At what temperature do potatoes grow in September? How to determine the readiness of potatoes for harvesting (tuber ripeness) What temperature should it be for potatoes to grow

Potatoes are the most important food crop, the main food product, our second bread - it really ranks second in consumption after bread. It is also a valuable dietary product: it is rich in minerals (especially potassium), vitamins, and proteins. Every gardener can grow a sufficient amount of potatoes in a small area, but to do this you need to know the characteristics of this crop, the most important agricultural techniques, and varieties.

Potatoes are a light-loving plant; even slight shading greatly impairs its growth and significantly reduces the yield. When there is insufficient lighting, the stems stretch out, turn pale, the plant blooms poorly and produces few tubers. Under normal conditions, the stem of the plant reaches 40 - 80 cm. The root system is located mainly in the fertile soil layer at a depth of 22 - 25 cm. The optimal temperature for flowering is 18 - 21 °; at higher temperatures the plant sheds flowers and buds. For tuberization, a temperature of 16 - 18° is required. Potatoes cannot tolerate negative temperatures and even with slight frosts (minus 1°) they die. At a temperature of 28 - 30°, tuberization is inhibited, the growing season is shortened, and this leads to a decrease in yield.

Potatoes are demanding of soil moisture, but do not tolerate waterlogging. Uniform soil moisture is an important condition for normal plant development. During periodic droughts, the lower leaves wither and dry out, the stems underdevelop, the tubers grow small, and as a result, the yield decreases.

To obtain a good harvest, you need loose, fertile, structural soil: the root system of potatoes consumes much more oxygen than the roots of other plants. The taste and friability of the tubers depend on the access of oxygen to the root system. In heavy clay soils, as a rule, there is high compaction and often increased moisture - under these conditions, ugly, small tubers with low taste are formed. Compost and sand must be added to such soils to improve their physical properties. The reaction of the soil solution is preferably slightly acidic (pH 5.5 - 6.0). Potatoes also tolerate high acidity, and at the same time respond well to liming.

To obtain an early harvest, a lighted area with well-warmed soil is allocated for potatoes. The best predecessors are any vegetables except tomatoes and potatoes.

Potatoes are responsive to the application of mineral and organic fertilizers. The plant consumes many nutrients during the period of growth of the above-ground mass (budding - flowering phase); later, in the formation of the crop, the nutrients accumulated in the tops are used, and the consumption of substances from the soil is somewhat reduced.

The area reserved for potatoes is dug up to its full depth in the fall. If the fertile layer is small, it is gradually deepened, adding 3 - 5 cm every year, and so the depth is brought to 28 - 30 cm. At the same time, humus or compost per 1 square meter is added under the shovel. m 4 - 5 kg, and on poor and sandy soils - 7 - 9 kg. Fresh manure is not applied to potatoes: it increases the incidence of various diseases on the tubers. In the fall, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are scattered and covered: per 1 sq. m 20 - 25 g of double granulated superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In the spring, the area is dug up and ammonium nitrate is added per 1 square meter. m 15 - 20 g on rich soils or 20 - 25 g on poor and sandy soils. If possible, it is better to replace ammonium nitrate with ammonium sulfate, and potassium chloride with potassium sulfate or potassium magnesium, which contains magnesium in addition to potassium. Magnesium, as a rule, is lacking in acidic soils, and its application with fertilizer increases the quality of tubers (starchiness). Enhanced phosphorus-potassium nutrition accelerates crop ripening and increases plant resistance to diseases and low temperatures. When cultivating potatoes, you must use nitrogen fertilizers with caution: with an excess of nitrogen, the plant is more susceptible to diseases, the tubers are stored less well, and nitrates accumulate in them. With a simultaneous excess of nitrogen and a lack of potassium, the tuber pulp darkens and the taste is lost.

To get an early harvest, you need to plant early varieties and only healthy planting material that is well prepared for planting. Sick, ugly tubers should not be planted. Seed tubers should weigh 80 - 100 g; they produce the most productive plants.

2 - 3 weeks before planting, the seeds are removed from the basement and placed in boxes in 1 - 2 layers for drying. The potatoes are warming up and the eyes on the tubers are awakening. Pulling out sprouts should not be allowed.

To obtain even earlier shoots, the tubers are germinated. A month and a half before planting, seed potatoes are brought into a warm, bright room, placed in low boxes or narrow film bags of 6 - 8 kg. Holes are made in the bags for ventilation. This germination can also be done in a greenhouse at a temperature of 14 -15°. At higher temperatures, germination occurs faster. The normal length of sprouts is 8 - 10 mm. A week before planting, sprouted tubers can be carefully placed in boxes of 5 - 6 rows each and sprinkled with sawdust or peat chips, and then moistened with a solution of mineral fertilizers: 10 - 12 g of ammonium nitrate, 10 - 12 g of simple superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water and 5 g of potassium chloride (or potassium sulfate). Wet growing is done at the same temperature (14 - 15°). With the same preparation, roots are formed on the tubers at the base of the sprouts. When planting planting material prepared in this way, seedlings appear 10 - 12 days earlier than usual.

If the tubers are large, they can be cut. Each pruning should have at least 2 - 3 eyes, the weight of the pruning should be at least 40 g. The tubers are cut in advance so that the cut site is corked before planting.

To speed up the germination of tubers, they are dusted with stove ash or sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (1 g per 10 liters of water, 150 g of solution per 10 kg of seeds).

Potatoes are planted when the soil at a depth of 8 - 10 cm warms up to 6 - 8°. Sprouted potatoes can be planted at slightly lower temperatures.

If the soil is waterlogged, potatoes are planted on a ridge 10 - 12 cm high. Planting on ridges improves the air and thermal conditions of the soil. On light soils, ridges are not made. The planting depth on light soils is 10 - 12 cm, on light loam soils - 8 - 10 cm, on heavy loams - 6 - 8 cm. Potatoes are planted in rows, 60 cm between rows, 35 - 40 cm in a row. Large tubers are planted a little deeper and less often than small and medium ones. Plant the tubers with the sprouts facing up. Before and after emergence, potato plantings are harrowed with a rake, destroying weeds and soil crust. When the tops reach 10 - 12 cm, the soil is loosened with hoes. They do several loosenings, heaping the plants each time. The lighter the soil, the less tillage is required. During treatments, especially during the last hilling, it is necessary to visually determine whether the plants are suffering from a lack of basic nutrients, and feed them. Poor and medium-fertile soils often require fertilizing with nitrogen and potassium, while rich soils require only potassium fertilization. For a 10-liter bucket of water, 25 - 30 g of fertilizers are used, watering the soil at a distance of 12 - 15 cm from the plants. You can do dry fertilizing and then water it. Spraying potatoes in the budding phase with a 0.005% solution of sodium humate accelerates the ripening of potatoes by 5 - 6 days.

During the period from flowering to the end of the growing season, plants consume a lot of water, but heavy soils must be watered with caution, since excessive moisture can lead to rotting of the tubers.

Harvest potatoes before the onset of stable frosts, in warm and dry weather. The higher the air temperature during harvesting, the less mechanical damage to the tubers, the better the potatoes will be stored.

