider all the important nuances when building a retaining wall with our own hands.

The device and functions of retaining walls

Retaining wall designs may differ from each other, since each performs its own function - fortifying or decorative, and each is designed for a certain degree of impact, however, the "backbone" of the wall is the same, it consists of the following main elements:

Foundation - underground part

It is he who can withstand the brunt of the pressure of the soil.

Body - ground part

The inner side of the wall "contacts" with the ground, circling a hill on the site. The outer side (front) is open, it can be flat or oblique.

Drainage and drainage - protective communications

During the design of the structure, it is imperative to provide ways to remove excess water and moisture, which will accumulate behind its inner surface all the time.

Retaining walls simultaneously combine several functions:

perfectly produce zoning of the site;
perfectly transform and become a decorative and artistic element of the landscape;
perform an unsurpassed strengthening and protective function;
solve the problem of unevenness of the site.

Parameters on which the stability of a retaining wall depends

The retaining wall should be as stable as possible, capable of withstanding high pressure, otherwise there is a huge probability of destruction of the structure and slipping of the soil. Therefore, all factors affecting its strength should be calculated.

The following physical forces act on the wall:

erection own weight;
soil pressure held by the wall;
forces of friction and adhesion to the soil;
additional weight of elements that may be on it.

Phenomena affecting the design:

soil swelling in winter;
wind (if the wall height is more than 2 m);
vibrations (if, for example, a railway is laid nearby);
seismic phenomena (depending on the characteristics of the region)
washing with rain water.

Another factor affecting the stability of a structure is the wall thickness. It depends on the type of soil and the height of the structure - the softer the soil and the greater the height of the support, the wider the protective “shield” should be.

Key aspects when organizing a retaining wall

Retaining walls are a complex engineering structure, therefore, when arranging it, a number of factors should be taken into account, on which their strength, reliability and durability depend. Of course, it is better to entrust this matter to specialists, however, having certain specific skills and knowing all the conditions under which it is possible to build a support, you can independently build a structure.

The construction of retaining walls is possible only on stable soils - crushed stone, clay, gravel, sandy loam, etc.
For successful arrangement, it is important that the level of soil freezing becomes no more than 1.5 m from the surface of the earth.
Groundwater should pass below 1 m, and preferably 1.5 m from the surface of the earth.
With self-arrangement, it must be remembered that the ground part of the retaining wall should not exceed 1.4 m. For the construction of a higher supporting structure, it is better to turn to professionals, since this requires special calculations that take into account soil pressure and its mobility.

Underground part - types and arrangement of the foundation

A retaining wall, in which the height becomes more than 30 cm, must necessarily have a reliable foundation.
The general rule when organizing the foundation: the softer and more unstable the soil, the deeper the foundation should be.

The desired proportions of the depth of the foundation and the height of the support, depending on the friability of the soil:

If the soil is sufficiently dense, then the ratio of the depth of the foundation and the height of the aboveground part should be 1:4, respectively.
If the earth is of medium looseness, then the depth of the foundation becomes 1/3 of the height of the support.
If the soil is loose, soft, then the depth of the foundation of the wall should be ½ of its height.

The foundation may consist of gravel, crushed stone, concrete, compacted with cement or heavy clay.

Drainage, drainage and waterproofing - the guarantor of the reliability and durability of the retaining wall

When equipping a support, it is not enough to provide a high-quality foundation and securely install a retaining wall on it, it is very important to protect the structure from the back from excessive moisture, which has a devastating effect on it.

Regardless of the material, size and shape of the retaining wall, in order to prevent the accumulation of water and moisture, which have a devastating effect on the structure, it is imperative to organize drainage and drainage, as well as, if necessary, waterproofing the inside of the support.

Drainage organization

The drainage of the retaining wall is divided into transverse, longitudinal and combined.

The transverse organization of drainage means the installation of holes in each 2nd or third row of masonry with a diameter of not more than 10 cm or pipes at an angle so that the water immediately leaves the site.

