Do-it-yourself circular: drawings, video, description. How to make a circular machine with your own hands Shaft for a circular saw drawing

Content:

Circular type machines belong to the class of specialized processing mechanisms, without which no well-equipped home workshop can do.

This sample of woodworking equipment is especially relevant in the conditions of a country house and a summer cottage.

When evaluating the possibilities of purchasing ready-made equipment, you will encounter a number of problems related to the inconvenience of handling cheap stand-alone circular saws and the too high cost of professional processing equipment.

The only correct approach to solving this problem is to make a circular machine with your own hands, using materials and equipment that are commercially available.

Note! In order to save money in small-sized models of machine tools, an autonomous circular saw is most often used as a cutting tool, which is rigidly mounted on the bed.

With the help of a home-made machine, you can saw boards, plan a slab, and also make bars of the section you need.

If desired, it will be possible to significantly expand the functionality of your product by providing it with the possibility of processing wood using an electric planer.

Design requirements

Before starting work, it will be necessary to prepare a small sketch, which should indicate not only the location of all the structural elements of the future machine, but also their main dimensions. When drawing such a sketch, it should be taken into account that your circular machine may consist of the following functional units:

bed, which serves as the basis of the entire product;
countertops with an industrial model of a hand-held circular saw installed on it;
remote control panel for turning on and off the actuator (circular saw).

Small Tabletop Circular Machine

The specified composition of the machine is typical for small-sized products on a wooden frame. For capital equipment manufactured on the basis of metal profiles (corners), its scheme has a slightly different look. The composition of such a product should include the following elements:

a base made of steel frames and brackets on which a shaft with a drive pulley is mounted in bearing pairs;
a tabletop with slots for the processing blade, mounted on top of a metal frame and rigidly fixed to it;
a set of special drive electrical equipment located in the lower part of the frame and providing the required functionality of the device (it includes an electric motor, a starting device and a transformer-converter).

The main requirement for any type of bed is to ensure maximum reliability and stability of the structure. As options for the execution of the machine base, we will consider both frames made of metal profiles (corners) and load-bearing structures made of wood.

When familiarizing yourself with the requirements for the electrical equipment of a home-made machine, first of all, you should decide on the drive power of the cutting tool (or autonomous saw), which for domestic conditions should not exceed 850 watts.

Stationary circular machine

In addition, before preparing a sketch of a future product, such technical characteristics of the equipment used as:

Depth of cut, which sets the allowable thickness of the wood pieces to be processed on your machine. This indicator for industrial samples of woodworking equipment ranges from 5 to 8 cm, which is quite enough for cutting standard boards and thick plywood.

Additional information: In the event that you need to process wood blanks of greater thickness, it is necessary to provide a special lifting mechanism in the bed that allows you to change the position of the disk in height.

Before manufacturing a capital machine with a separate drive, the operating frequency of the rotor of the electric motor should be taken into account. The choice of this parameter is determined by the lumber processing modes that you most often have to deal with. For simple cutting of wood, this figure can be relatively low, but for a perfectly even (“clean”) cut, you need a higher speed.

Important! Optimal for homemade cutting machines is considered to be a speed that does not exceed the value 4500 rpm. At low engine speeds, the bed can be made on the basis of a reinforced wooden frame, massive enough to prevent mechanism vibrations.

When drawing up a sketch, ergonomic requirements should also be taken into account, assuming the convenience of controlling the operation of the equipment, as well as the safety of handling it. They relate to the order of the buttons on the operating panel, the restriction of access to the cutting blade, as well as the electrical safety of the drive or individual controls.

After all possible requirements for the future machine are taken into account, you can proceed to its direct assembly.

Frame based on metal profiles (corners)

The upper part of the metal frame is most conveniently made in the form of a rectangular frame 600 by 400 mm, welded from 25 mm corners. Pipe blanks 220 mm long are welded to the four corners of this design (recommended pipe diameter is 17-20 mm).

The bed must ensure the rigidity of the machine

On the frame with the help of bolts, two longitudinal corners are used to fasten the shaft in the bearing cage.