7-10 days before harvesting, the tops are mowed, resulting in the outflow of nutrients from the tops into the tubers. This contributes to their better ripening, rapid formation of a strong peel, and increases preservation. It is better to dig potatoes with a garden fork or shovel from the row-spacing side, being careful not to damage the tubers. Also, during harvesting, tubers are selected for seeds and placed in a separate container.

Potatoes should be stored for storage 8 - 10 days after harvesting, so that the wounds received during harvesting on the tubers heal, so that the tubers ripen - this will improve their keeping quality. Mechanical damage to tubers heals faster with free access to air oxygen and a temperature of 16 - 18° in the first days after harvesting.

For early consumption, early varieties are grown: Ermak improved, Iskra, Kolpashevsky, Sedov, Tulunsky early, Pioneer.

I planted potatoes as seedlings, now I’m thinking - when should I plant them at the dacha? You can protect from frost, and covering such a quantity is not a problem.

I know about planting potatoes - when the birch tree is covered with a “green haze”. What other signs? I found a hint on the temperature on the Internet.

(This was confirmed by the experiments of Oleg Telepov, a famous potato grower)

For most potato varieties, the most favorable soil temperature for tuber formation is 15-19 degrees, which corresponds to an air temperature of 21-25 degrees. At soil temperatures below 6 and above 23 degrees, tuber growth decreases sharply, and at 26-29 degrees it stops.

If during the period of formation and growth of tubers there is prolonged hot weather (30-40°C), this causes “ecological” degeneration of potatoes. It consists of metabolic disorders and a sharp decrease in the yield and seed qualities of tubers.

What Mwe know about potatoes(Interesting Facts) How many varieties of potatoes are known in the world? (More than 3400.) What should be the average weight of seed tubers? (50–80 g) At what soil temperature should potatoes not be planted? (Below +7...+8 °C.) At what negative air temperature do the tops begin to turn black? (From –1 to –1.5 °C.). At what depth should tubers be planted? (For clay soils - 6–8 cm, for sandy loam 10–12 cm.) How many days do tubers usually germinate before planting? (30–35.) At what temperature is it best to germinate tubers? (8–14 °C.) How many days after planting do potato shoots usually appear? (After 20–30.) How many days after germination does flowering begin? (After 30–40.) How many days after planting do the early varieties harvest? (After 55–65.) How many days after planting do late varieties harvest? (More than 110.) What is the average potato yield in Russia? (250–300 c/ha.) How many stems does a potato bush usually consist of (4–5, less often 6–8.) How many days before harvesting is it recommended to remove the tops? (For 10–14.) What is the optimal distance between rows and between tubers when planting by hand? (70 cm and 30–40 cm.) If planting has to be done in parts of the tuber, what minimum mass should they have? (30 g.) How many eyes should there be on the cut part of the seed tuber? (1–2.) On average, how many buckets of potatoes are needed for planting on one hundred square meters? (3.) At what temperature is it best to store potatoes? (+5–7 °C.) At what temperature do the tubers develop a sweet taste? (+1–2 °C.) How long after the emergence of seedlings is the first hilling carried out? How long after the first hilling is the second hilling carried out?

(Some tricks for growing potatoes) Potatoes are grown by all rural residents and many city dwellers. It is believed that it is easy to grow and everyone knows how to do it.

In practice, potatoes actually grow almost everywhere; they are not as demanding as other types of root crops and caring for them is not very difficult. This is true, but what kind of potatoes will grow, what kind of harvest will be and at what time is often not taken into account, but in vain, your work must be appreciated and, in addition, the profitability of your farm and a very pleasant feeling of satisfaction with the results of your efforts depend on this.

Everyone is accustomed to the fact that planted potatoes will sprout on the 21st day, will grow until autumn, and are harvested in September. This is traditional, with everyone together and of course there is no sales (mass cleaning is underway), there is no normal price, the income is either meager or zero.

But if you work thoughtfully and diligently, you can have a completely different result. Do you want to grow an excellent harvest, harvest it in June, sell it at a good price and make a profit? I see you want it. Then be patient and read this page to the end.

How to grow early potatoes. The site is selected on a hill, which dries out in the spring earlier than others. The composition is better than loam.

In the spring, add potassium and phosphorus.

Early and mid-early varieties are taken.

Germinate at a temperature of 12-15 degrees in 30-35 days.

You can germinate in the light or in the basement with electric lighting, while the tubers are laid out in 2-3 layers.

Every week, spray with copper sulfate, boric acid or potassium permanganate (m. vitriol - 2 g per 10 liters of water, b. acid - 50 g per 10 liters of water, potassium permanganate - 10 g per 10 liters of water).

Tubers with short thick shoots are ready for planting.

If germination has not been carried out, then a week before planting, you can keep the potatoes in a bright room at a temperature of 15 degrees to warm up.

It is better to plant whole tubers - 70-80g (chicken egg), but you can also cut them, leaving 2-3 sprouts on each part. Cut 2-3 days before planting. Disinfect cutting knives (potassium permanganate) or heat them on fire for 10 seconds.

Planting in late April - early May at a soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm equal to 8 degrees Celsius.

If there is a threat of frost, hill up (you can fill up completely, it will break through).

With a height of 10-12 cm, it is necessary to carry out hilling and loosening of row spacing.

A month after planting, feed the sulfate with ammonium (25 g per sq. m.) or urea (12 g. per sq. m.).

At the beginning of budding, the second feeding (potassium 30-50g per 10 liters of water).

Garden!!!

Cleaning can begin at the end of June. Complete removal by August 1st.After harvesting, green the potatoes in the light for 10-15 days, which will be used for seeds.

It is strictly forbidden to green food products.If you do everything as written, you will be in grief. Act with God!

After planting potatoes, there is no need to worry at first; we all know that potatoes take a long time to sprout, and we just need to wait. But when there are still no shoots, you involuntarily begin to worry: is everything okay? Our relatives had a real case when the potatoes did not sprout at all! So, when to expect potato sprouts to appear, why are they not friendly and why did our relatives’ potatoes not sprout...

The dependence of the emergence of potato seedlings on soil temperature or When to plant potatoes?

The most important factor in the successful emergence of potato seedlings is the soil temperature. If the soil has warmed up at a depth of 10-12 cm to 7..8 degrees (the average daily temperature is usually +8 degrees) - you can start planting potatoes. Of course, not All gardeners check the soil temperature with a thermometer in their hands. You can trust folk signs, or rather, natural conventional signs.

For example, the time of flowering and blooming of perennial plants. When to plant potatoes? According to popular wisdom, we begin planting as soon as the leaves on the birch tree become the size of a penny coin. Signs of soil warming and natural indicators for the start of sowing work - in THIS ARTICLE

When will potato shoots appear?

When the soil warms up to +10 degrees, potato seedlings appear in 23-25 days. When the soil temperature is 18-20 degrees, seedlings appear in 10-20 days. Sprouted potatoes sprout 6-10 days earlier. If planting occurs early, there is no need to bury the tubers, they will “sit” for a long time, the upper layers warm up faster, and if planted shallowly, the potatoes will sprout faster. If the soil moisture is more than 75%, planting potatoes is not advisable , in such conditions there is a high probability of tubers being damaged by putrefactive diseases.