With a longitudinal drainage system, as it is often called underground, a corrugated, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm is laid along the retaining wall under the soil at the foundation level, wrapped in geotextile material that absorbs water, which subsequently enters through small holes into the pipe and drained outside the terrace.

To prevent atmospheric water from entering the masonry structure, which at sub-zero temperatures will lead to the destruction of the retaining wall, it is necessary to provide a visor or cornice block with a certain slope.

Drainage layer between soil and wall

After assembling the wall and several days of its downtime, it is necessary to proceed to filling the space between the slope and the wall itself. Coarse-clastic soils, for example, gravel, pebbles, coarse sand, are best suited for this. Also, small pieces of brick and other waste materials are often used for this. Not taking into account the fact that gravel exerts considerable pressure on the support, it serves as an additional drainage layer.

Drainage mixtures and soil are filled in layers, where each individual layer is rammed. Coarse-clastic soils and sandy loamy sands are considered more preferable.

On the top of the laying material, it is best to use vegetable soil. After the last layer of the retaining wall has been compacted, it must be left in this state for several weeks without giving it loads. Thanks to this, the reinforcing material will gain all its properties. It is very important to lay on top the previously removed soil layer, in which there is enough humus. Having done all the above work, you can safely proceed to the arrangement of the terrace.

Waterproofing - additional reliability and durability of the structure

To increase the service life of retaining wooden, brick, metal, concrete walls, their waterproofing from the soil is necessary. To do this, you can use the following materials: roofing felt or roofing felt, applied in two layers. It is also possible with dry soils to coat the inner surface with bitumen or mastic.

Do-it-yourself materials for making retaining walls

First of all, before choosing a material for a retaining wall, you should clearly understand its purpose. In the description above, it was already said that the retaining wall can be a fortifying structure, as well as a decorative component of a garden plot.

If the retaining wall is to serve as a reinforcing element of a steep incline or terrain, it is best to use natural stone or concrete for its construction. For example, the area, which is located next to the railway, is constantly subject to ground vibrations, and under such pressure, more fragile materials will very quickly lose their properties, which will ultimately greatly affect the reliability of the wall.

That's when the retaining wall is installed in order to add a decorative element and is not subjected to physical stress, then gabions, wood or brick can be used as a material.

Wooden retaining walls

This type of retaining wall is considered cheap to install, but the installation process itself is not that easy and takes the most time. To create and install it, you will initially need smooth, high-quality wood. A more simplified method of erection is the vertical arrangement of logs, tightly fitted to each other. A log in diameter from 12 to 18 cm in diameter is considered the most optimal for wooden supporting walls. The height of the log depends on how high the supporting wall you are going to build. When deciding on your height, do not forget to take into account the fact that at least 50-60 cm will have to be spent as a retaining wall, burying this part in the ground.

The logs are arranged strictly vertically and right up to each other. From above, they must be tightly wrapped with wire, and to prevent displacement, you can also connect them with nails. To ensure maximum stability after fixing the logs, the trench is completely filled with concrete.

To prevent the wood from rotting, part of which will be permanently in the ground, it is best to lubricate it with engine oil.

The next method - the "fence" is more difficult to erect, since in it vertical logs are established at certain intervals. Special holes are created in which, tightly to each other, logs with a smaller diameter are installed.

To create it, you need high-quality and even logs, as rotten wood will very quickly turn your efforts and time into a complete disappointment. Most often, the simplest option is used - vertically arranged logs that are tightly joined to each other. The recommended trunk diameter is the same as the above method, but the part that goes into the ground is slightly smaller and is 40-50 cm. This is long enough that in the spring they stand firmly and do not move when the earth usually absorbs moisture by several times more.

concrete retaining wall

This design is considered the most durable and solid. The process of its construction begins with the fact that you need to dig a trench, which along the perimeter will be an exact reflection of the wall. The depth of the trench depends on the height of your wall.