The distance between the corners is determined based on the length of the shaft, and the bearings used for installation are fixed on them with special clamps.

The lower part of the frame of the bed, in order to give it greater stability, is made (welded) from 40 mm metal corners.

Closed type bearing is used to fasten the working shaft

Two jumpers made of the same material are welded across the frame, used to fix the electric motor. There is also a metal platform intended for mounting the launch equipment.

Bearings are attached to the frame with special clamps.

At the corners of the resulting structure, pipe blanks are welded with a length corresponding to the size of the pipes on the upper frame, but with a slightly larger diameter (23-25mm).

Closer to their edge, special clamps (lambs) are used to clamp the lifting pipes of the upper frame, which move when the drive belt is tensioned.

The procedure for assembling the mechanical part of such a machine includes the following operations:

first, bearings No. 202 are taken and driven onto the working shaft with force;
after that, a pulley is fixed on the same shaft with an interference fit, previously machined on a lathe and having an inner diameter of the stream of 50 mm;
then, at the end of the shaft, a thread is cut for the bolt used to clamp the cutting tool (for more reliable fixation, paronite and metal washers can be placed under the bolt);
upon completion of this part of the work, we proceed to the installation of a drive manufactured on the basis of a three-phase asynchronous motor with a power of 1.5 kW (1500 rpm). A pulley is mounted on the shaft of such an engine, having an internal size of the stream of approximately 80 mm;
at the next stage of assembling the frame, two finished halves of the frame are connected together (in this case, pipes of smaller diameter are inserted into larger ones);
at the end of the work, a belt is pulled on the shaft, and then the structure is fixed in this position by means of special “lamb” clamps.

Machine on a wooden frame

The easiest and most affordable way to make a machine bed involves the use of ordinary boards or thick plywood for this purpose. In this version of the design, the actuating unit is placed directly under the table (table top), in which a slot of the appropriate dimensions is made for the cutting blade.

Wooden frame is reliable and easy to manufacture

As an example, we will consider the option of manufacturing a bed with a height of approximately 110 - 120 cm, designed to fix a hand-held circular saw on it. The length of the countertop of this design can be changed within small limits at your discretion.

Note! The height of the structure, if desired, can be adjusted, taking into account the height of the person working on the machine. And if it is necessary to process very long boards on it, the dimensions of the countertop can be increased to the required size. In this case, you will have to worry about mounting additional support legs.

The most convenient material for making countertops is multilayer plywood with a thickness of at least 50 mm. However, other materials can be chosen for these purposes (plexiglass or fiberglass boards, for example). As for such a common material as chipboard, its use in this case is undesirable, as it does not provide sufficient surface strength.

To make a machine on a wooden base, you will need the following materials:

preparation of sheet iron;
standard sheet of thick plywood;
a pair of bars with a section of 50x50 mm;
thick boards with a standard size of 50 x 100 mm;
steel corner, necessary to increase the rigidity of the fastening of the guides;
a circular saw;
two clamps.

In addition, you will have to stock up on the following set of tools, without which the assembly of the machine is simply impossible:

classic screwdriver and electric drill;
a simple hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw;
measuring instruments (square, tape measure, ruler);
portable cutter for wood processing.

In the absence of such a cutter, it will be possible to use the help of friends or neighbors who have a milling machine in their household.

Additional Information: Some home crafters prefer to make countertops from end-of-life kitchen tables. However, this design will not be durable, since the source material has been used for a long time in a humid room. That is why it would be wiser to make all structural elements from new blanks, which at the same time will allow you to take into account your personal tastes and preferences.

Countertop manufacturing

Work on the manufacture of this part of the equipment is carried out in the following sequence:
We start by marking a piece of plywood, carried out in such a way that its edges are flush with the edges of the prepared iron sheet. After marking, using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, you can cut the plywood blank to the required size. If desired, it will be possible to process its edges with a cutter, although this is not at all necessary (the main requirement for this element is its reliability, not attractiveness).

Upon completion of these operations, the surface of the countertop is carefully processed (rubbed) with an emery cloth of medium grit.