Why are there uneven shoots?

There are several reasons for the appearance of uneven shoots:

Various planting depths. The soil warms up unevenly - and those tubers that are closer to the surface sprout earlier, those that lie deeper wait for warmer weather.
Planting tubers of various sizes.
Unevenly sprouted tubers, or not sprouted at all.
A mixture of varieties of different ripening periods, with different dormant periods. You've probably noticed that each variety behaves differently during storage. Much depends on the rest period. Those varieties in which it is short are in no way intended for long-term storage, only for processing (for example, for chips). But there are also well-stored varieties - their dormant period is quite long. If you have a mixture of varieties, it is quite possible that seedlings will appear at different times.

Can potatoes not sprout at all?

Quite, our relatives had such a sad experience. And the whole issue turned out to be improper storage of planting material. The planting potatoes were stored in the cellar, as always, but... they were not poured out of white synthetic bags.

So it stood in them until spring. Everything seemed to be fine, they planted potatoes, but they still didn’t see any shoots. Such negligence cost a lot of money and nerves; at the beginning of summer I had to look for new potatoes and plant them again. But now we all have a lesson - we try not to leave potatoes in white bags even for a short time and always remember this incident. Caring for potatoes after planting: detailed instructions HERE

How many days should it take for potato shoots to appear?

polygraph 2 years ago krusu 2 years ago

I noticed that if I plant in warm, moist soil, the potatoes sprout normally within a week and a half. But at the same time, the planting material itself should be normal; if you harden the potatoes before planting for at least two weeks, then they will grow much better and suffer less.

It all depends on the soil, the depth of planting of the tuber, humidity, ambient temperature, the seeds (variety) themselves, and the length of the sprouted eyes. In general, there are quite a lot of factors, on average it will germinate in one or two weeks and then unevenly, somewhere it will sprout, somewhere later, then you need to harrow, hill up, collect beetles - you won’t get around to it.

And without manure, peas will grow, not potatoes. And if you sprinkle chemical fertilizers from the store, a large one will grow, but with nitrates.

commentLarca more than a month ago

We plant potatoes in late April - early May. And it happens that potatoes planted in April “sit” in the ground longer than those planted in May.

Digging potatoes with a Maxi fan digger. Harvest 2014

Factors that come into play here are: warming up of the soil and air, humidity and variety. If the soil is well warmed up and moistened, and the vernalization of potatoes is carried out correctly, then expect potato seedlings within 10 days. If you planted “like everyone else,” then after 2-3 weeks Shoots should appear.

Comment

potato, hilling, methods, vegetable garden and beds Even those who have never planted them probably know that potatoes need to be hilled. But how to do it correctly? It turns out there are some little tricks here.

When to start hilling?

A variety of answers can be found in the literature to this question. The guideline in all recommendations is the height of the shoots, but different numbers are given: from 14 to 20 cm. I myself prefer to start hilling as early as possible.

In this case, I focus, however, not on centimeters, but on the signals of a completely irrational “device” - intuition :)) Over time, probably, every gardener develops such an instinct: you just look at the plants and understand what exactly they need now. In fact, early hilling replaces both weeding and the recommended loosening of the soil.

In our unstable climate, it also serves as protection of seedlings from return frosts. Traditionally, potatoes are planted in early May. And in the second half of the month - just at the time of emergence - cold weather usually arrives.

Covered with a layer of soil, the sprouts calmly tolerate even a short-term drop in temperature just below zero (this also happens...) I have noticed more than once: after hilling the potatoes seem to accelerate growth.

If the weather is favorable, the bushes grow and get stronger literally before our eyes. Therefore, I am never too lazy to once again walk along the rows with a hoe, loosening the soil and rolling it to the ridges.

How many times to hill?

Classic - 2 hillings: the second is carried out 2-3 weeks after the first, before the potatoes bloom. But if you start this event early enough, two times is not enough.

In this matter, too, I prefer to focus not on abstract “norms”, but on the needs of real plants. If the grown bushes fall apart, or the nest does not form along the ridge, but grows across, in breadth, and tubers begin to peek out of the ground, turning green in the light, it is necessary to spud up, no matter what they say.

I happened to hill up potatoes 3 and 4 times a season. Some will say that this is too labor-intensive... I don’t know, for me weeding is much more tedious.

And then I walked across the field with a hoe - and the soil is loose, and there are no weeds, and the potato bushes are vigorous and beautiful, even)) And then they thank me with an excellent harvest.

What is the best time for hilling?

During potato hilling season, you can often see gardeners with hoes in the fields in the middle of a hot summer day. And this is neither good for health nor good for the plant. While hilling, we still disturb it, we touch the shoots, and sometimes we accidentally disturb the underground part.

In the heat, all this becomes critical, and the plants can wilt. Therefore, in hot weather, potatoes should be earthed in the morning or evening, when the sun's activity decreases. It is best to do hilling after rain.

The benefit is double. Firstly, wet soil does not fall off the ridge. Secondly, by adding moisture-saturated soil to the base of the stems, we stimulate the formation of additional stolons (underground shoots on which potato tubers are formed) - and this increases the yield.

In one of the posts, we shared the secret of how to get it - but the yield of potatoes and the number of tubers, and of course their weight and marketability can be increased even when this is not possible. To do this, you simply need to know the conditions that are most favorable for potato growth and try to comply with them when caring for potatoes.

Potatoes, like any other plant, require care and the most common conditions for normal growth and development - light, heat, water, nutrients, as well as oxygen from the air.

The physiological law of irreplaceability and equal importance of all environmental factors operates here, that is, any missing factor cannot be replaced by others. For example, it is impossible to compensate for the lack of light with nutrients or heat, or to replace nitrogen with potassium or phosphorus. Each element plays only its significant role, and its absence affects the biology of the plant either by inhibiting its growth and development, or by complete death.

The requirements of the potato plant to environmental conditions at different periods of life are not the same. In addition, different plant organs exhibit different reactions to the same factor. For example, a temperature of 12 degrees significantly inhibits plant growth, but it has a beneficial effect on tuber formation.

Due to their origin from mountainous regions, the best conditions for potato growth and development are a temperate climate, uniform distribution of precipitation, low temperature, short daylight hours and high air humidity. These are the conditions that are most favorable for the growth and development of this valuable crop.

But at the same time, potatoes are characterized by high plasticity, thanks to which they can be grown in a wide variety of soil and climatic conditions.

Optimal temperatures for growing potatoes

With regard to temperature conditions, potatoes exhibit specificity in various phases of their development. These data are shown in Table 1.

Table 1 - Potato response to temperature at different phases of development
Phases of potato development	Temperature limits (°C)
Phases of potato development		optimal
Kidney development
eyes, tubers	3 -6		30 -31
Sprout development			30 -31
Tops development	5 -6
Tuberization		11 -17	26 -29

Potato plants develop better in cool summer conditions. The buds of the eyes awaken at 3-6 degrees. Tubers begin to germinate intensively at soil temperatures of 7-12 degrees, but this process occurs faster at 20 degrees. Potato roots form at temperatures not lower than 7 degrees, so you can start planting them only when the soil at a depth of 10-14 centimeters warms up to 7-8 degrees.