We lay a mixture of gravel and crushed stone at the bottom of the trench, then the reinforcement, which we fix with a connected wire, and only then we remove the formwork. We make formwork from boards, the thickness of which is not less than 25 mm and not more than 45 mm. With the help of screeds or nails, we give the structure a fortress, so that in the future it does not crumble, deforming the concrete. Under the pressure of the mixture, the side walls of the formwork can bend, and in order to prevent them, we hammer metal rods with an interval of up to 1.5 meters.

After all the preparatory work on the reinforcing part of the retaining wall, pour the concrete evenly. A few days later, when the wall is formed, the formwork can be removed and, if there are irregularities, trim them with plaster.

The transition to the next level is facing works, in which everyone chooses the material to their taste.

Brick support

The technology of laying a brick wall is the same as in conventional construction. The only difference between them is the reduced thickness of the structure. A wall not exceeding a meter in height is laid out with a half brick, if higher, then with a whole one. The facing material for a brick wall is the same as for a concrete wall.

A foundation is needed for this structure, and the depth of its foundation will depend entirely on the final height of the wall, the composition of the soil and the degree of its freezing. As for the width, as a rule, it is 20-30 cm more from the retaining wall itself.

In the process of building a wall, it is very important to observe the ratio of length to thickness (1:3). The retaining brick wall has always been distinguished by the peculiarity of its design. Its installation cannot be considered one of the simplest, but it also does not apply to complex ones.

Retaining wall made of natural stone

Installing a stone wall requires relatively more material and physical costs, but it's worth it, since such a support looks very beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.

A big plus of a retaining wall made of stone is that previously formed earthen pockets allow plants to be planted there. Natural stone is considered the most attractive material from which you can create a retaining wall with your own hands. Basalt, granite, and syenite are considered the most common types of natural stone. To give a more ancient look to the retaining wall, you can use lime or sandstone. Quickly absorbing moisture, they are overgrown with moss, thereby creating the effect of antiquity. The width of the foundation is always more than 30 cm. Not adhering to this norm, the wall in most cases turned out to be unstable.

How to make a retaining wall on the site with your own hands - a master class

We make a retaining wall of natural stone 1 meter high with a longitudinal drainage system.

Step 1. Plot marking

Initially, we choose a place for our support - a slope near the terrace, located above ground level. Then drive in pegs at the corners of the proposed support area and pull the cord.

Step 2. trench preparation

Cut the soil along the marking contour with a garden knife and remove a small layer of earth with a shovel. Then you should immediately proceed to digging a trench 40 cm deep.

Step 3. Foundation

Carefully level and tamp the bottom of the trench. After that, a layer of concrete should be poured, the depth of which should be at least 30 cm. The proportions of the components of the concrete mixture for the foundation: 1 part concrete, 6 parts gravel and sand.

If the soil is loose, then before pouring the concrete mixture, it is necessary to build a wooden fence. The concrete pad must dry completely, this will take approximately 3 days.

Step 4. lime layer

After the foundation has completely dried, before laying the stone, a lime mixture should be applied to it with a layer of 2-3 cm. It consists of lime, sand, water and cement. For 1 part of quicklime, 3-4 parts of sand are required, and for each kilogram of this composition, 300 ml of water is needed. In order to avoid lumps, water must be added little by little. After that, cement is added in the ratio: 1 part of cement to 7 parts of the mixture.

Step 5. stone laying

Thoroughly clean the stones from dirt and moisten with water. Stones should not be laid one on one, since in this case the structure may collapse at the slightest external impact. The joint of one pair should be located in the middle of the stone of the previous row. Larger and regular-shaped stones should be laid along the edges, smaller stones will fit in the middle, while trying to find their own stable position for each.

The next row of walls is installed according to the same principle, using lime mortar. It is important that the mixture be of a minimum thickness (1-1.5 cm), otherwise too thick seams will collapse faster. In order for the structure to be more stable and durable, it is desirable that its back face be made with a slight slope towards the retained soil, about 5-10 degrees.

