What is the name of the Russian folk shirt? Costume of Ancient Rus' (1)Men's clothing. III. Explanation of new material. Presentation

Traditional Russian costume.

Traditional Russian costume.

In the past, the Central Russian clothing complex was clearly visible. It is characterized by: a women's shirt with straight skirts, a slanted (swinging) sundress and a later straight "Moscow" one, a type of wicker shoes (bast shoes, feet), a kokoshnik with a rounded top, etc.
The traditional Russian suit is characterized by a straight cut with freely falling lines. It is distinguished by constructiveness and rationality: the module here is the width of the panel of homespun or purchased factory fabric.

SHIRT

The shirt was called “sleeves” (only the sleeves were visible from under the sundress). The lower part of the shirt reached the hem of the sundress - it was called a “stan” and was sewn from cheaper and often unbleached canvas. A common cut was a shirt cut with pads (shoulder inserts with edges at the neck) and gussets (diamond-shaped inserts under the sleeves, creating comfort when raising your arms).
The women's shirt, like the men's, was straight cut, with long sleeves. The white canvas of the shirt was decorated with a red embroidery pattern located on the chest, shoulder, at the bottom of the sleeves and along the bottom of the product. The most complex, multi-figure compositions with large patterns (fantastic female figures, fairy-tale birds, trees), reaching a width of 30 cm, were located at the bottom of the product. Each part of the shirt had its own traditional ornamental design.
Structurally, the shirt consists of a waist and sleeves (Fig. 5). The waist was made from panels of fabric leading from the neck to the hem, in most cases not one-piece, but composite - with transverse division. The upper part of the camp was called differently in different places: “stanushka”, “collar”, “collar”, “breast”. The lower part of the camp was called: “stan”, “stanovina”, “stanovitsa”, “pododol”, “podstava”. The horizontal division of the waist was located below the chest level and above the waist level. In terms of width, the mill was made from solid pieces of canvas, the width of which ranged from 30 to 46 cm, which depended on the design of the loom. The volumetric shape of the shirt, the width and density of the ruffles at the neck and the volume (puffiness) of the sleeves depended on the number of panels used.

Shirts were made from linen, hemp, and cotton fabrics; heavier ones were made from cloth and wool. The upper and lower parts of the shirt, as a rule, were sewn from fabrics of different quality, color, and design. For the upper part of the shirt, higher-quality and more colorful fabrics were used, sleeves and skirts were usually decorated with patterned weaving with red threads, and embroidery of various techniques was also used. The neck of the shirt and bosom (20-25 cm) were treated with lining, usually red. The neckline was decorated with a button and loop.

In the southern regions, the straight cut of shirts was more complex; it was carried out using so-called polyks - cut details connecting the front and back along the shoulder line. Poliki could be straight or oblique. Rectangular-shaped poles connected four panels of canvas, each 32-42 cm wide (see figure below left). The slanting stripes (in the shape of a trapezoid) were connected by a wide base to the sleeve, and by a narrow base to the lining of the neck (see figure below right). Both design solutions were emphasized decoratively.

Compared to Northern Russian shirts, the bottom line in shirts from the southern regions is decorated more modestly.
A folk shirt could represent an independent element of a woman’s costume (for example, a haymaking shirt “pokosnitsa”), in this case it was necessarily belted with a woven belt and complemented by an apron. But in the Red Charter, Christians were forbidden to wear only a shirt, much less pray. A sundress was worn over the shirt. In the southern regions of Russia, instead of a sundress, a ponyova was worn over a shirt - a rectangular panel gathered at the top for assembly. Poneva was wrapped around the waist. Like men, women wore an undershirt, which they did not take off at night and were belted with a lower belt.

The most decorative and ornate part of both northern and southern women's costume was the apron, or curtain, covering the front of the female figure. The apron was usually made of canvas and decorated with embroidery, woven patterns, colored trim inserts, and silk patterned ribbons. The edge of the apron was decorated with teeth, white or colored lace, fringe made of silk or woolen threads, and frills of different widths.

SORAFAN

The most famous women's clothing, sometimes incorrectly considered originally Russian, was the sundress - the main part of the sundress complex. The sarafan complex primarily belongs to the central and especially northern, northeastern and northwestern provinces. However, the sundress also existed in the southern Great Russian provinces.
Northern peasant women wore white canvas shirts and aprons with sundresses. In the 18th century and in the first half of the 19th century. sundresses were made from plain, unpatterned fabric: blue canvas, calico, red dye, black homespun wool. The multi-patterned and multi-colored embroidery of shirts and aprons really benefited from the dark, smooth background of the sundress.
Until the mid-nineteenth century, sundresses were mostly oblique, swing. The slanted cut of the sundress had several options. The most common was a sundress with a seam down the middle of the front, trimmed with patterned ribbons, tinsel lace, and a vertical row of brass and pewter buttons. This sundress had the silhouette of a truncated cone with a large expansion downwards (up to 6 m), giving the figure a slender look.
By the end of the 19th century, sundresses began to prevail straight, round "Moscow". The name speaks of its urban origins. It apparently appeared in Moscow as a holiday for the wealthy merchants, then, as a Moscow “fashion,” it spread to other cities, and then penetrated into peasant clothing, which is confirmed by its everyday existence.

There are five types of sundresses:
1. deaf oblique, with armholes, called in some provinces shushun and sukman; it existed in the Novgorod, Olonets, Pskov, Ryazan, Tula, Voronezh, Kursk provinces and was an ancient type of sundress, gradually being replaced by others;

2. slanted swing or with a sewn seam at the front, with armholes or with straps, distributed almost exclusively in northeastern Russia, the Volga region, the Urals, Moscow, Vladimir, Yaroslavl, less often in the Vologda and Arkhangelsk provinces; in the Yaroslavl and Tver provinces it is known as feryaz, in Tver and Moscow - sayan, as well as kumashnik;

The oblique sundress was sewn from three panels of fabric - two in front and one in back. In the lower part, several oblique short wedges with sub-blades were sewn into its side seams, expanding the hem. The front panels are not sewn and are held in place by a fastener with a long row of buttons on air loops made of braid. The sundress was sewn with wide armholes or with straps. The straps were made wide or narrow, cut out together with the back from the back panel or from a separate piece of fabric.