For mass emergence of seedlings, the optimal air temperature is within 15-25 degrees. At very low and very high temperatures, germination rates slow down.

At a temperature of 3-5 degrees, in some potato varieties, growth is so weakened that the buds on the tubers begin to develop without the formation of a root system.

At temperatures below 3-5 and above 31 - 35 degrees, their growth and development are suspended, and the presence of potato tubers for several days at a soil temperature of 1 - 1.5 degrees or 35-40 degrees usually leads to severe damage to the buds and tubers, from which it is already difficult to obtain normal, well-developing plants.

Potato seedlings require cool, moist weather to develop. At this time, tender young plants are equally sensitive to both cold and heat and dry winds.

Potato tops begin to grow at an air temperature of about 5-6 degrees, and their maximum growth occurs in moderately moist soil and 17-22 degrees. At temperatures above 42-45 degrees, tops growth stops, and at 50 degrees the plant withers and may die.

The tops are also sensitive to low temperatures. When there is frost minus 1 - 1.5 degrees, the plants turn black and die. Therefore, when growing early potatoes, the choice of site is of great importance. Thus, in low areas, where cold air stagnates in the morning, seedlings are more often damaged by frost than in higher areas.

The most favorable temperature for potato flowering is 18-21 degrees. Hotter weather causes the flowers and buds to drop. Typically, at a temperature of 27-29 degrees, flowering stops.

The flowers themselves have no economic significance. The presence or absence of flowers on potato plants does not affect its yield. Therefore, there is no point in doing a lot of manual work to remove flowers, which is practiced by some potato growers.

For most, the most favorable soil temperature for tuber formation is 15-19 degrees, which corresponds to an air temperature of 21-25 degrees. At soil temperatures below 6 and above 23 degrees, tuber growth decreases sharply, and at 26-29 degrees it stops.

High temperatures combined with long daylight hours cause the transformation of stolons into above-ground shoots and the growth of tubers. On the other hand, heat and drought promote the formation of a large number of stolons and their branching, resulting in an increase in the number of small tubers.

If during the period of formation and growth of tubers there is prolonged hot weather (30-40 ° C), this causes “ecological” degeneration of potatoes. It consists of metabolic disorders and a sharp decrease in the yield and seed qualities of tubers.

During hot and dry periods, the growth of young tubers stops; apical eyes sprout on them, which form sprouts and secondary tubers at soil temperatures above 20-30 degrees. At temperatures above 29 degrees, such sprouts develop into above-ground stems, and then form their own root system and above-ground mass. This overgrowth of tubers significantly reduces the yield and its quality.

Watering and humidity regime for potatoes

Potatoes are also highly demanding when it comes to soil moisture and watering. Its moisture requirement changes according to developmental phases. When buds germinate and sprouts form, it is almost entirely covered by the mother tuber.

With the onset of budding and flowering, which coincides with the period of tuberization in most varieties, the need for moisture in potatoes increases sharply. Prolonged drought during this period leads to a sharp decrease in yield and significantly worsens both the marketable and seed qualities of tubers.

The experience of potato growers shows that the best growth and development of potato plants, as well as high yields, are obtained in cases where soil moisture throughout the entire growing season until the tops begin to die and prepare for harvesting is maintained at 70-80% of the highest moisture capacity. And this in the southern arid zones with unstable and irregular precipitation requires mandatory irrigation.

The positive role of irrigation is multi-valued. Firstly, it improves the microclimate of crops and significantly reduces soil temperature. Even on the hottest days, the soil temperature at a depth of 15 centimeters does not exceed 16-18 degrees, while in areas without irrigation this temperature rises to 25 degrees and higher, which sharply reduces the yield of varieties. When using optimal irrigation regimes, the growth rate of tubers is more than 2 times, and above-ground organs - 1.5-1.7 times higher than on control plantings without irrigation.

On the other hand, severe waterlogging of the soil is also detrimental to potatoes. Under such conditions, tuber formation stops, and tubers “suffocate” and rot due to lack of oxygen.

The first sign of soil waterlogging and oxygen starvation is the growth of white lentil tubers on the surface. Flooding of the soil with a layer of water is especially dangerous.

By the end of the growing season, when the main crop has already been formed, the potato's need for moisture decreases. During this period, in warm, dry weather, a thick, strong skin forms on the tubers, protecting them from mechanical damage during harvesting and ensuring good preservation in the winter.

Rainy weather delays ripening and promotes the formation of delicate peels that are easily damaged during harvesting.

Potatoes make good use of moisture in the air. Droplets of dew or fog that settle on the leaves are absorbed by glandular hairs.

In addition to moisture, potatoes place high demands on the air regime of the soil, especially during the period of tuberization. Young tubers are characterized by increased respiratory activity, and this requires a free supply of air oxygen to the soil.

The air regime of the soil is determined by its density: the less it is in the tuberization zone, the better the supply of oxygen to the root system and the higher the yield. The average density should be 0.9-1.2 g/cm2. In this case, gas exchange between soil and atmospheric air is more active.

In excessively moist, highly compacted soils, the oxygen content decreases sharply. In such conditions, roots grow very poorly and their absorption capacity decreases.

On dense soils, seedlings are delayed, potato tubers set late and do not have time to form an early harvest. High potato yields can be obtained only in cases where the soil is maintained in a loose state throughout the entire growing season.

Potato light requirements

Potatoes are a very light-loving plant. With a lack of light, it produces fewer tubers and they are of poor quality. In weakly shaded places, the stems are stretched and the formation of young tubers is delayed.

With strong shading, the tops have tender, fragile and elongated stems, and in the soil, instead of tubers, long white stolons with a slight thickening at the ends develop, that is, tuberization in these cases may not be observed at all.

During tuber germination, good lighting promotes the formation of short, thick green sprouts. On the contrary, in the absence or insufficient light, the seedlings are white, long, and easily break off during spring sorting and planting.

In the southern regions, excess sunlight at high air temperatures inhibits the development of plants and reduces their productivity. In this case, weak natural shading by trees or tall growing plants (corn, sorghum) has a positive effect on yield.

Fertilizing potatoes - what and how best to fertilize them

Mineral fertilizers have a very strong influence on the growth and development of potatoes. On average, for every 10 tons of tubers, potatoes remove from the soil about 50 kilograms of nitrogen, 20 phosphorus and 90 kilograms of potassium. Therefore, in order to obtain high, stable yields, mineral fertilizers must be regularly added to the soil.

Nitrogen nutrition has a direct impact on the growth, development and productivity of the crop. Plants use mainly mineral nitrogen compounds (nitrates), which are easily absorbed by the root system.

Lack of nitrogen nutrition manifests itself in weak growth and branching of stems - all leaves become pale green in color, and the lower ones fall off early; the supply of carbohydrates to the tubers decreases, so the yield decreases.