It is worth remembering that broken curvilinear configurations of retaining walls are more durable and reliable, since such a wall line has a reduced span and, accordingly, is exposed to less loads, and the rough surface of the back wall provides better adhesion to the ground

Step 6. Drainage and drainage

After each installed row of support between the wall and the ground, a layer of gravel with crushed stone or small pebbles should be covered, after which it is carefully rammed. After laying the second row of supports, you need to take care of the drainage pipe.

Once the retaining wall is installed, remove excess lime mortar with water, a sponge and a brush.

Retaining walls in landscape design

Initially, it should be noted that each site has its own individual shapes, sizes and topography, therefore, when arranging a retaining wall, there should be a special approach, taking into account personal preferences, taste, style of the house, garden and garden paths. For example, if the landscape has a pronounced relief, then a vertical layout will look great, which consists in dividing the site into several horizontal levels, fixed with supports. If

the land area is small, it is better to build walls up to 60 cm high, and the bushes along them will grow better. Walls that are too large will create a feeling of heaviness, but if the site involves such buildings, then they should be “diluted” with various architectural elements, for example, benches, steps, niches, etc.

The choice of retaining wall material also directly depends on specific design decisions. If you want to "elevate" the monumentality of the support, then use embossed, textured materials, install large granite stones laid with a considerable seam, or powerful logs. If, on the contrary, you want to make your relief more refined, inconspicuous and elegant, then clad the wall with small stones and plaster.

Unfortunately, the surface of a real land plot is often far from ideal and confuses the eye with its unevenness. In such situations, a wonderful solution comes to the rescue, in the form of a retaining concrete wall, which allows you to create a terrace, strengthen slopes and zone your yard.

Device, features of a concrete retaining wall

The retaining wall in its device has the following components:

Foundation- a segment of the wall that holds the main load;
Body- the wall itself;
Drainage- a drain that prevents the destruction of the wall.

Considering the main problems in the construction of retaining walls, namely the loss of stability due to soil pressure and its destruction, several types of structures and their devices should be distinguished, namely:

Thick walls - massive structures with a lot of weight;
Thin walls - includes elements that use the adjacent ground for stability and to prevent it from tipping over.

Calculation, drawings, determination of the angle of inclination of the rear wall

Correct calculations are the key to strength and reliability. To do this, you need to take into account the forces that affect its stability:

The weight of the wall itself;
Weight of additional parts;
The force with which the earth presses;
Ground bonding.

You should also pay attention to corrosion factors:

Wind (impact is directly proportional to the height of the wall);
Seismic activity and vibration of the earth (proximity of highways, railways);
Expansion of the soil in the cold season;
The harmful effects of rain water.

Retaining wall drawings:

Determining the angle of inclination of the back wall:

tg e = (b-t)/h– calculation of the maximum angle of inclination,

e is the angle of inclination of the surface to the vertical (no more than 45-j/2); b is the width of the foundation; t is the wall thickness; h is the height from the base of the foundation to the ground; j is the angle of internal friction.

You can also use the standard values of the degrees of slope: for sandy soils 36 - 43; sandy loam 18-30; loam 12-24; clay 11-18.

How to do

And so, the construction of the wall should begin with digging a trench, which will repeat the trajectory of our structure. The depth of this trench should be no more than 40 cm, provided that the wall is no more than 1 m high. After digging, you need to put a formwork of thick, dense boards fastened together. On the bottom of the pit, you need to lay out a pillow of crushed stone or gravel, place a mesh of reinforcement on top. After the work done, you can pour concrete.

It takes about 5 days for concrete to set. After 5 days, you need to remove the formwork and level the defects on the wall surface. For this we use cement mortar. After we have eliminated the defects of the retaining wall, you can proceed to the decorative cladding.

General points

How to make a retaining wall yourself? First you need to determine the purpose of the wall (decor or leveling and strengthening the terrain), material, time to work and budget.