Then, on its lower part, the position of the slot for the saw blade is preliminarily marked. To do this, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the sole prepared for the installation of a circular saw. For the convenience of carrying out measurements, the disk is simply removed from the saw, after which it will be possible to easily determine the dimensions of the seat.

For the convenience of marking the tabletop, the saw blade is removed

Upon completion of its preparation, you should take a circular saw and try it on at the installation site. If necessary, the position of its attachment points is corrected (at the same time, the contours of the slot for the saw blade are specified).

The finished plywood table top is covered with a steel sheet, fastened to it with self-tapping screws. Subsequently, special markings can be applied to the working surface, allowing you to adjust the position of the wood blank during its processing.

Frame assembly

Both transverse and longitudinal bars of the frame, used as stiffeners, are also mounted on the lower plane of the tabletop. In total, four such strips are required:

Two transverse jumpers that do not reach the edge of the tabletop by 7-9 cm on each side.
Two longitudinal bars, the size of which corresponds to the same condition (they should not reach the edges of the countertop by about 7-9 cm).

Taking into account these restrictions, it is necessary to outline the points of fixation of the longitudinal bars and crossbars, in which the latter will be attached to the countertop using self-tapping screws of a suitable size.

When marking points, the outermost of them is selected approximately at a distance of 40-50 mm from the edge of the bar (in this case, the step between them should be about 23-25 cm).

Before the final assembly of the frame, through holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in all component parts (bars and countertop). On the front side, the fastening elements are installed in such a way that their caps are completely hidden in the material.

To increase the strength of the future frame base, the bars adjacent to the countertop are pre-coated with wood glue.

After assembly, the structure is temporarily fixed with clamps, which can be removed after the glue has dried.

Support leg attachment

The legs of the table are made from bars of a suitable section (most often, the same 50x50 mm blanks are used for these purposes). The height of the supports is selected for a specific person, i.e. individually.

This should take into account the fact that it is more convenient to work on a circular machine when the tabletop is at hip level. The shape of the legs before their final installation is finalized, taking into account that they taper towards the supporting part (the area of interface with the frame base must exceed the area of support on the floor).

To increase the rigidity and stability of the structure, steel corners can be used in it, which are pressed in such a way as to provide an additional “strut” of the base. To fix them, special bolts with washers are used, installed with caps outward.

Wiring diagram

In the capital version of the design of the circular machine, an autonomous drive is used, which includes an asynchronous type electric motor, the windings of which are connected to the electrical network according to the triangle scheme.

Connection diagram of an asynchronous motor of a circular machine

To control the operation and ensure automatic start of the electric motor, the circuit provides for a magnetic starter built on the basis of an electronic switch (triac) and a current transformer.

To build a machine control scheme on a wooden frame (an option involving the use of a hand-held circular saw), it will be enough to duplicate the buttons for turning the mechanism on and off, bringing them out and fixing them on one of the legs of the tabletop

You will learn more about connecting the electric motor of the machine from the video.

Surely most men are familiar with a hand-held circular saw. The thing is useful, no one argues. However, it is not suitable for processing a large amount of wood. Only a circular machine can replace it. Having such a device on the farm, you can easily cut the required amount of material, give it any shape, cut blanks at any angle.

Handmade (ordinary hand saw).
Stationary,

which are divided into:

household (maximum cut depth 4-5 cm),
desktop (5-5.5 cm),
on the frame (6-14 cm).

They are used in private households, as well as in small and medium-sized woodworking businesses. The device of such machines may differ in the materials from which they are made and in power.

Usually, the bed is made of metal and happens cast or welded, that is, collapsible. The cast frame is placed on a concrete pad reinforced with reinforcement and, accordingly, it is difficult to move it anywhere. Collapsible, on the contrary, differs, as you understand, in mobility and low weight compared to cast.

A work surface is installed on the frame - a tabletop, which is made of sheet aluminum, steel or cast iron. It must be equipped with guide rulers and a slot for saw blades.

For all this to work, a saw shaft is needed, on which a saw blade and an electric motor are mounted. In addition, a wood feed mechanism is installed on large machines. And also the circular machine can be equipped with a riving knife, which prevents the sawn halves from closing and protective cover, which does not allow sawdust to fly in different directions.