For potato plants, both a lack and an excess of nitrogen fertilizer are equally harmful. Excess nitrogen in the soil, which comes with the application of mineral fertilizers, causes excessive growth of tops to the detriment of the development of tubers (plants become fattened). In addition, the ripening period of tubers is significantly delayed.

Phosphorus nutrition accelerates the growth and development of plants, promotes better development of the root system, leads to earlier formation of tubers and the accumulation of large amounts of starch in them. In addition, the presence of phosphorus fertilizers in the soil significantly increases the resistance of plants to drought.

With a lack of phosphorus, plant growth slows down and leaves become small. All this leads to significant crop shortages.

Potassium, like phosphorus, is a necessary and irreplaceable element of the mineral nutrition of potatoes. It promotes more intense photosynthesis, accelerates the movement of carbohydrates from leaves to tubers, and increases the relative resistance of plants to drought and frost.

With a lack of potassium in the soil, the leaves become dark green with a bronze tint to the tissues along the edges. Then they yellow and wither.

The effect of one or another fertilizer element on potatoes depends on the availability of other nutrients to the soil. For example, with a lack of potassium, potatoes use ammonia nitrogen very poorly.

In the central regions of potato growing, the crop needs the maximum amount of nutrients in July, in the more northern regions - in July-August, and in the southern regions - in June.

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: Table of drugs to combat...

Periods of growth and development.

Table 1

Dates of onset of vegetation phases

Vegetation phases	Onset date	Duration of interphase periods, days	Depth of the root system by phases, see.
Landing	II ten days of May	15-20	12
Shoots	May 30-June 6	18-22	20
Budding	June 21-25	15-25	60
Bloom	July 7-17	20-25	120
Withering of the tops	August 5-9	10-15	150

The depth of the root system by phase is indicated at the beginning of the development phase.

There are five main periods in the development of potatoes.

The first period is from germination of tubers to emergence of seedlings. When a biological minimum temperature occurs in the tuber, the intensity of respiration increases and starch is converted into sugar, which moves through the vascular bundles to the axillary buds of the tuber - the eyes. The buds in the eyes swell and sprout. The eyes of the apical part of the tuber are more viable and germinate before the lower ones. This phenomenon is called apical dominance (apical germination). To obtain more shoots per tuber, apical shoots are removed before pre-germination.

The second period is from the emergence of seedlings to the beginning of the formation of generative organs. During this period, active formation of stems, leaves and root systems occurs.

The third period is from the appearance of buds to the flowering of plants. The first period of stolon formation. Having reached a certain size, the last internode of the stolon thickens and a young tuber is formed. During this period, intensive growth of tops continues, plants require the greatest amount of moisture and nutrients. At this stage, the mass of tops increases. The growth of tubers is insignificant. Tuber formation begins 2...5 weeks after emergence. Typically, one stem forms from 2.5 to 4.5 tubers, and the weight ranges from 90... 100 to 350... 400 g, so if you keep only one stem in the bush, you can get at least 4 additional tubers in addition to the existing ones. .5 tons of products from 1 hectare. The number of main stems depends on the mass of the tuber, the size of the sprouts, the physiological state of the planting material, and cultivation technology. The optimal stem density is 200...220 thousand stems per 1 hectare.

The fourth period covers flowering and continues until the tops stop growing, almost until they begin to wither; at this time, the most intensive growth of tubers occurs and up to 65...75% of the final harvest is formed. Weather conditions during this period affect the harvest. In some years, the average daily increase in tuber yield reaches 2.5...2.8 t/ha. Increases of 1.0...1.5 t/ha in certain relatively short periods are observed almost everywhere.

The fifth period is from the cessation of top growth and the beginning of its death to the physiological maturation of tubers. The growth of tubers still continues, but less intensively than in the fourth period. From the withering tops, a significant part of the nutrients goes into the tubers. The accumulation of substances in the tubers is completed, the tubers reach physiological ripeness and enter a dormant state.

Depending on the variety, degree of maturity, and storage conditions, tubers can remain in a state of natural dormancy for 2...4 months. Next, to prevent premature germination, potato tubers are placed in conditions of forced dormancy, reducing the air temperature during storage to 2...4°C.

The duration of each period is different for varieties of different early ripening. For early ripening varieties, from germination to the beginning of flowering, it takes 27...36 days, depending on the weather, for mid-ripening varieties - 38, for late-ripening ones - 46...48 days. Intensive accumulation of harvest in early-ripening varieties continues for 26...28 days, in mid-early varieties - 34...36, and in mid- and late-ripening varieties - for 43...45 days.

Heat requirements. Potatoes are a temperate climate crop. Growth processes slow down at soil temperatures below 7...8 and above 25 °C. Increased soil temperature promotes greater formation and branching of trunks, i.e., leads to increased growth phenomena to the detriment of tuber yield.

At prolonged air temperatures above 30 C, the assimilation activity of potato leaves almost stops, which leads to a stop in the growth of tubers and the coarsening of their skin. During such periods, the intensity of respiration increases, the consumption of carbohydrates exceeds their accumulation, which delays tuberization.

Tubers that have passed the dormant period and are planted in the soil begin to germinate at a temperature of 3...5 ° C, but very weak growth and development of buds occurs without the formation of a root system. Temperatures of -1°C are detrimental to potato tubers, which is primarily due to their high (up to 75% or more) water content. However, in some years, due to the gradual cooling of the tubers in the autumn and the accumulation of a significant amount of sugar in them (sometimes up to 8%), they can even overwinter in the soil.

Tubers exposed to low positive temperatures during storage acquire a sweet taste due to the formation of sugars. When the tubers are then kept at room temperature, the sugars turn into starch and normal taste is restored.

Potato roots usually form when the soil temperature is not lower than 70C. At lower temperatures, planted tubers lie in the soil for a long time; new tubers can form on their surface due to the available nutrients without the appearance of above-ground organs. This phenomenon can often be observed when planting potatoes in cold, waterlogged soil or, conversely, in too dry soil. The optimal temperature for germination of tubers is 18...200C. In this case, seedlings appear on the 10...12th day after planting, while at a soil temperature of 7°C, seedlings often appear after 30...35 and even 50 days. The best conditions for tuber formation occur when the soil temperature is 16...19°C.

The sum of active temperatures (100C and above) during the growing season, necessary for the full development of plants of early and mid-early varieties, is on average 1000...1400C, late-ripening - 1400...1600C.

Moisture requirements. Potatoes are a plant that requires soil moisture. Its transpiration coefficient is 400...550. The moisture requirement of potatoes varies according to growth phases. For potato germination, the moisture from the mother tuber is sufficient. Therefore, dry and warm weather during this period is most favorable for potato development. The critical period is the beginning of flowering phase. Lack of moisture in the soil during this period leads to a significant reduction in tuber yield.

The most favorable conditions for the growth and development of potatoes are created when soil moisture is from 60 to 100% MPV.

To ensure high potato yields in the middle zone, it is necessary that at least 300 mm of precipitation fall during the growing season.

Light requirements. According to the modern photoperiodic classification of plants, cultivated potato varieties are classified as short-day plants, but in mid-latitude conditions they can be cultivated with long days. Shortening the length of the day speeds up plant development. A long day enhances the growth of tops, the power of which determines the amount of photosynthesis products necessary for the growth of tubers. Therefore, the total yield of tubers with long days is usually higher than with short days. However, this cannot serve as a basis for classifying potatoes as long-day plants.