Drainage

There are 3 types of drainage: longitudinal, transverse and combined (longitudinal-transverse):

Longitudinal - a perforated tube with a diameter of 100-150 mm is placed along the base. It should be wrapped with geotextile. It will absorb moisture and provide an unhindered outflow of water.
Transverse - holes up to 10 cm in diameter are made in the wall itself or tubes up to 5 cm in diameter are inserted under a slope to ensure unhindered outflow of water. The recommended distance between holes is 1 meter.

The space behind the retaining wall

It is recommended to leave the finished wall for several days. Then the void between the support and the slope should be filled with drainage material. Sandy soil, brick fragments, pieces of concrete, crushed stone are perfect for this. Further, on top of the laid drainage layer, pre-dug earth (preferably coarse-grained or sandy loamy sands) is filled up and laid in balls 20-40 cm thick. Each ball is rammed. At the very top is a layer of fertile soil.

In case of soil subsidence (usually after a couple of weeks), it should be added. To do this, remove the fertile upper ball and replenish the volume of drainage material to the required height. Then the top layer rich in humus should be restored.

Note! For backfilling materials such as clay, peat (including organic matter in an amount of more than 5% of the original weight) are not suitable!

Also, do not forget about the installation of drainage canopies and ditches. They will keep the masonry from getting into the seams of water, which, when frozen, can destroy them.

More about the material

The material of the future wall has both practical and decorative value. Price, assembly speed, structural reliability and aesthetic factor:

Decorative stone looks solid and expensive, it lasts a long time. Minus - high price.
A concrete wall looks boring and ordinary, but this is easily solved with the help of decorations. For this, pebbles, tiles, tile fragments are suitable. It can also be trimmed with flowers by first immuring pots with soil into the wall. Do not forget that if the concrete wall you provide is higher than 30 cm, then it certainly needs a foundation.

Based on personal preferences and practical factors, the choice of material will not be difficult for you.

Waterproofing

The surface of the wall, which is adjacent to the ground, must be covered with a waterproofing ball. An excellent solution is to use roofing felt or roofing felt, which are attached to the wall over hot mastic. With sufficient dryness of the earth, you can limit yourself only to mastic or bitumen. However, they should be applied in several layers, for reliability. Also, the modern market offers a lot of synthetic waterproofing materials.

Foundation

The foundation parameters are based on the following factors:

support dimensions;
soil type;
the depth of its freezing;
the presence of flowing groundwater. According to the depth of the laying, a shallow and deep (exceeds the width of the base by 1.5 or more times) foundation is distinguished.

In practice, 2 types of foundation are used: tape and pile. The tape block is a solid block that repeats the line of the wall, is laid at a depth of at least 60 cm.

When calculating the depth of this type of foundation, the depth of soil freezing should be taken into account.

The pile type is more reliable and stable, it is used in cases where a retaining wall is laid on loose ground, or groundwater flows under it at the place of its construction. Piles allow you to deepen the foundation by several meters or more, giving the entire structure the necessary stability and reliability.

Body

The body is the above-ground component of the prop. Its main functions:

Ensure stability - due to the mass of the structure itself and the earth;
Decorative - should provide a pleasant visual perception;

It is also necessary to single out different types of body fastening: a rigid structure (monolithic concrete blocks, brickwork) and elastic (materials that can withstand slight deformation without destruction).

Based on the design parameters, it is necessary to determine the need for a slope. If the wall height does not exceed 1.5 meters, then, as a rule, a slope is not required. If the specified value is exceeded, a slight slope will improve its visual perception.

How to decorate, decor

The retaining wall is a direct part of the backyard, it must be in harmony and be combined with the components surrounding it. And here personal tastes come to the forefront: someone prefers a rough and uncouth look, others seek to decorate the wall, to achieve its uniqueness. Solutions that can help decorate a retaining wall:

Creation with a small fence on top of the wall or near it;
Finishing the outer side of the wall with tiles, tiles or decorative stone;
Painting the wall with resistant paint - such a solution will give it the most unexpected and bold look;
Creation of small original transitions in the form of steps;
You can put flowerpots with plants on top of the wall, they can also be embedded in the wall itself in advance;
By inviting an artist, you can turn a retaining wall into a canvas by outlining it with various images.