3. straight sundress with straps, also known as round or Moscow, gradually replacing the oblique sundress and poneva;


The type of sundress is “Moskovets” with a straight or round cut, its cut is very simple, it is sewn from seven straight panels with a bodice. It is a wide central rectangular strip with an upper figured edge and two side wedge-shaped inserts; The back side is covered with gray canvas. It has narrow straps, which are covered with cotton fabric, and are attached to the chest and middle of the back. The chest is supported by long narrow ties sewn to the edge of the cloth. Along the hem there are two stripes made of bright blue cotton fabric. The panels of the sundress are woven from linen and purchased cotton threads using the plain weave technique “with busting”. The fabric of the sundress is distinguished by its emphasized decorativeness. On the orange background there are narrow transverse stripes, colored with red, white, and blue threads.

4. straight cutting with a bodice and straps or cut-out armholes, derived from the andarak, worn with a lace-up bodice, common in the Pskov, Smolensk, Oryol, Vologda provinces and in Siberia - the latest type of sundress;

5. sundress with yoke with cut-out armholes and a front slit to the waist, fastened with buttons; late and widespread distribution.

The sundress was quite widely used in the southern Great Russian provinces, mainly as girls' clothes, and in the Ryazan Meshchera and old women's clothes. In some places it had its own names: Sayan, Kostolan, Sukman. It was a blind, slanted sundress, slanted with straps or, at the beginning of the 20th century, with a bodice, that is, with a yoke. It was made from calico, Chinese, dark blue, black, red. Occasionally, a swing sundress with straps was also used here, but mainly in this case the front seam was sewn in and only indicated by braid and buttons on the loops. Along the hem and front seam, the sundress was also decorated with wool embroidery and stitching.
In the northern, northeastern, northwestern provinces - Arkhangelsk, Vologda, Olonets, Perm, Vyatka, St. Petersburg, this was the second main type of women's clothing, after the shirt. Based on the material and cut, it sometimes received special names: dubas, cage, stuffing, cloth, damask, dolnik, castyach, fur coat, etc. These were the same five types of sundress, as a rule, with stripes of braid and lace on the front seam decorated with buttons and loops. They were made from motley fabric, home-dyed fabric, calico, calico, damask, cloth, including bright colors, with checks or stripes. In the Volga region - Simbirsk, Kazan, Samara, Orenburg, Ufa provinces, the sundress was also the main type of women's clothing.
The most ancient here was considered to be a blind slanted sundress with cut-out armholes and straps, decorated along the front seam with braids and buttons with loops. In some villages there were swing sundresses.
By the end of the 20th century, a straight sundress with straps and a sundress with a bodice - a yoke - prevailed, from which the transition was made to a “couple” - a skirt with a jacket, and such a skirt retained the name of a sundress.

With a sundress in the northern, Volga, and central provinces, aprons were usually worn with or without a breast, tied at the waist. Festive aprons were embroidered along the chest with red thread. In the Volga region, the apron was called a zapon, which indicates the connections of the local population with the southern provinces. In some places in the Vyatka province, the apron looked like a tunic-like garment with a short back panel, without sleeves - the so-called chin.

The sundress must be tied up. Losing the belt meant disgracing yourself. Hence the expression: “Without a cross, without a belt” (to be shameless).

The belt was sometimes worn at the waist or slightly higher. Belts were often made at home, but some of them were bought at a fair or in a shop. The belt was treated with particular care, since it served as a “talisman” - a protector. Often the belts contained words of prayer in the ornament or the words: “I give on the day of an angel,” “God save,” etc. This belief remains from pagan times, when the circle was considered a protector from evil spirits. Belts were sometimes woven very long, as they were used in fortune-telling (about marriage) and in spells against illnesses. Weaving belts as a craft was known in the Simbirsk province.

I draw your attention to the fact that the common philistine idea of ​​wearing a sundress is like this picture (as they usually sing in Russian choirs)

NOT COMPLETELY true, because
1. Walking around unbelted with fluttering skirts was considered a DISGRACE! Correctly like this:

2. In a number of areas, the sundress was the clothing of unmarried and rarely old women. Married women, women and young women (as in the first picture of this post) no longer wore sundresses..!
3. The cut of any (slanted, straight) sundress, even with a decent width, was so economical that there was not a ONE PIECE left over! All the smallest scraps moved so that they completely fit into his cut!!

OUTERWEAR

Outer folk clothing refers to all shoulder clothing worn by Russian peasants over a shirt, sundress (or poneva) and apron. Women's outerwear was almost no different in design from men's; the difference lay in details, sizes and degree of decoration.
In the north they wore with ancient silk and damask sundresses long sleeve- something like the upper part of a shirt with very long sleeves, held at the wrist by cuffs made of a narrow strip of fabric with tightly sewn beads and colored glasses in the frame. They were sewn from plain or patterned silk.
Shugai or epanechka, also known as trumpet, forty-pipe. It was an open jacket with narrow sleeves, cut at the waist, with a bottom quilted with cotton wool or with a solid back, without a collar or with a turn-down collar.
A variety of this clothing was soul warmer- like a short swing skirt, often quilted on cotton wool with a roller, greatly expanding, held on the chest by straps.

At the end of the 19th century. became widespread Cossack- a type of long jacket, tailored to fit, swinging, with a low stand-up collar. In the Arkhangelsk and Vologda provinces they also wore oversleeves or “sleeves” in the form of a very short blouse with long sleeves or simply two sleeves connected at the back by two narrow strips of fabric. They were made from motley fabric, printed fabric, as well as silk and cashmere.