Potatoes are rightly considered a light-loving plant. Even with a slight decrease in lighting, yellowing of the tops, elongation of the stems, weakening or complete absence of flowering and a decrease in tuber yield are observed. Excessively thickened or sparse plantings cannot ensure high potato yields.

Potato tubers that have been exposed to light for several days after being dug out of the soil turn green - chlorophyll and solanine are formed in them. Under the influence of direct or diffuse light, the solanine content increases from 2...10 to 30...40 mg per 100 g of tubers. Solanine is then converted into solanine glycosyl, which is an antiseptic substance. For seed potatoes, such landscaping is useful, since thanks to it the tubers are reliably protected from diseases and rodents during autumn-winter storage.

Soil requirements. Potatoes are not very picky about soil conditions, but they produce the greatest yields on well-cultivated, aerated soils, since their root system is very sensitive to the lack of oxygen in the soil. The root system experiences the highest need for oxygen during the period of tuberization. To have a sufficient amount of oxygen in the soil, it is necessary to keep it loose. Loose soil promotes good development of stolons and young tubers, which in compacted soil are small and often severely deformed.

Potatoes form a good harvest on medium and heavy loams with a soil density of 1.1...1.2 g/cm 3, on light sandy and loamy soils - 1.4... 1.5 and on medium loamy chernozems - 0.9 ...1.1 g/cm 3 . Potato seedlings on compacted (up to 1.35...1.50 g/cm 3), loamy soils appear 5...6 days later than on loose soils (with a density of 1.1...1.2 g /cm 3).

Potatoes can be successfully grown on fertilized sandy loam and loamy chernozems. In the Non-Chernozem Zone, well-cultivated soddy-podzolic and gray forest soils are suitable for it. Cultivated peat bogs are also widely used for potatoes, especially when grown for seed purposes. Due to the high assimilation capacity of the root system, potatoes can grow on relatively poor soils, but one cannot count on high yields of tubers. Heavy loams and highly compacted soils, especially with close groundwater, are unsuitable for potatoes, as are saline soils.

Potatoes tolerate slightly acidic soils relatively well, especially when applied with organic fertilizers. The best conditions for plant growth are created at pHsol 5...6. On strongly acidic and alkaline soils, potato development slows down.

Battery requirements. Potatoes have increased nutrient requirements. This is due to a large accumulation of dry matter and an underdeveloped root system. On average, from 1 ton of tubers, potatoes yield, kg: N - 5...6, P2 O5 - 1.5...2.0, K2O -7...10, Ca -4 and Mg - 2. In the first During the life of a potato plant, it requires few nutrients. This is explained by the fact that in the initial period of development, potatoes largely satisfy their nutritional needs from the nutrients of the mother tuber.

Ware potatoes should be protected from greening, as this will give them an unpleasant bitter-tart taste and become poisonous.

Potatoes consume the greatest amount of nutrients during the period of budding - flowering, when there is an intensive increase in the above-ground mass and the formation of tubers. Towards the end of the growing season, the consumption of nutrients decreases and at the beginning of the death of the tops it completely stops.

With a lack of nitrogen in the soil, the above-ground organs of the potato develop poorly, the foliage of the plants decreases, the productivity of the leaf apparatus, the yield and starchiness of the tubers decrease. With excess nitrogen nutrition, excessive growth of tops is observed, the formation of tubers is delayed and the growing season is extended; Plant resistance to various diseases decreases. With normal nitrogen nutrition, the potato plant absorbs potassium and phosphorus better.

A good supply of potatoes with phosphorus helps accelerate plant development, starting from the emergence of seedlings. Other phases of development begin faster, the root system is formed, the period of tuberization begins earlier, the yield and starchiness of tubers increases, their keeping quality increases, and seed qualities improve.

Phosphorus deficiency is more common in acidic soils. Thanks to liming of acidic soils, the content of aluminum and iron in the soil solution decreases, phosphorus becomes more available to plants. When humidity is low, the supply of phosphorus to the plant becomes very difficult. A decrease in soil temperature to 8...10°C and below also has a negative effect on the supply of phosphorus.

Potassium, playing a large role in the processes of photosynthesis, protein and carbohydrate metabolism, significantly affects the yield and quality (especially starchiness) of potatoes, and increases resistance to disease. Potassium plays an exceptional role in the native regime of plants: it increases cell turgor, thereby maintaining internal pressure in plant tissues. With potassium starvation, the growth and development of potatoes and its anatomical and morphological structure are disrupted; Mechanical tissues and the root system develop weaker. Tubers with a lack of potassium acquire a somewhat elongated shape, are small, and are poorly stored in winter. Potassium fertilizer containing a lot of chlorine reduces the starchiness of tubers.

Varieties. Cultivation of potatoes requires constant renewal of seed material, since this crop is affected by viruses, bacterial and fungal diseases, which cause a sharp decrease in yield. According to the Research Institute of Agriculture, the most significant (up to 30%) reduction in yield occurs when tubers below V reproduction are used for planting. The speed and degree of deterioration in productive qualities also depend on the state of seed potato agricultural technology and soil and climatic conditions.

The ecological degeneration of potatoes manifests itself unevenly across geographic zones. In areas with favorable conditions for the crop and low spread of viral diseases, potatoes can remain healthy for a long time and maintain high yields. In accordance with the seed production system, the terms of acceptable use of the potential capabilities of elite tubers are defined and strictly regulated. Farms for growing commercial potatoes must use seed material of at least III...V reproduction, therefore the optimal period for updating planting material should be considered a period of 3...5 years.

Typically, a potato variety remains relatively resistant to late blight and other diseases for 8...10 years after zoning. Then it begins to lose this property, as new races of pathogens appear. The accumulation of pathogen races depends, first of all, on the concentration of plantings of one variety, therefore the cultivation of one or several varieties with the same resistance to the same pathogen race in large areas contributes to the massive development of the disease.

One potato variety should be replaced with another after 5...7 years.

Early and mid-early varieties form marketable tubers 2 months after planting. In mid-season and mid-late varieties, tubers are formed no earlier than the second half of July.

In the Central Non-Black Earth Region, spring and the first half of summer are usually favorable for potatoes, but the second half of summer can be extremely dry. Under these conditions, early-ripening varieties have an advantage, as they manage to form a fairly high yield of tubers. In dry, unfavorable weather in spring and the first half of summer, mid-season and mid-late varieties are in better conditions. Therefore, farms should grow 2...3 varieties of different early maturity.

According to their economic purpose, potato varieties are divided into table varieties, technical (factory) and universal.

Table varieties include varieties of different ripeness that have good nutritional and taste qualities.

Technical varieties are mainly considered to be late-ripening potato varieties with a high starch content of 18...25% or more. They are used for processing into starch, amylose, alcohol, etc.

The universal group includes mainly mid-season and mid-late varieties, characterized by high yield, good taste, non-darkening tuber pulp, high starch and protein content, as well as good shelf life. Such varieties are used for food, technical and feed purposes.