Fantasy and previous experience show that such a practical element as a retaining wall can be easily turned into a pretty and original element of your site.

A decorative print that creates a masonry effect on a concrete surface.

Filling wall made of concrete with multi-layered effect.

Hollow concrete blocks laid in a checkerboard pattern.

Retaining wall made of concrete blocks.

The ideally smooth, calm surface of concrete polished with a special machine acts as a decorative accent.

An ensemble of concrete and wood-decorated elements of retaining walls, modernist benches and decor.

Price for work if ordered

When calculating the price, the following indicators are taken into account:

Terrain conditions (type of underlying soil, availability of groundwater, climate);
wall height;
The number of running meters;
The presence of a slope;
Type of drainage, construction of water outflow in the form of peaks and trenches;
The material from which the retaining wall is made;
Type and volume of the foundation;
Price directly for the work (individual for each artist).

On a specific example, having studied market offers, the price for 1 linear meter of a gabion retaining wall will cost in the range of 1 to 2 thousand rubles. For more accurate information, you must contact the contractor directly, who will carry out all the necessary calculations.

Video instruction

A good example of the manufacture of a concrete retaining wall on a site with a strong elevation difference is in the Roman Vityaz blog.

Unfortunately, not every land holding is a flat area that is convenient for use. There are many territories with uneven terrain. Quite often, their owners are faced with the problem of strengthening the slopes. The solution of this issue is facilitated by the arrangement of such landscape structures as retaining walls.

Features of the concept

A retaining wall is an artificially created landscape element designed to support masses of soil and prevent their shedding.

Walls are erected in those places that they want to protect from slipping and washing out. They can also be arranged on flat terrain - in this case, they are assigned a decorative task. In addition, they can be used for zoning the territory.

As shown in the photo of the retaining wall on the site, its main constituent parts are the foundation, the ground part or body and the drainage system.

Retaining structures up to 1 m high can be built with your own hands, everything that is higher requires calculations and the involvement of specialists. The necessary calculations of retaining walls can only be carried out by professional design engineers. In no case should you try to calculate something yourself - it is very risky.

Stone and brick retaining walls

Retaining walls made of stone have a spectacular appearance, and structures made of granite, basalt and syenite also have a long service life.

Of course, such structures can be built using limestone or sandstone, but they will be less durable. But, overgrown with moss and lichen, they will create a unique flavor at their summer cottage.

A small slope can be protected by a low wall lined with flat chipped stone. Separately, it is worth noting the brick structures. They retain their original appearance for many years.

For the construction of retaining walls, both clinker and ordinary bricks are used. To increase their durability, the walls on the side of the slope must be lined with insulating material.

We are building a retaining wall. Nuances

How to make a retaining wall? The easiest option is to build a structure of stone. Moreover, it can be both artificial and natural origin.

Each element of the constructed structure must be selected in such a way that they all form a single composition. Large stones are usually placed in the corners and in the bottom row.

In order for the structure to be stable, the vertical seams must be spaced apart. The minimum allowable wall thickness is 0.3 meters.

But most often this parameter is defined as 1/5 of its height. If you have chosen a brick that has already been in use, then although it will not last long, it will look quite impressive.

Materials for the construction of retaining structures

To reliably contain the soil, it is appropriate to make a concrete retaining wall with your own hands. Just do not forget to reinforce it and leave drainage holes. Remember about the device of dilatation sutures. They need to be done every couple of meters.

If the structure is laid out by the dry method, then soil can be used to fill the cracks, in which it would be appropriate to plant mountain plants. So you can get the original decor of the country landscape.

The wall can also be built from ready-made concrete blocks. Retaining structures made of wood are perfectly combined with garden architecture.

A durable option is the walls of the sleepers. Retaining walls made of boards laid out in horizontal rows look quite unusual. Round timber designs also look good. Before use, the wood is treated with special antiseptic compounds and sheathed on the inside with waterproofing.