We briefly described the device of the factory circular machine. The cost of such devices is quite high. Therefore, sometimes the question arises as to whether it is possible to assemble the machine for your needs with your own hands? Of course you can.

DIY circular machine: options

Before proceeding to the manufacture of a home-made machine, it is necessary to decide on what amount of work it will be designed for? If you are building something and will constantly use it, then the machine should be more dimensional, stable with large worktop. Well, if a circular is required periodically or for processing small-sized parts, then there is no need to make the machine large.

The simplest option is a machine from a hand saw drilled to the countertop. Make a cut with the same saw and get a hole for the disc. You cut out a bar of the required length, attach it, and the ruler is ready. Fasten the tabletop to the base so that the saw body is at the bottom, and there is a ruler and disk on top. And that's it, you can get to work.

The do-it-yourself version of the machine is more complicated - this is its assembly from scratch. That is, you make a base, a work surface, equip it with a motor, a saw blade, make a ruler. This option is suitable for those who already have at least some related skills. If you decide to make a metal frame, you need skills using a welding machine. If from wood, then the skills of a carpenter. And besides that, you need to understand the electrics.

Let's try to figure out how to make a circular machine with your own hands from scratch on a metal base.

We make a circular machine with our own hands from scratch

We suggest you build the base of the machine from metal pipes and corners. For convenience, it will consist of an upper and lower part. Let's start with the top part. You will need two corners of 60 centimeters and two of 40, we take corners of 25 mm. Weld them together to make a rectangle. Next, weld hollow metal tubes into the corners diameter 1.7 cm and length 22 cm.

Next, we take two more corners of 60 cm each and, approximately in the middle of the frame, we fix them on the bolts parallel to each other. The distance between them is determined based on the length of the shaft for the saw blade. We select the shaft - this is a metal part on which the saw blade will be mounted and which must rotate. The shaft must be inserted into the pre-prepared holes in the corners.

We drive the 202nd bearings onto the shaft and fasten them with clamps. Then you need to fasten a metal pulley with an inner diameter of 5 cm to the shaft. Now we put on a circular disk and tighten it with metal and paranitic washers with a diameter of 6 cm. Such fastening of a disk will not allow it to be displaced during the work. In principle, the upper part of the machine is ready.

Let's move on to the lower more difficult part. We will cook it from 40 mm corners of the same dimensions so that the machine is heavy and stable enough. Also, metal tubes with a diameter of 25 millimeters are welded into the corners of the rectangle. Toward the end, a hole is drilled on each leg and metal “lambs” are inserted. They hold the top and bottom together firmly. We fasten two more corners of 40 cm across the frame for installing the engine. The motor was chosen asynchronous three-phase with a power of 1.5 kW and 1500 rpm.

We will weld a metal plate next to the motor to install starting equipment. The start of the engine is carried out by the start capacitors, which continue to function during the operation of the machine. The windings of the capacitors are made in a triangle. In order for the engine to "pull" it is better to install a transformer with parameters 220/36 for 400 W. In order for the engine to start automatically, we hook up a magnetic starter along with a seven-stroke and a current transformer. The latter was made from the core of a subscriber loudspeaker. You can place the transformer and capacitors arbitrarily, since this does not affect the operation of the circuit.

So, the bottom part is finished. We insert the parts of the machine into each other and fix them with “lambs”. We just have to make a tabletop. Since we have a metal base, let's put a metal sheet 1 millimeter thick on the countertop. Let's try on the base and mark the place where there should be a slot for the saw blade. We cut it with a grinder and fasten the sheet to the base with bolts. And now our circular machine, made by hand, is ready to work.

A simple version of the circular machine do it yourself

If it is not possible for you to make the above described machine, do it easier. Buy a hand-held circular saw and set it up on a sturdy wooden base. In this case, special attention will be paid to the assembly wooden frame. When choosing a hand-held circular saw, buy one with an adjustable table top and safety guard.