The most common early ripening varieties are: Alena, Almaz, Bimonda, Bryansk early, Dolphin, Zhukovsky early, Karatop, Krasnoyarsky early, Leader, Pushkinets, Rosara, Bullfinch, Udacha, Fresco, Latona

Fried, boiled or baked potatoes are everyone's favorite dishes. Growing a good harvest of vegetables is not as easy as it seems. Preserving it until spring is even more difficult. If there is no special insulated place for laying, a harsh winter will not give the product a chance to survive. In order to reap a rich harvest in the spring and save seed material for later planting, you need to know what temperature the potatoes can withstand.

Tuber response to temperature

Having collected the harvest from their six acres, many summer residents who do not have cellars and basements take it to their apartments. It's good if there is a balcony. You can insulate it and try to fight the frost. It’s worse when it’s not there and it’s supposed to be stored in a warm room. At high temperature potatoes actively “breathe”. Starch is converted into sugar. The sweet substance is then oxidized, producing carbon dioxide and water, which quickly evaporates. The tubers dry out and become like large raisins.

If a vegetable regularly encounters negative temperatures, it is important to know how many degrees of frost it can withstand. Potatoes already at 0 °C begin to actively process starch into sugar; in this case, there is no evaporation process.

As a result, the vegetable becomes sweetish in taste. After direct exposure of the tubers to a more severe subzero temperature, the product completely loses its nutritional and taste properties. He simply rots. When determining the optimal conditions for long-term storage of potatoes, two factors play a role:

positive temperature with a value of 2−3°C;
relative air humidity from 80 to 95%.

If the average room temperature reaches +4°C, sprouts begin to appear on the tubers. It is advisable to remove them quickly, otherwise the harmful substance solanine will accumulate in the potatoes.

Every land owner dreams of getting a rich potato harvest. However, not everyone knows about the rules for planting in spring and caring for this crop, so the result does not always bring a large number of tasty and healthy root vegetables. So, in order to reap a high harvest, you need to choose the right plant variety, cultivate the soil and seedling material, and also choose the optimal time for planting and soil temperature. Let's talk about all these nuances in more detail.

Optimal conditions for planting potatoes

When selecting a time and place for planting potatoes, you need to take into account: soil composition, temperature conditions, characteristics of the selected variety, etc. Note that in different climatic zones, planting times may differ markedly.

Soil temperature

For potatoes, it is recommended to plant early so that the tubers are more resistant to fungal diseases. At the same time, weather conditions, soil type, condition of the planting material itself, etc. are no less important.

Planting can begin when, at a depth of 10-11 cm, the soil temperature is equal to 8-9 0 C. The potato root system begins to develop at a temperature of at least 7 0 C. If it is planted under colder conditions, then seedlings may not appear for a long time.

Humidity

The soil temperature is not as critical for planting potatoes as its humidity. Too wet soil can lead to damage to root crops by rhizoctonia and other diseases caused by bacteria.

If the soil moisture is more than 75%, then planting root crops is strictly not recommended.

Soil composition

Potatoes are a light-loving crop, so the area for planting them should not be darkened. The best option is loose and well-aerated fertile soil.

The best soils for potatoes are peat, soddy-podzolic, forest soil, as well as black soil.

The acidity level should be in the range of 5.-5-7.5 pH. Potatoes do not tolerate alkaline reactions in the soil well. It is also better to postpone planting if the soil is compacted and excessively moist. This condition will negatively affect the development of shoots and the quality of the root crops themselves.

Tuber condition

The selection of tubers for planting occurs in the fall after harvest. To do this, select small potatoes of 25 g each from the most productive bushes. Over the course of two weeks, it is greened up, and only then stored for winter storage. Such measures make it possible to give the seeds resistance to temperature changes.

To get an early harvest, the seed must be more than 70-80 g.

Germination

Germination of tubers usually begins 4-6 weeks before the intended planting. To do this, seed potatoes are removed from the basement and placed in shallow boxes in a sunny and warm place.

Pre-germination can significantly increase the germination of tubers.

You can additionally stimulate kidney growth in the following ways:

Creating a small transverse incision. This procedure is done around the circumference of the tuber to evenly distribute its nutrients.
Making crescent-shaped small cuts near each kidney.
Sprouting potatoes in wet sawdust.
Spraying the seed with water.

The vernalization procedure will allow for good seedlings. It involves simulating planting by covering the boxes and placing them in a cool room.

Soil treatment before planting

To obtain a good potato harvest, soil preparation must be done in the fall before the onset of frost. The preparation procedure can be carried out in two ways:

Gentle processing with deep loosening. The planting area is dug up to a depth of 25-30 cm and completely cleared of weeds. At the same time, fertilizers are applied, which include compost (7 kg) with the addition of potassium sulfate (16 g) and (35 g).
Application of green manure. Instead of digging, a plot of land is planted with green manure plants, which are mowed and covered with soil in the spring.

Spring soil preparation begins when the air temperature has warmed up to 10 0 C. It can also be done in two ways:

Thorough loosening of the soil. The procedure is carried out using a pitchfork, moving the top layer of soil.
Surface digging. The land, which was previously cultivated in the fall, is dug up to a depth of about 10 cm with the complete removal of weeds.

Improving soil quality

To plant potatoes and get a better harvest, you can increase the quality of the soil, or rather, its main indicators:

Acidity level. In too acidic soil with a pH level of 4.5-5.5, it is recommended to add peat ash, calcium carbonate and bone meal. Read more about the use of bone meal as a fertilizer. With a pH of more than 7, additional oxidation of the soil is possible by adding manure or peat.
Fertility degree. Using basic fertilizer makes the soil more attractive to earthworms. In the process of their activity, components useful for plants are produced.
Soil air exchange. To improve aeration and drainage, perlite, compost and polymer crystals that retain water are added to the soil.

Fertilizers and care

Fertilizers depend on the condition and type of soil:

For clay soil, organic fertilizers are suitable, which include compost, humus, peat and other components.
For sandy soil, a mixture of peat and humus is used. It is also possible to apply mineral and organic fertilizers.

For swamp-peat soil, ordinary sawdust is well suited.

Peat-bog soil can be enriched with compost, manure and sawdust. Clay flour and sand are used to improve its structure.
Organic and mineral fertilizers are suitable for loamy and medium soil.
sandy loam soil requires regular application of peat or compost.

Growing technology

Early potato varieties can be planted as early as the end of April, when warm temperature conditions have established. Most often, planting is done in the first half of May. At this time, the soil usually warms up to 7 0 C to a depth of 10-12 cm. If the area is waterlogged, a ridge 12-15 cm high is created during planting. In the case of soft soil, its size can be about 10 cm.

Ridges are not used if potatoes are planted in southern latitudes with sandy soil.

Since early potatoes have smaller and straighter stems than other varieties, they can be planted at a distance of 25 cm from each other, while for the rest this value is 30-35 cm. To simplify the process of planting root crops, you can use a walk-behind tractor. For more details about the technology of planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor, see.

Uniform growth of seedlings can be achieved if planting material is planted at the same depth. Depending on the type of soil and weather conditions, potatoes are planted in beds, ridges or evenly planted.