If all the elements are selected with great care, and the seams are performed as carefully as possible, then, as the end result, you will get a real work of landscape art.

The design of retaining walls can be different. It all depends on how developed your imagination and imagination, as well as on financial capabilities. Therefore, do not be afraid to experiment, first study all possible information about retaining structures and come up with something of your own based on it.

Retaining wall photo

It is very convenient to draw up the site when it is perfectly flat. But what to do when you have to deal with the slope and uneven terrain? Do not be upset, because this feature can be turned into a landmark by decorating the vertical slope of the slope in an original way with suitable materials. The retaining wall will be the highlight of your garden. Here you will have many opportunities to use your imagination and create something beautiful. Such a wall is not only decorative. It also holds the ground, preventing it from collapsing. From this article you will learn how to make a retaining wall with your own hands.

The supporting wall in the country can be built from wood, concrete, stone, brick or blocks. The choice of materials for the construction of this structure depends on several factors:

the style of your garden;
relief of the site;
height of the future wall;
the availability of improvised materials;
your preferences and the cost of materials for the construction of the structure.

If your site has too large a height difference (more than 1.5 m), it is better to form several ledge steps on it. Then the retaining walls will not be too high, which will look much nicer, and the probability of soil collapse will be significantly lower. But if the retaining wall is planned to be higher than 1.5 m, a specialist should be invited. After all, it must be designed for heavy loads and withstand soil pressure.

Broken and rounded wall configurations can withstand more load than straight ones, but they will also take you longer to build.

Natural stone looks very aesthetically pleasing. The following types of stone are often used:

basalt;
granite;
dolomite;
sandstone;
cobblestone;
quartzite and others.

The retaining wall structure consists of foundation, vertical wall and drainage. The foundation should be 3 times wider than the wall, and its thickness should be one third of the height of the structure. First you need to dig a trench, adding another 20-30 cm to its depth for a gravel-sand cushion.

After you have compacted the gravel (or crushed stone) and sand, you can fill the trench with concrete. But at the same time, make sure that the height of the foundation is 10–15 cm below ground level.

At this stage, you need to take care of the drainage system. It is possible to install perforated drainage pipes at the base of the wall and bring them out through the wall. And you can simplify the task - in the process of laying, just leave a few small vertical slots between the stones, through which water will drain.

When the foundation has already hardened, you should start laying out the stones. We use cement mortar to fasten them. The largest stones, of course, should be located at the base.

It is desirable that the wall has a slight slope of 5–10º, then it will be stronger. Also, when laying dry, it is important to deepen several stones with the long side into the ground. This will bind and strengthen the structure. Also make sure that there are no cross-shaped and long vertical slots, otherwise the structure will not be so strong.

The cracks can be filled with soil with seeds of unpretentious plants. If you want the wall to look like a century ago, you can cover it with kefir - then it will quickly overgrow with moss. The stone structure can also serve as a base for a bench.

First you need to calculate the dimensions of the future structure. Depending on the type of soil and the size of the structure, the wall thickness should be approximately 25–50 cm. For 1/3 of its height, for reliable stability, the wall should be deepened into the ground. Therefore, a trench should be dug, the depth of which depends on the planned height of the wall. We fill the bottom with sand, then gravel or crushed stone and carefully tamp.

We erect the formwork and strengthen it with supports. It is desirable that the wall at the base be slightly wider than at the top. This will give her stability.

We adjust the boards tightly to each other and install the risers. If the wall is very high (more than 1 m), and the soil is too loose, reinforcement should be built into the structure, connected at the intersections with metal wire. Then we pour concrete into the formwork.

From the side of the slope, the structure should be waterproofed using rolled or coating waterproofing agents. Otherwise, moisture accumulating behind the wall can gradually destroy its base. Also, to solve this problem, drainage pipes are installed behind the wall. When the concrete structure has stood idle for several days and gained strength, we fill the space between the wall and the slope with crushed stone, gravel or pebbles, layer by layer of the rammer. The top layer should consist of fertile soil.