First, decide on the size of the bed. Remember that it should be at a comfortable height for you, otherwise you will not be able to work on the machine for a long time due to back pain. And the rest of the dimensions depend on the size of the material that you will process on your homemade machine. Whatever the size, your table should be very stable and have a flat, dent-free work surface. The larger the estimated amount of work, the more powerful, the harder the frame is made.

From a piece of chipboard sawing the countertop required size. We apply it to the finished base and mark the place where the base of the saw will be attached on both sides of the chipboard. Next, remove the disc from the saw and draw the exact location of the slot for the disc also on two sides of the table top. To attach the saw to the tabletop, you need to drill holes in its base, and then fasten it to the chipboard with not too long self-tapping screws with a thick hat.

The saw is fixed on the tabletop and we move on to the slot for the disc. Everything is simple here. Secure the tabletop so that it does not dangle or move. We turn on our saw and saw through the chipboard with it, leaving it in the lower position. Actually, that's almost all. Check how level the saw blade is on the back of the chipboard. The angle between the table top and the disc should be 90 degrees.

Now we lay our countertop on the finished base so that there is a saw blade on top, respectively, its body will be on the bottom. It remains to build a guide line. Take a thick block or saw it out and fix it on the work surface. The distance between the guide and saw blade will be about 5.2 cm. Fasten the finished tabletop to the base. In order not to lean under the table to the saw control button every time, fix it in one position with a clothespin. This will allow you to turn the saw on and off using the power outlet.

That's all, you can get to work, our machine is ready. As you can see, this option is really simple and accessible to everyone. And besides, the cost of its manufacture is much less than the cost of the factory machine.

Work safety

When working on your machine, remember the simple safety rules to avoid accidents.

Do not work with material longer than two meters alone. On the other side, someone has to accept it. Wherein you can not pull the workpiece on yourself.

To avoid disc breakage or jamming in the workpiece, feed the material smoothly without jerking.

When working with workpieces of small dimensions (for example, length 40 cm, width 4.5 cm), it is recommended to use a pusher to feed the material.

Slowly cut workpieces that have knots and other inhomogeneities in their structure.

Use a specially designed brush to clean the machine, not your hands.

Avoid a large accumulation of waste and sawdust on the desktop, clean hard-to-reach places.

The machine must not be operated if:

the machine does not have a ruler;
the saw blade does not have a protective cover;
a slot for a disk wider than 1 cm;

The disc is replaced with the machine turned off. Discs must be well sharpened. For personal protection, you need to have a respirator and goggles.

A stationary circular saw is the machine that should be in the workshop of every craftsman working with wood. With its help, you can quickly and effortlessly cut a board, cut a workpiece of the required size, and cut firewood.

The home master is simply obliged to acquire such a machine. It is not necessary to buy it, a home-made circular is guaranteed to cope with the amount of work of a home workshop, while costing a much smaller amount.

Circular saw device

Being a really useful tool, the circular has a fairly simple design. Its main nodes:

bed - a frame on which the main units are mounted;
tabletop with a slot for a disk;
motor with rotation transmission system;
cutting tool, disc with teeth.

Optionally, the device can be supplemented with a pusher, which ensures the forward movement of the workpiece to the disk, and various lifting mechanisms that regulate the cutting depth.

The principle of operation of a circular saw (circular saw) is that the rotation of the motor shaft is transmitted to a cutting tool, a disk with sharply sharpened teeth. The center of the disk is located below the level of the tabletop, only its segment is removed from it. The workpiece is brought to the rotating disk, the teeth bite into the wood, creating an even cut.

A simple circular grinder or circular saw

An angle grinder (grinder) is one of the most popular tools for a home craftsman, with its help it is easy to cut metal and clean welds. In addition, using a wood disc instead of a standard abrasive disc, the grinder can be turned into a hand-held circular saw (it is also called a parquet), and by making a frame with a table - into a stationary circular saw.

Required accessories

For work you will need:

multilayer plywood with a thickness of 10 mm or more;
switch and wire;
bolts with a cap under sweat;
screws;
wooden block 40x40 mm.

You also need to prepare a drill or screwdriver, a hammer, a screwdriver, pliers, a ruler and a pencil. With the help of these tools, you have to make a circular with your own hands.