For loamy soils, planting is done in ridges to a depth of 7-10 cm. In this case, the tubers are well ventilated and warm is obtained. When planted deeply, germination time slows down, which negatively affects the condition of the shoots.

It is recommended to plant tubers in ridges on heavy loamy and peaty soils. This allows you to minimize flooding of the site and infection of seedlings with rhizoctonia. In arid climates, planting is done to a depth of no more than 10 cm, which reduces evaporation from the soil.

An important condition for growing potatoes is their planting density. For food, the optimal amount is 40-50 thousand bushes per 1 hectare, and for obtaining seed material the value increases to 60 thousand per 1 hectare.

Diseases and pests

wireworm Beetle larvae live deep in the soil and attack root crops. It is impossible to determine their presence at the early stage of damage, but later the bushes are delayed in development and slowly wither. Read more about methods for removing wireworms from potato plots

The risk of root crops being damaged by wireworms can be reduced if legumes are planted between potato rows.
When nematodes are detected, a quarantine is usually imposed on a plot of land, which involves planting only crops that are resistant to these larvae

Colorado beetle. The most common and dangerous pest that eats potato tubers and stems. Its large appetite leads to the death of entire fields, forcing it to travel long distances in search of new food. Get rid of pests with chemicals and regular collection of beetles and their larvae. It is also recommended to treat tubers and soil with insecticides before planting. Read more about the technology of processing potatoes against the Colorado potato beetle

bear A fairly large omnivorous insect, similar in appearance to a cricket. Its habitat is the soil where the pest gnaws through root crops and potato roots. The pest can be controlled by organizing baits, as well as careful digging in the fall and spring;

viral diseases. They are characterized by curling leaves, the presence of mottling and mosaics. Sick plants cannot be treated and must be destroyed to prevent the spread of infection;

bacterial diseases. Bacterial rot, blackleg and other diseases cannot be treated. To prevent and prevent infection, diseased bushes are removed from the site, garden tools are processed, as well as places for storing crops;

late blight The most common and dangerous disease that leads to rotting of root crops. As a preventive measure, bushes are treated with antifungal drugs.

If measures to prevent and combat potato rot are not taken, more than half of the entire crop may die.

Review of the best varieties

To date, a fairly large number of varieties have been bred, differing in yield, length of the growing season, taste and other characteristics. The best varieties that have gained great popularity include:

. This is an early type of potato that has yellow oval tubers with dark yellow flesh. Its growing season lasts 80-85 days. The weight of one root crop reaches 100-130 g. Potatoes are popular due to their good presentation, resistance to transportation and long-term storage, as well as high taste. It is resistant to scab, late blight and potato cancer. With proper planting and care, you can achieve up to 4 tons per hectare;

"Impala". An early variety with high yield. It has tall bushes (60-70 cm), yellow oval roots with light yellow flesh. Impala is characterized by resistance to many dangerous diseases: late blight, scab, cancer, nematode, etc. Potatoes ripen 75 days after planting. Productivity is 3.5 tons per 1 ha;

"Tuleevsky". A mid-season variety originally from Siberia, characterized by large tubers and excellent taste. Large yellow tubers also have yellow flesh. The plant prefers high humidity and does not tolerate dry climates. The ripening period is 100-110 days. From 1 hectare of planted area you can get up to 5 tons of crop;

This is the best variety for making mashed potatoes, since potatoes are distinguished by their friability during heat treatment.

"Luck". Early potatoes, which can be harvested in 60-70 days. It has low but dense bushes and spreading flowers. Root vegetables are oval in shape and large in size. The thin skin is light brown in color and has white flesh inside. One tuber reaches up to 100-110 g, one bush contains 10-15 units. The variety is resistant to viral diseases, cancer, rot and other dangerous diseases.

Video

For a clear example of planting potatoes, see

Conclusion

Potatoes are among the most common vegetable crops. With proper preparation, it can be grown in any type of soil. It is important to choose the right plant variety and provide it with appropriate growing conditions. They include temperature control, fertilization, watering and protection from diseases and pests. As an alternative to classic planting, you can consider growing. This technique allows you to create an optimal microclimate and prevent the appearance of pests.

It’s not for nothing that potatoes are called the second bread - they are loved for their high and stable yield and ease of cultivation. Potatoes are healthy, adults and children eat them with pleasure, and there are so many recipes for dishes made from them - you can choose the right option for all occasions! What conditions need to be created for potatoes in order to collect large, even, beautiful, nutritious tubers in huge buckets in the fall?

Potatoes: temperature for growth

The best accumulation of potato yield occurs at moderate temperatures in the range of 14–21°C. The processes of accumulation of organic substances are inhibited at temperatures below 7°C, although they can continue very slowly until frost.

The optimal temperature at which tubers germinate and sprout faster is 12–15°C. The optimal temperature for root growth and development is 13–14°C.

Potato is a light-loving plant. When shaded, its tops become very elongated, and the leaves poorly absorb carbon dioxide. Therefore, the density of plants per unit area is crucial in the struggle for yield. On average, it is recommended to grow 400–700 plants per 1 acre (100 sq.m.).

Potatoes grow better if the rows are placed in a north-south direction.

Soil moisture for potatoes

To grow tops you need a certain amount of soil and air. The best soil moisture is 60–80%. Water consumption of potatoes during the growing season increases as the tops and tubers grow (up to 40–50 l/sq.m per day) and decreases towards the end of the growing season. Young plants consume less water and tolerate soil drought relatively easily. The period of maximum water requirement for potatoes coincides with the period of “flowering - tuberization”. During the growing season, with a yield of 2.5–3 kg/sq.m, potatoes use 30–35 l/sq.m of water.

Excess moisture has a particularly strong effect on young plants, although it is also detrimental in subsequent periods of growth. Prolonged waterlogging and flooding are especially dangerous.

Soil for potatoes

Potatoes are a crop that requires mineral nutrition and soil aeration. To form 10 kg of potatoes from an area of 5 square meters, on average, plants consume 50 g of nitrogen, 20 g of phosphorus and 90 g of potassium.

Potatoes are usually planted on soil varieties that are light in mechanical composition and well drained.

Potato fertilizer

The best organic fertilizer for potatoes is manure; if there is a deficiency, compost consisting of manure (25%) and peat (75%) laid 5 months before application. It is advisable to apply in the fall.

If there is a lack of manure and compost, you can use composts from plant residues, weeds, household waste, and sludge from ponds and lakes.
A significant additional source of organic fertilizers, as well as a soil health worker, are green manure crops. Wood ash is a valuable local fertilizer, mainly containing potassium.

Mineral fertilizers are a very effective means of increasing productivity. The best are ammonium nitrate (2 kg per 100 m2), double superphosphate (5–10 kg per 100 m2), potassium sulfate (2–4 kg per 100 m2).

Foliar feeding also gives good results - spraying a month before harvesting with a fertilizer solution (40 g ammonium nitrate, 200 g double superphosphate, 10 g potassium salt, 2 g copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). The yield increases by 15–20%, and the presence of copper has a good effect against late blight.