Outerwear basically followed the shape of men's clothing. But in the Volga region, outerwear of special shapes was used in combination with a sundress. These were kolodniks, vatoshniks, monarks, stukolki, dushegrei of approximately the same cut: mid-thigh length, waist length, with straight and turn-down collars and with a lot of frills at the back. These clothes were made from homespun cloth, red damask, satin, and trimmed with velvet and braid. In the southern Volga provinces there was clothing called beduim. It was a robe-like garment, length below the knees, slightly wider at the bottom, swinging, with a turn-down collar and wide long sleeves sewn into the armholes, tightly gathered. The collar was decorated with beads, silk tassels, and velvet trim. Beduim were worn without buttoning or belting. In some places in the Samara province they wore lace-up corsets, and in the Kazan and Simbirsk provinces they wore soul warmers with straps.

Both women's and men's outerwear were wrapped in the same way - the right floor overlapped deeply with the left, this is not accidental, because in the ancient Christian tradition the primacy of the right over the left can be seen from the very beginning. Based on this, when making outerwear, the right floor was often made 5-10 cm longer than the left, and the side line was slanted. The fastener was located mainly up to the waistline: buttons or hooks on the right side, loops on the left.

Outer folk clothing is very diverse. According to the method of wearing, there are two types: thrown over the shoulders (cloak, cape) and, the most typical, threaded into the sleeves; the latter is divided into closed and swinging.

Traditional outerwear has a lot of names. Common Slavic names: retinue (from the word “twist”), gunya, koszulya, kabat, casing, etc. Old Russian terms: ponitok, sukonnik, opashen, okhaben, odnoryadka, etc. Russian names: poddevka, kucinka (from the word “kutsi”) , shugai, korotay, semishovka, verkhovitsa, etc. Terms of eastern origin: caftan, zipun, fur coat, sheepskin coat, armyak, etc.

Kaftan-zipun: swing outer folk clothing. It was made from homemade cloth or factory fabric, usually brown, less often black or gray. The back of the zipun is solid, somewhat fitted or cut-off with gathers. Two or three wedges were sewn into the sides, and the sleeves were cut out. Zipun was made without a collar or with a small collar fastened with one or two buttons (at the collar and on the chest). The edges of the sleeves were often trimmed with leather, and sometimes (for women's zipuns) with pleated leather. Zipun was usually made without lining. They wore it, depending on the weather, at all times of the year.

Undershirt, following from the name itself, was worn under other, warmer clothes. To make this type of outerwear, thin homemade cloth or “ponitchina” was used (warp - flax, weft - wool). A feature of the cut can be considered a seam at the waist and gathers on the back side of the jacket. Also, the shoulder seam dropped back and arched grooves on the back (which has survived to this day, for example, in the cut of military or police sheepskin coats), and the stand-up collar. There were four hook-and-eye closures from the collar to the waist. The length of the undershirt reached the middle of the shin. The cut was similar, but there were no gathers at the back of the waist.

Since Old Testament times, short clothing has been considered unacceptable and even criminal, just like barbering. Short, “scrappy” clothing was forbidden to wear!

HATS

The ensemble of women's folk clothing is unthinkable without a headdress; it was given a special place in folk culture. After all, it was by the headdress that one could find out what area its owner was from, her age, marital and social status. Almost every province (and sometimes county) had unique forms of headdresses. They are extremely diverse.

Hats are divided into two large groups: girls’ and women’s. A characteristic feature of a girl’s headdress was an open crown, while women completely covered their hair, since according to ancient custom it was impossible to show it.
Girls' headdresses include a bandage made of fabric, which “represented a strip of fabric (silk, brocade, velvet, calico, braid) on a lining from 5 cm wide to 20-25 cm, up to 50 cm long, on a solid base in the form of a hoop, tied under the braid with ribbons. One wide or several narrow ribbons were sewn at the back above the ribbons. The frontal part of the headdress was usually embroidered with gold thread and decorated with flounces or stacks of pearls and beads. In the North, a “crown” was used as a wedding headdress - a very wide openwork, richly decorated hoop. In the Volga region, a “veil” was widespread - a silk, usually red, scarf folded at an angle and laid in the form of a strip; it usually covered the parietal part of the head and was tied at the back under the braid. Braids were often woven into braids with long silk ribbons tied to them, and sometimes with a braid - a small embroidered or brocade triangle. The bandage was put on the crown or forehead and tied under the braid at the back of the head. Two blades made of silk or brocade were sewn to the back of the bandage...”
Also, girls' headdresses were a hoop made of tree bark or cardboard, a crown, a wreath, a scarf, and a knitted cap.

Women's hats are:

1) Towel-type headwear ( towel, basting, brush) in the form of a long towel with or without decoration, wound in a special way over a round-bottomed hat, cap or kichka.

2) Kick-shaped headdress ( kitchka or magpie), are distinguished by their variety and imagination of solutions. As a rule, they were made composite. The main elements: the lower part with a solid base that gave the shape of the headdress (tuft, horns, hair, etc.); the upper decorated part is made of fabric (magpie, top, tie, etc.); a fabric backplate tied at the back, under the upper part. The kichka-magpie was also supplemented with other elements: a forehead, beaded pendants, feathers, “earphones”, cords, silk tassels, etc.
After some time, especially after the birth of the first child women wore kitty-shaped headdresses. Thus, in the Olonets province there was a magpie with a “sderikha” - a kind of cap made of canvas with a crown in the form of a hoof /sderikha/, on which they put a soft magpie in the shape of a low blunt cone, with ties on the sides, tied at the back of the head under the rectangular end of the magpie. The Pomeranian kitty looked like a hard cap with an elongated flat occipital part. Gradually there was a transition to the use of simple warriors in the form of a cap with a guard at the back of the head. Both the magpie, the kichka, and the warrior were decorated with embroidery with gold thread, braid, lace, and the like.