Of course, we must not forget the grinder itself or a hand-held circular saw. At the first stage, it will help to cut the material, and then it will take its place as a working body of the circular.

Sequencing

The first step is to make the body of the circular. Thick plywood is perfect for this, you can use any pressed wood boards. You will need to cut out four rectangular sheets, size 40 x 80 cm. A box with a square 80 x 80 cm at the base is assembled from them. Four bars are installed in the corners for ease of assembly and reliability of the structure.

From above, the resulting box is closed with a countertop. It can be made from the same plywood, but it is better to use some kind of laminated sheet material. This guarantees the durability of the machine, ensures the convenience of operating a home-made circular.

A cut is made in the tabletop to exit the disc, holes are drilled on the sides of it for attaching the tool.

The grinder must be securely fixed under the countertop. The design of the latch can be very diverse, it all depends on the configuration of the machine itself. The main requirement for fastening is that it must securely hold the angle grinder, preventing it from moving.

The simplest fastening may look like this: two metal squares, between them a grinder is fixed with a steel clamp.

In the upper shelves of the squares holding the grinder, two holes are drilled. The structure is fastened to the table top with countersunk bolts. It remains only to block the power button, connect the grinder through an external switch.

In the same way, you can make a circular saw from a circular saw with your own hands. In this case, the work is noticeably simplified due to the fact that you do not need to invent a mount. It is enough to make a cutout for the disk, drill holes through the holes in the hand saw plate.

Miniature machine from the engine from the washing machine

The circular is distinguished by its extreme simplicity and availability of materials for its manufacture. Perhaps its only expensive part is the electric motor. Stationary machines are equipped with a powerful asynchronous motor that provides cutting of thick wood of any species, but in a home workshop you can limit yourself to less power.

Note! For sawing boards of medium thickness, it is enough to make a circular table driven by a washing machine engine with your own hands.

This design has a number of advantages. The engine from an old washing machine is inexpensive, moreover, such a unit is likely to be found in the household of a home craftsman. Connecting this engine is not particularly difficult, there is no need to look for circuits, soldering. With all this, the power of such a unit is quite enough for most types of work.

The scheme of the machine can be simplified as much as possible by eliminating the belt drive. In this embodiment, the cutting tool will be mounted directly on the motor shaft. The bed of the desktop mini-machine will be a frame assembled from a bar with a section of 40 x 40 mm. If desired, it can be welded from a corner or a profile pipe.

As a stand (tabletop) for a circular, a part of the body of an old TV, coated chipboard, is ideal. As practice shows, this part is sufficiently durable, and thanks to the lacquer coating, it does not prevent the workpiece from sliding.

In the tabletop with an electric jigsaw, two parallel cuts are made perpendicular to the cutout for the disk. A movable square will slide along them, playing the role of a side stop. It will help to make an even cut, if necessary, at a given angle.

Stationary machine

Those who plan to seriously engage in woodworking should think about making a full-fledged stationary circular saw. It should be a separate unit mounted on a workbench, equipped with a powerful engine, with the ability to quickly change the disc. It will take time to make such a circular with your own hands, but it will definitely pay for itself.

Despite the apparent simplicity of this device, it is worth creating a drawing of the machine before starting work. This will allow you to visually see the future unit, choose its optimal configuration.

bed

The basis of any machine is a bed, a frame on which all the main parts are mounted. The frame of the circular must be stable and reliable, so it is made of metal. It is preferable to use a profile pipe or a thick-walled square. Welding is used to connect parts. If a collapsible design is conceived, a bolted connection is suitable.

It will not be difficult to buy suitable material; in any specialized metal-roll store, you can pick up both pipes and a square. Those who want to save money can be recommended to contact scrap metal buyers. You can buy the same thing from them, only cheaper.

tabletop

The best material for making a professional circular countertop is metal. Steel and aluminum-based alloys are excellent. For a budget option, you can limit yourself to thick plywood upholstered with sheet iron. In any case, the surface of the tabletop must be smooth, resistant to friction and not sag under a weight of up to 50 kg.