The main disadvantage of a concrete wall is its appearance. She doesn't look very presentable. You can fix this with the help of facing materials. For this, natural or artificial stone is often used, as well as ceramic tiles designed for outdoor use.

The adhesive composition for fixing the cladding must be of high quality, namely moisture resistant and resistant to temperature extremes.

If for some reason you do not plan to use facing materials, then the requirements for evenness of the concrete wall will increase. All filling flaws should be very carefully corrected with a plaster mortar. To make the wall smooth, roofing material or other similar material can be attached to the inside of the formwork before pouring concrete. After completion of all work, the concrete wall can be decorated with ampelous plants.

To facilitate the task, sometimes it is decided to replace a monolithic concrete wall with a concrete block structure.

For the construction of a brick retaining wall, solid, durable bricks are used. If the wall is higher than 0.25 m, laying the foundation is a mandatory task. Its parameters are calculated similarly to masonry. For a brick wall less than 0.6 m high (its thickness can be 12 cm, that is, half a brick), and for a 1 m high wall, the recommended thickness is 25 cm. High-quality cement mortar is used to fasten the brick.

As with all options for supporting walls, one should not forget about the drainage system.

Gabions are containers made of galvanized metal mesh, which are filled with stones. They are used not only as a reinforcing structure. It also serves as a wonderful element of landscape design. The advantage of this type of retaining wall is that it is absolutely unnecessary to install a drainage system.

To build a wall of gabions, you will need:

metal galvanized mesh;
wire staples;
metal spiral for connecting the walls;
braces (wire cables);
steel pins with pointed ends;
filler (natural stone, coarse gravel or other materials);
geofabric (optional).

Gabion panels are connected with a metal spiral or wire staples.

From the front side, gabions are filled with the most beautiful and largest stones. Inside they fall asleep with fine gravel, crushed stone or other cheap material. So that it does not fall into the gaps between large stones, you can lay a geotextile in the middle. When the gabion is already half full, so that it does not protrude, the walls should be fastened with braces every 4–5 cells of the metal mesh. Next, fill the gabions with stone to the top, close the lid and tighten with a spiral.

The containers are also connected to each other by wire, which must be galvanized and of high quality, otherwise the structure may collapse. Gabions are firmly attached to the ground with steel pins with sharp ends.

Wood is a material that is easy to process, but, as you know, short-lived. However, the supporting wall made of logs looks very attractive and gives a lot of opportunities to improvise when making it.

The first step is to dig a trench, the depth of which depends on the height of the wall. It is desirable that it be half the outer height of the supporting wall. At the bottom we fall asleep 10–15 cm of sand and the same layer of crushed stone or gravel.

Logs should be treated with coating waterproofing agents. The part that will be immersed in the ground can be covered with bitumen or burned. And the outer part needs to be impregnated with more expensive products that not only protect against moisture and fungi, but also give the tree a more attractive appearance.

Then we place the logs inside the trench and, for stability, sprinkle them with gravel, fasten them with nails or wire. After that, the trench can be poured with concrete 10 cm below ground level.

On the side of the slope, the wall must be additionally waterproofed with roofing material or a dense film. Install drain pipes. And the space between the wall and the slope must be filled with rubble or other small stone for drainage. And remember that the tree most of all needs protection from moisture.

There are many variations of wooden support walls. Logs can be placed horizontally. It can also be made from beams.

If the soil is too loose, there are steep slopes on the site and there is a danger of soil collapse, this problem should not be ignored. It is necessary to strengthen the slope with plants with a powerful root system. So, you get live reinforcement. If the situation is more complicated, geosynthetics such as geogrid, geogrid, geotextile or biomat should be used. After the main work and fixing the reinforcing material on the slope, you need to fill it with fertile soil from above and plant suitable plants.

If you have already built a retaining wall in your landscaping, then share your personal experience in this matter, and especially what material you decided to choose. You can do this by leaving a comment at the end of this article.