3) Kokoshnik- a festive headdress, richly decorated with embroidery with gold and silver threads, embroidered with freshwater pearls, decorated with sparkles, multi-colored pieces of glass, gimp, and bugles.
In the Olonets province it was usually a one-horned kokoshnik on a solid base, with an eyepiece protruding upward in the form of a horn and a flat top that fell on the ears from the sides. A similar form of kokoshnik existed in other northern provinces. In some areas of the Perm province, a large crescent-shaped kokoshnik with sharp ends almost reaching to the shoulders was used. Kokoshniks of this form were also used in the Middle Volga region along with kokoshniks in the form of a velvet or brocade cap. In the Kazan province there were spade-shaped kokoshniks with an almost rectangular headband, as well as high, pointed kokoshniks. In the Kazan province there were also two-horned kokoshniks, called kichkas here. Kokoshniks were richly decorated with freshwater pearls, beads, sometimes forming flounces, mother-of-pearl dies, braid, embroidery with gold thread, and a net of pearls or duckweed beads descended onto the forehead. In the Pskov province there was a one-horned kokoshnik, the headband of which was densely planted with what looked like pearl cones. A light blanket was sewn to the high pointed and spade-shaped kokoshniks, which fell over the shoulders and back.

Kokoshniks were usually worn only by young women who had recently gotten married.

4)Povoinik, collection. One of the ancient headdresses in Rus', in the form of a soft cap that completely covers the hair. The povoinik was a lower headdress; it was always covered with an ubrus or hairline on top; one was not supposed to walk around the house, much less on the street, wearing one povoinik. From the second half of the 19th century it acquired independent significance. Everyday warriors were made from simple materials, festive ones from expensive fabrics, the bottom was decorated with gold embroidery, freshwater pearls, and sparkles.

In our Old Pomeranian tradition, all of the above headdresses are completely absent.
They wore a warrior with a scarf.
5.) A common headdress is boards. Both girls and women wore headscarves at different times of the year. They gave the costume a special colorfulness and originality. It was also common to wear two scarves: one was tied around the head, like a warrior, and the second was covered on top. In the Volga region, the second scarf was often worn “unraveled”, tied or pinned under the chin so that two corners of the scarf fell onto the back.

“In the Ryazan, Tula, and Kaluga provinces, a horned kitty in the form of sharp horns, rolled from hemp and quilted with thread, was most often used as a frame for a magpie” (c)
In Ryazan, it was scarlet in color, worn in literature during the period of early marriage, and I was told that it was worn for a short time shortly after the birth of children, emphasizing the special significance of this period.

The oldest type of women's clothing is paneva, worn in combination with a kichka and special chest and shoulder clothing. This is the clothing of predominantly married women, worn by girls only after they reached puberty, and sometimes during the wedding ceremony. In ancient times, the distribution area of ​​the paneva was much wider, gradually narrowing and being replaced by the sarafan complex, so that in some provinces the paneva was adjacent to the sarafan, most often as a girl’s and old woman’s clothing. In the middle of the nineteenth century. paneva was still known in the southern districts of Moscow and northern districts of Kaluga and Ryazan provinces, but at the end of the century it had already disappeared there and was replaced by a sundress; in the 18th century it was worn even further north - in Melenkovsky, Sudogsky, Muromsky districts of the Vladimir province. In the 19th century Paneva was distributed only in the southern Russian and adjacent eastern and western provinces: Oryol, Kursk, Tambov, Voronezh, Belgorod, Penza, Kaluga, Ryazan, Smolensk. Analogues of Paneva are available in Ukraine, Belarus, Lithuania; Thus, the Ukrainian plank is actually a swing paneva.

Paneva representsa waist garment made of three or more partially sewn pieces of fabric specially woven on a wool loom. The typology of Paneva is extremely fractional. It varies in cut and color. In terms of cut, panevas differ in swing, open at the front or side, and with stitching, closed. Both types are present in all regions of southern Russia. In the Smolensk region, among the swing panels, there is a spreader, in which one panel is located in front and two in the back, so that both sides are open, and a mixed panel, consisting of three panels of different lengths, of which the short one is located on the right, and a third of the first and third panels are turned away and thrown over the belt. In the Oryol, Kursk, Voronezh, Tambov, Penza, Kaluga, and Ryazan provinces, the paneva is open in front; They also usually wore it “with a tuck,” turning the corners away and tucking them into the belt. A variant is the paneva-plakhta, which existed in the Sevsky and Trubchevsky districts of the Oryol province, consisting of two half-sewn panels and worn with a slit in the front. In the Ryazan and Oryol provinces, corrugated paneva also existed.

Paneva with stitching is apparently a later phenomenon. It is known that peasant women, when going to the city, took off their swing paneva, since walking in the city in a tucked paneva was considered shameful. Probably for these reasons, a fourth narrow panel, stitching, was sewn into the paneva, and sometimes it was sewn temporarily, on a living thread. The seam was located at the front or side. Moreover, even in those cases when the seam was sewn in immediately and tightly, simultaneously with the sewing of the entire paneva, it was made from a fabric other than the main panel, clearly standing out as a seam, and the seams were often marked with strips of red and braids.

The number of variations of paneva in terms of color, ornamentation and decoration is much wider; here, individual villages or groups of villages often had their own variants. At the same time, due to the mixing of the population during the colonization of the southern lands and other historical processes, it is difficult to make a clear distribution of color and ornament across regions. The main type - blue checkered paneva, open or blind, predominated in the Oka basin. in Ryazan, Kursk, Penza, Tambov, Oryol, Voronezh provinces. In some areas of the Ryazan, Voronezh, and Kaluga provinces there was a black checkered paneva. In the Meshchersky region, in the north of the Ryazan and part of the Tambov provinces, smooth blue and red striped paneva were used; red paneva is also known in the Tula and Voronezh provinces, and is found in the Don basin, as well as in some areas of the Smolensk, Oryol and Ryazan provinces. In the Voronezh province, dark blue or black checkered panevas, entirely embroidered with white wool, are known; in the Kaluga and Ryazan provinces, they are decorated with woven patterns, sometimes very complex. Usually panevs had hems, edges along the cuts, and also stitched seams richly decorated with red ribbons, denticles, diamonds, and galloon stripes. In the Ryazan province, young women wore festive panevas with tails made of ribbons up to 20 cm long. In the Tula province, squares of paper fabric with three bells were sewn on the back and on the hips. Bells were also used at festive panevas in the Kaluga province.