In the tabletop, a groove is made for the disk. It can be done in two ways. You can make a cut in a single sheet, or you can assemble a countertop from two halves. The second method is preferable for a metal countertop, which is difficult to cut at home.

If desired, you can make a sawing machine for working outside the workshop, for this it is enough to provide for the possibility of installing a low-power gasoline engine, it can be removable.

Rotation transmission

The optimal circular drive is a V-belt drive. Two pulleys are used, one on the motor and one on the drive shaft. It's convenient and safe. There is no direct connection between the motor rotor and the disc, in the event of a jammed tool, the belt will begin to slip, signaling the need to turn off the power. In addition, using pulleys with several streams of different diameters, you can adjust the speed of the saw, choosing the optimal mode for different woods.

Rotation from the motor rotor is transmitted to the shaft. This is one of the most critical parts of the circular. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make a shaft on your own, it is better to buy a ready-made one or order it from a turner.

The shaft is mounted on bearings. They must be of a closed type: a circular saw is a sawing place and open ones will not last long.

Pendulum suspended machine

Those who can boast of the ability to work with metal can be advised to make a circular with a pendulum engine mount. The main feature of the device is that the engine, shaft and cutting disc are installed in one common frame. On the one hand, it is hinged on the frame, the second is held by a screw with the ability to adjust the height. By changing the length of the screw, you can adjust the height of the disk exit from the tabletop.

This system allows you to adjust the height of the cut, as well as use discs of different diameters. If, instead of an adjusting screw, you use a probe brought out to the tabletop, you can get a simple copying machine. The probe will allow you to adjust the depth of the cut according to a certain pattern. This fairly simple refinement will turn a simple circular saw into a real woodworking machine. With such a device, you can not only cut the board into the necessary blanks, but also make accurate cuts and make various selections.

Such a useful thing as a working engine from an automatic washing machine should not lie idle in your garage.

Any self-respecting homemade hand will itch at the sight of such a promising detail.

In this article, we will tell you how to make a very good light and compact circular on the basis of such an engine, on which you can easily dissolve a fiftieth board or even a 10x10 bar.

Attention! Assembling a circular saw with your own hands and its further use can be dangerous! Therefore, do not take on this case if you are not confident in your skills and do not follow the safety rules! This article is not a call to action. And remember, all responsibility for what you do lies only with you!

How to connect the motor?

Connecting the engine is the most important stage of work, if you can’t connect the engine from the washing machine correctly, then you won’t be able to make a circular with your own hands. The whole difficulty is not even in the connection, but in achieving a stable adjustment of the motor speed, without this the circular will not work normally - the disk will tear the lumber.

The manufacturer installs the so-called tachometer or speed control sensor on the engine from the washing machine. But the problem is that the operation of this sensor is controlled by the electronic module of the washing machine, you cannot put such a module on a circular, so you have to think about a device that will control the engine speed. More details as described in the article of the same name.

moving parts

Having successfully connected the engine from an automatic washing machine with your own hands, and having checked how it picks up and slows down, you can start making our circular. The diagram below shows a simplified drawing of a homemade circular saw made using a washing machine engine.

The scheme can be further simplified by turning away from the bearing assembly. For household circulars, this is quite acceptable.

For now, we will only be interested in the moving elements of the circular, which will bear the main load, namely:

circular saw shaft;
washing machine motor shaft;
drive belt;
automatic washing machine motor pulley;
saw shaft pulley.

The drive mechanism should work as follows. The engine from the washing machine drives a shaft with a small pulley pressed on it. A drive belt is dressed on a small pulley, which transmits revolutions to a large pulley, dressed on a shaft that drives a circular saw. It seems at first glance everything is simple, but when you make a circular, a lot of subtle difficulties emerge that have to be resolved.

The small pulley must be machined with your own hands, making 3-4 transverse grooves on it, so that the belt clings to them and does not slip.
The drive belt does not have to be taken from an automatic washing machine; you can take a similar part from any other equipment, as long as the belt is strong and serrated.
On a large pulley, you will have to weld a disk of a slightly larger diameter with your own hands on the edge so that a kind of protrusion is formed that will prevent the drive belt from slipping off during operation. On a large pulley, it is not necessary to grind the serrations, the grip with the belt will be normal without it.
The shaft on which the circular saw will be held, as well as the nut and washer must be reliable so that, firstly, at high speeds, the circular saw does not deform, and secondly, so that the circular saw does not jump out and harm the person working with the circular saw . It is better to take a finished shaft, washers and a nut from a regular factory circular.