The blind paneva naturally had to evolve into a skirt.

MEN'S SUIT

The main elements of men's clothing were: shirt, ports, headdress and shoes.

The ancient East Slavic shirt was tunic-shaped, with long sleeves and a straight cut from the neck, i.e. in the middle of the chest, without a collar - “naked neck”. Later, a kosovorotka appeared - a shirt with an oblique slit on the left, less often on the right, and with a stand-up collar. The “naked neck” was subsequently used as a lower, undershirt, which was worn under the outer shirt and was not taken off at night, like a belt. Our pious ancestors considered it unacceptable even to sleep naked.

To ensure freedom of movement of the arms, rectangular pieces of fabric - gussets - were sewn between the sleeves and side inserts (panels). A characteristic feature of the men's folk shirt is the canvas lining in the chest area, called the underlay, which descends in front and behind in a triangular or rectangular protrusion.

The length of the shirt was a sign of age difference. The shirts of old people and children were down to the knees and even lower, and for men 10-15 cm above the knees. By the end of the 19th century, at the very time of secularization, the length of shirts and, especially in cities, was significantly shortened (to fit a jacket).

Shirts were made from linen or hemp canvas, motley (checkered or striped linen fabric), dyed canvas fabric - heeled fabric, and later - from factory-made cotton materials. The color of the fabric for work shirts was dark, and for prayer it was white. The hem and cuffs could be decorated with embroidery, the ancient form of which is “swearing” embroidery (in black and red). The bottom of the sleeves, neckline and hem were covered with ornaments. Along with patterned weaving and embroidery, the festive shirt was decorated with braid, sequins, gold braid, buttons, and beads. The men's holiday shirt was not inferior to the women's in terms of the richness of decorations. Shirts for prayer, both men's and women's, had no decorations.




Russian-style ports (pants) were made from striped fabric, printed fabric, plain canvas and homespun cloth - depending on the season. They were tied at the waist, and more often at the hips, with a cord or rope. There were also underwear ports for sleeping.




A belt is a mandatory element of both men's and women's traditional Russian costume. Belts were made using weaving, weaving and knitting techniques. One of the most common motifs in the pattern of belts are the ancient “solic” (solar) ornamental motifs, which in Christian symbolism mean the Sun

“The most ancient were belts made of linen or woolen threads, woven on the fingers and having a diamond-shaped pattern. The width of the belts ranged from 5 to 20 cm, and the length from 1 to 3 m.”8. Festive belts are wider and brighter than everyday ones. For Christians, a belt is not just an attribute of clothing, but carries a deep symbolic meaning. This is the separation of the bottom and the top, and readiness to serve God. Without a belt you can neither pray nor go to bed. Thus, there are two types of belts - lower and upper. The lower belt is simpler and unadorned.

Since an Orthodox Russian person did not do anything without a belt, the language has preserved a corresponding attitude towards a person who neglects such an ancient custom. For example, the word unbelt means: 1. Untie your belt. 2. Become dissolute, lose all restraint. “It’s a sin to walk without a belt,” people said. To unbelt a man means to dishonor him. That is why people who behaved unworthily were called unbelted, i.e. arbitrarily depriving himself of honor. “The belt is still considered a sacred object... and is not removed either day or night, except for those cases when it is necessary to go to the bathhouse to wash”1. “In the everyday life and rituals of the Russian people, the belt has long been given great importance. It was considered extremely indecent for a man without a belt to be in public, in society. The grandson of Dmitry Donskoy, Vasily Kosoy (mid-15th century), was insulted by the removal of his belt at a feast, which served as a pretext for war.” There was a saying among the people: “Why are you walking around without a belt, like a Tatar”?! Those. a person who walks without a belt in the popular consciousness no longer becomes not only not a Christian, but also not even Russian. Moreover, people who walked without a belt were considered sorcerers associated with evil spirits. “It is significant that the absence of a belt is a sign of belonging to the chthonic (lower, animal, in this case demonic - U.S.) world: for example, mermaids are traditionally described as (...) dressed in white shirts, but the absence of a belt is always emphasized . In rituals associated with communication with “evil spirits” (demons - U.S.), the belt was removed simultaneously with the cross.” “A belt tied on a person turns out to be the center of his vertical structure, the junction of the sacred top and the material-corporeal bottom...”

The main headdress for men was a hat. An ancient type of headdress among the Great Russians is considered to be a felt hat - “valenka”, “a headdress for spring, summer, and autumn made of felted sheep wool in white, gray, brown colors. They were made in the shape of a truncated cone with a flat or rounded top, about 15-18 cm high, with bent brims or high brims adjacent to the crown”13. Peasants wore felted hats, as well as lower round hats with a fur band. Rich people made caps from satin, sometimes with a band decorated with precious stones and sable trim.

By the 20th century, hats of almost modern shape began to be worn. But a Christian always wore a headdress, and when he said goodbye, he took it off, said a prayer, and then put it on again. The only caps and hats that are prohibited for Christians are malakhai (Tatar) and three-piece hats. Also hats made of dog and wolf fur, especially for attending cathedral prayers.

Each nation has its own centuries-old traditions, customs, history of its development and, accordingly, its own original and unique national costumes.

National costumes, traditions

There is a wonderful tradition: to use a national costume not only for any national holiday, but also during periods of leisure, for example, among friends and relatives. Such a bright, colorful and positive moment of life can be observed in Sweden, Germany, America and other countries, which evokes respect.

This spectacle is attractive, bewitching, kind and colorful in its own way.

Every person is obliged to know the history of his nation. Belonging to certain age-old traditions and customs gives him a sense of significance in life.