The described mechanism is designed for the 300th disc. There are many skeptics who say that the engine from the washing machine will not pull such a disk, and that it will stop at some point during operation, and the saw will get stuck in the board. To such skeptics, our experts answer the following.

Firstly, you must be able to work with a circular saw and not push anything onto a rotating saw.
Secondly, this circular will be purely household, it is designed for short-term work with a small amount of lumber. If you want to make a circular for business, then purchase special components; such equipment is not made from improvised parts.
Thirdly, practice shows that quite a few craftsmen use such home-made equipment and are very satisfied. At least the feedback from them is mostly positive.

In the future, do not overload your homemade circular with work, and most importantly, do not let the engine run for a long time without load.

Bed and frame

Having collected the parts for the moving parts of the circular, we just have to make a reliable frame and bed for our circular. In principle, for the frame of a household circular, you can take the most common material at hand, for example, a piece of thick flat slate. Cutting a rectangle out of it and cutting a hole for a circular saw costs nothing. But we are supporters of capital structures, so we prefer to take a sheet of metal 3 mm thick for the frame of the circular, and a metal corner for the frame 30 mm.

The figure above clearly shows what elements the frame of a homemade circular consists of. In this case, it is also welded by hand, only as supports, not a static metal corner is used, but special home-made racks. The rack is made of two metal pipes of different diameters, which are inserted into each other, so the frame of the circular can be adjusted in height.

Experts insist on a welded frame design for circulars, since vibration is bad for static fastenings created with bolts. Although if you do not have welding, in extreme cases, you can make a frame from the corners by fastening them together with bolts and nuts. It is also better to weld the bed to the frame.

So, it’s quite possible to make a circular from a washing machine engine with your own hands if you have experience in making various homemade homemade products. Try it yourself and maybe you will gain some experience, which you will later share with our readers. Good luck!

It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is the longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

base;
sawing table;
parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel emphasis.

So, the parallel stop is the movable part of the machine, which is the guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop, because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw curve may jam.

In addition, the rip fence of a circular saw must be of a fairly rigid construction, as the worker is exerting force by pressing the workpiece against the fence, and if the fence is allowed to move, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops, depending on the methods of its attachment to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point attachment (front and back)	Advantages:· Pretty rigid construction · Allows you to place the stop in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· For fastening, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine around and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and is a significant drawback with frequent readjustment.
Single point attachment (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid construction than when fixing the fence in two points · Allows you to place the fence in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive in order to provide the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of the circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw: Complexity of the design, Loosening of the circular table structure, Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, Quite a complex design for self-manufacturing, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a design of a parallel stop for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

Circular saw or can be used.
Screwdriver.
Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process, you will also need the following materials:

Plywood.
Massive pine.
Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

The base of the transverse part;

Longitudinal part

The base of the longitudinal part;

clamp

Cam handle

Making a circular

Preparation of blanks

A couple of things to note:

planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

At 22 mm, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this with drilling, but you can just fill it with a nail.

In the circular saw used for work, a home-made movable carriage is used from (or as an option, you can make a false table “in haste”), which is not very a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the hat.

As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece, which must be processed with a belt or eccentric grinder.

We make the handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Cross section of the guide

We proceed to the manufacture of the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

The base of the transverse part;
Upper transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
Lower transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
End (fixing) bar of the transverse part.

Upper cross clamp

Both clamping bars - upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when sawing blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar is used to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the move and remove all defects that prevent smooth sliding, in addition, it is necessary to check the tightness of the inclined edges; gaps and cracks should not be.

With a snug fit, the strength of the connection (fixing the guide) will be maximum.

Assembly of the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, it remains only to ennoble the edges. This is done with edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Guide rail installation

It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the bar of the transverse stop to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.

Video

The video on which this material was made.