The formation of any folk costume with its specific ornament, cut and other features was greatly influenced by surrounding factors: climate, way of life, geographical location and the main occupations of the nation.

National costumes (photo) of Russia

Russia is inhabited by peoples of various nationalities: Russians, Tatars, Mordovians, Udmurts, Bashkirs, Chuvashs, Kalmyks, etc. Each nation values ​​and carefully preserves its individual and rich culture, especially its folk costumes.

In Rus', all national costumes from ancient times had unique features depending on the region and nation and, in addition, for each nation they were divided into everyday and festive.

By clothing one could judge a person, where he came from, what nation and social class he belonged to. All national costumes, especially their decoration, have long contained symbolic information about customs, gender, occupations and various events, characteristic only of a certain nation.

The cut of the clothes, their ornaments and details absorbed the individual characteristics of all Russian peoples - beauty and hard work.

Russian folk clothing: history of appearance

The main difference between the Russian national costume is its multi-layered design, amazing richness of decoration and a rather simple, almost straight or slightly flared cut of the silhouette. The colors of the clothes were mostly bright and cheerful.

With all the diversity of folk clothing in Rus', the bulk of women's costume was represented by sundress sets of Northern Russian and Southern Russian (it is more ancient). And the shirt has always and everywhere been an indispensable basis for women's outfits. Usually they were made of linen or cotton, but the more expensive ones were made of silk fabric.

Almost all Russian national costumes were complemented with beautiful decorations on the collars and sleeves of shirts and dresses: embroidery, buttons, braid, sequins, patterns and appliqués. Often a unique ornament also decorated the chest part of the shirt. Moreover, all these additions in different provinces and regions were different and individual, special.

In any country and every people, an important part of the image of the nation, state and culture is its own traditional national clothing.

A folk costume is a kind of way to declare oneself on a national and even global scale.

The living conditions of the ancient Eastern Slavs - the Drevlyans, Radimichi, Vyatichi, etc. - were the same as those of their neighbors - the Scythians and Sarmatians. Probably their clothes were the same. The ancient Slavs made them from leather, felt, and coarse woolen fabric. Later, the costume of the Eastern Slavs, under the influence of Greek, Roman and Scandinavian clothing, became richer.

Men's suit

Men wore a woolen shirt with long sleeves, without a collar, which was wrapped in the front and belted with a belt. The hems of such a shirt were often lined with fur, and winter shirts were made of fur. The shirt could have been odorless.
Canvas or homespun trousers, wide as trousers, were gathered at the waist and tied at the feet and under the knees. Instead of straps, metal hoops were sometimes worn on the legs. Rich people wore two pairs of pants: canvas and wool.
Short or long cloaks were thrown over the shoulders, which were fastened on the chest or on one shoulder. In winter, the Slavs wore a sheepskin coat and mittens.

Woman suit

Women's clothing was the same as men's, but longer and wider and made of less rough leather and fabric. White canvas shirts below the knees were decorated with embroidery along the round neckline, hem and sleeves. Metal plates were sewn onto long skirts. In winter, women wore short capes (sleeve jackets) and fur coats.

Shoes

In the pre-Christian period, the ancient Slavs wore onuchi (canvas used to wrap the foot) with soles attached to the foot with straps, as well as boots, which were made from a whole piece of leather and tied with a belt at the ankle.

Hairstyles and hats

The ancient Slavs wore bronze hoops, round fur hats with a band, felt caps, and headbands on their heads. The men had long or semi-long hair cut at the forehead and beards.
Women wore headbands, and later scarves. Married Slavic women covered their heads with a very large scarf that went down their backs almost to their toes.
Girls let their hair down, women braided it into braids that were wrapped around their heads.

Decorations

Necklaces, beads, many chains, earrings with pendants, bracelets, hryvnias made of gold, silver, copper - these are the main jewelry for both men and women.
Women wore metal headbands, men wore hats made of bronze rings. Neck rings in the shape of a twisted hoop were also decorations; hryvnia - densely strung silver coins or a half-hoop with chains. Many pendants, mostly bronze, in the form of bells, crosses, animal figures, stars, etc., as well as beads made of green glass, amber, and bronze were attached to neck rings and chest chains.
The men sported leather belts with chased bronze plaques and long breast chains.
Women happily wore earrings with pendants, temple rings, and pinned their outerwear on their shoulders with beautiful paired pins.
Both men and women wore bracelets and rings - smooth, with patterns, or spiral-shaped.

Costume of Ancient Rus' (10-13 centuries)

After the adoption of Christianity, Byzantine customs, as well as Byzantine clothing, spread to Rus'.
The Old Russian costume of this period became long and loose; it did not emphasize the figure and gave it a static look.
Rus' traded with Eastern and Western European countries, and the nobility dressed mainly in imported fabrics, which were called “pavolok”. This includes velvet (embossed or embroidered with gold), brocade (aksamit), and taffeta (patterned silk fabric with a pattern). The cut of the clothes was simple, and they differed mainly in the quality of the fabrics.
Women's and men's outfits were richly decorated with embroidery, pearls, and trimmed with furs. The costumes of the nobility were made from expensive fur of sable, otter, marten, and beaver, and peasant clothing was made from sheepskin, hare, and squirrel fur.

Men's suit

The ancient Russian wore a shirt and pants (“ports”).
The shirt is straight, with long narrow sleeves, without a collar, with a small slit in the front, which was tied with a cord or fastened with a button. Sometimes the sleeves around the wrist were decorated with elegant ones, made of expensive fabric, with embroidered “sleeves” - a prototype of future cuffs.
Shirts were made from fabric of different colors - white, red, blue (azure), decorated with embroidery or fabric of a different color. They wore them untucked and belted. Commoners had canvas shirts, which replaced both their lower and outer clothing. Noble people wore another shirt on top of the undershirt - the upper one, which expanded downward, thanks to wedges sewn into the sides.
Portas are long, narrow, tapering pants that are tied at the waist with a cord - a “gasnik”. The peasants wore canvas portages, and the nobility wore cloth or silk ones.
The “retinue” served as outerwear. It was also straight, no lower than the knees, with long narrow sleeves, and widened at the bottom due to wedges. The retinue was girded with a wide belt, from which was hung a purse in the form of a bag - “kalita”. For winter, the retinue was made of fur.
The nobility also wore small rectangular or rounded “korzno” cloaks, which were of Byzantine-Roman origin. They were draped over the left shoulder and fastened with a buckle on the right. Or they covered both shoulders and fastened in front.

Woman suit

In Ancient Rus', women with a stately figure, a white face, a bright blush, and sable eyebrows were considered beautiful.
Russian women adopted the Eastern custom of painting their faces. They covered the face with a thick layer of rouge and white, as well as inked eyebrows and eyelashes.
Women, like men, wore a shirt, but longer, almost to the feet. Ornaments were embroidered on the shirt; it could be gathered at the neck and trimmed with a border. They wore it with a belt. Rich women had two shirts: an undershirt and an outer shirt, made of more expensive fabric.
Over the shirt was worn a skirt made of colorful fabric - “poneva”: sewn panels were wrapped around the hips and tied at the waist with a cord.
The girls wore a “cufflink” over their shirt - a rectangular piece of fabric folded in half with a hole for the head. The zapona was shorter than a shirt, was not sewn at the sides and was always belted.
Festive elegant clothing, worn over a poneva or cuff, was the “navershnik” - an embroidered tunic made of expensive fabric with short wide sleeves.

On the woman: a double shirt with a patterned belt, a cloak fastened with a brooch, pistons

On a man: a cloak-basket and a linen shirt with handrails

Grand Duke's costume

The Grand Dukes and Duchesses wore long, narrow, long-sleeved tunics, mostly blue; purple cloaks woven with gold, which were fastened on the right shoulder or chest with a beautiful buckle. The ceremonial attire of the Grand Dukes was a crown of gold and silver, decorated with pearls, semi-precious stones and enamels, and a “barma” - a wide round collar, also richly decorated with precious stones and icon medallions. The royal crown always belonged to the eldest in the grand-ducal or royal family. At the wedding, the princesses wore a veil, the folds of which, framing their faces, fell onto their shoulders.
The so-called “Monomakh’s hat”, trimmed with sable fur, with diamonds, emeralds, yachts, and a cross on top, appeared much later. There was a legend about its Byzantine origin, according to which this headdress belonged to Vladimir Monomakh’s maternal grandfather, Constantine Monomakh, and it was sent to Vladimir by the Byzantine Emperor Alexei Komnenos. However, it has been established that the Monomakh cap was made in 1624 for Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich.

prince's costume: patterned fur coat, shirt decorated with a border

princess costume: outerwear with double sleeves, Byzantine collar

On the woman: an opashen lined with fur, a hat with a satin band, pearl hems on top of the bedspread.

On a man: brocade caftan with a trumpet collar, morocco boots

Warriors costume

Old Russian warriors wore short, knee-length chain mail with short sleeves over their regular clothes. It was put on over the head and tied with a sash made of metal plaques. Chain mail was expensive, so ordinary warriors wore “kuyak” - a sleeveless leather shirt with metal plates sewn on it. The head was protected by a pointed helmet, to which a chainmail mesh (“aventail”) was attached from the inside, covering the back and shoulders. Russian soldiers fought with straight and curved swords, sabers, spears, bows and arrows, flails and axes.

Shoes

In Ancient Rus' they wore boots or bast shoes with onuchas. Onuchi were long pieces of cloth that were wrapped over the ports. The bast shoes were tied to the leg with ties. Wealthy people wore very thick stockings over their ports. The nobility wore high boots without heels, made of colored leather.
Women also wore bast shoes with onuchas or boots made of colored leather without heels, which were decorated with embroidery.

Hairstyles and hats

Men cut their hair in an even semicircle - “in a bracket” or “in a circle.” They wore a wide beard.
A hat was a mandatory element of a man's suit. They were made of felt or cloth and had the shape of a high or low cap. Round hats were trimmed with fur.

Married women walked only with their heads covered - this was a strict tradition. The worst insult for a woman was to tear off her headdress. Women did not film it even in front of close relatives. The hair was covered with a special cap - “povoinik”, and on top of it a white or red linen scarf was worn - “ubrus”. For noble women, the lining was made of silk. It was fastened under the chin, leaving the ends free, decorated with rich embroidery. Round hats made of expensive fabric with fur trim were worn over the ubrus.
Girls wore their hair loose, tied with a ribbon or braid, or braided. Most often there was only one braid - on the back of the head. The girls' headdress was a crown, often jagged. It was made from leather or birch bark and covered with gold fabric.

Source - "History in costumes. From pharaoh to dandy." Author - Anna Blaze, artist - Daria Chaltykyan

Clothing, like the costumes of any other ethnic group, is a kind of calling card. National attire, like a passport, can tell about a person’s social and territorial affiliation. And the age of its owner will also tell you.

The most important detail of the costume

Of course, Russian folk clothing has its own characteristic and distinctive features, its own zest, but there is also something in it that is inherent in most costumes of the peoples inhabiting Russia.

The most striking example is the shirt, both men's and women's, especially since in most cases they differ only in length - in men it reaches the knee, in women, as a rule, it reaches the floor. There is an assumption that this is why the bottom of the shirt is called “hem”. The length of the women's shirt is adjusted with a belt. In many, it was corrected with a “sinus”, a kind of overlap on the belt. folk tradition, like that of other ethnic groups, provided for magical protection. Particularly great importance was attached to the undershirt - it not only warmed, but also protected a person from all the holes of the shirt (collar, hem, sleeves) were trimmed with either a border, or braid, or embroidery - these were amulets, they also decorated the clothes, making them unique and eloquent.

Embroidery and braid are integral parts of the outfit

Much has been said about the fact that the national ornament is writing from the past, not fully deciphered, but telling a lot about the culture of the people. The cut of both men's and women's shirts was straight, tunic-shaped (without shoulder seams), sometimes even without an armhole. Russian folk clothing had a characteristic feature - a collar cut. He was given very great importance in the matter of preserving the soul. Maybe that’s why it is shifted to the shoulder (it’s not called a kosovorotka for nothing), and the chest was richly decorated with embroidery, serving as a talisman? It should be noted that the costume began to take shape in the 12th century.

Characteristic features of a men's suit

Men's attire is simple, comfortable and unpretentious. But thanks to him, such concepts as the background and the cache have survived to this day. The first is the inner lining of the shirt, located on the back and chest. She was adjacent directly to the body, and “knew” all its secrets. Zashashnik - a secret inner pocket on the belt supporting the shirt, which was always worn untucked. Pants, ports or gachas were straight cut and not wide - the contours of the legs were visible. They were always tucked into shoes (boots or onuchi); for ease of walking, a diamond-shaped gusset was inserted into them. The color of the shirt was predominantly white; on holidays it was bright, blue or red. It is difficult to imagine a man's outfit without a cap, and a cap without a flower. But this type of men's headdress appeared in the 19th century. And before, from time immemorial, men wore a tuffa - a small cap that they did not take off even in church. The common people wore felt hats on top.

Miracle of miracles!

Russian folk clothing is famous for the originality and beauty of women's attire. In addition to the shirt, its striking detail is the sundress and poneva. The sundress is such a characteristic element of women's clothing that it can rightfully continue the famous series of Russian symbols - birch, balalaika, bear, caviar and ballet. Countless poems, proverbs and sayings are dedicated to the Sarafan. Here are Yesenin’s lines that immediately come to mind - “a sundress at the hem with a red ruffle on white!” Poneva (“From the waist to the feet there are 77 roads”) - a skirt or was more popular in the south of the country. But even in the north, it could be worn by girls who had undergone a rite of passage (initiation), indicating that she had matured.

Variety of women's toilet accessories

The next element of clothing is an apron or apron, simple on weekdays, “wondrous” on holidays. Extolled by Vasnetsov and Surikov, the quilted jacket is a short but long-sleeved jacket with fur or lining, with gathered pleats at a cut-off, high waist. Zapona (a one-piece girl's cape, with a cutout for the head in the center), privoloka (sleeveless cape), zhupan (canvas trimmed caftan) - these are the most characteristic details of the Russian women's national costume. A special place in the outfit was given to the headdress - the most eloquent detail of the costume. Kichka and soroka, kokoshnik and povoinik are far from a complete list of hats that can tell everything about the owner. It must be noted that each province had its own details of the outfit, for example, a top or epanchiki, you can’t count them all, but without which the costume of the people of this territory was unthinkable. And Russian footwear, especially boots and bast shoes, deserve a separate article.

Passed through the centuries

Russian folk clothing (photo attached) is bright, colorful, joyful, very characteristic, and is an essential element of culture and creativity. It is recognizable at first sight, because it is familiar from childhood from dozens of paintings by famous Russian artists, from the works of Pushkin and Yesenin, from Russian folk tales.

Who is not familiar with the sundress and kokoshnik? Modern Russian folk clothing is those outfits, the integral details of which are national motifs, and the general style in which they are designed. These elements of modern clothing come from the distant past and become popular. One can recall the painted scarves, boots and sheepskin coats that came into fashion in the West after the vernissages of Russian fashion houses. And how popular linen dresses are in Russian rustic style! Comfortable and beautiful, they have been loved for many years in a row.

Every person should remember his roots and know the history of his native people. That is why I would like to consider such an important detail of Russian culture as the men's Russian folk costume.

About men

First of all, it is worth noting that ancient men's clothing was not very diverse. Unlike women's costumes, they were of the same type. The costume consisted of a shirt and pants. It is interesting that, unlike the women's suit, the men's suit emphasized the figure, while the national ladies' sundress hid it. Men also wore hats.

Textile

What materials were Russian men's clothes made from? When clothes were made entirely at home, canvas, cloth, motley cloth, and sheepskin were used. Somewhat later, with the introduction of industrial production, factory fabrics such as satin, chintz, calico and cheap wool were added.

Shirt

It was said above that the male consists of only two main units. What is the outer part of clothing? At all times it was a shirt-shirt with a high stand-up collar. As for the length, it was quite elongated, worn over pants and always tied with a belt. It could be any color, but almost always light - white, beige, grayish. The shirt was necessarily decorated with embroidery. It was located along the neck, sleeves, and bottom of the product. It was also possible to trim these items of clothing with regular braid. The color was predominantly red (especially in wedding shirts, which the bride had to decorate with embroidery), this had its own special, sacred meaning and such decoration was also a talisman. It is worth noting that all men wore shirts, starting from a very young age. It was universal clothing for any generation.

Trousers

What else is included in a men's Russian folk costume? These are pants. They were sewn from striped fabric, preferably blue, and were slightly shortened, because... tucked into onuchi or boots. As for the width, they were more often tight-fitting, although some wore something like bloomers. Until the fashion for pockets came, a pouch and a comb were simply tied to the belt.

Belt

An important detail of the costume is the belt with which men were tied. For young guys it was wide and long, for married guys it was narrower and shorter. It is interesting that young men tied it around the waist, and old men, as a symbol of respectable age, tied it under the stomach.

Headdress

What else should you not forget to complement the Russian folk men's costume? Photos may suggest that at all times men wore hats. Previously, these were gray sinners, sometimes - straw hats (in summer), and somewhat later - caps - a special type of cap (it is worth noting that these headdresses were always decorated with ribbons, beads, flowers, braid.). Winter option - malachi and earflaps.

Outerwear

What else is rich in men? The pictures indicate that, depending on the time of year, men wore fur coats, caftans, sheepskin coats, and retinues. If the family was richer, the outerwear could be decorated. If the family was poorer, the collars were made high, standing up, to better protect against cold and frost.